Search the Community
Showing results for 'megasquirt'.
-
Thank you. I have some experience with Megasquirt and have a unit in a box. I may look into that.
-
Hello HybridZ folks, I need some recommendations on my 1971 240Z Turbo on how to drive my Bosch Intercooler water pump with my MegaSquirt V3.57 ECU. This is the first time I have setup an Air-To-Water intercooler. What I really like about this setup is the cooling ability of the Intercooler and the very short intake track from the turbo to the manifold. My question for the forum is how to drive the pump as I don’t know how the OEMs do it. The Bosch pump (0392022002, flows 317 GPH, and pulls 3.2 amps) is used on Ford supercharged Mustang Cobras. I could use an On/Off setting or PWM configuration. It doesn’t make sense to leave the intercooler pump on all the time. Currently I just have a switch on the console to turn the pump on and off. Possible MegaSquirt configuration options to drive the Intercooler pump is (On/Off or PWM). Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output) to turn the pump On/Off at an air temp of 90 degrees. The MegaSquirt will provide a ground to the Intercooler Pump relay. 1. On/Off Control: Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output using Inj G) to turn an external relay on to turn the Intercooler Pump on with the MegaSquirt below. 2. PWM Control: Configure the Water Injection option for PWM (PumpOutput using Inj G and Valve Output Inj Bank 1). Pump Output controls the external relay on and Valve Output supplies PWM ground for the Intercooler Pump. Setting the Valve Speed to fast will pump to operate properly I hope. I found this setup on the MSEXTRA site from "Prof315" controlling a Water injection pump not an Intercooler pump. System Diagram Here are some pictures of my design that changed over several months. From a performance standpoint I let it heat soak until the intake air was 100 degrees and turned on the pump and it cooled the intake air to 55 degrees in 10 seconds. It seems to work very well and has a quite operation.
-
I am copying my project thread that I started on another site over here because this is really my home. It may seem kind of weird that it shows up all the sudden with twenty some posts. I started this car build on June 7th, 2007. At first I swapped an LS1, but it ended up having a cracked block. All of that is documented here: NOTE: if pictures are missing or have watermark, then go look at the build thread on norotors please at this link: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=5271.0 Photobucket screwed me and many other people by allowing free pic hosting and then changing over to subscription after several years. I put all my pics on norotors and fixed the build thread over there. The LS1 megasquirt write up is at this link, I had too many copies floating around. http://http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56981-ls1-megasquirt-install/ _______________________________________________ I have been on hybridz for a while and seeing Scottie leave to build his RX7 got me thinking this direction. I picked up the car about a month ago and have been researching on this site. Thanks to Silicone_Boy I picked up the LS1 last weekend. I went ahead and ordered the kit from Grannys. Grant said all the parts are in stock so I am expecting the kit by the end of the week. I am going to put a 700r4 behind it to get started because I have one already and the aluminum driveshaft to go with it(from 89 firebird). Unless its extra pricey to get the aluminum driveshaft shortened. I checked with the local shop and they will shorten but I didn't talk about price yet. Here are a couple pics from the weekend:
-
I have an 80’ 280zx with a 82 turbo engine in it, I installed Godzillaraceworks prebuilt single coil megasquirt system. So far it’s given me a lot of issues. I finally managed to get it started but it runs rough at low RPMs (below 2500) and doesn’t idle. My AFR guage reads that it is running super lean, like 18+ I manually lowered the afr table but still nothing Also when I turn the key to off position it doesn’t turn off the car, nothing changes when I switch between off and run on the ignition switch, but as soon as I disconnect the ECU ignition wire from the cars ignition wire everything works normally. also the temp gauge isn’t working on the dash anymore if anyone can help with my issues I would greatly appreciate it
-
SOLD!!!! Selling my ECU! This has successfully run 2 versions of my L28 (one with ITB's) and a LS V8. Megasquirts are known for being very powerful for the price and have a huge community behind them. Lots of details, here's a link to the data sheets: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-iii-ems-system-with-ms3x-expansion-v3-57-assembled/ New is $700, I'm asking $500 shipped. Sold!!!!
