DuffyMahoney Posted August 16, 2019 Author Share Posted August 16, 2019 Plug works perfectly. Also allows me to have the wire in a perfect line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 20, 2019 Author Share Posted August 20, 2019 I got all my boots in, I wish there was an easy way to test the coils. But I know the spring is compressed on the spark plug, so I should be good. How has everyone run new ecu wiring into the engine bay? My early 240z has dealer AC. Which complicates things. Really I only have two holes open. The choke cable hole and the tunnel hole near the shifter. I would rather not cut any holes. If I leave the coil power wiring in the engine bay and do the o2 sensor and maybe the triggers for the coils through tunnel hole I am thinking I might have enough room for it with those two holes? It’s going to be tight, but I think I can do it all clean and nice. I will be using german braied loom for the whole project. No pulsed outputs. Plans Choke hole Injector wiring Cas wiring Air temp Coolant temp TPS Crank trigger wiring Tunnel hole Injector triggers Power and ground O2 sensor Fuel pump wiring is already in place. I also got in the euro kit from Hoke for my crank trigger. Which should work better on my series 1 dampener. I have to remove .08 from the backside to have it perfect. Then off to paint. Blue or black?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben280 Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 What ECU are you using? To me, splitting the engine harness to exit through two holes and then rejoin at different connectors sounds like an easily avoided nightmare. I'd suggest running everything out of the tunnel, unless you wanted to install some kind of bulkhead connector in the choke hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 20, 2019 Author Share Posted August 20, 2019 Haltech elite 750 harness will have to be split anyways (each side of the engine) . It won’t rejoin at all. I am more and more confident I can do it in those two holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 I ran my harness through the choke hole and a secondary hole I made on the right side. I have a few more sensors then you on the left and was able to squeeze it through the choke hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential. I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd. I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest. Which has the correct trigger wheel. Pretty neat. Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend. Pretty excited! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 3 hours ago, bradyzq said: If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators. Great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 Anyone have a haltech elite 750 file? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 280zxt dizzy is done. It has a cas and a disk out of some 1998 nissan with less then 10k miles I found on ebay. I vapor blasted it. I might not be able to live with the size of it. It's pretty huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 Well I looked into the Jeep. I found a nos Jeep unit and vapor blasted my pedestal. I will take it to my machine shop on Tuesday. I will have it matched to the stock spline and I will use the stock shaft bushing. I like the size/ looks better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 I got my Jenvy throttles in from Datsun Spirit. I found out they each have a 6mm vacuum port on top! . I will use these for map, FPR and maybe IAC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 (edited) I also got my haltech in. I opted for the non terminated ended one. It’s has a very fancy fuse panel, relay board and it’s nice small package. I am taking my kick panel and having it copied in aluminum. Then powder coated (wrinkle or semi gloss?), I will use it to mount my ecu, tach signal converter and the fuse panel. Edited August 31, 2019 by DuffyMahoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 I found some stack filters I like. The are three different size meshs. I was told I can remove one and add foam if needed. They look amazing. But we’re expensive. I hope I like the contrast of these and the Jenvy stacks From PJmotorsports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben280 Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 On 8/31/2019 at 6:41 AM, DuffyMahoney said: I got my Jenvy throttles in from Datsun Spirit. I found out they each have a 6mm vacuum port on top! . I will use these for map, FPR and maybe IAC. Those look great! For getting good MAP signal, be sure to run all the lines together into some sort of manifold. ITB's are annoying to tune already, having weak MAP signal will make it 10x worse, particularly at low end where presumable the ECU is going to actually attempt to reference MAP. Not sure that you need vac signal to your FPR, most EFI installs want constant pressure. Personally, I would put the IAC sensor on a bracket near the intake horns. Something about trying to get a temp signal from vacuum seems off to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 (edited) Air temp will be right next to the velocity stacks. Most likely off a stack bolt. I will do a small map LOG just off the throttle bodies. The jenvy has a nice 6mm vac port on them. I haven't decided on IAC or not yet. But the same vac port would work for it. Edited September 4, 2019 by DuffyMahoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 11 hours ago, Ben280 said: Not sure that you need vac signal to your FPR, most EFI installs want constant pressure. What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 I found a mil spec wiring harness that is within 1mm of what I was planning. Plus it looks amazing. I bought one, hopefully it plugs right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 What's the brand on that harness? A search PRP comes up with a ton of options and I can't quite read the smaller text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben280 Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 15 hours ago, Leon said: What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation. On a street driven car traditional plenum style intake sure! Referencing engine vacuum is useful while the car is at idle to improve fuel economy and maybe a LITTLE drivability, and in a boosted configuration it's essential to a safe motor. In my particular case, (NA, spends a lot of time at WOT) I would rather provide the ECU with a good MAP signal, and use the VE tables in the computer to control fueling. I think particularly with ITB's they develop such poor vacuum at really anything above 30% throttle, having the FPR reference anything is diminishing returns. For me, it's one more thing that can break, so I ignore it. I'm not a tuning wizard, but I've been running my fuel setup like this for 6+ years and have made pretty good power so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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