camber gauge

[mom'sZ]

I want to buy one of those camber gauges, like the longacres ones or something similar that the circle track suppliers sell. I've read up on them and am sure they'll work for my purposes. I'm not looking for advise as to how they work. What I want to know is, they sell a number of different adapters for attaching it to the hubs / wheels. I need to use it on the front and back of my z. The suspension uses stock hubs ect. Some seem to have a magnetic base that sticks to the hub? another choice is a 'dunlop' style that seems to attach to the edge of the rim (and claims to be universal). Does anybody have experience with these and knows which style adapter would work best for a Zcar?

[cygnusx1]

This is not an answer to your question but what I use is a piece of straight steel, a magnetic level, and a measuring scale. Hold the steel against the rim edges, then pull the top away from the rim until the level shows, level. Measure the gap between the steel bar and the rim. Calculated the angle using trig. (Autocad in my case). It is cheap, quick, and accurate.

[mom'sZ]

cygnusx1: thanks for the advise, I also have a method I currently use which is similar (straight edge, angle finder ect.) BTW I use acad at work as well, what kind of design work do you do?

Also group: we all know how to calculate caster from camber by turning the wheels an equal amount in both directions. But how to check caster on the rear wheels?

[cygnusx1]

I was a packaging and automation machine designer and project engineer for 10 years. Now I design the packaging itself. AutoCAD and Solidworks are my tools.

[JMortensen]

I don't think the magnetic hub style works very well on our Z's. Its been many years since I've held one, but I think they stick to the hub right where the dust seals goes on, and I don't think that surface is very true. I could be wrong, but that's what I seem to remember.

 

I have the bubble style gauge and it's not the most accurate. Biggest problem is that you need a completely flat floor to measure it. Also, I had an engineer measure my caster with the turning the wheels and finding the camber then doing the math to come up with the caster. This was the guy who built my TC rods, and he tried to set caster at 7 degrees when he put them on the car. He was off more than 3 degrees, and they ended up at about 4 degrees. You really need slip plates to accurately measure the amount you turn the wheel to get the caster measurement accurate in my opinion. I think that's where he failed.

 

Measuring the camber angle on the tire with a square seems to be the best way to do it barring an actual trip to a real alignment machine. Even then, some alignment machines are better than others, so the square and the trig might just be more accurate all the time.

[mom'sZ]

I don't think the magnetic hub style works very well on our Z's. Its been many years since I've held one, but I think they stick to the hub right where the dust seals goes on, and I don't think that surface is very true.

That's how it appears to me as well Jon. And I agree, I don't know how that could work very well.

I have the bubble style gauge and it's not the most accurate

They make them digital now as well

Biggest problem is that you need a completely flat floor to measure it

I have a spot marked on the garage floor that is pretty level, better then most.

You really need slip plates to accurately measure the amount you turn the wheel to get the caster measurement accurate in my opinion.

buying some of those isn't out of the question. I've seen a lot of different kinds of alignment tools. lazer alignment tools, one that hangs from the car and claims to work even on non-level surfaces.

I've done string, tape measure, straight edge, angle finder type alignments and later brought it to a shop, had them put it on the rack and was amazed how close I got in the garage. Close enough that what alignment they did do was 'splitting hairs' certainly close enough for my purposes. I really just think the camber gauge would just be easier / faster. Maybe the 'dunlop' style one would work better. I'll see if I can find a link or pic

[mom'sZ]

here's a link to an outfit that sells a contraption that hangs on the car to do toe. looks kind of howky. They say the advantage is that the car can be rolled around and bounced to settle the suspension (a sound idea) If you scroll down a little though, there is a picture of what they call a smart camber, which looks very similar to the 'dunlop' style adapter for the bubble type gauges

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/alignment.htm

[JMortensen]

String setups in general are not hokey. I'm going to try to figure out a string setup myself. My problem is that I never really understood how you get the strings parallel to the centerline of the car. Once its done centered it should be fine especially if it bolts to the car but getting the string holder aligned is the part that still mystifies me. I'm not sold on that one that you linked to, because I don't understand you you center the contraption on the car with any kind of repeatable results.