-
I decided to make a new post, as my new issues do not relate to my other topic. 78 280z turbo conversion, 82 dizzy. I have spark. Set the engine to tdc when dizzy was installed, and turned it back to ~55 BTDC. When cranking, timing shows at 10 with timing gun. Car will sputter and wants to start on ether. I think either my timing is wrong, or my fuel settings aren't any good. The timing talk of posts about megasquirt are all confusing. I've read conflicting information about setting the car the TDC, turning it ~55 BTDC, and also setting it at 20 BTDC. Not sure what I'm supposed to do. Trigger angle has been set to 90 degrees, not 65 like the msq says. If you guys could check out my msq and let me know where I'm being an idiot now, I would greatly appreciate it. DG280zTune.msq
-
Hi Guys, I posted at MSEFI about a week ago regarding this problem and haven't gotten anything back yet. Hopefully someone here might have a hunch as to whats going on. Heres the original post with the additional troubleshooting we tried. I'm having some major voltage spike and sag issues with MSII V3.0. I originally thought the issue was my tune until I started data logging. Upon closer inspection when the voltage spikes the car leans out immediately after, when the voltage sags the car goes rich. You feel the car shutter for a brief moment as well when this happens. This happens during all driving conditions as well as when im crusing at a steady rpm with constant light throttle. I was wondering if anyone has had any similar issues or if theres something else I can try for a fix then what I've tried below. For info on my car its a 1982 280zx Datsun and for Megasquirt im running MSII V3.0 with a relay board that a friend and I put together. also I'm running EDIS with a dodge caravan coil pack. The alternator is a 105 amp alt that was purchased online as well. (I think zman of washington?) I am also running version 2.889 of the firmware on Megasquirt. (we just upgraded from 2.6 last week to see if that helped) The battery has been mounted in the trunk of my car and I've got a thick (2-4 gauge) power wire running from the battery to the starter. The ground wire (2-4 gauge) for the battery is grounded to the trunk of the car. To try and remedy the problem of the voltage sags and spikes we re wired the relay board's power and ground wires with 12 gauge wire. The relay board now pulls power directly from the starter where the battery and alternator connect. The relay board also has one 12 gauge ground now that grounds on the starter where there is a thick (4-6 gauge) factory wire that grounds to the frame. The switched power (16-18 gauge) wire from the factory ecu is still in place. After re wiring the issue doesn't seem to have improved at all unfortunately. We then connected a wire directly from the alternator to the starter with an 80 amp fuse and bypassed the fusible link. This also unfortunately didn't seem to make a difference. After we did that we ran a power wire and ground all the way back to the battery in the trunk and still got the same voltage sags and spikes. Then the last thing we tried was pulling the fuse from the alternator to the starter all together and we still got voltage spikes and sags. So we're really not too sure what to try next. Here's whats floating around in my head for possible scenarios... Could something be acting up on my megasquirt or relay board that would be causing this? We double checked and made sure the power,ground and switched 12 connections are nice and tight on the relay board and that nothing is loose. If something on the board could be causing the issue where might I start looking? I have a large capacitor for a car stereo and was thinking of running that inline with the 12 volt wire to see if it'll smooth anything out. Could the EDIS coilpack be injecting some voltage into MS? I've included some screen shots of the voltage sags and spikes. You'll notice my AFR's follow the trend of the voltage spikes and sags when throttle is constant as is RPM. (im running an AEM wideband sensor as well). The pulse width not shown here echo's the AFR's and I can get screen shots of that if it helps at all. Thanks!
