Gauging interest in EDIS mounting parts

[Derek]

I've had a couple of requests to buy some of the parts I made for my EDIS install

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140291

 

I'm trying to get a feel as to how much interest there is in purchasing the parts. I would sell everything individually. If there is enough interest I would also check into getting the 36-1 wheels laser cut as well.

 

Thanks

Derek

[Dan_Austin]

I am no where near ready, but I was also wondering if you'd consider making kits. Interest based on price of course.

 

I'd be looking for the sensor mount, wheel mount and coil mount.

If the wheel mount included a 36-1 wheel, great, but not required.

 

One thought on the wheel mount- If it had marks every 10 degrees,

it might aid tuning out a few degrees of error when phasing the

sensor/wheel

[nullbound]

I'm interested in these parts.

[Xnke]

Count me in for a trigger wheel mount. Since I'm using both the stock alt mounting position and the AC mounting bracket, I'll have to figure out where to mount the VR sensor, but that trigger wheel mount is slick.

[evildky]

I like the coil bracket but plan to use the dodge pack

and I mounted my edis wheel ont he back of the crank pulley and clocked to to pickup on the driver side between the 2 bolts onthe drivers side of the timing cover

[Derek]

I like the coil bracket but plan to use the dodge pack

and I mounted my edis wheel ont he back of the crank pulley and clocked to to pickup on the driver side between the 2 bolts onthe drivers side of the timing cover

 

Well you could always switch over to the Ford pack!. When I get every thing priced up a bracket for the Dodge might not be a problem.

 

I thought about trying to mount the wheel on the inside but opted for the adapter instead. This way you can do the installation without removing the balancer.

 

Derek

[highly]

Another upside to the wheel adapter is that you don't have to put an old damper through the fatigue of being on the lathe. I think the experience may have compromised mine as it has a low-speed wiggle that I don't remember being there before. The wheel runs perfectly true, though. I'd probably go for an adapter wheel so I don't have to abuse a replacement pulley when the time comes.

[JSM]

Can you make them that will work for a Tec-3 and a 60-2 wheel?

 

Sensor's like these:

[Derek]

Can you make them that will work for a Tec-3 and a 60-2 wheel?

 

Sensor's like these:

 

Yes but you can't afford it!

 

Seriously though it shouldn't be too big a deal to make a clamp that holds the sensor and mounts to my mount.

 

Do you have a wheel or would you need that as well?

 

Derek

 

 

(Hey that's post # 200 for me !!!)

[JSM]

If you can make a 60-2 wheel to that would be cool to. What are tolerances on EDIS (Sensor distance to wheel). The Tec is very close:

 

However,

Typically, the easiest place to mount a trigger wheel is

on the harmonic damper or pulley. If it is mounted on a damper, it should be mounted on

the inner hub rather than the outer dampening ring. The damper/pulley should be keyed

to the crankshaft so that it cannot spin on the crankshaft, as this would cause an ignition

timing error. When using a damper that has bolt-on pulleys, the trigger wheel can usually

be mounted between the pulleys and the damper. However, the accessory pulleys will

need to be shimmed out by 1/8” (the thickness of the trigger wheel). A variety of

application-specific trigger wheels are available.

To choose the proper size trigger wheel, find the diameter of the pulley or damper

on which the wheel is to be mounted. The trigger wheel diameter should be about ½”

larger than this diameter. It should also be noted that the trigger wheel should be at least

¼” from any moving magnetic pieces, such as bolts or other fasteners, to avoid

interference and false triggering. It is important that the trigger wheel be perfectly

concentric with the crankshaft centerline. To achieve concentricity, a shallow cut can be

machined in the front or rear face of the damper to create a centering ledge, and a hole

can be created in the trigger wheel to match the ledge diameter. The trigger wheel can

then be drilled to bolt it to the damper.

 

See table below to determine the tolerances that must be maintained when

mounting the trigger wheel. These tolerances may require the use of a lathe to true the

trigger wheel with the crankshaft centerline, which can be accomplished by putting the

entire damper/trigger wheel assembly on the lathe. Note that the maximum out-of-round

is the distance between the lowest and highest teeth and the crank sensor. That is, if a

feeler gauge is used between the sensor and the wheel to measure the out-of-round, the

reading between the lowest and highest teeth should not exceed the guidelines in the

table.

