LLave

MONZTER, I noticed the picture of the 3d model, did you do the whole thing in CAD? If so would you mind sharing the files with me? Being a cad guy in training I would love to take a look at the files. Thanks, Mike mllave@gmail.com

If you want to email me some dimensions I will draw it up for you. My email is mllave@gmail.com I can also get a quote for laser but on 1 or 2 pieces it wont be cheap. I would just cut them by hand with a grinder and a drill. It is slow but you can get good results if you take your time.

The heating element it's self is in the aftermarket heaters housing, which obviously was designed to handle the heat. The top portion of the vent after the heater does heat up a bit after some use but I don’t think it is any more than the stock heater on full blast. I am still debating adding some sort of temperature and fan speed control. It would be easy enough. I will sort that out once I get my interior back in place. I think you are right about the squirrel cage. I just don’t see the pan cake putting out the type of air flow I would like to see with the resistance of the ducts.

a bit off topic but has anyone tried spin techs?

A while back I said that I would post my solution for the cons of heater removal discussed in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113468 Anyway, love it, hate it, here it is! Let me start by saying this is not a full on heater replacement but more of an electric defroster and light duty heater. I do not think it would put out enough heat for you snow state guys. My primary concern was a defrosting function, being that I am in California and don’t need a whole lot of heat anyway. I started with 2 ceramic 12v heaters purchased from ebay (Like these-link). Which by the way, the internal fans are complete garbage. Then I cut up the heaters a bit, took out the fans, soldered in the wires (I didn’t like the connectors). After that I took the stock defroster ducts and cut the bottoms off. A little plastic cement here and there, some silicone to seal it all up and wallah. For air flow, I took the front off the stock heater box and filled the center tube with epoxy (needs a bit of bondo to be smooth). Then made an aluminum bracket that mounts to 2 of the original holes for the factory heater box. I believe the original heat ducts will reach the defroster vents just fine, if not I am just going to use some flex tubing form McMaster Carr. For a fan I am using a high out put 12v computer fan. The fan puts out plenty of volume but I am not sure it has the hp to deal with the back pressure. If it falls short I am going to use a squirrel cage blower, like this one (link), which should do the trick. The larger blower will tack on about a pound or 2. On the bench the whole system seems to work great, decent amount of air, and good temperature at the vent. It is also very light weight. Pics:

If steering speed is really a porblem why not get a howe quickener? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=HRE%2D5220&N=700+115&autoview=sku

ohhh now I understand. Thank you, Terry for taking the time to thoroughly explain the concept to me. Keep the good schooln' coming.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DOU%2DDEC300&N=700+115&autoview=sku A bit expensive but still cool!

My last set of "performance street" tires was Falken Azenis on an STi and I loved them. I got a set of 4 for $500. I also had some potenzas but I much preferred the azenis I would defiantly recommend them if you are looking for sticky street rubber.

Does the s13/s14 suspension really out perform the s30 susepnsion? From the looks of it, it can not be any lighter. What is the real performance andvantage besides hybrid-bling? Is it more adjustable?

Jon, Ok I have some more questions. In the picture above, the red arrows is a toe adjuster right? But couldn't you get the same effect by adjusting out the rod ends on end of the LCA (green)? Is there some benefit to the red adjuster? Maybe on car adjustability? Also what is the rod end with the blue arrow for? Sway bar? Earlier I had asked you about the quality of the stock car products mono ball. I wanted to share with you what little I know about mono balls. In the industrial world they are called spherical bearings and are commonly available (link) in all types of ratings. Many are lined with PTFE which is just Teflon. Here is some generic information from global spec:Link The 4x4 rock crawler guys have a bunch of really cool high angle joints. Although they don’t do anything at high speed the sure do put a TON of load on there joints. They commonly use extremely long links on tires in the 40"+ range and gear ratios in the 300:1 range. A few to take note of are: Johnny Joints Ballistics Fabrications rebuildable joint Also here is a pretty good review on some link joints by pirate4x4.com although they are a bit massive:eek: Joint Review :eek::eek:

WOW! Maybe I do need to reconsider a scatter shield

Cameron, I would love to see more pictures of your chassis. you can email me at mllave@gmail.com if you get a chance.

Better quality? What seems to be lesser about the stock car products monoballs? What brand do you think you will go with in the end?

I love the car, that is exactly what I want to do. What do you plan on doing with the floor in the pedal area? Do you think the frame rail sticking up could be in the way? Maybe a false floor? Keep the pictures coming! I would love to see more pictures.

ok, that gives me a ball park. I didn't want to turn this into an auction Sorry Nomad I am in Sonoma County, a ways north of you.

kind of a sutpid question but how much is this set up worth? F54 L28 of unknown millage P90 Head Complete and running pretty well with a 4-speed What would you pay for it?

I guess it would be best to put some sort of turn buckle in the center or fab an adjustable link to get maximum adjustability out of them. Is it necessary or beneficial to have much length adjustability in the TC rod? Or just mod them to add articulation and minimize stiction?

Thanks!

Ok, so maybe someone can enlighten me. What exactly are weight jacks and how do you install/build them?

Sweet mount, I think I will have to build one myself...

Sorry, it is defiantly not a full tube chassis. Lots of tube work but not a full chassis. For the amount of work and money put into the car he probably could have started with gt1 chassis or something of the sort. No doubt a bad ass ride. How about some air jacks in my Z?

What about a crack in the water jacket? That could have the same effect as a head gasket. I would definatly pressure test the cooling system. Pour in 3 bottles of stop leak, drink a 6 pack and call it fixed.

ahhh very true...

You may want to check this out, http://www.terrysjag.com/show/pic10.jpg