-
Den, I agree with you that the ProtunerZ guys are very helpful, and stand behand their products. I am so glad that the car doesn't whistle anymore. I am no expert here, so take this as advice. Your mileage my vary. 🙂 The car is a 71 240z. I live at 8,000 feet and I see a lot of altitude change to 5,600 feet in CO, so I am running %Baro. Here is the setup on my engine: 3L Turbo Stroker, 88mm JE forged pistons 8.43:1, Max Speed rods, ARP head, rod, main bolts, Electramotive L7 Cam, Garret GTX Gen II 3071 turbo, Water-to-Air Intercooler, ProtunerZ intake, turbo manifold, downpipe, Arizona Z Car 7 QT oil pan. Megasquirt V 3.57 with the expansion daughter board, sequential injection, 280zx Turbo CAS, GM Truck COP, Bosch 440CC injectors with 43 Psi. This is a new engine that has about 2,000 miles on it. Its running very well over the stock turbo engine I had in the car. I did set up the throttle blade to be completely closed and then configured the IAC to provide additional air to get to the target of 750 rpm. This has allowed me to have it start in the cold at -10F and 90F and warm up properly. I do find it likes a AFR of 13.5 for a good smooth idle at 17 degrees of timing at 750RPM. I enclosed my MSQ tune file Looking over your setup I noticed a couple things you should check. I will make the assumption the engine is stock with no cam and stock cam timing. 1. SYNC LOSS: (This is not good. fix this first otherwise you're chasing your tail) Your RPM signal has noise on it and two dropouts where the rpm goes to zero in a four-minute period. You need to confirm your sending a clean signal to the ECU. This is not my area of expertise with a hall sensor and tooth wheel as I am running optical from the 280zx turbo CAS. Check your sensor gap and grounding and shield grounding. Others here have way more experience in this area. 2. The throttle position sensor: You have 464 steps where mine has 679 steps. I would make sure it has full travel and re-calibrate it. I also noticed that your sensors are unlocked. This could be the sensitive throttle you mentioned. 3. Timing: It can't hurt to double check your base timing. I would confirm it at (Fixed Timing setting set to 15 degrees) with a timing light. Make sure you confirm zero TDC with the piston at TDC. I have had a couple harmonic balancers spin on me. I am not sure how the missing tooth crank wheel bolts to the balancer, so I could be incorrect here. 4. TPS WOT Curve: You have it set to start a zero and it keeps firing off your acceleration enrichment at idle. Your AFR is going rich to 10.4 when that happens. Move the starting point rpm so it just starts to fire when you start to accelerate. Take a look at my tune for a starting point. You don't want to fire off acceleration when its idling. 5. MAP sensor: Looking at the one warm up idle log. The timing moves from 19 to 23 degrees with no TPS input. Then is settles down to 14.8 while the MAP remained fairly steady at 41 kPa. You would think this would change with the timing swings, so check your MAP hose to the MAP sensor and the MAP sensor wiring. I see you have a GM-1Bar sensor configured. On my engine I have a vacuum of 27 kPa. It could be normal for your engine but check for vacuum leaks also. Here is a great article from DIY Auto Tune on closed loop ldle. MS3Pro Closed Loop Idle - Stepper Valve - DIYAutoTune.com 6. I would adjust your timing at the lower values. Set it up so you have 500 = 19 and have 17 degrees at 750. this way it will give you a little timing when the electrical load increases to bring the RPM back up. Looking over the idle/accel tab I have more settings available and a 16x16 table to play with. I think this is the limitation on the Microsquirt vs the Megasquirt. Open loop vs. closed loop: I have had a stock 280 NA with factory injection and MSX fuel only to start with just the air bleed screw and bi metal IAC valve and it worked and idled fine. When I swapped to a stock turbo 280ZX engine with factory injection. I changed the IAC valve to a Ford 2 wire valve and used open loop then closed loop as I learned the system features. Both worked well but I could get more fuel control with closed loop. You have a lot more temperature swings and intake temps with a turbo engine under the hood that effects idle control. Now with the current stroker turbo engine and the PTZ 75mm throttle body. I spent a lot of time getting the GM 4 wire IAC to work correctly with the large throttle body. Any air leak or incorrect IAC travel setting turned into a higher idle. What I do like about closed loop with this current setup is how it can idle when it's cold or hot, electrical loads high or low, you have finer control over the idle. I also feed the gas tank vapor valve (240z 260z has this valve, I think. The 280z has a charcoal canaster) output and feed that in front of the throttle plate to burn the gas vapor off. When it's hot out the gas vapor would change the idle and AFR by two points. Having closed loop and AFR/EGO control corrects for that swing. Burning the gas vapor off from the tank. Do you need closed loop no, open loop can work just fine. If you want better idle control over different variables then closed loop can help with that, but it takes time to set it up from what I have found. The reason I went to Megasquirt or any modern ECU. I was tired of troubleshooting with a voltmeter and a closed system you could barely modify. Now I can tune at my computer and get real time data and logging to review your results. What a step forward, but it's been a long journey learning these features and how to apply them (incorrectly and correctly). I included my current tune and a data log. In the middle and end of the log you can see how it idles. Hope this helps. CurrentTune.msq 2025-05-21_16.32.19.mlg
-
I just finished the install in my s130 and am having trigger issues and “vvti err” message. Does anyone have trigger settings they are using that they’d share? Both in the trigger set up, and vvti menu?
