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HybridZ

It Works!


X64v

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Holy crap, my new distributorless ignition system freaking works. I'll update my build thread once I wash the engine bay, but for now I had to post something in all this excitement. There are soo many places for things to go wrong: bad crimps, crisscrossed wires, crank sensor not reading the holes in the flywheel, MegaSquirt not reading the sensor or pattern right, etc. etc. etc.

 

But it fired up and runs so smoothly. My set-up:

 

MSnS-E 029y4 code, MSI V3.0 board

Cherry GS100502 geartooth hall sensor

6-1 wheel pattern machined into flywheel

Stealth/3000GT coil packs

BIP373s bonded to the underside of the coil packs

Modified NGK plug wires

 

P1030861.jpg

 

P1030883.jpg

 

P1030885.jpg

 

This thread has no technical purpose, just to share the joy of something I've been working on for a while (and had many failed attempts in the past) finally come together well.

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I built a Megasquirt System using EDIS on a CA18DET, so I know how wonderful it is when everything comes together. I wanted to tell everyone. I think it is something to be proud of.

 

Congratulations on your success, now comes the other fun part, Tuning!

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Thanks guys! I knew it would work in theory, but having it actually fire up and run is just the greatest feeling ever. I keep staring at the brass core plug in the timing cover while the engine's running, thinking, "Wow, there's no distributor there. And it's freaking running."

 

This was cheap, too. Somewhere around $125 for everything. Including shipping, the major components were:

 

Sensor ($35) - Digikey

Coil Packs ($48) - eBay

BIP373 x3 ($27) - DIYAutoTune

 

I thought one of the complaints of a low tooth count wheel was timing inaccuracies, any comments?

 

No official comment yet since I only first fired up this new shortblock + ignition set up last night around midnight. While fine-tuning the trigger angle at idle it bounced around a tiny bit but not much at all, far less than my locked VR dizzy. I'll let you know what it does holding at 3krpm, and then once the motor's broken in, holding around 6.5krpm (probably videos of both, too).

 

Also, a trick I didn't show in my build thread was that I used the 4 IAC wires already in the DIYAutoTune harness. 3 for the coil outputs, one for +12v for the crank sensor. They have jumper pads right on the V3.0 board ready to go.

 

Edit: Here's a quick comparison with MegaLogViewer. VR dizzy rpm signal on top (in yellow), new crank trigger rpm signal on bottom (still yellow). Similar RPMs, same scale (0-2500rpm). The VR signal was at cruise on the road, the crank trigger signal was at a free rev, so I bet it'll be even more steady on the road.

 

versus.jpg

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I have been looking at the electromotive systems and have been turned off by the HEAFTY pricetag..... This might be an option for me. Good job........ I have a Turbo Tom set-up so I am concerned when the boost turns on how the timing will adjust......( I am a tard when it comes to this stuff anyway)

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I can definitely do a thorough write-up on the install. It'd be from the perspective of already having MS in the car running fuel only, or any other type of spark. I'll even be able to show how to make it work with the 240Z current-sensing tach, since mine is working great so far (yes, my original '73 is current-sensing, though it does not suffer from the rising needle at high ambient temps that the earlier tachs do).

 

I've got about 85 miles on the motor so far and I've not had one tach spike, not one dropped spark, not one blip. Smooth as silk and dead consistent. Holding the motor at 3k rpm free rev, the crank pulley marks are rock solid under the timing light, no bounce I can see with my eye. There was a noticable +/- ~1.5° bounce in the dizzy set up (welded mech/vac advance, so it was all gear slop).

 

I cannot wait to see the difference under full boost above 5k rpm. The rest of my set-up is almost identical power-wise to what it was before so it should be a decent comparison.

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Yery nice work and a simple but significant improvement, well done.

 

Any reason why it was not done off the ring gear teeth? I'm told that if the number of teeth is evenly divisible by the number of cylinders then the ring gear can be used. I was going to do that off the VG's ring gear but its all chrome moly so that won't work. Then again I have an aftermarket ECU.

 

Writeup would be great.

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Thanks for the compliments guys.

 

I was seriously considering using the ring gear teeth (120 count so it works) but in the end it came down to being easier to drill holes in the flywheel than to drill/tap a mounting hole in the bell housing of the tranny. Plus, this had to be done on a weekend for free, so machine shop work or extra tools beyond what I had were not options.

 

Looks like the demand for a write up is pretty high, so I'll make sure to document every single decision I made and every snag I hit. I have back-to-back exams tomorrow (I love college..) but it'll be written up this weekend for sure.

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