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ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread


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17 hours ago, Ironhead said:

 

I would say I am happy with it.  Reasonably quiet at idle, pretty aggressive sounding when you step on it.  Definitely quieter than I expected it to be....which is fine.  I'm not really a fan of loud cars....even track cars.


im with you! I have been searching and searching for the quietest performance muffler/resonator I can. The best I have done is find some comparison data online. According to one website and a few forums, the Borla XS straight-through mufflers are the best, although 110db at WOT is still pretty damn loud. If you can pair it with a resonator, even better. As was mentioned though, there just isn’t much room under a Z to put both without limiting ride height. 

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10 minutes ago, AydinZ71 said:


im with you! I have been searching and searching for the quietest performance muffler/resonator I can. The best I have done is find some comparison data online. According to one website and a few forums, the Borla XS straight-through mufflers are the best, although 110db at WOT is still pretty damn loud. If you can pair it with a resonator, even better. As was mentioned though, there just isn’t much room under a Z to put both without limiting ride height. 

 

I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor.  Recall it is the header collector???

 

Ironhead, what was used as the resonator?  My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.

 

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7 minutes ago, 280Z-LS3 said:

 

I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor.  Recall it is the header collector???

 

Ironhead, what was used as the resonator?  My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.

 


oh I meant if a muffler and resonator were used in combination. Some websites indicated this was the best overall solution. I can see using a resonator as a muffler in the rear. There aren’t any other recessed areas I can see that could accept the resonator if you already have a muffler in the traditional location. 
 

several folks seem to like the resonator as a muffler solution. if used in combination with a performance muffler, that’s probably best-case for noise suppression and performance. 

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5 hours ago, 280Z-LS3 said:

 

I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor.  Recall it is the header collector???

 

Ironhead, what was used as the resonator?  My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.

 

 

This is the resonator(s) I used:

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-1794

 

As far as ground clearance, I have a couple of low spots, but the header collectors are the lowest.   I would like to see someone build 1 7/8" long tube headers and dual 3" exhaust without winding up with compromised ground clearance.  I sure as hell couldn't find a way to do it. 

 

If you went with single 4" exhaust you could better tuck it into the driveshaft tunnel and pick up ground clearance without losing much (if any) flow, but the headers would still be a problem.

 

I thought about making shorty headers...so the collectors could be higher up and not lower ground clearance, but I just don't think there is enough room to do it.

 

 

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5 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:


im with you! I have been searching and searching for the quietest performance muffler/resonator I can. The best I have done is find some comparison data online. According to one website and a few forums, the Borla XS straight-through mufflers are the best, although 110db at WOT is still pretty damn loud. If you can pair it with a resonator, even better. As was mentioned though, there just isn’t much room under a Z to put both without limiting ride height. 

 

I think the Borla and Magnaflow straight-through mufflers are fairly equivalent.  The key is just to have as much volume (large mufflers) as you can find a place for.  I have two large Magnaflows under the fuel cell (lots of heat shielding) and they have good ground clearance.  But, to accomplish that....I raised the fuel cell a couple of inches when I was designing the rear end of the car.  Which, of course, raises CG a bit....

 

Everything is a tradeoff.

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I added a couple of coats of Raptor Liner to the areas I knew would almost immediately receive rock chips if left unprotected.  I'm not crazy about how it looks, but figured it's either that or pock-marked paint.

 

Now I have to let the car sit for a while.  Raptor Liner "mostly" dries fairly quickly, but remains soft for a surprisingly long period of time....I am going to refrain from driving the car for at least a week while it fully hardens.

 

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2 hours ago, fusion said:

Why wouldn't you use clear paint protection film instead?

I could have....

 

I already had significant rock chipping from one short drive.  This would have needed touching up, or even a repaint...before PPF.  I was blown away by the amount of gravel thrown up by the soft compound tires. The Raptor Liner killed two birds with one stone.

 

I really like Raptor Liner.  It is affordable, easy to use, durable, and simple to seamlessly retouch.  I thought about doing the tintable Raptor Liner and matching the paint, but decided this is a track car, not a show car, and just went with black.

 

I would have had to outsource the PPF work, and I have trust issues...what can I say?

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39 minutes ago, JMortensen said:

I dig it. Reminds me of the 80's 930 Turbo with the black guards on the rear flares. Was considering doing something similar on mine.

 

Thanks.

 

I remember your car has large rear flares.  Do they get absolutely peppered with rocks?  I think part of my mistake was driving the car without the front fenders installed...but I got rock chips on the front of the rear over-fenders and on the leading edge of the doors.  There was literally like two fist-fulls of gravel deposited on the inside of the rear over-fenders.  The front fenders will solve the issue with the leading edge of the doors, but in the rear I decided some kind of protective coating was the only option.

 

I also made some tight fitting fender liners out of 1/16" ABS to somewhat control the flying rocks (I was going to forego this step in the front).

 

I don't entirely get it.  My other track car has Toyo R888s on it, and doesn't have this problem with thrown gravel.  On the "Z" I am running R888Rs, which apparently are significantly softer.  

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Mine's a trailered autox car so not many miles on it. It definitely has some stone chips in the flares, but the biggest damage so far has come from hitting a cone with the rear flare. Spider cracked the gel coat. Still haven't decided what to do about it, but I don't want to put a lot of work into making it pretty because it's a Rustoleum painted race car.

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