BluDestiny Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 So I'm looking lurking around on another forum, and I see a topic about running Rotella in a gasoline engine. Bunch of talk about how in high mileage engines it helps keep the clearance on worn bearings, it is made for engines that only rev up to 5k, drifters use it, people use it to break in their engines and the biggest one of all, it has more detergents and cleans the old gunk our of your block. blah blah blah. I tried searching to see any topics about diesel oil specifically, but couldn't find anything on hybridz. This is purely a question of interest for me. One of my friends recently did an SR swap on his 240sx and ran diesel in it for like 100 miles to "clean out the gunk" in his engine ( it had been in his car for like 6 months turning over by hand, but wasn't running). What is everyone's input on this school of thought? yes, no, maybe so? FYI I have never ran diesel oil, I broke in my engine with straight 30W and now run Valvoline VR1 20-50W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) Sure someone else that knows more about it should chime in, but yes... I am told by my machine shop guy that this type oil has zinc or something like that... a metal that the gov has made producers take out over time due to smog stuff... He says as long as you dont run cats it is great... It clogs cats and that is why it has been taken out over time.... He says that this is the reason there is all these break in oils now days.. every cam comp sell a bresk in additive and it is straight zinc "or I think thats it"... Just what i have been told.... Edited April 6, 2012 by gearheadstik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 It's all I run in anything older than the early '90's or so. Does it make a difference? Don't know, but I did lose 2 flat tappet cams in a SBC doing everything to the letter running normal oil, after that lots of people told me to run rotella. I built a roller cam engine after that so I can't say if it helped or not, but I doubt it hurts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Search ZDDP, it is the "Zinc" mentioned, the zinc fumes in burnt oil are murder on catalyst converters actual Catalyst material, reacting and changing them to non-catalysing material. SO... the modern oil specifications are very low or no ZDDP, the ZDDP protects extended metal-on-metal rubbing, bearings run on a film of oil, metal-oil-metal but cams run metal-metal as they are not enclosed between the camshaft and the rockers. Modern cars designed for zero-ZDDP oils use roller rockers. All you need to do is ditch the modern SAE grade SM oils and look for SL or older grade oils marketed for old cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Been running Chevron DELO 15W-40 for five years in my current turbo L28 with No problems. The guys at Delta Cams actually recommend it. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 They (oil companies) are lowering the zinc levels in the diesel oil because the newer diesels have cat convertors.The camshaft is really what needs the zinc.I have beenrunning valvoline 20-50 racing-supposed to still have zinc.Another critical application is motorcycle oil-the same oil runs through the motor and transmission gears.The main problem is that most of the oil on the rack now at you local autozone store really isnt designed for old nissan engines or engines that dont have rollar cam followers.If I was on road with my z and needed oil I would feel safer running 15-40 diesel oil or motorcycle oil than that 5w-30 watery stuff that is easier to get.If you had a completely custom machined engine with known clearences on all parts you could get more hp with a light weight synthetic oil .But my engine is a poor mans stroker build with pick&pull parts so it gets the 20-50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Been running Chevron DELO 15W-40 for five years in my current turbo L28 with No problems. The guys at Delta Cams actually recommend it. Me too. Ran my L28 on DELO for years after it was recommended by a race shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) In regards to the diesel grade oils not being "happY" with cat-converters, I think that is wrong. On both my porsches we've been running M1 TDT 5W40.The watercooled Porsche Boxers really like it better than the factory fill 0W40 originally spec'ed in them in 2001-2005. And those two cars do have cat converters. No issues with either. And I was advised to run this oil by Porsche shops, so that's why I think the issue with the zinc building up in cats is incorrect or not as great a concern as might have been reported elsewhere. I know Porsche wouldn't recommend something like this if the car is still under warranty. Mike Edited September 22, 2012 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 If you're burning enough oil to kill the cats, you are burning too much oil. Most of the Z cars that were made with catalytic convertors as original equipment were also built when oil had high levels of zinc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Both comments regarding burning oil miss the mark completely.It's the LATEST GENERATION of catalysts... What applied as recently as 6 years ago doesn't apply now. The catalysts in a 75Z only had to last 50K in CA, and 12/12 outside on a 49 stater (something like that.) The federal requirements now require 100,000 mile catalysts. The manufacturers are held liable. When we had stationary engines with 330 gallons in the sump, the FIRST THING we were required to do by Englehardt was to swap from Mobil Blackstar to Mobil Pegasus because it was a zero phosphorous oil. The ash WILL poison catalysts from normal engine operation. Think of how much oil you will pass through a catalyst in 100,000 miles, and with the zinc and phosphorous how quickly they would be poisoned. Zinc and Phosphorous were CHEAP additives for anti wear and anti acid formation. Same as Tetraethyl Lead in old gas. Think about it like this: unleaded gas runs your stock O2 sensor 60-100,000 miles easily.How long will it run on Leaded Racing Fuel? Sure, it will work or a WHILE. will it work for a warranty period of 100,000 miles? OEM's drove the requirement, due to the pernicious liability placed on them should vehicles start to fail compliance checks. It's hedging their bets. First went phosphorous, now Zinc. Randy's right... Edited September 23, 2012 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srgunz Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Go here. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ The forum will keep you busy for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I have a 1964 SBC 327 with a flat tappet cam. I run it at track events and time trials. On-Track temps are stable once they peak to 210 Water temp and 240 Oil temp in summer heat in NC. I have a 185 Water thermostat and 185 Oil thermostat, The Oil cooler fan kicks on at 165 so it runs pretty much all the time. If I drive it slowly during warm up in the paddock, or let it sit still and idle, it hits 185/185 and does not budge. high vol and high pressure pump, windage tray and crank scraper baffled pan oil cooler/w dedicated fan, oil thermostat Accusump with the EPC valve AN-10 hoses. I originally used Rotella 40W for the reasons mentioned. The Diesel oil tends to change viscosity more than synthetics under extremely high stress, like 30 minute track sessions at VIR. I would get very low oil pressure when it was HOT. I switched to full-synthetic and a break-in additive from GM and then from Lucas Oil that adds Zinc and Phosphorous ash to the synthetic oil. I have had great results from that combination. I have used various brands of oil with similar results. I even went 5W30 Synthetic and it holds the same pressure hot as the thicker viscosity, I have not tried lower than 5W30 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Motorcycle oils are also dropping their Zinc levels. For whatever oil you want to research, go to the manufacturer's web site and download the Tech sheet or the MSDS. Both should list the percent of Zinc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I also recommend reading Bobistheoilguy forum. Everything you ever wanted to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Why do people think running thicker oil which raises the oil pressure is a good idea? It's not the pressure that's important it's the flow - getting the oil to where it needs to be then getting rid of it and replacing it with new incoming oil. Grease will give you REALLY high oil pressure but I don't think it will do your engine much good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Tony, that's fine, but when you read "Don't use it because", I think "in general". I mean this is a site where any age of components is being used on hybridZs. It's fine to say that it's only the LATEST generation of catalysts, but my comments and comments of others were geared at "Not all" applications... Both comments regarding burning oil miss the mark completely.It's the LATEST GENERATION of catalysts... What applied as recently as 6 years ago doesn't apply now. The catalysts in a 75Z only had to last 50K in CA, and 12/12 outside on a 49 stater (something like that.) The federal requirements now require 100,000 mile catalysts. The manufacturers are held liable. When we had stationary engines with 330 gallons in the sump, the FIRST THING we were required to do by Englehardt was to swap from Mobil Blackstar to Mobil Pegasus because it was a zero phosphorous oil. The ash WILL poison catalysts from normal engine operation. Think of how much oil you will pass through a catalyst in 100,000 miles, and with the zinc and phosphorous how quickly they would be poisoned. Zinc and Phosphorous were CHEAP additives for anti wear and anti acid formation. Same as Tetraethyl Lead in old gas. Think about it like this: unleaded gas runs your stock O2 sensor 60-100,000 miles easily.How long will it run on Leaded Racing Fuel? Sure, it will work or a WHILE. will it work for a warranty period of 100,000 miles? OEM's drove the requirement, due to the pernicious liability placed on them should vehicles start to fail compliance checks. It's hedging their bets. First went phosphorous, now Zinc. Randy's right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Why do people think running thicker oil which raises the oil pressure is a good idea? It's not the pressure that's important it's the flow - getting the oil to where it needs to be then getting rid of it and replacing it with new incoming oil. Grease will give you REALLY high oil pressure but I don't think it will do your engine much good. +1 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82361-motor-oil-school/page__hl__zinc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) Sorry problems with my computer. Edited October 30, 2012 by AkRev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 I run Rotella 15-40w in my motorcycle(85 Honda Nighthawk 650). Also just recently put Rotellas synthetic(5-40 maybe? Cant remember) in my LS1. Got a friend with an STi that runs rotella as well. From what I hear its pretty good stuff, but I'm a pretty firm believer that changing oil regularly is much more important than what brand you run. I usually just buy whatever synthetic the parts stores have for a good deal or from the 5 quart jugs at walmart. Change it every 3k or less. When I worked at firestone a 5.3 suburban came in with over 300k on the clock and the lady asked for Rotella oil, we wen't to make sure and she said he grandpa or dad had always put that in it, and with over 300k on the clock, it can't be doing any harm. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) I run Rotella T in my Dodge Cummins and I've been running extended oil changes (6-7K between) and have 110K miles on the truck! No issues so far, and I don't expect to in the future. At 12 quarts per oil change, I don't mind running it a little further between changes. Mike Edited November 16, 2012 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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