 

Crank Trigger Specifications

Trigger Wheel Size Air Gap Maximum Out-of-Round

2.5" 0.025" max 0.002"

3.5" 0.035" max 0.003"

5" 0.050" max 0.005"

6" 0.060" max 0.006"

7.25" 0.070” max 0.007"

8.25" 0.080” max 0.008"

[Derek]

If you can make a 60-2 wheel to that would be cool to. What are tolerances on EDIS (Sensor distance to wheel). The Tec is very close:

 

Crank Trigger Specifications

Trigger Wheel Size Air Gap Maximum Out-of-Round

2.5" 0.025" max 0.002"

3.5" 0.035" max 0.003"

5" 0.050" max 0.005"

6" 0.060" max 0.006"

7.25" 0.070†max 0.007"

8.25" 0.080†max 0.008"

 

 

Well the beauty (warning sales pitch ahead) of my adapter is that it's really true. The crank bolt is what it is indexed off of and I machine the step for the wheel and the bore for the bolt in one op. I'm having the wheels laser cut but then I'm finish boring the centers concentric to outside diameter.

 

You see we take the guess work out out your edis installation allowing you time to pursue a life of meaningful fulfillment.... or sit around and drink beer.

 

Derek

[SidWell]

If I had not already spent countless hours first putting a 36-1 timing wheel on the back side of the dampner, then moved it to the front and put the sensor next to the alternator but could not build a strong enough mount so I relocated it to the A/C side and still had a wobbly mount, so I got an A/C mounting bracket from a ZX with the two bolts in the front, mixed and matched the tensioner bracket to make the A/C work and then built two different versions of a VR sensor mount, I would certainly be interested in one of your mounts.

[Derek]

If I had not already spent countless hours first putting a 36-1 timing wheel on the back side of the dampner, then moved it to the front and put the sensor next to the alternator but could not build a strong enough mount so I relocated it to the A/C side and still had a wobbly mount, so I got an A/C mounting bracket from a ZX with the two bolts in the front, mixed and matched the tensioner bracket to make the A/C work and then built two different versions of a VR sensor mount, I would certainly be interested in one of your mounts.

 

Well if it's any consolation pictures of your hub adapter is what got me going in that direction so I thank you for that!

 

Derek

[Dan_Austin]

One quick question prompted by Xnke's post. The photos in the other thread suggest that you alternator is in the stock position and the

pickup mount does not interfere with it. Is that the case, or would

the alternator need to be relocated?

[evildky]

the dodge coil pack allows you to use regular plug wires, thats why so many of us run them, easier than getting the special ford plug wires

[Derek]

Another upside to the wheel adapter is that you don't have to put an old damper through the fatigue of being on the lathe. I think the experience may have compromised mine as it has a low-speed wiggle that I don't remember being there before. The wheel runs perfectly true, though. I'd probably go for an adapter wheel so I don't have to abuse a replacement pulley when the time comes.

 

Being able to switch dampers without machining was definitely on my mind.

 

One quick question prompted by Xnke's post. The photos in the other thread suggest that you alternator is in the stock position and the

pickup mount does not interfere with it. Is that the case, or would

the alternator need to be relocated?

 

It's a Maxima alternator but it's mounted in the stock position. There's enough clearance where I can still remove the belt without any problems.

 

the dodge coil pack allows you to use regular plug wires, thats why so many of us run them, easier than getting the special ford plug wires

 

I bought the edis stuff on ebay and it included the coil. originally I was going to switch out to the Dodge but started reading how important it was to run good wires with Megasquirt. Magnecore kept poping up so I called them and they had the Ford ends. The wires cost me $97.00 including shipping and were custom legnth.

I really don't see any problem makind a bracket for the Dodge though. I'll just need someone to send me a coil.

 

 

Derek

[Nismo280zEd]

I like your parts but have already purchased a trigger wheel from DIYautotune.com. Depending on price I'd be interested in trigger mount and crank pulley bracket/wheel

 

Like I said... very depending on price. I like a clean setup but I already have 3/4 of the parts I need to finish up mine.

 

Can you send me a PM of a rough estimate of cost.

(I won't hold you to this price, just don't want to tell you I want one then turn away when I see the price)

 

-Ed

[gearheadstik]

I may be interested in the trigger and wheel mount... I also use the Chrysler coil pack.

[djbit]

Really cool! I would be very interested in the sensor mount and wheel mount. I also have the Dodge Coil pack and would be interested in a mount for it as well.

 

Maybe you can make the mount for both the Ford and Dodge coils to cover all the folks:)

 

Thanks!

[Derek]

Alright here's the deal.

I'm going to do a run of 4 wheel adapters and 4 sensor mounts. I'll keep track of my time and materials. I'll then base the price on my shop rate.

If they're too expensive then I'll keep 1 set and throw the rest up on ebay and let the market set the price and that will be the end of it. If the price is right and people want them then I'll continue to produce them.

 

Thanks

Derek