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Showing results for tags 'Body'.
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Hey guys I recently bought a Honda Civic 2006 the car is an alright car for what I paid but iv run into a bit of rust in the boot of the car where the spare sits... it looks like water has been down there for ages and I’m wondering what the best thing would be to do to fix it.. I attacked it with a metal wire brush but it seems to be too deep and don’t want to risk putting holes in it. What’s the best option for fixing it here? I’m open to rust converter, bondo ect I’m just wondering what would be the best way to go about it. Thanks in advance
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I am in the middle of some bodywork, but before I can re-assemble my '75 280z I need to replace the foam pieces that brace the front fenders and outer door panels. Mine had all either dissolved or were torn when the panels were removed. Does anyone know the factory thickness of the foam so I can find a suitable replacement?
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Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
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Anybody out there have this piece or a parts car they are willing to hack up? I need the lower right corner of the bumper/rear valance area from just under the right taillight with a bit of the rear right quarter panel. My car is a '73 but anything '70-'78 would probably work just fine. See pics for damaged area and what I would like to replace. I'm located in central California near Fresno. Hit me up with a price + shipping. Thanks and happy Z-ing.
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Hey guys, I am putting together my S30 and am looking for a: BRE style Spoiler Thin front Fiberglass Bumper Please let me know what you guys have. Thanks in advance.
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Hey guys, I have my 240z stripped all the way down and working on fixing some body issues before rebuild. I have replaced the roof skin as I had an aftermarket sunroof and wanted a slicktop. I'm wondering if I need to replace the entire section of the rear bumper/valance that goes all the way up to the hatch or just cut and patch the damaged portion. I don't have any experience with body work so not sure what the best approach would be. There is a very small ripple in the floor of the hatch and the very end of the frame rail has a little wow in it. Also looks like the right taillight frame is slightly bent. See pics. Thanks in advance! Cheers!
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Im looking for both p&d side fenders for my 78 280z. Metal. thank you
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I have a 72 240Z with 6 liter LS2 and T56 6 speed. After the engine/trans install (by Dave - (Viperredls1z), we did a 4 wheel Willwood disc brake setup from Arizona Z Car and while I was doing that, I opted for the package with 5 x 4.5" lugs which gave me the option for larger tires and wheels. I got a set of wheels (11x17 rear and 9x17 front) and mounted Michelin 335/35-17 rears and 275/40-17 fronts. The car originally had hand built flares, but they were poorly done and in any case did not cover the larger tires. This gave me the perfect opportunity to do some paint and bodywork that I have been putting off. The car is in Ralph Garza's Body shop in Roseburg, Oregon for complete body work and paint. Check my facebook page: Datsun V8Z. The old paint is almost all gone,body panels are being aligned and this weekend they started on the flares. I made templates out of 1/2 inch plywood that would be the outside opening of the flares. The template radius is 1 1/2 inches larger than the tire radius. I located the center of the template 1" above the center of the wheels/tires, allowing for a bit more suspension travel. This weekend, Ralph and his buddy John from Portland (who has done SEMA class winners) started mocking up the flares. They are using rigid styrofoam blocks and spray foam to construct a workable surface, then filing and sanding down to a final shape. Hopefully this will be done this weekend, and the fiberglassing can begin. The side marker lights go away, and I'm adding turn signals behind the front grill (yet to be fabricated). No front bumper. Thin black fiberglass bumper? in the rear. It will be painted with many layers of Kandy Tangerine over gold metalflake with a black stripe down the center. This is my preferred daily driver, so we are adding some comfort touches: Lots of sound insulation, Honda S2000 power mirrors, leather reupholstery on the existing 350Z power/heated seats. Also adding a small overhead console for rear-view camera. I've attached a photo of the car before bodywork and a few pictures of it as it sits in the shop. I'll try to post every few days to keep everyone updated.
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Hello, Everyone! Does anyone know about a 240z chassis for shipping to the UK? I live in Buckinghamshire, England and REALLY need a new chassis. It doesn't need to have anything on it I'm just looking for a rust free...a relatively rust free chassis that wouldn't take too much work to get back to a solid body again. I hear that in Arizona the body's are really well kept from the dry atmosphere? Well, if your in Arizona (or anywhere else) and you have a 240z chassis that you don't mind shipping, message me I guess? Email: armstrong.stuart@live.co.uk Any help on getting a new shell would be VERY much appreciated. I only drove my Z for 15 minutes. She was so far gone the chassis was twisting so I wasn't able save her :'-( THANKS! Stuart
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So I'm now in the bodywork phase of my project trying to smooth out the dents and dings, I'm going with a flat green after I primer it. I'm kinda doing everything backwards mechanically. I've decided to refinish all the suspension and underbody hardware after I get some paint on her. Its been a hell of a road with this car, house buying put me way behind on this whole deal. I love this car! Oh and the pic, I got a notion to just up and do it last night at like 1am. I brought out the flash gun and my camera. Anyway back to the bondo party outside.
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Hello everyone, I bought my Z in 2007 in New Mexico for 600 bucks with what appeared to be not much rust ( and it still is a fairly rust free car). It ran when I put a little fuel in the lines and I did a bit of work to drive it back to houston. Got it back to town and funds dried up after I couldn't get it to pass the state safety inspection. Fast forward to now and things and great I got most of the parts on the surface that I thought I would need. Today the brakes were bled, the back were easy but when I got to the front the front brakes wouldn't bleed. The brakes now have pressure, they didn't have pressure till I bled the back brakes and this was one of the reasons why it didn't pass inspection on top of the wind shield wipers not working. Any hints or tips I was thinking of running air through the lines to clear a possible blockage. Tomorrow I am doing a radiator flush, and sunday I am doing the popular windshield wiper motor replacement with a acura integra motor. Mondays plan is to start her up and get her to pass inspection( then it will be body work and interior ) The brakes were also stuck when I tried to move the car, a little work with a rubber hammer soon had them free, pictures will be up as soon as I can find the folder I put them in. Please people enjoy the thread as I refresh my 240z