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Everything posted by Derek

  1. This is all Tony D’s fault:) Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my DIY EFI manifold project http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head. Some history: I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109116-dohc-l6-was-somebody-looking-for-the-goerz-paeco-dohc-l6-head/?&gopid=1020596 Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought. Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began. The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20. I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against. I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids. Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders. I then pulled the solids together to create a single model. At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain. Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE. Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board. I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row. I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces. Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block. You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover. Here is the lower section with stock modified L6 components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution. Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head. Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount. Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000” will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now. After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling. Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube. There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it. Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing. Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head. Should make for an interesting conversation. Derek Oh and one more thing. What good would a thread about casting a head be without....... / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / An actual casting. We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with. Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right. As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can. Thanks for looking Derek EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog. http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/
  2. That second video captures the sound better than anything I've done. He used a Gopro 7 and although the video is washed out the audio is really good. It is the most accurate capture so far. I've been using my iphone and even with external microphones it never quite got the right sound.
  3. I am in envy of your car. Or at the very least your engine compartment:)
  4. SN005 posted this on Church of L group on face book. He's happy:)
  5. Derek

    EDIS Setup for 280z

    Shameless plug. EDIS Kit
  6. I wonder if that was to increase runner length or packaging issues.
  7. Hi Duffy That is probably the longest the manifolds can be with the engine tilted that direction.
  8. Realized I never posted this pic of SN005. The Ferrea rockers look amazing. Jenvey 48mm and a Megasquirt setup from Linfert Performance.
  9. Thanks. Yea the S7 looks so nice. The 8620 looked great with the copper plating but not so great after spending time in hot oil. The best part about the S7 is it's through hardened so as long as there is enough base circle you can regrind it.
  10. I'll do COP when my $200.00 Magnecor wires wear out. And then only if they look like plug wires:)
  11. Making progress. Almost at the point where I can test the oil system. Front covers on. Internal lines finished. Externals as well. Getting closer! Hopefully Monday I can start testing the oil volume/pressures.
  12. Looks like I will need to cut valve reliefs in my test motor for the KN20-VCT. The pistons are ITM RY6134-040 flat tops with no relief cut. I'm trying to find out how deep I can go before I compromise the integrity of the piston. ITM in California has no data. Thanks Derek
  13. Derek

    ITM piston valve relief depth

    Thanks for the info. I ended up going .240" at the deepest section of the intake. There was .440" of meat in that area. The valves are angled at 15 degrees so the depth lessens very quickly. The problem I'm going to have is there isn't enough piston diameter at 87mm for there to be a decent amount of material. I imagine everyone that runs one of these heads will at least have 88MM or better bores and probably custom pistons.
  14. Thanks. The zig zag lets you adjust the length of the line for final tweaking. That one was a little more pronounced than I would have liked but it's hidden so I left it. Even a single bend will give you some options.
  15. Exterior hard lines finished. Got everything fabed up. Very happy with the results. I added a sandwich adapter in order to be able to get more oil for the VCT. The oil pressure port was fine for the cam oil feeds but I felt it would not keep up with the VCT. I moved everything over to the sandwich plate. The oil pressure switches are still on the oil pressure port. Rear oil feed. Hard lines are a ton of effort but for me well worth it.
  16. Hi Tioga I may give that a try and see how it looks. I really like the wires in the front but then again I never tried them running towards the back. It's pretty crowded back there with the injection hard lines.
  17. VCT Plumbing Got the hardlines mostly done for the intake phaser control. Went well just tedious and time consuming. The bottom two lines are advance and retard and the top two lines are returns. The center is the feed. They are 5/16 OD which gives me an ID that closely matches the Honda circuit. It started off easy and then I remembered that an alternator needed to sit in there. That made things a little more interesting. The bulkhead fittings worked out great. I chose to use soft aluminum tubing for the interior lines. I knew routing them was going to be a bitch and I wasn’t wrong. Looks a little rough but it will work. Non of the fittings are compressed yet. I’ll lock everything down during the final assembly and then tweak everything so they have clearance. Feeding through the caps turned out to be a better way to go than through the tower bases. I had to redesign the EDIS coil bracket since the valve was now in the way. It’s not as hidden as it used to be but when the throttle bodies and stacks are on it should be buried pretty well. I’m super glad I went this route with the VCT valve. The look of it is exactly what I wanted and he hard lines fit the whole theme of the build. Lots happening over the next few weeks as I try and finish it up and get it back in the car.
  18. Derek

    3.0L with L28 rods?

    Wow that looks great. There is a lot going on in that engine bay.
  19. I cut them in the mill. It's a bit of a pain when doing single pieces since it's not worth making a fixture. I hold the stock in a vice but the jaws need to be longer than the cut out or things get ugly when your doing the outline and the setup suddenly looses is grip on the material.
  20. Derek

    3.0L with L28 rods?

    Did you sonic test It? Hopefully working on my stroker soon and trying to make some decisions. I was going to go for 89mm.
  21. VCT bits and pieces. Trying to get all all the incidental parts done so that when I get my head back from Xtreme I can concentrate on the final push. I’m locating the VCT valve in a different position than I had originally planed. I was unable to plumb it the way I wanted and that forced me to look at other options. I always hated the idea of hanging the valve off of the front of the timing cover. The control circuit is a little longer but I’m willing to take a chance for the sake of better looks. Original 3D design: Finished product: It will hang below intake #1 and will be mostly out of sight. Made the CPS mount for the back of the valve cover. This required a pretty major rework of the fuel distribution block and a new mounting bracket. I got really lucky with the block in that I didn’t need to start from scratch. Tight fit! It only took two versions of the CPS plate and fuel block brackets and one version of the VCT valve bracket. I must be getting the hang of this:) Things should be picking up speed since the only thing holding me up is having the head back.
  22. Derek

    3.0L with L28 rods?

    88mm bore L28 is 2.883L according to the OZDAT calculator. You would have to take it to 90MM to get to 3.0 and at that point the walls would probably be a little on the thin side.