240z SCCA vintage race car, restoration

[JMortensen]

Read your previous post, if it's plugged at the wheel cyl probably just need to rebuild/replace.

[clarkspeed]

6 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

@clarkspeed thanks Clark. Because the brake lines and masters were all newly installed, I struggled getting enough “throw” without having the front bleed with the rear. I bled the front first so they had little travel. The front would lock up quick and the balance bar would give me another 3/8” throw on the rear as it pivots. I bet it would be fine if my rear drum cylinder was not clogged, but I seemed to be just compressing air in the rear line. 
 

going to get going on the rear drum-rotor conversion w/ the dynalite calipers. Thanks again for all the files you sent a few months ago! Il try to pick a reasonable rotor diameter so balancing with the fronts aren’t a challenge, and I’ll use your calc. 

Yea, I could see that happening. A lot depends on the volume of the slaves. Luckily there is more than one way to skin the horse. 

[tube80z]

On 9/28/2023 at 11:48 AM, AydinZ71 said:

Seems silly to replace the drum cylinder now just to remove them again after j a few months, so it looks like I’ll have to do the rear disk conversion now. 
 

@clarkspeed dusting off your really helpful e-mails on the rear brake design and brake setup. I’ll make an initial plan and look forward to your feedback.

 

primary concern now is to ensure I don’t go TOO big in the rear so my brake bias is not too lopsided. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey Aydin,  I would do one small mod that will save you down the road.  Use a small section of flexible brake lines that goes from the masters to a block on the firewall that terminates the hard lines and has a high spot for a bleeder (one with a check valve).

 

When I got this advice I thought it was stupid until I needed to fix a master that was leaky.  I had it removed, new one installed, and blead in about 5 minutes.   When a friend had a similar issue the hard line kept leaking and this similar process was a half hour or more. 

 

Cary 

 

 

[AydinZ71]

@tube80z hey to you too Cary!  
 

@JMortensen yep. Just going to do the disk conversion now, instead of waiting for weigh-in. 
 

some shots from Greg’s win at the runoffs yesterday at VIR. Got to spend some time with Sam Neeve and asked a ton of questions. I hope I’m as sharp as he is when I’m his age. 
 

young guy by the name of John Hainsworth qualified pole. Made Greg work like hell. 

[AydinZ71]

@tube80z That's a neat trick Cary! Its definitely something I would try! I was surprised how quickly my front brakes bled, and how few leaks I had. The copper-nickel alloy lines seal so much easier than the experience I had with stainless. I'm a big fan. 

[AydinZ71]

Update:

ordered all the parts for the rear disk conversion including the willwood dynapro “lightweight” calipers. Many thanks to Clark for his help on the caliper bracket! Painting my Swain coated header and the valve cover. Assembling gauge cluster 

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2023 by AydinZ71

[jhm]

On 10/1/2023 at 8:31 PM, AydinZ71 said:

The copper-nickel alloy lines seal so much easier than the experience I had with stainless. I'm a big fan. 

 

100% agree!!  I've used copper-nickel (aka "cunifer") lines on my last two cars; and will NEVER use anything else.  Easier to work with; seals better; corrosion-resistant; and quite good-looking IMHO.

 

Good luck with the rear disc install!

[AydinZ71]

Updates:

 

1) rear brakes done. many thanks to @clarkspeed for his CAD file! The brackets for my rear dynapro “lightweight”s worked brilliantly. OEM 258mm disk from a 280zx. For those of you that are considering rear disk conversion: think small. You don’t need massive clamping power back there. Unless you are doing it for looks or bragging (which 95% of people are, and is totally OK!), re-consider the added weight of these massive 290+mm disks and four piston rears on a 2300-2800lb S30. You just don’t need them, and are likely to out-brake your front’s. 
 

2) wiring has started about halfway done. Wiring harness to the rear of the car is complete, including fuel gauge, pumps, and rear lights. I have wiring turn signals to get me to-and-from the track until I have the space and money for a trailer. 
 

3) gauge cluster wiring is complete. Going to install the panel and continue wiring. I designed my EDIS+megajolt mini electrical panel to be easily swapped-out with an ECU panel in the future, so I have connectors for the critical sensor inputs. 
 

 

 

Edited October 29, 2023 by AydinZ71

[AydinZ71]

Just a picture 

[AydinZ71]

Hi friends! 
 

was in Aussie for two weeks vacation and just got back. Ready to get back to work. Head is on the L24, and ready to dial in the cam timing. 
 

This is just a mild street head to run while I sort out the commissioning of all the cars components (literally everything is newly installed). I will not swap for the EP head (race cam) until I’m confident enough bugs are worked out on the chassis, clutch, carbs, everything really. 
 

first time dialing a cam. Attached is the only document I have on it. I have zero’d the wheel and block through the #1 spark-plug hole and did so over several sweeps to make sure it’s accurate. +.05 to -.05, split the difference on the wheel. Made sure it’s the same + - degree on the wheel so TDC is indeed at the crest. Adjustable cam gear is on, and I believe it’s set to the right teeth. Just ready for adjustment.

 

first time doing this. Anyone know based on the attached image, what degree I should be reading on my wheel when the intake valve is at peak opening? 
 

otherwise, I can start measuring degrees at the start and finish of opening and assume the crest is in the middle. 

the other pic is just my degree where and indicator installed before I put the head on. 

