How much did everyone spend on their V8 Conversion?

[jeff81]

Up closer to 40k on parts at this point. I have not cut many corners on parts and components. Will update as car goes to a good shop to get things done. My goal is not economy. After I am done with the build, it should last and be pretty reliable. I accepted the car on the basis that I would get it up and keep it running for the long term. My second father gave it to me. Recently he was very happy that assembly on the car is getting going. He would not sell the car, so I have taken the responsibility to get it up and keep it going. It was the first car he purchased after he got married. Purchased it only about a year old used and kept it ever since (Model 1977.5 280Z). It is a very emotional and personal connection is the only reason why I would take and do such a large and expansive project. I have purchased almost everything new. Still need interior items, radiator, AC condenser, rims, tires, seats, and chassis wiring harness to have an essentially completely new car. Fully stripped and going to be reassembled. Hopefully a fun car to be enjoyed for years to come.

I thought I would but an idea of why some would redo a car instead of purchase a new one.

 

Jeff

Edited May 28, 2010 by jeff81

[bleakdragonmage]

I'm sitting right at 7000$ for my LT1 Z31. Almost ready, i have about another 500$ worth of stuff to buy. Still need to finish off the fuel system. I need the lines, FPR, and all the fittings. Should be on the road soon.

[GOTHALOSISM]

Right now I'm sitting at $2443, that inlcudes the 1K I spent on buying the car. I still have to get my driveshaft done and other minor things.

[NewZMan]

I got my 280ZX from a city auction - $150.00 - Nearly $10,000 in the V8 swap with body kit and I still have to repaint her!

[hpltree]

well if you dont let my wife see this i have spent over 3 grand on the motor alone plus 3 something for the mounting kit and book from JTR that i recomend +++++++++ not sure on the total yet

[BAINATSEABOARD]

WAAAAY too much. I stopped counting long ago. I would guess between 40 and 50K. I never planned on that much. It is an addiction. I'm seeking help...lol

[digginmyz]

Hey guys, I've always wanted a Z since i was in high school, and now I have a 77 280z that i got for free. However, i plan to use that one for parts and i plan to buy a 70-73 model so I can be smog exempt when I do the V8 conversion. I just wanted to know how much everyone spent on their Z's and how much money will I approximately need in order to do JUST the conversion (getting the engine and tranny in). Can you guys also tell me how much work it'll take and what kind of tools i'll need?

 

Hey back, I have the same deal as you. I own a 71 & 72 240z's and want to v-8 one. I got a quote of $12,000 turnkey to put in an LS1 350 shortblock. That's in Dallas, Tx. As far as buying the 240....paid $1850 for the 71 in 1995 & just paid $2400 for the 72, but the 72 spent 35 years in a barn so little rust. The biggest thing on a v-8 conversion is if the engine metal has rust, don't but it. Not for a v-8 conversion.

I just talked to a man who doe's this and he said if there's rust, you need to pass it up.

 

I need lots of help here & money

 

Good luck, Donnie

[hpltree]

i spent 300 bucks on the car and then got tired of it.. even with dual webers that helped out alot i just needed to do the v8 conv.. it is running now and is a blast i think im about 5 to 6 grand without adding all the little things but if you buy and old used motor that runs you get it done cheeper. my $80 chevy 350 that i was going to re ring and put new bearings in ended up being a full rebuild plus new heads and so on..... so be ready for the unexpected..

[hpltree]

but it runs like the race car i never had.. it puts back in the seat hard and then a bit more.. i am almost scared to put it to the floor after it gets broken in

[z2go]

hpltree, you have a PM.

[_Donovan_]

I already owned the car, '76 280Z, and found a LT-1/4L60-E from a '94 Roadmaster for $850. Decided to go for it. Ebayed a JTR kit and book for $100 minus speedo cable and flange. At this point it all seemed easy and cheap. I was wrong, well it wasn't a hard install so far but is expensive. Right now I have the engine in and mounted, most of the wiring together, radiator, and headers and I see I am still about $3.5k away from getting this thing together. As far as just getting it running probably $1k and so far spent about $2k. Not complaining, I like this and I will be happy when done.

[Zinger]

8 g's on parts alone.

Home made labor. Lol

And boy does everybody look when it goes by.

