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Showing results for tags 'intercooler'.
Found 11 results
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Hi everyone, I am working on a new project. I have created a way to install a belt driven screw type supercharger and intercooler onto a L28 engine while using a off the shelf exhaust header. I searched this forum but found nothing about doing this the way I have come up with. It involves building a custom intake manifold and intercooler but it should work just fine. I have some tech help from some friends and I have the design done. I just need to get the intake manifold completed. That’s my biggest concern so if it physically fits I’ll move forward with the fuel injection, ignition, etc. Have any of you ever done this before? Any success? I looked at turbos but it seems that whenever someone mentions forced induction they automatically go right to a turbocharger. I’ve always done things a little differently and want something unique so I’m doing things my way. I’ll try to post progress here, including any photos I take, but I’m a busy guy so it may take me some time. Thanks Greg -
Hello I'm new to the forum, My friend and I just finished getting my 83 turbo up and running. In my search for an intercooler I found this kit from Godzilla Raceworks. I talked with them and they said it was an ebay intercooler they have had good luck with. I am checking to see if anyone has any experience with this setup. I was originally going to go with a treadstone intercooler and do my own piping, but for 550 if its a quality intercooler thats a good deal. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/turbo/front-mount-intercooler-kits-for-1970-1983-datsun-z-cars Build goals are 350hp, running MS setup from SofttopZ love the setup very quality. Thank you for helping the newbie!!!
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I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
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Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there are other issues (I think not all the injectors work well amongst other things). I’m also new to the turbo thing, only having had stock NA engines before. The issue that brings me here today is that I am embarking on a cold air intake build (I plan on building a scoop that goes under the rad and maybe back up in front of it (no more room to go through the rad supports as the weird intercooler has both in and out on the same side, that side), with the filter in an isolated box between the rad and the engine. See upcoming post with air pressure and temperature tests...) and also am looking into isolating my intake piping (see other posts on that, with data too). I don’t want to build things that are useless, so I started taking data before so I can compare before and after. I’ve been measuring and comparing temperatures under various situations and came to the realisation that I might have a problem (not sure, thus the post). If I cruise on the highway at steady speed (say 75mph), I get steady temperature: today at ambient 82 degrees, I got 90 degrees at the air filter, and 120-130 degrees at the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor (I don’t actually know where the guy put that sensor. Any clues?). I’m not certain how good this is, but it does not seems too too bad (still not happy that I’m gaining 65-85 degrees WITH an intercooler under very little load and high air flow. Opinions?). The potential problem occurs as soon as I lift of the gas. If I lift off a little, say to slow down to 60mph(without de-clutching), the temperature climb real quick to 155-175 degrees AIT, while everything else stays the same (air filter temp, RPMs, air flow…). If I completely let go of the gas (without declutching), the AIT skyrockets to 190-215 degrees. In both cases, the temps stay high for a while and only then decrease slowly (unless I give it gas, at which point they go back down quick enough I guess). If I let go of the gas but immediately de-clutch and stay in neutral, the temperature goes up to 150-165, but then comes back down on its own quick enough. I thinking the really high temperature I see when I don’t de-clutch might be a combination of A) slower moving air that gets to take the time to absorb more heat and B ) the fact that, because the engine is working still, there is a significant amount of exhaust that might make the turbo work and thus heat up the air. But how come the intercooler wouldn’t be making up for that? So, is that temp spike normal(ish)? Should I be worried? Any explanations?
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There seems to be quite a few posts about ducting the front air dam, but not many have an intercooler. I always saw pictures of a flat sheet going to the core support, and thus making it pretty easy to do. Since I have an oil cooler, and a pretty large intercooler, I knew this wasn't going to be a simple home depot run... After going back and forth, and not wanting to weld up new end tanks/intercooler piping I was left with the challenge of working around my intercooler. I had a few requirements of ensuring I fully blocked off air from escaping and going directly under the car, and ensuring all the intercooler saw air. I also wanted a small portion of the air to bypass the intercooler, to go straight into the radiator. I came up with the below... I started with a large 24x24 sheet from home depot, and really only ended up using 2/3rds of it. From the pictures below, you can see my main goal was to keep as much of the metal as I could, and fill in the rest with fiberglass. So what I really made was a skeleton shell out of the metal sheet. I followed the contour of the core support diagonals, and used cardboard to make the angles. Yes, I know there are drips, and such, but my intercooler almost rests on those areas so I let them be. All the areas which are visible, saw a small coat of bondo. This also ensured that this mated perfectly with my air dam. I let the pictures speak for themselves, and please feel free to reach out with questions. As far as holding this thing in place... You see a stud in the middle of the duct; this pretty much holds it firmly in place. Since I fiberglassed it on the car, it molded/contoured it self in place. I pretty much sat there alone. There were four holes on the core support, which I used plastic push clips to further hold it in place. You see that there are some holes drilled and empty for them. I am not done with the front end; it will be getting blocked off with a large sheet of ABS. This will further channel the air, but wanted to post small updates as they came. A rear diffusor with pics is also coming as well...