 

I agree, that camber gauge does look like the rim style. I still don't think that that style of camber gauge has an advantage over a square though. If you ONLY want to find the camber in your garage, great. But what if you're at the track and you want to make an adjustment. Now suddenly the floor not being perfectly level is an issue. If you just wanted to do alignments on the Z, you could cut a square down so that it was the right height for your tires and then I'm sure you could put marks on the square corresponding to degrees of camber. Then you wouldn't need any trig at all, and it wouldn't rely so heavily on the ground being level.

[cygnusx1]

I once measured caster by sitting a bar across the strut tops that hung out past the fenders. Then I hung a string from the bar, down the sides, along the wheel and measured how far forward the hub was from the string. I then used trig to calculate the angle. This only measured the caster angle in ONE dimension, parallel to the car centerline. I am not sure if this is true caster. My garage floor happens to be perfectly level. It's not good when the snow melts off my winter car but good for alignments.

[zbloke]

The tool can be zero adjusted to a non level floor if required, its quite a good bit of kit I use one myself

 

As for centering the toe gauge, if you make sure the distances from the string are equal side to side for the front and rear wheels, although you could end up with front or rear being greater or less than the other due to the track measurment being different, the strings are square around the car

 

Tim

[Nismo280zEd]

so the best way to do camber yourself is some angle iron and a level and or protractor?

[260DET]

Reviving this topic, the Fastrax camber caster gauge/gage looks like it would do an accurate job, plus there is an optional toe attachment. See it here

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/polpos.htm

 

Anyone used one on the front and rear of a Z? Seems to be good value.

[Mayolives]

Mom'sz............Looks like the smart camber tool could interfere with the fender or flares on our cars.

[260DET]

So no one has used the Fastrax gauge? I'm seriously thinking of getting one.

[tube80z]

I've used something similar and it was fine. I have a smart camber now that I'm very happy with.

 

Cary

[jerryb]

So no one has used the Fastrax gauge? I'm seriously thinking of getting one.

 

Did you get it? Im having the same dilema...fasttrax or smart camber:icon5: I need it for my Z and SX.....as both have adjustable suspension components and I would prefer to buy the tools once rather than pay to have someone do it for me..... I like the idea of digital vs bubble....??

 

edit..... then I found this.. http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/lr_78295.htm

 

edit 2...and now tis econo version http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ECONOMY-CASTER-and-CAMBER-GAUGE,2699.html

[jerryb]

String setups in general are not hokey. I'm going to try to figure out a string setup myself. My problem is that I never really understood how you get the strings parallel to the centerline of the car.

 

I found this on ebay.....seems like a decent string setup. I asked him to explian how to parallel the strings to the centerline of the car.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/String-Toe-Gauge-Wheel-Alignment-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ43989QQihZ004QQitemZ140203017977#ShippingPayment

[mark]

I use plumb bobs and lots of tape and string. This is where having a lift comes in handy. I hang plumb bobs from the front and rear of the rear control arms. I use that line and one of those cheap lazer tools to shoot a line under the car.

 

Tape and mark several places on the floor. Measure out from each side of the marked line and set up the string down each side of the car.

 

Now the string down the side of the car is parallel to at least the rear control arms. Hopefully the rest of the car is still somewhat straight and also parallel to the string.

 

I've also heard of guys using a known center point on the body of the car and measure out from there. I doubt the body on my car is square enough for that to be accurate.

 

Once the string is set, the hard part is done.

[cygnusx1]

A level surface, strings, tapes, bubble level, ruler, and some basic geometry math are all you need to get good home garage alignment. Special tools make it easier, but most of them can be home brewed.

 

 

SOH CAH TOA.

[tonycharger72]

This is an old thread but I was curious if anyone ever bought the Fastrax camber/caster/toe gauge and if so, what they thought of it?