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Michael

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Michael last won the day on June 15

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About Michael

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  1. Post a photograph of the engine compartment. From this we can discern whether the original swap was the "JTR method" or the less advantageous non-setback one. If there's rust in the floorboards, almost certainly there is rust elsewhere, in nontrivial amounts. This may or may not require immediate attention, but it does merit jacking up the car (suitably supporting it!) and a thorough examination. Some rust, while annoying, is only cosmetic. This particular car evidently has a 5-lug rear conversion. Does it also have a solid rear-axle conversion? Such a conversion remains controversial even to this day... but properly done, it has its own appeal. What is the rear-axle ratio? If the transmission is a TH350, it won't have an overdrive gear, which is annoying on the highway. Lack of overdrive is, in my opinion, the main reason for why a "race car" is unpalatable on the street.... something to consider. Otherwise the standard routine is to examine and possibly refresh the engine. Do you have specs on the cam? The heads? The compression ratio? Have you done a compression-test? The standard tuning-approach applies, whether it's a Datsun or a Chevelle... lots of literature on that. BTW congratulations on the purchase! Aesthetically it looks aggressive, without being outright garish. Those fender-flairs nicely split the difference between too-much and not-enough. But I do wonder about the rear axle... the rear wheels aren't particularly wide, yet they protrude considerably outboard. Perhaps the axle is too wide? Could it be narrowed? 4-link or ladder-bar or something else?
  2. There is, if memory serves, a JTR book for the S10, just as there is for the Datsun Z. It presumably has the relevant information.
  3. Another issue is the primacy of class-rules. Some very intuitively appealing things - by my reckoning - may run afoul of class rules. One example is the business with the total included-angles in the main hoop. Must be < 180 deg? Consult the rule book. And on a similar subject: can the hoop be welded to the surrounding sheet-metal? If so, this ought to be of particular value in alleviating the aforementioned C-pillar stress concentration. We should probably move this thread to the brakes/suspension/chassis sub-forum.... mods???
  4. Welcome "back", Katman! For many of us, the problem is ostensibly a simple one.... after many years of hibernation or at most sporadic use, the Z finally gets a chance to stretch its legs. The engine runs, more or less. Things creak in the suspension, but it suspends, more or less. Even the headlights work. And the brakes? They worked in the driveway. Finally getting the car up to speed on the local rural road, I press the brakes, and... mush. I pump them, and yes, they sort-of work... but the car pulls hard to the left. One can feel a set of brakes (front left? rear right?) lock up and smoke... while another set feels like somebody greased the pad with bacon-fat. Then comes the question: what should I do? Those pads, remember, haven't been changed since the 1990s. Maybe even the 1980s. Do the calipers even work? The brake fluid is older than some of the members on this forum. So... should get refurbished stock parts from Autozone, bleed the brakes, and call it good? Maybe I should. That would be the economical thing to do. But for many people, it feels deficient, inadequate, simplistic. Technology has moved on! Progress!! And I should install parts that were already so-so almost 50 years ago??? Thus, the quandary. It's not about racetrack performance. It's about personal psychology.
  5. The thread cited in CalZ's post is indeed immensely helpful. Unfortunately, the principal link with photographs, http://s160.beta.photobucket.com/user/psanders240/library/BSR-260Z-IMSA, is now broken. The thread hasn't been updated in 3 years, since its main contributor (JohnC) died. The original thread is from 9 years ago. My own subjective belief is that the attempt to structurally strengthen the Z, while admirable and maybe eventually necessary, tends to derail (no pun intended) swap projects. Do the swap first, and get it running, even if the chassis is floppy and inappropriate for the aggressive amount of power. Also be mindful, as JohnC used to frequently observe, that suspension-loads are higher than drivetrain-loads. That is, chassis flex is a greater problem for a stock-powered Z driven in a racing situation, with stiff springs and aggressive turns, than in a Z with quadruple the power driven on the street (or in drag racing) with unmodified suspension. Also, if doing an aggressive engine/transmission/differential upgrade, almost invariably there will be metal cut, new metal welded and so forth. This means new points through which loads are passed. It also may mean that "conventional" approaches at strengthening the chassis can interfere with the swap-related mods. An example is the venerable "Ron Tyler differential mount", which was for the R200. Would it work for the R230? Probably not in "stock" form. So... fit the engine, do the swap, get it running, and THEN worry about alleviating chassis-flex. I speak from experience, because I did this backwards, worrying about the structure first. Yeah, it's rigid etc. And?... project has taken 20 years.
  6. If the objective is to reduce noise without introducing undue restrictions, a dual-exhaust (with proper crossover) is the better solution, provided that there's enough room to accommodate mufflers of sufficient capacity. The venerable David Vizzard has an excellent discussion on the topic, in his "how to build horsepower" books. One pitfall that's affected many of us, is that mufflers from the muscle-car-oriented aftermarket exhaust purveyors tend to be loud. One gathers that this is more for style than outright performance. Google-search reveals some options. One example is http://myshinycar.com/quietest-mufflers-market-v8-3inch-mufflers/ . This is more of a puff-piece than an objective article, but even so, its various links are worthy of consideration. There is on this site a plethora of threads journalizing member's cars' exhaust layout, but to my knowledge there has not been any systematic acoustic test.
