heavy85 Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Happened yesterday at VIR on my 240Z. 44 year old casting with who knows how many miles, 10 years of racing plus the VIR curbs and one cracked through. Luckily I noticed before it totally came apart. Havent taken apart yet to get a good picture. So anyone seen this and reinforced to prevent? Its one of my biggest fears racing the Z is something breaking like this with modern sticky tires. Also APB out for replacement beefier later 260/280 uprights if you know of or have some available please let me know. Hopefully near central Illinois but will ship if have to. I want to replace them all front and rear and am currently out of commission for in the meat of the race season. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Where did it crack? I'd like to see a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Pictures please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 (edited) Anyone have a replacement I can buy? Edited May 23, 2016 by heavy85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Did the crack start at the screw holes where the parking brake cables would attach? Did you have screws installed in the holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 wow. scary stuff. Perhaps you shoudl consider the TTT rear spindles and going to a more modern hub and wheel bearing. Expensive I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 Did the crack start at the screw holes where the parking brake cables would attach? Did you have screws installed in the holes? Wrong side. Those holes are in the back, the front side cracked where there are no holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Damn. The sort of stuff you just put out of mind. I guess everything, given enough time/abuse, is prone to failure. Were there signs of failure or did you just get lucky on an inspection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 When you get the opportunity, I would really appreciate some more pictures from different angles. I am getting ready for a track day, and it would be nice to know what to inspect. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 Damn. The sort of stuff you just put out of mind. I guess everything, given enough time/abuse, is prone to failure. Were there signs of failure or did you just get lucky on an inspection? It was really loose. Still drivable but could feel something wasn't right. Then under yellow noticed it felt like dirt car where the rear haunched up under power and the steering wheel was about 10 degees off center going straight. Got real lucky because made a couple laps in anger like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 I broke one completely when I spun on a highway on-ramp back when I used to drive fast on the street. Broke wheel and upright just like you did. Wheel versus curb in a full spin going backwards did it for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Isn't VIR super high speed? Shudder to think what happens if that lets go at 160 mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 The internet says that new is still available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/2 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-assy-strut~55303-n3425.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Isn't VIR super high speed? Shudder to think what happens if that lets go at 160 mph. I only made it to 150 ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 You're good then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) Not something I've heard of before but after so many years service crack testing could be a good idea. For a temporary fix check with a specialist welder. Edited May 27, 2016 by 260DET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 ^^^ That makes me think of the uprights on Terry Oxandale's car. Remember he had lengthened the section under the bearing housing in order to raise the rear roll center and had welded an X in that space. Found it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 So now finally found replacements. Also found one front spindle is shot. The bearing race is worn down to where the bearing is spinning on the shaft and flopping around. So going to just change all four corners including upgrading to the beefier 280 parts. Plan to install new bearings and have to section them. Has anyone found and tested weld on reinforcements to stiffen or strengthen the uprights? I remember Cary talking about testing deflections and it was a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 I tested 240 parts and found they would move a lot more than expected. 280 struts will be better but you can create a sheet metal gusset from the tube to the spindle housing. Jon did this on his car and I can dig up some pics I have buried somewhere if you need. You have to figure you are putting a lot of stress on your parts with bigger sticky tires, a lot more HP and torque, and now aero. Here's an image of a Ground Control modified strut. Note the gusset used to stiffen the spindle The next step is to build a custom housing but when you get there it's probably time to start seriously looking at an a-arm retrofit. I have been playing around with a simple design that uses Nascar and dirt track pieces. I can't decide if a 7 inch upper is long enough (allows for 3 inches of suspension travel) or a longer upper is needed. At 7 inches I don't think you have to put holes into the engine compartment for mounts. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 What Cary said ^^^ I have seen it done before, plus put a spacer sleeve between the two front wheel bearings. This obviously provides support to the stub axle, of course the spacer has to be machined just right to keep the bearings happy. 240 struts should really not be used on a race car, particularly when stronger OE items are available. Mr Nissan did the upgrade for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.