ZT-R

oh yea sorry, i have a single throttle body. i was thinking about putting the check valve as close to the intake manifold as i can so it would store some in the hose too. i dunno if that matters or not though. guess i need to wikipedia brake boosters

Hey guys, RB26 with a intake manifold. i have a 6an line tapped. can i run that stright to my booster with the oem 240z check valve? or do i need to build a vacuum canister? i have disk brakes in the rear and will be running azc 12.2 front kit at some point with the 81 280zx 15/16th master. (btw isnt this the same as the 280z master, my 280z says 15/16 on it...)

do you have any pics of it on the 280z?

im running the adjustable tokico bz3125 in the front. and i dont know what the rear shocks are but the are the 5 way tokicos

i have an aem ems s2, so far i am happy with it. i am by no means a tuner but it seems do have all the bells and whistles i could ask for. not familiar with the haltechs.

errr dont wanna get them from nissan

roughly 2" or so. Really the overall length of the tube is the important part because that is how the gland nut tighens down on the strut. cut it a big on the long side and just through a washer under it and your golden if you miss judge the cut, but mine were fine. pretty much follow johnc's writeup in the FAQ. you can get a cheap chopsaw at harbor freight... you get what you pay for but if you dont have a need for a good one it will still do the job.

ok, broke out the lathe on the suspension and i am glad i did, turned out great. more pics to come. these are the lower perches that come with the ground control coilovers.... they made me laugh and reminded me of my hondas weaponR suspension... so giving the middle finger to that i made these. hammer tight tolerances turned out perfect i must say then i modified the top hats to fit inside the bearing like the oem perch... got it lowered on the ground today and can push down own it my my scrawny self and one of my guys says "now thats a suspension" ahah love it..

throw a gusset on that thing, probably overkill but cant hurt im still messing with my angles, i need to learn new curse words cause nothing seems to be working.

btw get some bad dog frame rails and weld them on if your upgrading the motor.

i just did my suspension, sectioned the front struts, dude if i can do it anyone can. if you have a chopsaw there is no reason you cant. i used a big pipe cutter (like a tube cutter) and that was a pain in the ass, it wanting to walk up the pipe but i think a chopsaw would be easiser. then i used 2 pieces of 1.5" (maybe 2 but i think 1.5) angle aluminum and clamped the tube inside those and tacked it.... worked great. i do have a tig and a mig so i used thte tig to weld up up but you can grind down a mig...

im somewhat interested in upgrading my turbos too. I want to get it on the road as i have it now on the stock ones and see what happens, but i am thinking something more like the N1 spec turbos or something kinda to the small side. also questioning a small single to simplify the engine bay, but i dont know at this point. will the stock injectors feed 12psi on the stock turbos? 440cc

how many shims did you use? i have probably 3/8" or so on the drivers side. i currently am using 4.0 degrees down on the trans, 4.0 up on the diff, but still vibates like hell. (on the lift, no cv shafts, no wheels)

updates dave

+1

well i got the angles on the flanges right (equal degrees) but i have to move the diff down. i am going to have to redrill the t3 mustache bar i think, if it will work at all with the mckinney mounts. i have shimmed the bar down to the max(out of threads on the mustache mounting bolts), what a pain in the ass this has been.

its on the first page of my build thread. R230 install

yea i was thinking about using a friends but i dont want my driveshaft angles stored in that "secret file" that gets uploaded. hahah

my the angle is 3down and 3degrees up for the rear. but the driveshaft is pretty much level. i got a digial angle finder coming, hopefully be here friday. then i can get some consistency.

oem perch O.D. diameter= 1.09" oem perch I.D diameter= 1" wall thickness would be .09" ground controlO.D= 1.249" ground control I.D=.891" wall thickness would be .358" if i mill down the aluminum it will work yeilding a .199 wall thickiness. i would think that would be enough. what do you guys think.

well the ground control tophats are a little bit different. they have the sloping top with a little nipple if you will, like the stock perch, but the diameter of the nipple is bigger than the stock perch. i was looking at it and i think i can put it in my lathe and turn it to match the oem bearing diameter, then i can cut the isolator thickness to whatever i need to or put a shim under (actually on top) of the bearing. if that all makes sense..

i did my 280z kinda like you did. took all day. then i did my 240z on my outside lift at work with my industrial sandblaster and my big tow behind compressor, done in about 10 mins with the big setup (has a 2inch charge hose). now i know how to do it dude if you ever do anything like that go to lowes and get a respirator. medical masks dont do crap for silica (sand) not to mention its illegal to use that in CA. but shhhhh i plan on using plastic media when i get into the body work.

hey guys, after reading 9000 pages of stuff i am giving up and posting. i have a 240z with ground control coilovers and tokico 3125 struts, sectioned. i am not using the camber plates. the top hat supplied (techno toy tuning at least) doesn't fit into the bearing. i was wondering what you guys are doing. i guess i could take the stock upper spring perch and modify it in some way, but i figured i would ask 1st.

the guy with the 2jz has some sort of t3 gearing in the r230 i think i read. i have to find that post again.