Arizona ZCar Rear Suspension - Design, Function, Flaw(?)

[logr]

Changing the pivot point of the inner arm makes it illegal for SSM use. Don't know how important that is but it would cut down the customer base.

 

edit; I guess in this instance by using the original attachment point, it might be legal anyway.

Edited September 11, 2014 by logr

[Leon]

I wonder if this guy knows about the set screw - http://www.importtuner.com/features/1408_mti_racing_1971_datsun_240z/viewall.html

 

Might be important at speed.  Car specs. at the end of the article.

 

 

Can't replace the lost week's discussion (a shame), but still interesting to follow where the design is being used.

 

I think Matt did a lot of rework to the AZC stuff. He's on this forum and has an active thread for that car.

[NewZed]

He does seem to know what he's doing -  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.368925643220938.1073741825.296125467167623&type=3

 

Can't find a Hybridz thread.

 

Found it   Thanks.  Hard to keep up...  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99357-my-dream-ls7gtzproject-underway/page-30

 

If you open the thread and search within the topic for "arizona" (use the Hybridz search box) you get a pretty nice review from somebody that put the parts to the test.  He's using the short-nose diff mount also.  And he had the links to the bar pointed straight down.  Maximum leverage so the set screw, or whatever clamping mechanism, was critical.

 

Obviously these things have been discussed before (June 2012), but a review never hurts.

Edited September 10, 2014 by NewZed

[G-E]

Changing the pivot point of the inner arm makes it illegal for SSM use. Don't know how important that is but it would cut down the customer base.

 

The azc and silvermine kits relocate it the same way, using factory attachment points for their inner bar, but having offset the pivot points from there...  this doesn't seem to be a problem for uptake?

[NewZed]

Australia - http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=727  $2,750 aussie dollars >>> $2392 US

 

Edited October 12, 2014 by NewZed

[JMortensen]

Design Products racing does a better control arm which I believe is on the car toe adjustable and it costs thousands less.

 

http://dpracing.co/Z_Suspension1.html

Edited October 12, 2014 by JMortensen

[Savage42]

I went with the T3 arms, but also came across these a while back and saved the link.  Has anyone every used them or seen them on a Z?  http://www.hammondsplains.com/z/zworld/zraceproducts/

[Nelsonian]

^^^ I have those on car adjustable rear lower control arms from Zrace products, just sitting and waiting to be installed.

[boosted300]

To answer the original question...You have to put a set screw in the AZC rear LCA.  Maybe some setups will be less prone to movement, but mine has pretty tight clearances. At an autocross my outside rear wheel/tire was pushed into my inner fender due to movement of the suspension.  I tried to jack the car up and drop it quickly, but it wouldn't move back to the original loaded position.  I had to add a set screw. 

 

I discussed this with CobraMatt and he said he installed a set screw from day 1 to keep from having alignment issues.

 

Yes, I learned this the hard (and actually kinda scary) way. 

 

To try and accommodate the wheels I had purchased, I moved LCA's all the way inward and shortened my half-shafts, which were 280ZX tripod and sleeves.

 

 

Under the first heavy acceleration, the LCA rotated outward, and because the half shafts were shorter than stock, they pulled apart and came completely out of the sleeve.

 

 

 

The sensation was like hitting a slick patch of cement and the car got a little squirly....luckily I didn't lose control.

 

Afterwards, looking at the damage underneath, I was surprised at myself for not seeing how obvious the flaw was.  The plastic bushings are completely smooth, as are the tubes for the LCA...there's very little other than the torque pressure of the bolts keeping them from rotating.  If they were at least ribbed it would probably not be a problem. 

 

Long story short, I had some new, really nice half shafts made by the DriveShaftShop,

 

 

and put a setting bolt in the LCA's...problem solved.   (I actually planned to do a whole write up as this is the abridged version of what was an arduous process from beginning to end!)

 

 

 

 

[tube80z]

You need to put the bolts back in your struts where the e-brake bracket goes.  Some people have had this crack when it's left open.

 

Cary

[G-E]

What cracks tubes? You mean the spindle itself?

[boosted300]

You need to put the bolts back in your struts where the e-brake bracket goes.  Some people have had this crack when it's left open.

 

Cary

 

Do you mean the two open bolt holes in the second pic?

[tube80z]

Yes

[boosted300]

Yes

 

Will do...thanks!

[gacksen]

have the full ACZ setup on th3e fronts and rears and first time install got me worried a bit on the rear as the tubes are only hold in place

with the pressure from below. next time i have the car on the ramps will drill holes in the tubes and get them secured. just in case.....

[heavy85]

 

If you are moderately handy, here is my modified stock arms. The inner pivots are offset bushings so can be rotated to adjust roll center. Gets the inherent bind out of the h-arm design and makes toe adjustment significantly easier. I can't understand why anyone would want to go through the cost and time of converting to heims and keep the h-arm design. Before this I simply used the offset inner bushings to set toe. Rear toe is very important IME.