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Showing results for tags 'LED'.
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Introducing our first product to hit the market is our 1971-1978 LED Emblem turn signal kit. Each kit is hand made at our shop in Las Vegas, NV. Our kit is a plug n play harness kit that integrates LED turn signals into the pillar emblem. Installation is easy and we even have a tutorial video posted to our YouTube channel. To order you can visit our website https://harmonresto.com/ or send a DM to our Instagram page! https://www.instagram.com/harmonresto/
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I want to swap in some H4 lights and add LED bulbs. I see many types and cooling device configurations of led bulbs available, has anyone tried them? What mods were necessary? Results? IF YOU CAN PLEASE, mention the brand /type bulb you used. Thanks in advance!
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Working on my '77 280Z, and had planned to replace all the old bulbs with LEDs from superbrightleds.com. Last week I replaced the brake lights, reverse lights, and front side indicators (whatever those ones on the side are called) with LEDs and everything worked great, new ones were clearly brighter, etc. Although right around that time the headlights stopped coming on, which I didn't pay attention to at the time (but in hindsight this should have been a warning maybe?) Today I went to start on the turn signals. I replaced the front driver side bulb with an LED and it came on just fine, again noticeably brighter than the old one on the other side, great! (The dash is out of the car right now so I can't test turn signal flashing yet, I have the load resistors but haven't spliced them in yet). Then I replaced the passenger side one, and no lights would turn on. So I put the original incandescent bulb back in the passenger side, still no lights come on. Then I put all the original incandescent bulbs back in, removing all LEDs from the car. Still no lights come on. I did nothing else on the car between the install of the first and second front signal LEDs, it was maybe 10 minutes. Multimeter still gives 12.28 volts across the battery, and the head unit/speakers work so it's not a complete electrical failure but something to do with the lights. I checked ground connections (in particular the two at the front of the car right next to the horns, which I tried wiring directly to the battery negative via some alligator clips) but they are all fine as far as I can tell. I don't know what steps to take next. I have the full wiring diagram for the vehicle (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf) but I don't know where to go now, any ideas? -
I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks
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Hybrids is a great Forum and the members have shared a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience. So I'd like give back a little and hope it might be useful to someone else! I just completed converting all the lights in my 260z to LED's. The subject has been covered pretty throughly in many other post, so I won't rehash what has already been shared (thanks to those of you who posted on the subject I found it very helpful). One issue that seems to be a problem is the glove compartment light, because the positive voltage is on the outside and negative is on the center post. LED's are particular about their voltage and the standard bulb won't work. But there is a simple solution without having to rewire your car. You can buy on Amazon (I'm sure there are many sources) an LED that is about 2" X 2" and it has an adaptor for different types of sockets. When you connect the adaptor simple reverse the plug and the problem of the reverse bias voltage is is fixed! The LED has a nice piece of 3m double sticky tape and mounts out of sight to the top of the glove compartment and is completely out of sight and does a great job lighting the glove compartment. I've included a couple of pictures. I hope someone fines this helpful
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