rudypoochris

That is going to be bone jarring i would think at 450lb/in ! we will see, try it.

It is called Gtech..... gets everything but the wind, which is a big deal at high speed, but if you were itno it enough im sure you could write an equation to fix that.

I know i am going to have a problem with this because i am so used to the explorer where i pull it right up onto or 1-2" from the parking stops, the front wheel that is. Uh-0, great idea though, but i think it would be less expensive to just be a bit more mindful. Would the sensors really alert you in time that you are going to hit? I think you must already be thinking about it to turn the switch on, thus negating the purpose of the entire system.... Unless you are anal like me and must have your 1-2 inches from the stop

How are you going to get the cap to adhere to the aluminum? Bolts? Adhesive (i think this would fail unless you know of an adhesive i don't).

I was looking under the explorer today and i knew that the tranny used a hydraulic clutch, i just never thought of it in terms of my 302 HO swap into the datsun. Is it possible to use this: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=SC37897&parttype=236&ptset=A slave cylinder/hydraulic T/O in my 240z? I will be using a 94 mustang 302 with a mustang t-5. Probably wont work but if it does there is a nice cheap ($85) hydraulic t/0. Blueovalz can you chime in

Does the diff/tranny whine seem really abnoxious to anyone else besides me in the second video. I was just trying to listen to the motor, and i can hear it but the noise is really PIERCING.

Alot of those bumps i think the car should of gone off... Even on non bumps it should of, some of this hills at that speed would have the car flying imho. Maybe it has to do with the tires which aren't real and all like jt said. Wonder what an escudo would do.......

Ive seen a buncha r200 3.7 LSDs go for near the $800 range after shipping, on ebay. I don't think a 3.36 is worth THAT much. Also 3.54's are everywhere and the difference isn't very much for acceleration, noticeable for top speeds of course. Also they do sell a 4 pinion (i think it is four any way) LSD for the r180 that should get you a good deal of strength with the readily available 3.36's and for about the same as the 3.7LSD cept it is the ratio you want and it is LSD. Good luck to you though, it is worth whatever whomever will pay for it.

both struts as far as I know, atleast that is what everyone has been refering to them as.

Thanks! I am thinking of waiting for the rota grids if they ever come or I might go with the sportmax 050's with adapters in 17"X8". Any way thanks for the info

heh figured thats what you were trying to do.... it was too easy.

They had different displacements.... 2.4L, 2.6L, and 2.8L.... Some had more smog stuff and safety stuff then others (bumpers).... Heavier lighter etc.

SO what is the current best joint i can get, (for a reasonable price) spicer?

Not completely flat I hope.... That would allow the coilover to go anywhere as long as it is on the strut bottom and strut piston, but it could still wander up top. I think it is mroe common to have the outside seat recessed and the inside raised.

It is .5 inch spacer for 240z hubs

I searched for this but couldn't find it through all the other backspace posts. I read in another thread that the front backspace is more ample then the rear. Unfortunately I upgraded wheel lugs (to a longer length) and cannot put the front wheels on safetly until i have new wheels that use conical nuts instead fo the ones that run through the wheel (acorn?). Any way, I measured front backspace to be at minimum 5-1/8", any ideas on how much less, or more the rear will be, or is it the same. Thanks!

http://www.autornd.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=14_8857&products_id=163&osCsid=5c28c7280b14d9708184381e7260c974 Think aux uses Dana at this place. Correct me if I am wrong aux.

I drove a 1998 m3 I am not sure if this is the same one? It made 240 horse... It wasn't that fast, I was acctually unimpressed. That was the fastest car i have driven but it wasn't "fast" imho. I mean it was faster the my dads gs300 and alot faster then my 92 explorer, but it still didn't feel fast, and i launched it at 6.5k (don't worry it wasn't my car and the girl who got it from her rich dad crashed it 6 months later). The clutch slipped up a bit in 1st and the wheels didn't spin, probably because their idea of traction control is applying the brakes (i think this is how any way), but even in 2nd when traction would be sufficent for sure, i just didn't get a rush. Maybe it just didn't FEEL fast, the explorer feels fast because i can hear everything and feel everything, but i know it isn't. Hmm perplexed.

heh same, I am going to end up spending about $800 on mine for front and back including rotors. Granted it won't stop like wilwoods (i did vented toyota and 240sx rear discs) but it should still stop on a dime.

like ive said in every other ford engine post. Central coast mustang block for $1900 it is new and makes 300hp, thats not enough then $2300 for 340 and $3000 for 370. More then that hop onto the 351 design it has a beefier bottom end (and weighs about 80lbs more) then the 302's and will make plenty of power. But you have to ask yourself how much you want to make, 500 is about the max on the 302 before you need to do some super beefing, the 351 takes some more. Also, if you have a 7k budget, get a world products block or aftermarket block (from a good company) that is designed to take the beating. The world products one for instance features 4 bolt mains as well as other structural goodies. I would try to stick to the 302 though seeing as it has a good weight and decent power output plus, distributor is on the front (on almost if not all fords) so it can be mounted all the way back, better weight distribution.

Sell the orange z for a kpgc10, it will be worth so much more here in the US. Plus it seems you already have two z's...