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3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47


madkaw

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8 hours ago, calZ said:

What were the issues you ran into with your intake? 

Runners are too short for the rpm range I want to make power at . Probably not as big a deal for a turbo - but for my NA it is 

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I think he might have short injectors on there. The protunerz page specifically says not to use those. He's testing the clearance with the injectors instead of the supplied brackets which would have clued him in to why it's too close to the thermostat.

 

Not to knock on the guy, I'm sure he got it figured out, but definitely seems like typical videos people post hoping to get some internet clout instead of spending their time actually working things out.

 

A lot of folks on youtube and other social media tend to post these long videos before even asking the supplier about their issue, instead of posting the result then mentioning the problems they ran into and how they were solved.

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1 hour ago, Zetsaz said:

I think he might have short injectors on there. The protunerz page specifically says not to use those. He's testing the clearance with the injectors instead of the supplied brackets which would have clued him in to why it's too close to the thermostat.

 

Not to knock on the guy, I'm sure he got it figured out, but definitely seems like typical videos people post hoping to get some internet clout instead of spending their time actually working things out.

 

A lot of folks on youtube and other social media tend to post these long videos before even asking the supplier about their issue, instead of posting the result then mentioning the problems they ran into and how they were solved.

Plus he had the intake hanging loose . It’s a very close fit to the thermostat where a millimeter makes a difference 

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On 1/23/2024 at 4:42 PM, madkaw said:


 

 

 

Are you sure you didn't have a Jeep stepper? Looks almost identical but the pattern isn't the same. I had both on hand and realized the bolts don't line up on a Jeep stepper despite being a nearly identical part.

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6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

 

Are you sure you didn't have a Jeep stepper? Looks almost identical but the pattern isn't the same. I had both on hand and realized the bolts don't line up on a Jeep stepper despite being a nearly identical part.

I think you are right !!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been driving her around with the new shiny bits and everything seems to be working well. 
No dyno runs coming up. I plan on swapping out my Bonk 2 cam to got back to Bonk 1 . Not sure I want or like this huge cam . Power band is really high which is okay - but I want some more low end . I think the longer runners with this intake has made things better than the previous intake , but power band is still way above 4K . I built a motor that can handle these rpm’s , but I’m wanting a little more civility for the road . Then there’s the stink of all that duration . 
So if anyone is looking for a race cam I will be selling this Bonk 2 . 
 

Now that I’ve gotten rid of the noisy G Force trans I can hear myself think driving around . Now I can hear noises that maybe were there before and I just could hear them . I think my Kameari tensioner is making the noise I hear now . Not sure how I can verify that though . 
 

 

IMG_8022.jpeg

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I neglected to share my transmission upgrade/downgrade - depends on your perspective . I was previously running a GForce T5 with straight cut gears . Whine was cool for one year and I was over it . Loved being able to slam gears and not worrying about shock loading the trans . Really liked all the shifter options with the T5.

i know some guys don’t like the heavy/ notchy shifter , but I like the feel .

I didn’t want to replace the G Force with the OEM NWC T5 . Didn’t want a 71B or 71C and parts are getting scarce . CD009 meant more weight , less room and more retro fitting . 
What I did was found a way to run a new Tremec T5 world class . I had to source a tailshaft from a WC T5 that put the shifter in the right position . NWC output shaft is only 1.3” and a WC is 1.5” so you can’t use the NWC tailshaft unless you weld build it and machine it out and hope it gets done right .

I got Modern Driveline to help me out doing the R&D . I sourced a WC tailshaft from a Commodore out of Australia . Shifter location is exactly the same . Modern Driveline machined the input shaft for proper length and pilot bearing size . I run a Ford clutch and I run  an internal slave unit . 
Modern Driveline installed the tailshaft on their new trans and made sure it worked good . That put a new detent plate in for the shifter and since I bought the trans new they honored their 2 year warranty !

Trans is very quiet and so far all is good . It’s rated at 330 ft pounds on a 3300 pound car , so it’s plenty strong enough . Best part is the trans bolts in just like the Nissan one . Yes you also need to modify the DS 

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Swapped out cams today and my back knows it . So I’ve never had this cam in with the Protunerz intake . I did run this Bonk 1 with the N42 intake . Lots of torque down low . The larger runners(38mm) are huge compared to the n42 and that alone moved the power band up the rpm’s range . The Bonk 2 just exacerbated the loss of low end .

i think this might be a good midway place to be . 
Id probably say that the runners could be a little smaller to be optimum . I will dyno run this thing whenever I think I got it tuned in well . 
Just found the only negative of my new WC trans. The .63 overdrive puts me right in the drone zone - it’s about ridiculous . Not sure what I can do about it . I have resonators in my exhaust - but might have to try a Hemoltz style to fix this .

Good day all in all . 

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9 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:

Could you change out the .63 5th for a .80?

I’ve reached out to Modern Driveline to see what Paul thinks . I think at the time he did offer a .75 OD at an extra cost . I didn’t think about this scenario . I’ve asked if I can use the NWC 5th gear like it was on my G Force

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  • 2 months later...

Update : I had been fighting an erratic wideband on the rear collector -cylinders 4-6. Well it turns out I still had a leak at the collector which is before the O2 sensors - dammit . 
This is a Z story header and collector . The collector pipe was modified for my exhaust and I thought I had the flange true , but it still leaked . This time around I eliminated the gasket all together and used Red Loctite only . At the same time I had a new O2 sensor installed since I was that deep into it . I DID see evidence of a leak but changed the sensor anyways . FIXED! 
This change helped so much with the tune and you could hear it ! I was able to get the banks to harmonize much better with AFR’s and sound . This helped to mitigate the drone I was getting at low rpm cruise . 
I thought this would also fix an issue I’ve seen on every intake I’ve used where the AFR’s between the two O2 sensors would be different during high vacuum running - light cruise . Megasquirt didn’t seem to be able to compensate in those scenarios though I had two separate O2 sensors dividing the banks . 
I ended up going into the injector trims and adding fuel to 1-3 since they ran really lean under high vacuum . Maybe they suck all the air out of the plenum before it reaches the last 3 cylinders . I added almost 20% to 1-3 . At this point the AFR’s evened up and you could feel and hear the difference . This is probably the best I’ve had my L running . 
Happy guy right now 
 

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  • 3 months later...

So I took the Z to the Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve done a long road trip in the Z and the only one with the 3.2 . 
Roughly 300 miles for me from Indiana . 
The Z did great and quite comfortable . What was crazy was I got 35 mpg at 75-80 mph cruising speed . I have a 3.9 diff and my OD is a .63 so I cruise at 2700-2800 rpm’s . 
I run the engine at about 15+ AFR’s .

I wonder if my intake plenum helps my aero ?

Referencing the wind tunnel info maybe my plenum builds that air wall in front of my car and makes the car more aerodynamic . It feels more competent on the road too

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