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OBX LSD for 240sx R200


Clifton

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Jon,

Thanks for responding, I went back and re-read the thread linked at the top of this page (Ok, now it's at the top of the previous page) yet again and think I know why you always recommend the clutch type diff. I also think I've re-convinced myself it's the better way to go, quality wise and matching my driving style better.

 

BTW: I attended a local Auto-X event this last weekend and there was another 240 there. It had a 280ZXT motor (estimated 200HP) with a 5-speed and an R160 LSD from a Subaru. The owner and I talked a bit and he plans to be at most of the local events this season (He's from Spokane). Unfortunately I ended up right behind him in grid so neither of us got to ride in the other's car but next event it will happen. I'll keep everyone here informed of how the Subby rearend holds up to the power of the turbo motor, might end up being a very viable, cheap LSD for 240s with the older R180s that have the bolt in halfshafts.

 

You know Jon, you should come over to the dry side of the mountains for an event or 2. Much fewer participants and cheaper fees. :)

 

Wheelman

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You know Jon, you should come over to the dry side of the mountains for an event or 2. Much fewer participants and cheaper fees. :)

I might have to take you up on that, we'll see if I have moved away first. But even before I consider heading out there, I've got to get my car back together. It's been down for 4+ years now. I've also sold my other stick shift vehicle about 6 months ago now, so when it does get back together I'll probably not have driven a manual transmission for over a year, and not autoxed for over 5 I'm guessing... just starting the sandbagging early. :wink:

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Jon,

So should I assume you'd start out in the NOVICE class then?!?! :)

 

JK, Your rusty reflexes might actually give my inexperienced reflexes a chance to make it competitive.

 

Edit: Have you decided where you want to move yet? I thought Boise was at the top of your list last I heard.

 

260DET,

I think we determined that those S15 helical centers require 30 spline output shafts which means you will need a custom set of axles to make it work. If you have one and can use the standard 29 spline R200 shafts with it please let us know.

 

Wheelman

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Edit: Have you decided where you want to move yet? I thought Boise was at the top of your list last I heard.

Lotta stuff going on right now with the wife taking flights to interviews and lots of checking real estate prices and crap like that. I'll have this figured out very soon, but not yet. A couple more weeks I figure. It's not going to be Boise. The wife pretty much put her foot down on that one...

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Jon,

..................

 

260DET,

I think we determined that those S15 helical centers require 30 spline output shafts which means you will need a custom set of axles to make it work. If you have one and can use the standard 29 spline R200 shafts with it please let us know.

 

Wheelman

 

Yeh, 30 spline 6 bolt CV type output shafts, which came from a GTR with a clutch type LSD. May be suitable for a big power CV axle conversion in a S30?

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the 30 spline outputs arent really a problem if you grab the output with it, then you can bolt up any s14 or other later model 6 bolt flange to it ie a hyrid half shaft, although if you just after a plug in type z31 NA or turbo shaft swap then probly a no go.

 

the s14 fellas here are swapping them like bits of lego, no real problems.

 

nato

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  • 1 month later...

I have one installed in my 260Z. It works well allthough it is very noisy. I have driven the car on the road for about 1000 miles and one day of 1/8 mile racing on the track with very grippy intermediate rally tires. I'll try to post a movie soon.

 

You should definitely replace the washers though. I took the dif apart after 500 miles to install the clips that hold the axles in place. the washers where worn away at the edges enough to fall out of the diff. A friend of mine is going to MSA next week (frank280zx). He'll be taking back some decent washers to replace mine.

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I've been running into lots of problems getting the engine together, so I won't have mine in and running for another....who knows. I will post an update when I try it out.

 

Does anyone have a set of R200 gears for sale? I've got a 3.50s, but I'd like something a little shorter, like a 3.90 or so.

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the OBX is very noisy. I have not measured it yet but I think the mating surface between the diff and ring gear is not exactly true. I think this could be the cause for the whining noise at cruising speed. When I pull the diff apart to replace the washers I will turn it down a little on a lathe and reshim it. The diff also ratles a lot. But this could be caused by the lose washers.

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I guess I made the right decision to go with the PowerBrute.

 

I've got about 150 miles on it now, at first it was little noisy and I'd feel it pop and release (for lack of better terms), but it has really smoothed out. The only time I feel it now is when I make a very sharp turn and I'm going slow like in a parking lot.

 

Wheelman

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Well, made an order and we are heading over to McMaster Carr right now for Frank to pick up his (and by proxy, Xander's) 12 packs of Bellville Washer Springs. The cost for a package of 12 is $7.46. Picking up 5 packages, so Frank and Xander can screw it up a few times, before having to call me for replacements! LOL

 

Well, we'll head there after going to the dyno. But in the grand scope of things, they will be acquired.

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The Bellville Washers arrived today with the UPS guy. Each package has the supplier's name and phone number, as well as a part number.

If anybody overseas wants to follow up to see if these people will ship directly to you, have at it! Here is the information from the package:

 

GARDNER SPRING

1-800-331-3263

MB1250-062

Bellevelle Disc Spring

Package Qty: 12

1.250 x 0.0630 x 0.062

 

Good Luck, keep us posted!

And the boost solenoids shipped the 27th to my place, slated for delivery on the 3rd, Xander. Yesterday while harvesting pulleys from the GM section of the PYP in Pedley, I got 5 each of the GM connectors from the washer reservoirs for you as well. Couldn't remember if it was the sensor or the washer pump motor connector, so I snagged 'em both.

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  • 4 weeks later...
the OBX is very noisy. I have not measured it yet but I think the mating surface between the diff and ring gear is not exactly true. I think this could be the cause for the whining noise at cruising speed. When I pull the diff apart to replace the washers I will turn it down a little on a lathe and reshim it. The diff also ratles a lot. But this could be caused by the lose washers.

 

 

IMO, the washers shouldn't be loose. I flipped the washers around in mine to get the largest stack-up height...which I interpret as preloads, then used a long pin to keep them aligned while I bolted the diff together. I reused the stock washers, but I'll pull it apart and check everything out after my first event, and replace if necessary.

 

I took the car for its first ride today, and I experienced something that I've never experienced before with a RWD car. Coming out of a corner, I stand on the throttle before I get it straight and the back end starts to step out...pretty far, then, instead of spinning, it sharply snapped back, glued the tires to street and took off..with almost no driver correction. In my truck (with a clutch type LSD), if I tried that I'd be all flipped around. The 315/35/17 race rubber in the back probably has something to do with the way the car acted, but whatever it was, it works awesome. I didn't notice any roughness or noise from it, but I can't hear much with my exhaust.

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