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Just finished s13 coilovers into s30


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280z strut tubes are about 1/8" thicker OD than the 240z strut tubes. So fitting coilovers on 280z struts in the manner presented in this thread will not work.

 

If you took the struts off of the 240z they should bolt up to the 280z with out problems, and vice versa.

 

Yep, I will do this, the parts will probably be cheaper than having the tubes machined. This will be done before summers end. I still have to fix my rust at least on the floors and bottom before I do any suspension work. I want to only take it all off once. I am going to primer the underside with a high quality primer and a rust stopper after that then I am going to bed line the underside of my car.

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If you took the struts off of the 240z they should bolt up to the 280z with out problems, and vice versa.

 

Before anyone does this, please search this site. A number of members have found out the hard way that the resulting rear ride height and loss of droop travel sucks.

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Before anyone does this, please search this site. A number of members have found out the hard way that the resulting rear ride height and loss of droop travel sucks.

 

That is not the idea here though. I would not be just putting the 240z tubes and 240z struts in. I would be using just the lower inch or so. I searched, don't get me wrong not trying to say you are wrong or say I don't want to listen to you because I am all knowing. I will listen to all advice and search some more things before I do this. If you are doing the coil over install. Then you should be able to adjust the height anyways to level out this issue. Does what I am saying make sense? The lower portions are the same basic deal. The overall length is shorter on a 240z and the 240z tubes are thinner. From what I understand its the 240z's shorter strut tubes that cause this droop. Eliminating the tubes and just adding the coil overs should make it work the same as if you were using a 280z lower portion and making the bore on the coil over larger. I am going to guess the 240z part is weaker because it is smaller. Which also would mean lighter but probably not enough to really count for anything unless you are building a serious race car. I hope what I said makes some sort of sense. I have tried to think about this. I actually spent like 2 hours searching everything. I wasn't even sure the 240z parts would bolt on a 280z. I could see you fitting the extra 1/8th inch in if you had a hydraulic press and did it very slowly. Then you would be leaving the potential for over stress on certain parts and possible cracking or improper fit. Welding would still be required obviously.

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I think Jon's intent wasn't so much towards you, but anyone who might be searching this thread in the future; preventing mis-information for the people who like to speed read threads, and just pick up random sentences here and there.

 

Sounds like you've got your information and a plan. I've searched the same topic and I've gathered the same conclusion. Shouldn't be a problem for your set up far as I can tell. Do work! haha

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I think Jon's intent wasn't so much towards you, but anyone who might be searching this thread in the future; preventing mis-information for the people who like to speed read threads, and just pick up random sentences here and there.

 

Sounds like you've got your information and a plan. I've searched the same topic and I've gathered the same conclusion. Shouldn't be a problem for your set up far as I can tell. Do work! haha

 

Will be done this summer. I want to at least fix my floors and hatch rust first, which seems to be the only MAJOR rust I have. I should take pictures of it all, the rust, and I mean all of it I can get to and have the capabilities of fixing, should be fixed before the school year end. Shortly after I get to Indiana I hope. I have some on the Drivers rocker, drivers lower QP, in the hatch area, and on the floors obviously. I got a feeling some is going to be harder to fix than I have anticipated after getting it down to what I have so far, but it must be done so I will just have to do what I can do. Coil overs will be next on the list. Like I said, I will do a full DIY write up. I get where your coming the what John said.

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What jon said was correct and if you look at the arizona z car coil overs either they have 2 separate sleeves for the 280 and the 240 and i think you mount them in different places on the rear strut tubes because of the difference in mounting locations with the 280z. I think you mount the coil over tubes higher on the strut tube before welding as to make up for the length of the top mount.

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The sheet metal strut tower in the rear of the 280Z is higher up in the body of the car then in the 240Z, the 280Z upper insulator is taller then the 240Z insulator, and the 280Z rear strut tubes are longer then the corresponding 240Z part. You must keep all this in mind when making your weld-in sleeves.

