Mikelly Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 (edited) Now if I could only make these work on the Zcar: $217 per set shipped... Who knew that Porsche parts could get so cheap! They're 350MM in diameter and 34MM thick. So today I'm going to change the oil on the GT3 and swap pads/rotors. It needs it badly... Then I'm going to instal the 140 amp alternator on the Zcar, along with the Prothane motor mounts... Then I'll start trying to lay out the wiring overhaul... Mike Edited July 14, 2012 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 This will get you close to the 350 mm on the z http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/85165-13-inch-floating-rotor-set-up-with-pics/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 That's what I'm running now, except in a fixed wilwood hat. It's the Mustang Cobra stuff... So far it works very well. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) So I got the prothane motor mounts installed this morning, after removing the exhaust... Riddle me this.. Why is it that I keep cooking collector gaskets? Pulled the plugs and looked at them and they didn't seem grey or white, so I know I'm not running lean. This is what's happening: The mounts installed: And I just bought this to deal with the gauge issues: http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/FS-'Dash/Data%20Logger'-0.aspx Guy on Racingjunk had one un-opened for about $300 less than they retail for... Mike Edited July 15, 2012 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Exhaust flange warped from over tightening????? Can you put a straight edge on it? Is copper perhaps more heat resistant?? Do you have a flex section in exhaust to reduce vibration? I'm watching to see what you learn. I am running aluminum gaskets with stainless bolts and the bolts need tightening regularly....I have a long section of unsupported tubing after the collector with no flex section.... Edited July 15, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Mike, I agree with RebekahsZ - you might try a copper gasket - I've had good luck with the thin ones with a bead. And yeah, make sure those flanges are flat. Note that a non-flat gasket (like the beaded ones) will cause a too-thin flange to bend out of flat when heat and tight bolts are combined. @RebekahsZ: I used to use Stainless bolts here and that galled together. Even high temp anti-seize was not a sure bet to keep that from happening. I went to Grade 5 bolts and brass nuts and this worked well (with high-temp anti-seize). But they still come a bit loose. Split lock washers work for a while, but the heat takes the spring away from them. The OE's use actual springs under the nuts in some applications to keep things tight. I've never gone that far. Edited July 15, 2012 by pparaska Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 I'll pm you with follow up questions. I don't want to thread jack on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 Well I'm going to attempt to address this issue by installing some 2.516 inch diameter high temp ceramic donut gaskets. We'll bevel the pipes to match the 30-45 degree angle of the donut and run some longer bolts with springs. I'm hoping this will resolve the issue. Stopped at my local speed shop yesterday and Gary the old timer there gave me some tangs to weld onto the setup to add "bolting points" if I choose to. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 I've had good success using stage 8 fastners. I have lost a few of the c clips before but overall they have worked great. Google stage 8 fastners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Well I'm going to attempt to address this issue by installing some 2.516 inch diameter high temp ceramic donut gaskets. We'll bevel the pipes to match the 30-45 degree angle of the donut and run some longer bolts with springs. I'm hoping this will resolve the issue. Stopped at my local speed shop yesterday and Gary the old timer there gave me some tangs to weld onto the setup to add "bolting points" if I choose to. Mike Mike: Keep up the GOOD work. Learning valuable advice from reading these posts. Specifically, bolts seizing at the exhaust collector flange. I spot welded clinched self locking nuts to the upper portion of the header exhaust flange. WRONG! Need to run a tap one each of the self locking nuts to remove self locking attribute. Also need High Temp Anti Seize compound on the bolts which thread up from the bottom into the nuts on top. You guys keep the details coming as there are MANY lessons to be learned from what you post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Addressed a number of the issues over the last couple days. The exhaust is back on the car. Hopefully it'll not cause issues again, but who knows. I'm awaiting the touch screen display for the FAST dash, but everything else is done on my shortlist except for the wiring. As of now, I'm ditching the wipers, turn signal and light stalk., We're going to ditch a lot of wiring and a lot of Stuff" not required. This coming week will be a "big" week for changed to the car. I hope to have it at VIR August 27-28! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Got some work accomplished this afternoon... Removed the dash to find a rats nest... Removed this: I'm going to make a new dash that will be smaller, and will install this: First I'm going to have to clean up the wiring and make some sense of it all... Lots of work ahead of me! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Looks like a boy wire spool and a girl wire had lots of fun in your interior. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I would think the girl would be the spool. and my wire is more of a hose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 All I know is this illustrates when you install a wiring harness in a caged car, and then "add" things over "time". What was I thinking... So kids, we're getting rid of the column stalk all together, no more turn signals/wipers/lights. That fuse block and wiring is going up for sale, and we're going to wire in only circuits for the following: FAST EFI Computer - two 12V constant and one 30Amp Circuit MSD Digital 6 - on 12v constant and one 30Amp Circuit MSD Coil - one 15Amp Circuit Accusump - one 20Amp Circuit Fuel Gauge - one 10Amp Circuit Brake lights - one 10Amp Circuit Elec fan - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant Fuel pump - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant Helmeet Blower - one 20Amp Circuit Cool suit - one 25Amp Circuit The goal: We will NOT have a hodgepodge of wiring dangling under the dash anymore. We will be able to trace and troubleshoot circuits at the track without issue. We will not be required to be contortionists to get access to said circuits. Gonna be a long two weeks... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 We will NOT have a hodgepodge of wiring dangling under the dash anymore. We will be able to trace and troubleshoot circuits at the track without issue. We will not be required to be contortionists to get access to said circuits. Good deal Mike. I'm picking up a 25ft/25pin serial printer cable (different colors 16gauge around $10-$12) to re-run my SDS behind the seat and have runs for constant 12v from the starter, keyed 12v all with inline fuse and dedicated ground from a distro block. Anything outside of the cockpit will be wrapped in Raychem DR-25 Heat Shrink Tubing and Nomex fireproof braided sleeving. You might want to add an extra run to say the fuel pump just in case. I plan on doing it right for the last time.. Where's Thomas is he partaking?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 I'm currently trying to make a love connection between Tommy and Jim on the red Zcar. Haven't broached the subject of wiring the Zcar up yet... Still need to get over to his place and get him to help me section some front struts. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Making progress... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Addressed a number of the issues over the last couple days. The exhaust is back on the car. Hopefully it'll not cause issues again, but who knows. I'm awaiting the touch screen display for the FAST dash, but everything else is done on my shortlist except for the wiring. As of now, I'm ditching the wipers, turn signal and light stalk., We're going to ditch a lot of wiring and a lot of Stuff" not required. This coming week will be a "big" week for changed to the car. I hope to have it at VIR August 27-28! Mike Now your talkin. Get rid of all the stuff you dont use anyway. I was about ready to order a set of H2O slicks and it dawned on me. I dont drive my car on track in the rain. First and formost...........I cant afford to make a silly mistake in the wet and it set me back $$$ I dont have. Car is too light and too powerful for those conditions. This is your track car and every ouce counts. I know guys who take out all the wiring and housing on the tail lights except for one light. Thats really all you need is one light the rest is just extra. The CF dash I made has worked out real well and I've been very happy with it. Whats going on at VIR at the end of August? Maybe I'll come up and visit. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobramatt Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 All the dash and re wiring is a pain in the ass but when your finished....................... Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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