-
L28et not rev'ing past 4800 (like a wall) I have searched and can't find anything. I'm sure there's info on it though. I have a 71 240Z l28et megasquirt hx35 water meth 1.4bar low boost high boost is 2bar runs and drives great but only wants to rev to 4800. I recently put this engine together about 18,000 miles ago and it used to pull hard way past 5K (5500-5800 is where it would normally start to fall off at but I could push it to 6-6200) only thing that has changed is I've gone to sea level adjusted the tune accordingly 24 degrees of ignition timing 10.8 -11.2 afr (only thing I've changed is fuel). I've been going easy on it because I was driving it across the country and don't have a garage to work on it and was the first time Ive turned down the Boost from 2bar. Normally I don't rev it that high unless I'm racing or driving it hard (on track) and haven't really gotten on it really hard since before I drove it across the country... what I think is happening is my cam timing is advanced... while driving it across the country one morning I got up to start it to let it warm up and it backfired through the intake and idled backwards for a couple of seconds (sounded horrible). Quickly turned off the ignition checked everything and went to start it and it started and drove fine. That was about 2800 miles ago. Full Boost @ 3800 feels like it should be at 4500 or even higher. In order for me to check ignition timing on the crank I would have to put a dial indicator in cylinder 1 because there's no key way in the underdrive pulley. it's only been dialed in when the engine was first assembled for the offset to megasquirt. this is what makes my dilemma a little harder to check cam timing. I can't just pop up off the valve cover and check crank to cam timing. I may need to just go buy a dial indicator take off the valve cover and go from there and start turning the engine over. Anyway anybody else have this happened there engine... engine rotates backwards and the timing chain jumps on the cam? Ideas.. thoughts . Thank you for your time ahead of time and please go easy on me.
-
Hi I have a custom vw efi build I'm doing and I'm planning on running a DIYAutoTune MegaSquirt MS3Pro Ultimate. Each bank of cylinders have there own throttle body, tps and ica Is it possible to run 2 tps sensor and 2 ica sensors on the DIY ms3 due to the split banks and cylinders? -
Good afternoon Hybridz Team. Does anyone know of a shop or guru that has experience tuning Megasquirt in Portland, OR? I’ve called some shops and they’re not interested in helping. Many thanks!
-
The Megasquirt wasn't wrong. It was working well enough, but it wasn't able to provide any higher level diagnostic functions, effectively run the IAC valve, run drive by wire, or integrate a comprehensive traction control strategy. My tuner was also moving away from tuning megasquirt, and as someone who relies on a tuner, I figured giving him want he needed to succeed was important. The Megasquirt is a powerful computer than can do a lot, but I was running into those limits. The Haltech also provides a lot more I/O functionality, which I was out of on the Megasquirt.