 

Edited December 1, 2023 by AydinZ71

[AydinZ71]

SOLVED! 
 

bottom right hand corner of that picture is the lobe center. Trial and error, realized that’s what that was after measuring intake valve movement on #1 several times. Although the valve opening and closing on the card didn’t match what I was seeing in the dial gauge, i was able to scale the numbers. Went +0.05 and -0.05 from lobe center, split the difference, and ensured the middle was 110deg. When checking the valve open (@0.01) and close, what I was measuring scaled. Pretty confident now the valve timing is correct. I even back-tracked to make sure bottom end was still 0 at TDC. 
 

this is a brand new chain. Old one was so stretched, the tensioner was cocked upwards and no longer concentric. However, since it’s new I’m going to have to check the valve timing again after break-in (head was rebuilt). I’m sure il get some stretch out of it. 

[clarkspeed]

You got it! 

 

My timing plate is marked with a range for typical Datsun cams for the 4 timing events. Makes it a little easier wrap my brain around it.

 

i like to look at it like this. Intake valve opening is the most important timing sequence. In the end you are really just trying to get that point to match what you engine needs. Not to early and not too late to maximize power. I set the cam to the CL like you described and then adjust the gear a little on the dyno to max out power and torque.If you plan to adjust at the dyno with a high compression engine, I always check valve to piston clearance with the cam gear in min and max settings.²

[AydinZ71]

Thanks Clark! Just need to weld-on my 1/8” NPT bung onto the OEM oil pan and I should be ready to finish assembling the L24. The 3.1L has Ben’s AZZCar oil pan, which already has nozzles I can use for oil temp. 
 

I think the L24 will be OK on track with the 3qt accusump.

[AydinZ71]

Hi all!

 

Question: anyone have a source for high quality, custom length spark plug wires? I am using the MegaJolt ignition controller with crank fire and a EDIS 6 plug coil. 
 

Also, any tips and tricks to picking the right spark plugs? I am familiar with the OEM style NGK’s, buts it’s been 20 years since I picked a plug temp spec. 
 

Updates:

1) Denso 6lb alternator (Nissan 1-wire is 10lb) installed. Custom mount fabricated from steel angle, and McMaster rod ends to make a belt tensioning turnbuckle. 

2) brake pressure switch installed and functional.

 

3) interior wiring complete and 50% of engine compartment wiring. 
 

4) oil pan back on engine with oil temp sensor installed. 
 

5) oil pressure switch, and remote oil pressure transducer installed. 
 

engine turned over until I have oil leaving cylinder head cam oiler holes. 
 

 

[Derek]

7 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

Question: anyone have a source for high quality, custom length spark plug wires? I am using the MegaJolt ignition controller with crank fire and a EDIS 6 plug coil. 

I've been very happy with Magnacore wires. I've had two custom sets made and never had an issue. I'm running an EDIS 6 coil with a crank trigger and MS3 FYI. 

[AydinZ71]

@Derek thanks! I’ll look into Magnacore now! 
 

PS: big fab of your AL casting work. 

[AydinZ71]

Hi all! I’m about a week or so away from start-up on the race car. Running a street-able cam at the moment (280dur, .460 lift) with the SU’s and SM needles. Static CR us 10:1. I have the MegaJolt crank-fire ignition, and I’m looking to load my first ignition map. Does anyone else run programmable ignition and have a map they can share? Screen shots would be great. I’m looking for advance based on RPM, and advance/retard from throttle position. 

 

I have searched the forum and found some screen shots, but they are very old. Also have not seen any data on TPS ignition influence.

 

thanks in advance! 

[AydinZ71]

First start up since starting the restoration. Kind of shocked she started right up on the first go. Was expecting something on the MegaJolt to need fixing, but it worked great. 
 

Went with Magnacor wires, but they made a mistake and did not fit them up with the right coil boots. Being remade and shipped, so I am using 05’ ford explorer NGK wires for now. Went with a “7” heat NGK plug on account of the 10:1 CR. It’s raining this weekend, but just need to dial-in some crude alignment and she will be road worthy 

Edited January 19 by AydinZ71

[AydinZ71]

Just a photo dump update. Car is on the road. Just need a few loose ends and I’ll be off to a test & tune track day. 
 

- added too much rear track in my rear. Too much for the Datsun restomod STI CV shafts. Had a spacer made by send-cut-send w/ a centering pilot. Works great so far. Will eventually get longer length CV inner shaft made. 
 

- fuel cell bladder was giving off way too much fumes to be normal. Replaced the bladder…. Gosh they are expensive! 
 

- got a set of used Longacre scales for a great deal! 
 

- rigged up a way for the valve cover breather and block breather to dump into a single catch can. Can is ventilated back through the air cleaner of my forward SU. Floats are also vented to the air cleaner. 
 

- polycarb windshield is on. Works great, and almost looks like glass. I need some tips on keeping it scratch-free. 
 

- new fire bottle on the way (mine expired years ago). SFI cert 5-pt harness is in. Still need some time to adapt Greg Ira’s race seat into the car, but for now the cheap used corbeau seats are working. 

 

- 

[rossman]

Congrats for getting her on the road!