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Michael

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Michael last won the day on November 22 2006

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About Michael

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  1. Picking out a clutch

    Not to be the acerbic dissenter here, but sometimes it is more satisfying (not to mention, more illuminating) to get components that are of marginal robustness, but which are standard, common and well-researched... try them out, see if they happen to work, and then replace if/when failure happens. Too often, we overbuild; we overspend, end up for example with a clutch that's too heavy to be comfortable, with a "bulletproof" transmission with heavy/cumbersome gear-engagement, and so forth. I personally made this mistake, in going with a Doug Nash 4+1 transmission... "bulletproof" indeed, but a chore to shift, with gears that are too closely spaced. At least the clutch was a success... Centerforce dual-friction; Hayes 168-tooth aluminum flywheel - both from the Summit catalog. The one semi-unorthodox piece was the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing, obviating a clutch-fork or pivot point. In sum, consider the typical small-block build from the Summit or Jegs catalog. It should work fine.
  2. 240z vs 280z

    "Drifting from side to side" at highway speeds is often imputed to bad aerodynamics. In my view, this is partially correct. If the consumables in the suspension are worn, but only slightly worn, then with sedate driving on surface-streets, there may be no sensation of there being anything amiss. But at highway speeds, the steering might grow light, or otherwise twitchy. In steady straight-line driving on smooth pavement, there are presumably no strong transient forces - or than those having to do with wind. So, it's not the case that the aerodynamics are inherently bad (and least, not entirely), but rather, than wind-effects at higher speeds expose problems with the (front) suspension, that would not otherwise have been noticed. That at least was my own experience, driving a worn but serviceable 240z on the highway, now so many years ago.
  3. Here's adding my voice to the chorus advocating for having BOTH cars: the S30Z, and a much newer model for general driving-duty. With an older car, attaining a high level of performance almost invariably means sacrificing comfort, utility and the general niceties of care-free hopping into the vehicle, and just taking off. This, I think, is a worthwhile trade, for building something truly personalized and invigorating to drive. But especially as we get older, and come to rely on transportation for stodgy and utilitarian duties, the various compromises become less and less tenable. We're forced to relent and to avail ourselves of something newer. But why should that mean dispensing with the pride of decades' tinkering and achievement?
  4. Lets see your V8 in your Z.

    Yes. I'm too lazy/inept to include definitive links here, but I have a 454 with a few bits to improve it, a Doug Nash 5-speed and some chassis mods to accommodate the setup. Several others have big block Chevy engines with stock firewall/frame rails. About 15 years ago we had on this Forum a couple of really impressive bbc Datsun drag cars... full tube chassis, back-halved. With the ubiquity of the Gen-IV small block, the old-school big block has understandably become a rarity.
  5. It's bittersweet, Mike. On the one hand, congratulations on a successful sale. On the other hand, after 15 years (or wasn't it longer?) of your avid participation (and leadership) in this hobby/adventure/obsession, it's disheartening to see you conclude this path.
  6. Datsun 240z head choice

    There's a plethora of reviews online for Gen-1 SBC aftermarket heads; see Hot Rod and similar magazines, who regularly publish comparison-articles. A specific recommendation is not possible, because (1) aftermarket offerings change rapidly, and (2) it depends very much on one' particular application (displacement, desired rpm band, compression ratio and so forth). If completely lost, call Summit or Jegs, and they'll offer some verbal advice.
  7. The years roll on, and despite an ever-increasing proliferation of brake options, there remains tense debate on whether "stock is best, if well-maintained", or whether now in 2016 an upgrade is sensible. Like many of us, I've had a car sleeping for decades. If it awakes, it will need thorough overhaul of brakes - and if that's stock, it will be some form of rebuilt components. Towards that end, I keep wondering: is there an incrementally lighter and more aggressive variant on the stock 280Z front brakes? Does anyone make the stock casting of the brake-caliper, but in aluminum? Or perhaps another caliper that works with the stock rotors, without an adapter-bracket, but which offers more piston-capacity, and/or less weight? I say this because on the one hand, I'm leery of an ambitious brake-upgrade venture. But on the other hand, it seems to be timid and unimaginative to merely be replacing 40-year-old components with identical (but rebuilt) parts.
  8. Aesthetics aside, the appeal is that a 4-lug pattern is propagated into the webbing of the wheel. I'm not a structural engineer, but intuition suggests that such usage of a 4-pattern makes possible a lighter/stronger wheel, than if the lug-pattern were ignored (meaning, for example, a 5-spoke wheel in 4-lug pattern). Unfortunately this wheel does not appear on Rota's web site, http://www.rotawheels.com/wheels.php . A simpleminded Google search reveals an offering from Amazon, in 15x8, but unfortunately in the Miata lug spacing, 4x100mm: https://www.amazon.com/NEW-ROTA-TBT-15X8-PCD/dp/B01DB7M8R6 . Has anyone seen this wheel in 4x114.3? Or any specs on weight?
  9. Texis30O, at the risk of dragging this thread off topic, could you please provide a link where you describe your 5-lug setup (front and rear) enabling these wheels/tires to fit? I recall mention of it in the wheels/tires/suspension sub-forum, but the huge plethora of keyword search-hits makes it frustrating to find actionable information.
  10. Wheel clearance ??x9.5 +0 ?

    Apologies in advance if I'm making an obtuse or condemnatory point, but what is the advantage of mounting 245-series tires on 9.5" wheels? Would it not be more sensible to use narrower wheels for 245 tires, or perhaps to attempt wider tires for 9.5" wheels? Tirerack.com recommends 8"-9.5" wheels for 245/40-17, with something like 8.5" as standard. That being the case, if the objective is 245/40-17 wheels, might there not be an advantage in fitment (and lower rotating mass) in going with a narrower wheel?
  11. Time passes. The OP evidently sold his Z last year. The person to whom is ascribed above the mention of irritation, has recently passed away.
  12. That is pretty astonishing news! Wilmington is literally one zip code away from me. If anyone needs a staging-area or free lodging, let me know. Unfortunately I'll likely be on business-travel for part of that time, but something could presumably be worked out.
  13. Coilover Leveling Issues

    The car was resting on three points: the bottom of the differential housing, a point on the driver's side of the front cross-member, and a point on the passenger's side of the cross-member... correct? Was the floor level? Were the two front jackstands at equal height? If the answer is "yes" to both, then that's evidence (but not proof) that the unibody is in OK shape. First, I wanted to publicly compliment you on the aesthetic beauty of your suspension components - even if they're not level or not yet fully functional. Many of us armchair-critics can't sport something so elegant. Second, it may be the case that the McPherson struts themselves are uneven. On my car, the front axles (correct term?) were improperly aligned with respect to the strut housings... an OEM defect. The late John Coffey pointed out that this problem is fairly widespread. It took several junkyard outings to find a matching pair of front strut assemblies. Well, this may or may not be a culprit in the car-leveling issue, but it is suggestive that some other source of unevenness could reasonably be traced to the strut assemblies.
  14. Coilover Leveling Issues

    It is indeed. This site has become an austere and staid repository, rather than a discussion-group. But that's an issue beyond the scope of the present thread. Resuming the topic, perhaps it might be worthwhile to remove the McPherson struts from all four corners, stack them up alongside each other, and compare. There may be some obscure anomaly that mere under-car inspection can't detect. It may for example be possible that the rubber isolators atop of each strut-housing are broken, or mismatched, or that something else is mockingly dangling. There might have been mixing between 240Z and 280Z components.
  15. Nice wheels. Have these been successfully fitted to a S30? Z31-type front hubs/rotors? What about the rear? Wheel weight?
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