-
So I’ve been gathering info in adding megasquirt to my stock non turbo 1983 280zx. Hoping to get more horsepower. Many mixed answers on forums. I’ve left a message at Godzillaracing regarding megasquirt a week ago for some info. Without wanting to ADD a turbo route would megasquirt do the trick or should i …..clean/replace fuel injectors,check on fuel pressure-add a guage, retard timing a bit or? Car only has 30k orig miles. Was sitting for 15 yrs. Now on road for few years. Thanks
-
Just thought I would start another thread . This was supposed to be a L28/54 MN47 , but it ended up with a Rebello prepared N42 /MN47. The N42 was sent to Rebello and he prepped it for JE 89mm pistons . LD crankshaft offset ground with Eagle rods to get me 3.2 The MN47 head was ported by me - no flow bench , just seat of the pants cutting. Ports were only opened up to 35mm . Manely 44/35 swirl valves with bronze guides . The head is at 39cc . The cam is a 535 lift Bonk cam . It’s advertise 535 , but I could only get that with 0 lash , so it’s more like 520 lift . Engine management is a Megasquirt 3X with 270cc 14mm injectors running on a stock N42 intake with a 240sx 65mm TB . Exhaust is a MSA 6-2 header with dual exhaust to the back . BHJ damper , Kameari oil pump and chain tensioner . GM alternator 90 amps D-585 ignition coils with MSD wires . 4 row radiator with single electric fan cam sensor from 4.0 Jeep modified by me . flywheel 12lb steel that doubles for my CAS . Currently rev limiter is set at 7500 . Power drops off before then with current cam and induction .His build wouldn’t have happened except for the knowledge base on this site . Thanks for all that contributed their knowledge . Dyno session is schedule a month out . Currently using butt dyno and GPS speedo to do 0-60 times . It will also do quarter mile . Best time is 4.77 to 60 with some tire spin . Timing is 37 degrees max with a 13.0 set for WOT AFR. 7DE94C66-077D-4635-A801-2A09769EC638.MOV 8B4867CC-29D6-428F-A1D7-5F72482973E3.MP4
-
I have a 1983 Datsun 280zx N/A P79 head. I want to turbo this thing so I am looking to get into MS2. I have heard that you need a turbo dizzy and also that you don't need one if you aren't going to run sequential EFI or Coil on Plug IGN. Neither of which I plan to run do due to the fact that I want 300 hp. I don't have huge injectors and I don't see the worth of going sequential efi. this isn't going to be a drag car. Its gonna be a fun weekend warrior car that I can enjoy. I know the cr is a bit high and I'm also on the look for a 2mm head gasket. So my question is if I actually need to do anything to the distributor to run MS2 on regular batch fire and non COP ignition. I don't see this topic yet but If I find it then I will delete this post since the info is already out there. Thanks again for your help, and I look forward to the project.
-
Fast Floridian's 240Z Track Build
74_5.0L_Z replied to FastFloridian's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
The dyno chart for that was from my old 331 stroker: Stock Roller Block (4.030" bore) Eagle 3.25" stroker crank and rods Mahle 4.030 Pistons Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.571" lift) AFR 185 heads 1.75 Long Tube headers 30# injectors I scattered that engine at Daytona My new engine is a 347. Dart SHP Block (4.125 bore) Scat 3.25" stroke forged crank and H-Beam rods Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.625" lift) AFR 185 heads Long Tube headers 42# injectors I use Megasquirt MSPNP 2 to tune both engines. -
Alright well I'd rather do this here instead of the Member's Projects so I can get constructive comments and direction on my build. I can make a car domain page if I want clean documentation, which I probably will when I'm done. Here is a link to my member intro thread where I detail getting the car. Anywho, I just picked up my 1974 260z Sunday, complete with recently rebuilt L28 and carbs, and a bunch of other extras. The plan for now is to get it drivable ASAP, then work on the body and such on the go. For now I'll stick with the carb'd L28, but eventually I'll be doing a full megasquirt holset turbo build. All I got around to doing this weekend was cleaning up the clutch and flywheel from the oil that leaked all over the place while it was on end in storage. I also played around a little with the shifter. Something's not quite right there, even with a washer shimming it... List of things to do short term: - Source bolts and such to mate engine and tranny, and install on chassis. - Source whatever I need for the clutch system - throwout arm and bushing, m&s cylinders, etc. - Drop gas tank and clean it and fuel lines - Check, clean, and refresh brake system - Start cleaning up the carbs
-