 

If you make the rear strut (or coilover or whatever you call it) tube too short the shock will top out, droop travel will stop, you'll lift wheel off the ground in a fast corner, and then start a big, lurid slide. It happens:

 

If we automatically shorten the strut to exactly fit the cartridge, we might actually shorten it too much. This leaves us without adequate rebound travel. Just in case this does not scare you, it should. I learned my lesson the hard way when I had the rear wheels pick off the ground while cresting a hill that had a slight turn to it. That made for a looooong full lock slide at 100 MPH!

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The sheet metal strut tower in the rear of the 280Z is higher up in the body of the car then in the 240Z, the 280Z upper insulator is taller then the 240Z insulator, and the 280Z rear strut tubes are longer then the corresponding 240Z part. You must keep all this in mind when making your weld-in sleeves.

 

If you make the rear strut (or coilover or whatever you call it) tube too short the shock will top out, droop travel will stop, you'll lift wheel off the ground in a fast corner, and then start a big, lurid slide. It happens:

 

Yes but if I just use the 240sx coil overs and the lower 240z parts it shouldn't really change anything from using 280z strut tubes because I will be cutting it down to the same length on the 280z parts as I would on the 240z parts to press the coil overs on. I would be using the upper 280z parts not 240z parts. If your saying this will not work then please explain in a little more detail. I think what you are saying is the 240z coil over sleeves are longer. That or you have to mount them up higher on the strut tubes. This would be in the event of you using them on a 240z though. What I am seeing is that the parts would work the same for a 280z as a 240z if I just use the 240z strut tubes and stuff on the lower. Then I use the 280z insulators/top hats. EDIT: I want to add that I am not trying to argue or anything. This is the way it makes sense to me. if there is something that doesn't make sense that is fine to be explained. Maybe I am not explaining my idea good enough. I just don't understand what you mean because from what I have got my idea should work.

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  • 1 month later...

For those looking for a mid price unit, I got off the phone with Stance USA today and they have developed a perch that fits Z's and their coilovers with availability in the next 8 weeks.

 

They also are willing to see the s13 set with 4 perches for the front but I was not quoted a price. I gave them my info and will have more info as it develops. Will be starting a separate thread as well.

 

Any word on the Stance perches? When I get the coilovers on my S30, I was figuring that I might as well go with some good coilovers. Stance is pretty much my #1 choice.

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  • 3 months later...

UPDATES FROM RECENT RESEARCH!

 

Stance DIY Weld-on Damper Adaptor

 

From what I was reading throughout the forums, I browsed the Stance website and noticed they now have a perch pair available for use with stance GR+ Series Dampers. Retail price is $229 vs the Serial Nine retail price of $260

Edited by 240Z_Master
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UPDATES FROM RECENT RESEARCH!

 

Stance DIY Weld-on Damper Adaptor

 

From what I was reading throughout the forums, I browsed the Stance website and noticed they now have a perch pair available for use with stance GR+ Series Dampers. Retail price is $229 vs the Serial Nine retail price of $260

 

Wow I'm behind the ball on this... ---> Hybrid-Z Stance yadda yadda

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  • 7 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Looking at the godspeeds id be inclined to get two pair of rears. Leaving the original mounts makes the instal look kind of rigged. By the looks of it, if you used two rear sets you could chop the bottoms off, debur the edges and you would have a clean tube with no "extra parts"

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I PM'd him and asked how it went and he says it's running perfect and that he just cut off the rears and ran them in the back and used the fronts like the install here. I'm waiting for EMusa supplies to get refreshed and then going to run those with the ZCC megan tubes, as I really can't get over the look of running the front lower mounts with the brackets on them and like the pnp of the ZCC stuff/

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I think it's the progressive improvement over stock...

 

Stock can't be adjustable up and down and up, camber not easily adjustable... Paying 800 plus another 300 for tubes to run megans or stance is out of the ballpark for most pocketbooks so the option of paying 500 or so for something and not having to buy the 300 tubes is a lesser alternative.

 

I don't think anyone is saying they are getting the best product, but many are saying, "It'll do".

 

For me, heck, if they are bad, I'll deal with them for a bit and when other project costs are done, I'll sell them to some 240sx guy for cheap and upgrade later. Heck, half the guys here are running Rotas and they are like the bastard child of the wheel world in tuner forums, so suspension should be able to go ghetto too!

Edited by TheMission
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