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Hello friends. I am stuck. I have my stock T3 turbo on my l28et on 12lbs of boost. I have water injection and I always use 91 gas. I'm about a month away from getting Megasquirt 2 installed in my car and tuning it, along with a new FPR, 440cc injectors, a Pallnet fuel rail, and a T3/T4 turbo. The last thing I want is engine detonation right before I get this thing in its final stages for tuning. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a sexy, functioning intercooler that can handle 300-400 hp and that can be installed front mounted in an S130, I'd really appreciate it. I'm looking to piece together my own kit here. If you know of a decent kit for under 400 that'd be great but if not, no worries. I've seen the CXRacing ones and I just can't drop 500 for an intercooler and piping. Gotta save for Megasquirt and the t3/t4. I'm only 16 and I'm working 40 hours a week to get this shit done. Thanks for your help guys.
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Getting the Z out of paint this week. Need to get rid of the stock J-pipe. Have become somewhat familiar with the various options for intercooler setup. I do not plan to run a ton of boost but also, refuse to have the j-pipe. Looking for full intercooler setup with piping, BOV, etc., if possible. Located in the North NJ area.
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Had an extra greddy intercooler of my s13 but it's to big to put into my 280z. What intercoolers do you guys run? Is there a way to do a stacked set up to fill the gap? possibly an extra support?
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Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T3-T4-T04E-Universal-Turbo-Charger-Kit-WASTEGATE-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-/390750137211 comes with t3/4 turbo, an intercooler, some piping, a waste gate, and some other goodies…. Im mainly interested in it because it seems to be decently comprehensive and cheap… on the other hand I'm skeptical of it for the same reason…. i know the intercooler will be crap but I'm probably only going to be running 10psi or so, so i don't need the best of the best but what do you guys think about the turbo and the other parts? and in general opinions of ebay things like this? -thanks -
Lately I've been brainstorming how I'd like to run my intercooler piping for my L28ET S30, and I've come up with (what I think to be) a unique and simple solution that should do everything that I'm trying to achieve. Firstly, let me state my goals: 1.) Keep all the piping on the left side of the radiator. This means both intercooler pipes and intake. I am running a Treadstone intercooler with same side inlet/outlet tanks. 2.) Allow the removal of piping in the engine bay, without having to touch anything in front of the rad support. Not really a big deal, but it would make servicing and pulling the engine easier. 3.) Maintain or increase the rigidity of the rad support. This is the big one, I do NOT want to simply cut larger holes in the rad support. I am looking for strength, simplicity and cleanliness here. Problems: I'm working with three different sizes throughout all my components. My intercooler has 2.5" outlets, my TB has a 3" inlet (manifold has been ported, before anyone tells me that it's a waste) and the turbo has a 2.5" outlet and a whopping 4" inlet (Holset HY series). In an ideal world, these values would be much closer together, but this is what I'm working with. I plan on using a reducer hose to immediately drop the 4" inlet to 3" and keep everything between the filter and turbo 3". The piping between the intercooler and turbo outlet is the only two parts that match, so these will obviously be 2.5" In between the TB and the intercooler I plan on using both 3" and 2.5" piping, joined by a reducer at the rad support. This may not be best, but I've already got the 3" portion being built, and it's going to be a work of art so it's staying! Whew! Now to my proposal! I would like to weld in steel joiners directly to the radiator support. My thinking is that this would avoid any loss of rigidity typical to cutting large holes and possibly increase it over stock. All I'm adding is one additional silicon connection per pipe with this set up, which shouldn't create any noticeable loss in flow. Here is a picture of a joiner, and two (admittedly poor, I'm away from any graphics software) hand drawn illustrations to demonstrate exactly what I'm getting at. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Are there problems with this sort of set up that I'm overlooking? Thanks for reading what has unintentionally turned into a rather long winded post! Discuss...
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Hello Folks. Does anybody have these FMIC from Simtec installed? Any reviews? http://simtecmotorsports.com/S30fmic.htm I am in the hunt and I've read alot using the NPR, Volvo 740, Starion etc. But the thing is, I don't have the tools to cut and bend the piping. These ones here are ready to install and fitted for the 280z with probably minor modification. And for the price they are descent. I could not find any reviews of this part here in the forum. I just got the l28et installed in the 280z and would like to upgrade with the FMIC. I will be replacing the clutch fan with electronic to fit these piping. Need some input from the experts. Thanks