Calz: Thanks for the Recommendation. I do have an Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) Sensor between the Intercooler output and the Throttle Body input that is connected to the Megasquirt ECU. Jeffer949: My current engine is a stock L28ET set at 10 Psi and 440CC injectors operating at 6500 feet. The big upgrade was the Garrett GTX3071R Gen II ball bearing Turbo and ProTunerZ Intake and Exhaust manifold. It was a nice upgrade from the stock setup with very minimal turbo lag. I don’t know the HP level, but it’s been very reliable and fun to drive. I am almost done building my Stroker Turbo engine with 88mm JRE forged pistons and MaxSpeed Rods. I was thinking of turning up the boost a little more, but not to crazy as I daily the car to work if the weather is good. Let me clarify my Intercooler testing. I heat soaked the Intercooler with several boosted passes over 30 seconds to heat it up to 100 degrees with the pump turned off. I then turned on the pump to see how fast it would bring the temperature down to see how efficient it was at removing the heat out of the air stream. This is where the temp went from 100 degrees to 55 degrees in 15 seconds. Now to be fair I did this testing last month when it was 50 degrees out. How well it performs when its hot at the autocross is yet to be determined. I will say before the Intercooler I would see very high temperature spikes under boost and I am not getting that now with the Intercooler filled with Antifreeze. I enclosed a datalog that shows the RPM, PSI Boost, and MAT. You can see how the Intercooler is working under boost. Since I am not seeing big heat spikes under normal driving that’s why I want to turn off the pump until its needed. I have several choices to turn on the pump in Megasquirt. 1. TPS % position 2. RPM 3. MAP (kPi) 4. MAT Temp I am thinking TPS could be a better choice vs. MAT Temp to turn on the pump. Data log: The RPM is 6085, MAT is 69.7 degrees, and Boost is 9.9 Psi in a 3rd gear pull. I agree with you about the Intercooler blocking the AC mount on the left side of the engine. Being the car is a 71 240z it doesn't have AC, but my thought is to use an original 240Z right side AC bracket and convert it to use a Sanden compressor. Here is the link to the Intercooler and Radiator I used for the build.😀 https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html https://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/air-to-water-radiator-p-1063.html
-
Finally a complete drop in plug and play High Quality Custom Megasquirt 1 , 2 or 3 harness with fuse and relay box. We take out the hard part all you have to do is pass it through firewall, connect the plugs, and 3 wires (12 v battery , 12 v switched and ground! ) Every install gets instructions and detailed pics sent to email or here on hbz.Megasquirt is a standalone fuel and ignition system that is robust, affordable and most importantly tunable! Get rid of those 30+yr old harness, broken efi plugs and that silly AFM ! Be able to tune, get better gas mileage , better driveability and most importantly POWER. Harness's are custom made for each individual setup and will take 1-2 weeks to complete. It includes all new plugs, fuses, relays , wires , loom and components. The harness is designed for ms2 compatible Nissan 280zx turbo 82 83 distributor OR 300zx/maxima/pathfinder Distributor I am also an authorized Megasquirt Dealer I could get any other system or product! HARNESS $ 750 Megasquirt 1, 2 or 3 L series drop in harness Harness + Relay/Fuse box will be $750 will include: - 6x EV1 sealed injectors plugs quick disconnect - 1x GM coolant temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x GM air temp sensor with amp sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Throttle Position sensor with sealed plug - 1x ms2 friendly Crank Angle Sensor with plug OR l28et distributor input ( you supply plug ) - Fuse Relay box: Labelled with fuses for fuel pump, coil, ecu, 2x injectors banks. With 2 spare connections for wideband / boost controller. - 16 ft power to fuel pump - Main Power to battery with fuse connectors, 8ft ground for relays, 8ft switched power for relays. (crimped and soldered) Harness is made from AMP METAL DB37 clamshell connector - You choose ECU placement or Fuse/Relay Box some people like fusebox next to battery and ECU inside passenger firewall. Or both near each other - All connection are crimped and soldered for optimum connection and longevity. - GXL wiring (heat and oil resistant) - Up to 12ft length at no extra charge - labelled every 3 inches - relay/fusebox can handle 6 relays and 6 fuses (typical install uses 2 relays which leaves you with 4 additional for headlight upgrade, fan etc. and 4 fuses and leaves you 2 spare) - fuse/relay box is detachable from harness that way you can pass it through on either end. - extra FIDLE, IAC 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B outputs included Additionally I can also setup a MS2 ECU to make this a complete turn key system! MS2 ecu $ 467 config $ 200 hardware+software configured (includes basetune which $100 goes to ChickenMan for his efforts) at the moment 260cc injectors /440cc/480cc also we will cover NA tunes. extras options available Wideband input,Fan control, Methanol Control, 4 cylinder harness, 8 cylinder harness, trigger wheels for CAS ecu panel mount custom length wires. Mega squirt hardware assembly. PM for extra options and more info. Iam also a authorized re seller of all Megasquirt products, 14point7 wideband/data logging systems and HDI boost controllers/intercoolers/gauges/clamps. If you need more info please look at this old thread or PM me .