  7. With a ZZ4 crate-engine (in the "JTR" position, or the "Scarab" position???) it is unlikely that the swap itself introduced a significant departure from stock weight distribution... some weight gain, yes,... but this should result in a more even settling of the car on its springs. If the back-end is significantly lower than the front, the likely culprits are (1) aftermarket tinkering, or (2) something really worn/damaged in the suspension. If the car is cosmetically pretty, structurally sound and gets fantastic acceleration, there's ample reason to tear into the suspension, to give the car the vitality of suspension that it deserves! So, the suggestion is to pull the rear (and eventually the front) struts, and perform the standard regimen of refreshment... new springs, new bushings, new shocks. This would also be a good time consider the intended use of the car... street driving, drag racing, road-racing, etc. The principal use would inform the choices for suspension-parts... lots of suggestions over in the suspension forum. And congratulations on a good-looking, hard-accelerating car!
  8. One gathers, at least anecdotally, that for a well-flowing modern aluminum radiator, fan-requirements (CFM across a given pressure-drop) are surprisingly low. The above-cited fan supposedly flows 3000 CFM, but across what pressure-drop? And at what oncoming flow speed (basically the driving-speed of the car)? The reason for my skepticism is that the label purports that the fan only draws 80 Watts. That's not even 7 amps. But if it works, it works. Back in the proverbial good-old-days, the default solution was the "universal fit" Flex-a-Lite "Black Magic" fan; something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-168?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-flex-a-lite&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7YblBRDFARIsAKkK-dIQeVohN8W2bXWd_eUn3Zd_7oQ4kn7sadbhZGekgV3KwmX1bVOABAgaAgnPEALw_wcB . It has about the same CFM and similar physical size, but is listed as drawing 19.5 amps (234 Watts). I can report good results with that fan, on a large-ish Griffin two-row aluminum radiator.
  9. Welcome back! What happened to the big-block car? Sold? Still running? This is the first time that I've seen a 5.3 short-block. To my neophyte eye, it looks like a superb candidate for some very aggressive overboring... like +0.100. Unfortunately, even a cursory internet search reveals that the 5.3 is evidently not friendly to large overbores. Oh well. Strange, isn't it, that there's such surfeit of 5.3s, but relatively fewer LS-series engines of larger displacement? I wonder why that is.
  10. Let me try with another analogy. Toyota has in recent years been campaigning a NASCAR "Camry". It's a beautiful machine! As with all NASCAR entrants, it has tube-chassis and RWD and a big pushrod V8. And so forth. I'd love to buy one, and yes, drive it on the street - registered as an, ahem, Camry. That's the direction that I'd like to go with a Z. Why then even tangle with a Z at all? Emotional connection, decades spent on it, personal feels of one or another kind, and the opportunity to register a maximum-effort track-only race car as a supposed street car. My locale in principle allows that - well, maybe not, but it may still be possible without outright committing a crime. At the very least there is no smog-check or equipment-inspection.
  11. Harsh crowd here! Having spent 20+ years tinkering with my Datsun, having it be my garage companion through several human relationships and countless too-human failures and foibles, I'm sentimentally attached to the machine. But it's not what I really want. It's my companion, yes - but not my dream. And this thread asked about dreams. The dream would be a truly iconic racing-car, that redefines the possibility of what's possible in vehicle-engineering. Short of that, the mini-dream would still be a foray and achievement far beyond anything that I've been able to do, or might ever likely be able to do. Thus, again, the term "dream". As to reacquainting ourselves with hardnosed realism, the "dream" is to merely sort out and to render reliable what I've already tried to do. The engine that I have currently installed has "potential" for some 500 hp (it is after all 461 cubic inches, with some top-shelf parts is semi-semblance of good order), though I doubt that it actually produces half as much. The brakes... occasionally work. The car is squirrelly, ill-tempered, rough, more of a white-knuckle facsimile of amusement than anything serious on the road. I dream of fixing that someday.
  12. * Full chromoly tube chassis (custom designed, verified with extensive finite-elements modeling) * Unequal A-arm suspension on all four corners, based on some blend between Miata and 5th/6th-gen Corvette (with suitable design and testing) * Carbon-fiber body panels affixed to tube chassis, after proper wind-tunnel development * LS7 (Chevy 4th-gen SBC) engine, twin turbo * TBD gearbox * Ford 9" differential and center-section, with suitable half-shafts and inboard brakes * Lexan windshield etc. * VIN from 1970 Datsun Z welded into firewall In other words, the only Datsun part of the car would be registration as a Datsun. It wouldn't even attempt to resemble at Datsun in its external lines, let alone internal components. Why not? Because there are too many compromises in building a "dream car" from the initial canvas. It's taken me 20+ years to figure that out.
  13. Miata.net itself admits that its search-function is subpar. Recommendation from the more venerable members there, is to search for a topic via Google, thereby finding the right Miata.net thread. For purposes of troubleshooting or getting advice on repairs or minor upgrades, it's fantastic. For things like V8 swaps into Miatas, the utility of the site is more suggestive than explicit. Then there's miataturbo.net. Rather sophomoric and dismissive attitude by veterans towards newbies, but the intent is noble: they're trying to keep the site technical and useful for rigorous instruction, rather than water-cooler blather. Much of their content leans toward electronics and tuning... probably of use to the turbo and fuel-injection-oriented people on HybridZ. And yes, that Manta is spectacular!
  14. This looks like a novelty. Based on the physical size and the gear ratios, it looks to be a direct competitor to the G-Force revision of the venerable T5 (https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp)... prices are similar. The G-Force version appears to have slightly higher torque/hp capacity. Let is know what you think of it!
  15. And now, 19. Canadian drinking age, eh?
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