[leopard_125]

Well they say if you have to ask you might not have enough!

 

I hope My wife dosent checkin here and see I'm a 15K and not done yet.

 

Car, engine, trans, r200, bits and pieces.

now on to suspension.

[RebekahsZ]

Build the 280z. I'm working on a 240z LS2 swap and soooooo many of the changes I'm having to make ae particular to a carbureted car. A fuel injected car (280z) would have saved a LOT of what I'm having to do.

[Adam]

Probably about 30k in mine and of course still not done. As a matter of fact was going to turbo it within the next month but now I am having problems keeping it cool. Any suggestions on a radiator for a large cid s30?

[GOTHALOSISM]

Get the JTR radiator and dual electric fans.

[355datsun280z]

Mine was fairly cheap. I have a 77 280z and I made my engine mounts out of 2x2 square tubing and some 1/4 flat sheet metal I had laying around and also the made my own tranny mount out of 1x1 square tubing and bolts and stuff laying around the shop. Had to buy some grade 8 bolts and what not but I didn't buy any of that jtr crap. I didn't like how the motors fit and shoved so far out front in the engine bay. My distributor is only like a 1/4in from the fire wall and I had to remove my hood latch but I wanted hood pins anyways. So you figure for bolts and the tubing and flat sheet mteal for the engine mounts and tranny mounts cost less than 50 bucks and I had the driveline made for another 50 bucks and im running summit street rod or block hugger headers that were like 150 bucks or something and im running a stock radiator with a electric fan with shroud out of a volvo that fits from corner to corner on the radiator perfectly and it doesn't get hot at all. Takes 30 mins of idleing to get the thermostat to open just sitting there. But really if your looking at the cost of initial swap and your just talking about dropping the motor in and tranny in you can do it for under 250 bucks if you build the stuff yourself and not buy the stupid kit from jtr. Otherwise you can be nose heavy like everyone else out there and basically waste a ton of money on something that is soooo easy and cheap to make. Literally

[Kevin.pk]

The jtr kit puts the engine about as far back and low as possible... You have to remove the hood latch with jtr mounts too. Are you sure you aren't thinking of the MSA or scarab mounts?

[Michael]

Right, and if one already had...

 

- a well-sorted S30 with no rust and the good suspension bits already installed

- the new engine, all dressed and complete

- the new transmission, mated to the new engine, with the correct clutch and hydraulics

- a shop with a lift, metal-working tools, pneumatics, and welding equipment

- shelves stocked with scrap metal in various grades and sizes

- cabinets with bolts, clamps, tubing and the like

- decades of experience

- a network of friends, suppliers and craftsmen in the automotive business

- a thorough plan for exactly what one wants to achieve, and how to achieve it

- business-savvy, knowing how to work the junkyards, E-bay, RacingJunk and Craigslist

 

Then the cost would actually be negative... because your to-be-installed parts are free, and you can sell the parts that are to be removed during the build!

[myzblubyu]

Mine was fairly cheap. I have a 77 280z and I made my engine mounts out of 2x2 square tubing and some 1/4 flat sheet metal I had laying around and also the made my own tranny mount out of 1x1 square tubing and bolts and stuff laying around the shop. Had to buy some grade 8 bolts and what not but I didn't buy any of that jtr crap. I didn't like how the motors fit and shoved so far out front in the engine bay. My distributor is only like a 1/4in from the fire wall and I had to remove my hood latch but I wanted hood pins anyways. So you figure for bolts and the tubing and flat sheet mteal for the engine mounts and tranny mounts cost less than 50 bucks and I had the driveline made for another 50 bucks and im running summit street rod or block hugger headers that were like 150 bucks or something and im running a stock radiator with a electric fan with shroud out of a volvo that fits from corner to corner on the radiator perfectly and it doesn't get hot at all. Takes 30 mins of idleing to get the thermostat to open just sitting there. But really if your looking at the cost of initial swap and your just talking about dropping the motor in and tranny in you can do it for under 250 bucks if you build the stuff yourself and not buy the stupid kit from jtr. Otherwise you can be nose heavy like everyone else out there and basically waste a ton of money on something that is soooo easy and cheap to make. Literally

Pictures??? The only way mt car will idle for "30 min" before the t-stat opens is if I forgot to put it in....lol