-
Hi all, hoping for some clarification on a couple items regarding upgrading from fuel only to fuel & spark (apologies if they seem to be basic/simple questions) Currently I am using MS2 V3.0 with NA Distributor and coil negative tach input. I have installed a turbo distributor with the DIY Optical Trigger Wheel and am following the instructions DIY has online: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/technical-articles/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/technical-articles/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/ I am making all the necessary changes in the ECU as per the Trigger Wheel document (like cutting out some caps/resistors) as well will add the 1k resistor to S12 & TachSelect in the ECU versus under the hood or at the distributor harness pin 24 (I believe this would eliminate the need for the 1k resistor connecting 12v to the Pin 24 wire noted in the diagram) Currently I have the shielded wire from Pin 24 going to the coil negative. With the upgrade Pin 24 wire should move to the distributor as the MS Trigger and pin 36 wire needs to be added as the ignition trigger to the coil negative. My questions.. - should the Pin 24 wire remain as the heavy shielded wire? ...spidey sense tells me the negative coil wire should be shielded not the one to the distributor. If not, what gauge wire is recommended for Pin 36 to coil negative? - should the 12v feed to the distributor be on a separate fuse/circuit or can I tap off the coil positive for this (seems like that is the way the NA Distributor module gets its 12v feed). -finally the last sentence in Optical Wheel "Wiring" section says "The primary trigger always wires to pin 24 on the main board DB37. For MS2, the second trigger wires to pin 3 on the main board DB37, or pin 7 on the DB15 if using the optional V3.57 DB15 input".....what the hell does this mean regarding pin3??? (that is a ground I believe) Thanks in advance to anyone helping me with this upgrade.
-
These are pullers and I will have them set up to come on with AC . Megasquirt 3X just came out with firmware to control with PW . I think the only option is fans at full speed with AC . I have a buddy that said he can make a controller that will do a better job . I have no idea what CFM these fans are except they are 300 watts and they are SPAL fans OEM
-
I'm in Florida and I use 2 smaller fans in puller config an a single larger fan in front of the condenser in pusher mode that comes on with the AC clutch. Sitting still you really need air passing through that condenser. I have the radiator fans controlled by my Megasquirt.
-
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
Zetsaz replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
My new speaker pods arrived, and I wired up my Spal fans and shroud from Galgo today! Need some more speaker wire that I'll pick up tomorrow. Fans work really well. Have them set to turn on at 185 and off at 175 in megasquirt.
-
Den, I took a look at the log this morning. I have a couple observations vs. recommendations this time looking at the idle sections only. 1. The TPS varies from 0 to .5 and I think this is causing other issues. Do you think the throttle plate is hitting the throttle screw stop every time or the butterfly is not closing correctly every time? Could it be electrical noise. Does the throttle cable has slack in it? At the start of the log its .02 at the end its .05 one time. Looking at my setup it only varies .01 at idle and has a very stable TPS reading. 2. At 16.833s the timing jumps 6 degrees because of the Idle adaptive advance timing is firing off. Why I am not sure. 3. At 26.433s the Accel enrichment is firing off with a PW spike of 15.5 and then a Timing advancement, but I could NOT see why in the accel enrichment table. Now the timing advancement could be cause by the spike in fuel and then the dip in RPMs. I think this issue need looked into. This should not fire off at idle. 4. At 93.905s the Accel enrichment is firing off with a PW spike of 14.5 and then a Timing advancement, but I could NOT see why in the accel enrichment table. Now the timing advancement could be cause by the spike in fuel and then the dip in RPMs. Again, I think this issue need looked into. The idle controls are different on the Microsquirt vs. the Megasquirt so I don't understand all the settings, but I hope what I found gives you and area to look at.
.jpg.003173676b75c47b3dfa25a2f751fe84.jpg)
.jpg.618f64e446109153aeb9141ff9e86078.jpg)
.jpg.51e6bd62ddb10213528d59f0120202c9.jpg)
