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Everything posted by Derek

  1. 2009 WRX drivetrain to 280z

    I think what project binky showed me the most was that you can fit stuff in the space pretty easily. Getting it all to work properly without killing you is the tough part. What good is all that effort if it handles like a mini van.
  2. Test (Ignore)

  3. This is all Tony D’s fault:) Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my DIY EFI manifold project http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head. Some history: I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109116-dohc-l6-was-somebody-looking-for-the-goerz-paeco-dohc-l6-head/?&gopid=1020596 Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought. Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began. The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20. I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against. I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids. Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders. I then pulled the solids together to create a single model. At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain. Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE. Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board. I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row. I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces. Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block. You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover. Here is the lower section with stock modified L6 components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution. Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head. Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount. Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000” will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now. After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling. Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube. There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it. Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing. Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head. Should make for an interesting conversation. Derek Oh and one more thing. What good would a thread about casting a head be without....... / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / An actual casting. We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with. Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right. As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can. Thanks for looking Derek EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog. http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/
  4. V3 is going on a tall deck 3.5L with a custom crank and pistons. Normally aspirated. Should be high 4's for horsepower.
  5. Since I'm planning on trying out VCT on my build I figured I'd better finalize the valving. For me it's alway a balance of (not necessarily in this order) function, manufacturing and style. On the VCT it's always function first since what's the point if it looks better than it works. I knew what valve I wanted to use ( manufacturing) and where it needed to go (function) but not how to make it work ( manufacturing ) and not have it be butt ugly (style). I picked the valve I did because of the fact it came with it's own manifold. This makes manufacturing a lot easier since I don't have to do any precision boring. Since it's an open pressure (bleed) circuit believe I need to locate the valve as close to the cam phaser as possible to try and minimize the response lag. I also have to deliver a pretty good volume of oil at times where a fast response is necessary. I mapped out the valve with the 4 circuits. Oil in, 2 drains, advanced and retard. The valve is a spring return and defaults to retarded cam position. Retarded seems to be the default for the phaser as well. Which makes sense. Lets start with the fact that I'm not crazy style wise about hanging this valve off of the front of the timing cover. But it's the closest I can get it to the phaser and still be able to plumb it. Here is a shot of the final plumbing. Red is oil in. Light blue are the drains. brown is retard and purple is advance. Since I didn't want the valve there to begin with you can imagine how I felt when I finally gave in to the fact that I needed a .625" thick manifold block to handle all the cross drilling. I tried a bunch of scenarios but it would have added a ton of time to the machining because of doing that kind of work on a short production run casting is tough. I also had to flip the valve 180 from my original position to get the advance and retard ports to match the head. It's all about compromises in life:) Derek:
  6. Megasquirt grounding

    Shielded wire and single point grounding will be your friend.
  7. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Just a heads up the last set have speaker panels have been claimed. Thanks everyone for participating.
  8. Project Binkey

    So I posted this in another thread but figured I should put it here. They are doing a AWD conversion on a Mini Cooper. The fab work is really amazing. The video series is entertaining and really filled with a ton of great ideas. Derek
  9. Family Portrait. V1 V2 V3 I snapped this before I shipped V3 to Rebello and V2 went for a visit to it's owner. Probably (hopefully) the last time they will be all together. My feeble attempt at an art shot Things move pretty quick around these parts:)
  10. Another Dash Restoration

    I went the patch method as well and like others it just cracks in a new spot. Here is a pretty long how to on bonding a dash cap to my dash. It's been over a year and up until I trashed the head it was sitting outside daily in the florida heat. There are no signs of delimitation. Not the cheapest rout but if you do it right it's probably the last time you will need to do it. Derek http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125411-advanced-dash-recover-project/
  11. Mr Monkey you really need to pay better attention. Post #1116 clearly shows VCT being implemented. You are receiving 1 demerit Here is one of the pics to make it easier
  12. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Yes it is. Pm me when you donate and I'll get ahold of Dan. Patience may be in order though since there seems to be some lag between the donation and it actually posting. Thanks for supporting!
  13. A mopared DATSUN

    Geez Paul you haven't posted since 2015 and this is all we get:)
  14. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    I think the throttle bodies with the built in bungs are the way to go if you already have a DCOE manifold. For me at the time the kit was appealing because I knew I wouldn't be constrained design wise. Now if I was going to do it all over again....Heritage Throttle Body all the way. That is as long as they get around to doing it in 48mm like they said.
  15. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    When you add up all of the stuff in the kit purchasing them piecemeal the price goes up quite a bit. Now if you are going to discard some of the parts like linkage then it makes better sense to buy individual. Also the ones you linked to have a built in injector bung. Which is a plus if you want it. The kit I got requires bungs in the manifold which is what I wanted.
  16. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    I'm happy with mine for sure. One of the butterflies is slightly off center and it has a little stick-age problem if you run closed blade idle bypass but if you crack the blades for your idle it's not a problem. The outer edges of the bodies were sharp but that was fine as I just hit them with a deburing tool. The kit had everything I needed to get it working. I did manage to knock one of the velocity stacks off of its base but it snapped right back on and never was a problem again. I had about 6000 miles on them before my head $hit the bed. I think for the money they are the best deal out there.
  17. I'm running the Melling M111. I did some volume tests and was pretty satisfied with it's output. No hard numbers just testing when I was initially setting up my DOHC head. Derek
  18. Affordable ITB's anyone.

    Hey those look familiar.
  19. You can post the pics directly here if you want. That way you don't have to go through this dance every time a hosting service decides to cash in.
  20. Do you know if these have metal outer rings? It seems like some that I have seen are chromed plastic.
  21. Putting the finishing touches on V3. I decided to put the head back in the mill to do more work to the face. This is no easy task because I have to hang the head off of the table and rack the mill over. Originally I was going to put the sealing o-rings in the sub plates. I realized that this would make it really difficult for someone with a manual mill to make new plates. I also determined that the idler sub plate was going to be around 6mm thick. This wasn't going to be enough meat for the bolt so I made a pocket in the head so that the plate could be thicker in that spot. The oval holes are oil scuppers. Oh look a pile of speaker panels on the floor:) I had to offset the bolt holes on the idler to miss an oil passage. I'm so happy with the sub plates that V2 will be going back in the mill for a modification. Thanks Derek
  22. Since I get a ton of traffic on this thread I'm reaching out to HybridZ members. Dan is having trouble funding the site due to diminishing ad revenue. There is a funding drive going on here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127731-hybridz-may-be-shutting-down/ I have donated 5 sets of speaker panels with 100% of the sales going to HybridZ. Two sets are gone so you better hurry:) No need to comment here just follow the link and donate. Thanks Derek
  23. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    I talked to Dan and I'm donating 5 sets of kick panel speaker pods to the cause. Either low profile for the 240 for $100.00 or the 280 panels for $125.00. 100% of the money will go to HybridZ. I'll cover shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 states. Post here your pledge and Dan will let me know you paid. I'll pm you for shipping info. Dig deep people. That's a whole lot better than a tote bag Edit: All the panels have been claimed. Thanks for participating.
  24. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    This really sucks for sure. I think if you publish the dollar amount you need we can quickly see if it viable to do a donation drive. I have absolutely no clue what kind of money these sites cost to run. Derek
  25. Putting the finishing touches on V3 before it heads out to Rebellos. Decided since there isn't a head on my car now would be a good time the check the hood clearance with the higher valve cover. And....It fits Running a tall deck will probably require a low profile oil cap. Sniff sniff....I wish it was mine:) Kind of looks like it belongs in there. Derek