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My 400+Hp Sleeping Beauty Refuses To Wake...Any Ideas Gurus? Cupla Pics too!


slownrusty

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Well Gang - Today was a nervous day....I spent most of the day doing little things to complete my 2year build on my L30ET. Went through and checked things many many times to ensure that all wiring and etc were done.

 

So long story short...the car cranks but refuses to start.

 

- I have lots of fuel 40+ psi at the rail

 

- My noid light verifies that the injectors plugs are receiving a signal

 

- I have a hot spark verified with another noid light in line with the plug wires

 

- At TDC the No. 1 cyl. cam lobes are at 2 O'Clock and 10 O'Clock also at 0 degrees timing the distributor rotor is pointing right at the No.1 spark plug wire. So that looks kosha

 

- I made sure that my TPS was calibrated for continuity

 

- I checked the hook-up for my AFM a few times

 

- I checked the grounds all appear OK, although my custom instake manifold does not have the 10mm bosses for the factory grounds, so I had to ground them to the bolts holding down the valve cover

 

- Battery is brand new

 

With my set-up I am not using some of the factory sensors like the cold start injector thingy that sits facing forward on the factory intake manifold.

 

Also what is weird is that I am *only* getting about 12-15psi of oil pressure when I am cranking, which has me VERY nervous, and trust me I have been cranking the bee-jezus out of this thing, so I know that the oil has made its rounds.

 

When I am cranking the car spits and coughs like it wants to start but just does not fire-up..so what do you guys think? I am S_T_U_M_P_E_D! :(

 

Here is what it looks like...pretty but far from functional!

332624879.jpg

 

332624870.jpg

 

Many thanks in advance - Yasin

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It looks like I am among the first to read, so I will throw out two things I noticed..

 

A: Spark

 

You verified with a noid light.. Did you pull the plugs to look at them? Check gap? Okay, well, my real suggestion was to pull a plug, connect it to the wire, ground out the electrode, and visually inspect the spark as it appears when it is in your combustion chamber. You never know.

 

B: Compression.

 

I don't even want to say any more here, I just had to point out that it was one of the basics you hadn't specifically verified in your post. I hope like hell this is a blind suggestion :)

 

Hope this helps, and good luck.

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Hi Gang - Thanks for chiming in on your thoughts and responses and compliments. I just emailed Ron Tyler and gave him the good news... I went back out to the garage and threw in a set of fresh plugs and BOOM it fired up perfectly..LOL!

 

Yes I am giddy like a school girl - understatement, or is that a school boy after his first kiss? So all is good, oil pressure went right to 70psi too :)

 

The car is very very loud without any exhaust on but it runs and I need to figure out how I am going to run my valve cover PCV vent and also the block vent, that's tomorrow, at least she runs and fires up!

 

More to come!

 

Best Regards - Yasin

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Hi Gang - Thanks for chiming in on your thoughts and responses and compliments. I just emailed Ron Tyler and gave him the good news... I went back out to the garage and threw in a set of fresh plugs and BOOM it fired up perfectly..LOL!

 

Looks like Ron Beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same. Fouled plugs are very common on first startups with an untested fresh calibration (this is a programmable EFI, right?). You might want to back off on your cold start enrichments a bit just to decrease the likelihood of it happening again.

 

btw' date=' the plugs are salvageable, if you have a propane torch and a bit of patience.

 

What has happend when you foul a plug is that the ceramic insulator around the center electrode has gotten a coating of conductive material (carbon), so your ignition coil's energy can just jump across that (much easier) instead of jumping the spark gap.

 

You can take a propane torch and burn the carbon coating off of the center insulator (the one 'inside' the plug, not the insulator that the plug boot goes on), but it takes a while, and you have to keep the insulator red hot until it looks white all the way around the center electrode again.[/quote']

__________________

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My oil pressure barely showed on my gauge, when I was cranking it over. I had to fire it before I saw any real climb in pressure.

 

congrats on getting it running.

 

Boy was I relieved that the oil pressure wnet up to 70psi in a hurry!! I was very worried about this. Many thanks!

 

nothin says lovin like a fresh set of BPR 6ES

 

LOL...no doubt!!

 

Looks like Ron Beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same. Fouled plugs are very common on first startups with an untested fresh calibration (this is a programmable EFI, right?). You might want to back off on your cold start enrichments a bit just to decrease the likelihood of it happening again.

 

Tim, I will be running a Haltech soon, but for the initial start-up and break-in I am running all factory OEM EFI just incase I had to trouble shoot it. Now that I know the engine starts and runs, a few months down the road the programmable EFI will go in, which I am looking forward to!

 

Motor looks kickass Yasin!!! :2thumbs:

 

Mike

 

Many thanks Mike! I greatly appreciate it.

 

Best regards - Yasin

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Yasin,

I had a similar problem when trying to fire my new engine after we installed it. I even had the factory Electromotive rep. on hand to help solve the mystery. Timing, fuel pressure, injectors firing, etc. were spot on. I finally suggested that we try feeding it some gas manually. Lo and behold it fired up and all was good! Yes, it sounds "off the wall", but it worked for me.

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awesome Yasin!!! glad she cranked for you!!!.. Setup looks amazing indeed.. Take some video for us poor folx still on jack stands..

 

Congrats on getting it started. I can't wait to hear how that beast runs!

 

Yasin,

I had a similar problem when trying to fire my new engine after we installed it. I even had the factory Electromotive rep. on hand to help solve the mystery. Timing, fuel pressure, injectors firing, etc. were spot on. I finally suggested that we try feeding it some gas manually. Lo and behold it fired up and all was good! Yes, it sounds "off the wall", but it worked for me.

 

VI-DE-O!!!VI-DE-O!!!VI-DE-O!!! :rockon:

 

Video coming sooooon guys, I promise, I have even been rehearsing my Big Phil Texas accent...LOL

 

I need a full day or so on it still to work out a few last minute things and then I will shoot the video I promise!

 

My best - Yasin

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Man, the chilling memories for me that you just brought back in this thread. I remember when mine did the same thing after a complete rebuild. Scared the livin bejezis out of me...just KNEW that something major was wrong. All it turned out to be was fuel fouled plugs in mine too. New set of plugs, and VROOM...

 

Took a second look at the pictures and noticed the distributor cap on the shock tower with the hose going under it and said "WTF?"

 

Good job on getting it going, now put all of those wires and hoses where they're supposed to be (HA, like you weren't planning on doing that). I'm still trying to find good ways to hide some of the crap in my engine bay...it seems to take forever, but that's only because I'm never satisfied.

 

Warren

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Video coming sooooon guys, I promise, I have even been rehearsing my Big Phil Texas accent...LOL

 

I need a full day or so on it still to work out a few last minute things and then I will shoot the video I promise!

 

My best - Yasin

 

ya gotta hit the word "camshaft" just right.... ;)

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