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List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors


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I picked up a MS3x unit with wiring harnesses that was previously running a 1JZ in a Supra to convert my L28 over from carbs to EFI. I'm still deep in the learning phase, and am currently searching out all of my options for cam and crank sensors. I want this thread to serve as a list of what I've found. Your input is welcome and appreciated.




1982-83 280ZXT distributor with DIYautotune wheel

Purchase trigger wheel only, $28







- Provides both crank and cam signals for sequential injection

- DIYautotune support and documentation (installation and wiring guide)

- Widely available as remanufactured parts (currently ~$200)

- Shaft is available new (currently ~$90) as Nissan p/n 15040-P8000, "SPINDLE ASSY-OIL PUMP DRIVE", Lookup code 15040



- Requires specific oil pump shaft, which requires pulling timing cover/damper oil pump to install

- Less accurate at high RPM due to gear lash (is this a valid concern?), but is not of t concern unless gears are significantly worn.

- Used units are getting increasingly hard to find




Austin Hoke bolt-in kit 

Development pics

Purchase kit without sensor, $215

Purchase sensor, $37.50





- Crank mounted trigger wheel gives accurate signal throughout RPM range

- Well-designed kit with straightforward documentation

- Fit and finish look great

- Uses commonly used sensor

- Includes distributor block off plate 



- Must use Euro damper which is getting harder to find (Austin is currently developing a new one for the L24 damper)

- Cost




Drilling flywheel for hall sensor

Purchase hall sensor, $43

Will add example install links



- Cheap

- Accurate

- Sensor is tucked away nicely



- Requires pulling flywheel to modify

- May require balancing flywheel after modification




Custom mounting of universal or OEM trigger wheel

Purchase universal wheel, $29





- Can control details of mounting (two threaded holes on front of damper looks easiest, inspired by this post by BRAAP)

- Cheap



- Costly in time




Top End Performance Trigger Wheel fab Service, $200+
http://www.racetep.com/automaker/datsun-z/z-car-triple-sidedraft-weber-carb-and-fuel-injection-conversions.html]Info page, scroll to bottom





- Can send in your current pulley and they will fab a kit for it

- Can likely control some details since each one is custom



- Possible wait time? Each looks built to order




BJH Dynamics / Robello Racing 

BJH Datdun/Nissan Trigger Wheels

Robello Datsun Parts Page





- Quality looks top notch



- Fits their specific damper ($$$)

- Very expensive

- Looks like trigger wheel only without a bracket for the sensor







Jeep 4.0 CAS in stock distributor location

Installation writeup by jacky4566





- Simple modification for install

- Easy to install/remove

- Sensor is cheap and widely available both new, used, and remanufactured



- Uses distributor location, so crank signal must come from another spot






I'll continue to update this post with more info as I come across it

Edited by cockerstar
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You don't have to pull the Timing Cover when you change the OP spindle shaft. Just remove  the oil pump. The spindle shaft will drop down when you remove the pump.


Spindle shaft has special splined drive to eliminate slop on Dizzy end. Gear slop is not a big concern if new gears are installed.

Edited by Chickenman
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I made the list! Thanks.


FYI Technically you could combine my cam trigger with a flywheel trigger for a "duel wheel no missing teeth". No counterweighting!


Definitely the case! With your setup some other kind of crank angle sensor is needed. Is there a practicality to having cam angle without crank angle?




I think if the flywheel was drilled at a machine shop that could make exact depth and degree spacing that you might get away without balancing .


Pro: more stable and probably more accurate signal


You're probably right about being able to skip the balancing if it's accurately machined. I'm guessing that it wouldn't be far off with a DIY drilling if you're accurate enough for it to be useful as a trigger. Is a flywheel trigger more accurate than a damper mounted one? I wouldn't think so.



You don't have to pull the Timing Cover when you change the OP spindle shaft. Just remove  the oil pump. The spindle shaft will drop down when you remove the pump.


Spindle shaft has special splined drive to eliminate slop on Dizzy end. Gear slop is not a big concern if new gears are installed.


Thanks for the info! I didn't realize it would pull out with the pump. Are new gears available? 



I've made a few edits to my original post to reflect new info.

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Thanks for the info! I didn't realize it would pull out with the pump. Are new gears available?


Yep. Crank oil worm gear. 15043-21000 Approx $60 USD. Available from Nissan dealers or online stires such as Courtesy parts.




Turbo oil spindle . 15040-P8000 Approx $95 USD. ( Sometimes us Canadians get a deal. I paid $75 CDN from my dealer. Ordered part direct from Japan. )



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Thanks for putting this together! Awesome resource for future MSx installs.


I've got the Hoke Performance crank trigger kit installed on a Professional Products SFI rated damper (PN: 90055). 


- install guide from Andrew. 


In your price breakout, there are also some taps and drill bits needed to install the kit, adds about $20 IRC. 

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Rock Auto has A1 Cardone remanufactured 1983 Turbo ZX distributors #311003 for $166.79 out right. Does not include Cap and rotor, but these are also available from Rock Auto.


I picked up one of these distributors for my Haltech conversion and it seems well made. ( Conversion was only tested due to time an health issues )  Note I did have to do a bit of fine tuning to th CAS trigger setup. Out of the box, the CAS assembly was rubbing on the trigger wheel. Taking it apart I found that a couple of plastic " Nubs " on the bottom of the CAS assembly were preventing it from sitting flush. Five minutes with a file and a careful alignment on re-assembly and it was Golden.


I think the issue is because A1-Cardone uses a Maxima CAS assembly instead of the original 280ZXT CAS. The locating nubs are slightly different . I also had to drill out the threaded mounting holes in the Dizzy body. The 280ZXT CAS has non threaded mounting holes and the screws slip though the CAS assembly and thread into the Dizzy body, which is threaded. The Maxima CAS is the opposite, and has the threaded holes in the CAS and the Maxima Dizzy body has un-threaded holes. So the screws go in from the bottom of the Dizzy body and thread into the CAS assembly.


As A1-Cardone had it setup, both the Maxima CAS body and the 280ZXT Dizzy body had threaded holes and they just ran the screws down from the top though both sets of threads. Unfortunately this allowed no " wiggle room " for alignment of the CAS to trigger wheel and you got some very slight rubbing. Drilling out the threads from the 280ZXT bodyand inserting the screws from the bottom up allows for slight alignment changes to be made. YMMV.

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  • 1 month later...



This is what I'm running and it works great.  I prefer the look of the hidden wheels or having the teeth at the back of the crank but this is very unobtrusive, install is a breeze, and adjusting for timing took no time at all


* I was able to make my stock timing indicator work by just bending to fit

Edited by zjohnson1
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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 years later...
14 hours ago, Skull_Leader said:

It's been two years. is there anything new? The turbo distributors seem to be extinct, and Hoke seems to be defunct. I have a ZX, and I'm trying to keep my power steering and A/C

AEM's EPM provides precise engine position using dual zero-speed optical sensors, which offers the advantage of immediate signal generation regardless of engine speed. The EPM easily adapts to any positive-drive, half-engine speed device such as a cam or distributor drive, and can be used with any aftermarket engine management system that recognizes a 12-tooth crank 1-tooth cam pattern.


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