Stroker Dyno Results

[Tony D]

"A stout 3.1 should see 250+rwhp."

 

I would go a bit further than that, but that's just me.

[motomanmike]

Good news is, it can only get better   I would focus on getting EMS on that car as many others have said.  Then try to ditch the distributor so you can control spark timing with a coil pack.  You'll probably see alot of power just getting the spark timing right with that stroke.

[TimZ]

Could you explain that cam timing bit? That is very interesting to me

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/46043-using-a-degree-wheel-to-degree-in-your-l-series-cam%E2%80%A6/

[NorwegianZED]

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/46043-using-a-degree-wheel-to-degree-in-your-l-series-cam…/

Thank you

[BLOZ UP]

[oops wrong tab.]

Edited April 30, 2013 by BLOZ UP

[Clashez]

Does any body know if a apexi super afc (air/fuel tuner) would be a good tuning device for are car with a set up like OP'S

[BluDestiny]

No because the Super afc can't make the ecu compensate that much and I don't think the afm signal would be the same. It runs on the principle of intercepting the Maf signal and changing that by a percentage and then sending that to the ecu so the ecu thinks it needs to use more gas to correct the "Maf" reading.

 

At least that's how it's supposed to be used on a 240sx. Regardless you can tune out much more power from a standalone instead of a piggy back. My friends 240sx was making about 240whp with his ka24det on a safcII and when he went to an haltech he bumped up 30ish hp, both the hp and tq curves were smoother and it just overall felt more responsive and sounded healthier (those last two are opinions from him).

[Mack]

Megasquirt.  done and done.  I took my stock harness and lopped off the ECU plug and just used the wires to re-pin to the megasquirt connector.  It took a day with a soldering iron and a wiring diagram.  I used the AFM wires for a turbo CAS "distributor" and then ran ign coil control for timing and dwell.  works great and looks almost stock.  

[ttodhunter]

I just installed a SDS engine management system on my stock 76 and wrote a thread about the install.  Maybe you will find it useful...

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110231-my-sds-install/

[AZGhost623]

Just an FYI - as someone who has a Datsun Parts Engine, the Stroker setup he sells goes for about 5-6k and of course all kinds of options to make the price go up. He doesn't do any of the build work, its all outsourced to some shop. My guess is "R Rated Motorsports". Unfortunately I have had problems and had to tear the head off. For whatever reason my CAM was retarded quite a bit, and there was other "oddities" as well that he says is part of his special mix of performance that has come with my discovery... So while I agree the STOCK EFI on this is definitely a major hold up, dont be surprised if there is some other odd ness in there that you might not know about. 

[twofouroh]

Yeah, I bought a P90A head from Datsun LLC awhile back advertised as 'professionally rebuilt' including the adjusters.  When I got it, the adjusters wouldn't pump up, so I took them apart and they had never even been opened at all by him.  They were all full of dirty crap that looked like blobs of Form A Gasket #2, and one of them even had a wimpy little spring some PO had put in it.  The valve seats were cut to very different depths, and I ended up making him send me a solid lifter conversion set for it.  WAY don't recommend him.  Very sketchy, very overpriced, and definitely NOT a 'pro' operation.

[Gollum]

Someone needs to get that intake off and check out the ports of the head AND the intake.

 

The stock EFI CAN NOT tune for those mofications. You're either running pig rich at cruise, or pig rich at WOT. A decent tune across the board with any mods like an aggressive cam just isn't possible.

 

And all that being said, the OEM EFI manifold will cause a severe choke past 5000-5500 which looks like EXACTLY what you're seeing. The OEM intake ports are roughly 53% the size of the stock valve!!!! No matter what, even with a stock head, that port is going to limit power.

 

Get a better intake on the sucker, and get megasquirt and I'd be willing to bet you'll see 40+ horsepower unleashed if not a helluva lot more, and that's if the build specs are only HALF accurate...

[Midnitz]

One of the very best companies out there in engine management is HALTECH. Look them up and you will

be suprised as to how affordable a stand alone system can be.

 

I would also opt for a MAF driven system as well as a coil-per-cylinder set up. But this will require that you install a crank trigger mechanism.

 

You may also need larger injectors to feed the larger demand for fuel. This will allow for you to develop some decent numbers provided the intake and cylinder head can flow to support the air the short block can move.

 

Engine design is about making sure that the parts compliment one another to achieve a horsepower and torque goal.

 

Cheers,

Roberto

Edited June 3, 2013 by Midnitz