RebekahsZ Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Looking for pointers and paint product recommendations for painting roll cage coming out of shop next week. To mask or not? Or hold a folder behind tube to block overspray? Durable paint recommendation? Needs to be available in rattle can. I have been thinking about using black brake caliper paint because it seems to bond and cover well without primer. I see a future of lots of scratches on the door bars as I drag my sorry butt thru that tight opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) If your only option is aeosol rattle can, I've found that the engine enamel paints, with a ceramic coating proved to be most durable. As far as spray paint goes, that is. Prime first, optional sand, paint with ceramic engine paint, That's yeilded the best results for me. No paint will resist impact chipping very well, but it certainly is scratch resistant. EDIT: I like the Duplicolor Engine enamel line. I've had the best luck with that over other paints. And definitely tape, unless your interior is stripped out. Overspray gets anywhere it can. It's quite amazing. Edited March 15, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I've heard good things about the Rustoleum Appliance enamel paint. Haven't tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Kind of surprising how powder-coating big parts has become popular. Takes a big oven. But they're out there. Done right, it's super-durable. Here's one - http://www.coyotecoating.com/ Rattle cans are solvent-based and low molecular weight by nature so it's hard to get durability. A two-part sprayed epoxy would be better. By the time you add up all of the $4-5 cans, it might be cost-effective. On rattle cans - Krylon and Hammerite are the only brands I've found that can be used, nozzles cleared, set on the shelf and re-used in the future. The others all clog the nozzle, no matter what. Just a consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Advanced auto has chassis and roll bar paint in a rattle can. I'm sure it's as durable as any rattle can stuff and they also have some epoxy in a spray can. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/vht-paint-roll-bar-chassis-gloss-black-11-oz-aerosol-sp670/99984858-p I painted the roll bar in my last car with it and it held up nicely. It was a convertible and it didn't fade. I didn't drag anything across it or have harness or anything wrapped around it to find out how tough it really was. At least with a spray can it would be easy to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Clean really well with wax and grease remover and do a mist coat for the first coat. Let it flash off some then do heavier coats. Let rattle can stuff cure a long time before hard use. I'm sure it will say something along those lines on the cans instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Thanks everybody. Thanks for the link, socorob. (Funny-my autocorrect wants so make you either "so iron" or "so prob" - take your pick!). They have that in stock. Future touch up is something that I'm sure will happen as I add brackets and things. Not terribly concerned about the gloss of it. I'm never sure about which paints need primer. I have always assumed that they all do ?? (Anyone?). Sounds like a no primer on the VHT stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks everybody. Thanks for the link, socorob. (Funny-my autocorrect wants so make you either "so iron" or "so prob" - take your pick!). They have that in stock. Future touch up is something that I'm sure will happen as I add brackets and things. Not terribly concerned about the gloss of it. I'm never sure about which paints need primer. I have always assumed that they all do ?? (Anyone?). Sounds like a no primer on the VHT stuff. Yeah, all liquid coatings like to have something to attach to. Bare metal isn't the greatest in terms of bond strength, when talking about adding paint only. Always prime if you wan't proper adhesion and relatively decent asethetic finish. This DOESN'T have to be a filler primer or a primer surfacer. Etch primer was designed for this purpose entirely. Introducing bare metals to liquid coatings. Lightly etch the area (does not go on like a build primer, it likes to go on "dry").... Then paint. I assume the VHT paint doesn't call for primer as it is for exhausts/super high heat, and finding a 1500 degree primer is basically impossible. Not to mention the paint is pretty much designed to fade and become less glossy as it dries/is heated. It kind of reminds me of anti fowling bottom paint (for boats). Edited March 16, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I painted my bar with the satin black. They had both in stock. I blasted it, cleaned it, rattle can etch primed it then the bar paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 I've heard of etch primer but have never purchased it. The concept sounds great. How does it "etch"-acid?? Where do I look for it on a middle-sized town? Parts store? Paint store? Lowes/Home Depot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Should I sand it before using etch primer? See prior post (hard to edit on cell phone). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Advanced auto here had everything I used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 When we did our Evo rally car we went all out and masked the whole car before priming and painting with an HVLP gun. The first time we primed the cage, the primer stayed tacky, it turned out Napa sold us the wrong reducer, so we spent hours wiping it all off with acetone. Once all redone, our semigloss paint ranged from full matt, to full glossy and runs everywhere. Aside from operator error, I attribute this to a lack of an air dryer, and a gun that was too big for spraying 1.75" tube. If I were to do it again, I'd just go with a rust inhibiting enamel paint. Muuuch cheaper, easier, less prep, equipment and knowledge required, and I'm positive I could do a better job. http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456362284/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9453583407/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/87466467@N04/9456385428/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Holy crap, that looks like work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) I know this isn't pertaining to Roll Cage, but similar and maybe it can help you. I refinished a few rims for my truck using a simple process: Sand down to metal - Etch primer - Primer - 3 to 4 coats of paint of your choice (I used VHT Gunmetal) - 3 to 4 coats of clear. Took me 4 days for 4 rims working on them a few hours at a time, in between other honey-do chores. Also the rims were gouged and scratched pretty deep from the previous owners failed attempt at offroading, which made up for the longer work time. There was a lot of cleaning each time and I took my time for each rim, but the results are after 3 years, potholes, new orleans streets, and 20k miles, they haven't faded or chipped. Hope this helps you. Also everything I found was at Autozone (cheaper online tho if you are patient). I can PM you my entire post I had on the other forum if you want. Edited March 18, 2014 by NgoZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 I sprayed mine with a gun and industrial paint. Didn't prime first and still get a lot of chips in it. But you don't need expensive paint since UV protection is not an issue. Painting a cage is the hardest thing I have ever painted. Impossible to keep the gun distance even, get 360 degree tube coverage, while paint is blowing back in your face. You will not want to do multiple coats. Plan on taking some time to do it. Powder coating is the way to go for pro results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I sprayed mine with a gun and industrial paint. Didn't prime first and still get a lot of chips in it. But you don't need expensive paint since UV protection is not an issue. Painting a cage is the hardest thing I have ever painted. Impossible to keep the gun distance even, get 360 degree tube coverage, while paint is blowing back in your face. You will not want to do multiple coats. Plan on taking some time to do it. Powder coating is the way to go for pro results. Doubt he'll have the car to a shell that can withstand 400 Degree temps, or I'd say go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Por-15 with a brush. or thin and spray. They may have it in a can by now. toughest paint I've used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Actually SunnyZ, I plan to paint it, close the windows and doors, fart and light a match. 😜 I just wanted to use that emoticon. Seems there is no consensus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litman Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Based on your initial post I would say stop wearing jeans with bedazzled rear pockets. If you go the rattle can paint route I would suggest the following: Sand with 180 or 220 grit paper. Paint likes mechanical grip Clean with PPG DX330 or a similar wax remover/de-greaser Spray SEM self etching primer (local auto paint shops or Eastwood) Hit it with 320 grit paper if you want it to be pretty Use pretty much any commercially available paint such as Rustoleum or Duplicolor. I prefer SEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.