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Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels

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Centerline F 16x8 -35 R 16x10 -32

I still need to smooth out the rear quarters.


Let me just say, I am really against the whole "Flush" movement, yet I saw your car and went DAMN. I really like that car. It looks great. Actually looks functional, and you don't have some bonkers stretch that looks dumb. :Thumbs up:

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^Looks AMAZING! Reverse Mesh are where it's at.


Needs to be just a TAD lower though, to barely tuck those tires.


Will go with 215/55 instead of 205/50 - and it will be a bit better too ;) now tires are a bit too small if compared to rear ones...


Thx by the way :)

Edited by doggydpit
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How are you guys getting your cars so low with decent ride quality? I have ground control coilovers 225f/250r spring rates and tokico struts on sectioned housings. When I had it at the ride height that looked good it rode like complete anus.

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I have GC-supplied coilover kit, sectioned struts w/ Tokico Illuminas w/ 225# front and 250# rear with spherical bearing camber plates front and rear, 1" swaybar up front and 3/4" swaybar in back with Poly bushings and my car rides awesome on the street. And I'm pretty much on the pavement. I do have some tire sidewall with 225/50/15s and 225/50/16 tires and that probably helps absorb some bumps. I may have to drive it over to SC when I get the LS2 done and see what you mean by diving like anus! -I wouldn't shy away from a 12-hour trip, it rides that good. Check your gland nuts (funny name for a car part) on your struts to make sure your struts are in nice and tight-I had one get loose once and it sounded like my car was coming apart. Fixed it with a pair of channel lock pliers in 5 minutes. I'm even planning to switch to aluminum offset bushings in the rear to de-camber a bit due to lowering. How are your door seals, could a loose door be banging around making noise? I've also had a loose tail pipe hitting the chassis which made the car really jar when hitting bumps. Now, in all reality, I can't drink coffee on the way to work in my car without wearing it, but I don't really understand why you don't like the way your car drives. When I want to drink coffee, I drive my truck. If you really want somebody to help you with your problem, PM me and try to really describe the problem well; maybe I can help?


PS-Wait, I just remembered something. When GC first supplied my kit, they gave me "progressive" rear springs (maybe fronts too-it has been 15 years). If you have them, you need to chunk them-they TOTALLY SUCKED and were always coil-bound. Coil bound springs totally negates the work you did to section your struts-coil bound means no travel (or maybe just not enought) due to one coil sitting on top of the one below it. Look under your car and see if there is any space between your individual coils with weight on the car. Have them send you non-progressive springs and that may totally cure your problem. If it has been too long to do an exchange, just buy new ones-they are pretty cheap as car parts go. GC swapped them at no charge and I mean it was like night and day. Whoever came up with the "progressive" spring concept was on some serious crack. While you are at it, check your remaining threads on your threaded collar. I am all the way at the top just to keep 4-5" of ground clearance due to the lost thickness of the stock top insulator, bump steer spacers, etc. Next time I buy springs, I will go 2" longer, but at the same spring rates as I currently have. That will allow me to bring the car up a bit more. Low cars kind of suck if you drive them very much-it looks cool, but gets old pretty quick, scraping all over town and tearing up your airdam, tire/wheel fitment becomes more critical, etc. Let me know what you find out.

And, we better finish this via PM (I should have just pm'd you) or we'll get acused of thread jacking.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Drag setup. Weld Draglite. FRONT: 15X4 with BFG 155/80/15 gives 4.5" tread width. REAR: 15X7 4.5" backspacing (4.75" backspacing would be better) with MT ET Drag 26X8.5X15 tires (8.5" tread width) with tubes and screws. Car has un-flared, un-rolled fenders, but has coil-overs with camber plates tilting the tires in a bit to clear the fenders safely. Hope to install AZC rear LCAs to pull bottom of tire under to reduce negative camber while maintaining fender clearance. That is going to have to be enough tire for me.

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you sure those aren't SP1's? Thanks for the pic! Now I need to find a pic of one with the SP3r's for comparison. The last thing I want to do is spend that much money one wheels and regret doing so.


Those are Work Meister wheels.

If you are looking at SSR Professor (17 inches and up) or you can go with the SSR Professor SP1R (16 inches and zero offset for perfect fitment)


The Work wheels will cost more than the SSR, over 2K for new.

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Even after you mount those with screws, you should leave the tape on them-kind of looks cool with the Ratsun scene that is taking off. They don't call it "racer tape" for nothing, and in the Army, we called it "100-mile and hour tape." It's like tape-on horsepower!



lol Ratsun isnt a scene its a community and we've been around for quite a while.


I agree with the tape though :lol: just for the sake of making people take a double take haha

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