Careless Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Dare I ask if this OBX LSD will fit in my Z31 3.54 diff housing, now that I found out I don't have a CLSD? What would I need to change the final drive to 3.9 or so, too. I'm not too good with this "type" of LSD :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted January 13, 2008 Author Share Posted January 13, 2008 It is faster and easier to just get a 3.9 diff and change the carrier and set the backlash. If you swap in a 3.9 into a different diff housing you will have to set pinion depth and backlash. Pinion depth isn't that hard if you have shims, a press and bearing puller. It just takes time to get it right. Dare I ask if this OBX LSD will fit in my Z31 3.54 diff housing, now that I found out I don't have a CLSD? What would I need to change the final drive to 3.9 or so, too. I'm not too good with this "type" of LSD :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 No problems with the installation. As you might expect, he had to install new shims to get the ring and pinion to mesh properly. New carrier bearings are required because once you pull the old bearings off the carrier they get deformed enough where they are not usable. He didn't need to touch the pinion or pinion bearing. He also installed new seals. I'll post an update when I get it installed and I have a chance to test drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 New carrier bearings are required because once you pull the old bearings off the carrier they get deformed enough where they are not usable. He didn't need to touch the pinion or pinion bearing. He also installed new seals. A proper carrier bearing puller will allow you to reuse the bearings. I swapped a Precision Gear LSD in my '95 12mm R200. It was a 3.54 geared unit from a Turbo car that burned with only 40k miles on the clock. All the bearings were perfect. I changed the front seal because I had to change the yoke. In my case, I did not pull the pinion either and backlash was identical when the PGLSD went in. Bearings are kinda' pricey so it may be worth a visit to a diff shop to get a quote on swapping them for you. I know I'd do it for $20 if the diff's were out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I had the work done at Durabild in Nashua NH, ask for Skip. He worked on a Z SCCA race team back in the seventies, so he has rebuilt literally 100s of Z transmissions and rear ends. Skip said that even with the correct puller (which he has), the bearing can get slightly deformed, limiting their life. The bearing casing is much stronger on the end where you press them on, as compared to the end where the puller applies force. The bearings cost $50 each (cheap insurance). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 The bearing puller that Mike C has is specifically designed for the job of pulling carrier bearings without deforming them. It isn't an appropriate sized splitter, it is a special tool called a carrier bearing puller. Some diffs (Danas) require that you shim the backlash under the carrier bearing, hence the existence of such a tool. Here it is for sale on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Carrier-Bearing-Puller-Tool-Dana/dp/B000KCJPMC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 When I picked up the differential, Skip clarified is reason for having to replace the bearings. He says that to properly setup the ring and pinion, you need to install and remove the bearings a number of times (not sure how many). After you press on and pull off that many times, the bearings should be replaced. He will do the job without new bearings, but he won't guarantee the work. If go ahead with the new bearings, he hones the old bearing so he can slip them on and off the carrier during the setup process. Once it is setup, he presses the new bearings on the carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Pete, that would make sense if you had a Dana differential, but on the Z the shims go outside the bearings on the carrier. They would only need to be pulled off once to switch them from the old diff to the new diff. What we're arguing over really doesn't matter. There is no harm in using new bearings (obviously). If someone has access to the $400 special tool, then they can swap their old carrier bearings onto a new LSD and save $40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 That makes sense. Whatever, or got new bearings in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happynukes Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 ok i see that this one has been pushed along for a quite a bit and its still alive so i don't feel ashamed for asking this. 1. did we ever get a final note on the obx setup 2. i have 76 with what i am assuming is a longnose r200 in it. I will have over the 400ft-lbs. mark due to a v8 swap so should i go with the obx or start saving now for the quaife? 3. what was the final verdict for what is needed for the obx swap to the r200 (washer placement, halfshafts, cv's etc.) thanks i've read through all of this but there is so much to breathe in!! is this a sticky by the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 A few people are running them. Mine car is still on jack stands for the winter, so I won't know for a few more weeks if my swap went OK. I think these are fairly decent units, but a Quaife is better quality. You can buy 4 of the OBX unit for the price of one Quaife. If your OBX has the 12.9 grade bolts (mine did), then all you need to do is swap in new washers. McMaster Carr has them for around $7. They are easy to install. If you don't have the right tools to setup the ring and pinion, have someone do it for you. It cost me $100 for the labor. Another note from my OBX install. The OBX ring gear flange must be thicker than the one on the stock open carrier. The reason why I say this is that the ring gear bolts will rub against the housing if the bolt heads are not positioned with the flat part of the hex down. With mine, even with them situated that way I still had a very slight rub. Nothing that a tiny bit of filing of the suspect bolt wouldn't cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happynukes Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 do you know of a good source to buy one of these for a good price and which one in particular i saw the 240sx mentioned earlier. rear ends are a new subject for me, and i'd lke my project to have as little failures as possible the body is almost done and the engine will be built this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Looking for follow up on this. How are the re-shimmed diffs holding up? If so, did you use the ))))(((( configuration? On stock washers? On McMaster? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I drove mine a few weeks ago, and I noticed that it is a bit more noisy than the CLSD, but then I also put the Ron Tyler mount in there at the same time. I did replace the factory washers with the McMaster-Carr ones. I did use the ))))(((( configuration. The LSD action works nice. I won't know if I prefer it over the CLSD until I drive it more (got snowed in again). It definitely engages when torque is applied. Slow turns around corners it feels like an open diff. Get on it hard, and both light up. Hard out of a turn also lights them up quite easily (the car it is in makes 320ft-lbs to the wheels at 2800RPM). I plan on driving it a lot this year, and also may do a track day at Mid Ohio with it at this years convention, so I will post updates as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Thanks for the info! Sounds good. Do you notice the engagement as a kind of delayed thing. As in, do you notice it feeling open around the corner - then you apply power - then a half second later torque split. Or is it instantaneous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 It locks up very fast. I got to drive it m ore to really get a feel for it. Got another 4" of snow today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 Kabump. Anyone else have more experience or input on these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 I drove mine a few weeks ago, and I noticed that it is a bit more noisy than the CLSD, but then I also put the Ron Tyler mount in there at the same time. I did replace the factory washers with the McMaster-Carr ones. I did use the ))))(((( configuration. Any update on how this is holding up? Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Bumping this up again. Z-ya- Any feedback on the Obx? Ill be in the market for an LSD soon and for the price these look overly tempting. Id love o hear some feedback from others- I know some of you guys out here have put some of these in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 So far it is holding up fine to 300+ WHP/WT. It isn't the quietest LSD. Extra gear noise when cornering, a little gear whine when cruising. And of course with a RT or other poly mount its even louder. The Nissan CLSD is quiet by comparison. But the OBX works well, and hasn't broken yet. If you can find a used Nissan CLSD for a couple hundred more, I would go that route. But for the $300 plus $100 for setup, it's a good deal. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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