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Everything posted by Derek

  1. This is all Tony D’s fault:) Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my DIY EFI manifold project http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ Well now I’m tackling a DOHC head. Some history: I get a PM from Tony D in September of 2012 about the Goerz-Paeco DOHC L6 Head coming up for air.http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109116-dohc-l6-was-somebody-looking-for-the-goerz-paeco-dohc-l6-head/?&gopid=1020596 Which led to a brief discussion about what would be involved in producing a head. And that was the end of it... Or so you thought. Tony and I started trading emails about the feasibility of producing it and what kind of heads we could use as a donor for the valve train. Tony suggested bringing Jeff P on board because of his work with cooling the L6 head. Tony and I kicked around RB and KA motors for a while and then Tony suggested checking out the Honda K20. Bingo. Removable cam towers, factory roller rockers and a plethora of aftermarket parts. I called one oh my clients that is big in the import drag market and procured an old K20 head. I did some quick measurements and decided that it was probably workable. And so the journey began. The idea is to use the cam towers and valve train from a K20. I grabbed a quick scan with my white light scanner of the exterior. It’s dirty because I’m only using it as a reference scan to design against. I imported the scan into my solids program and then proceed to replace the mesh with solids. Jeff provided me with a great CAD drawing of his head gasket to work from. I decided to take a module approach to model the head. I made a single cylinder complete and the copied and offset it for the other cylinders. I then pulled the solids together to create a single model. At this point I was at a standstill until I could figure out what to do about the timing chain. Jeff and I had a long conversation about pros an cons of various designs. The preference would be a single chain so I ordered up a K20 set to see if it was workable. NOPE. Lower timing gear is too small to bore out to fit the L6 crank. Back to the drawing board. I decided to give the KA set a try. I decided the Altima set would be a good choice as it’s only a single row chain up top. With the roller rockers I don’t think you need a double row. I did a rough mockup on a piece of wood mounting all the pieces. Then I machined a chunk of plastic so I could actually mount it to the block. You can see I’m trying to incorporate the KA guides and lower tensioner but that won’t happen without a new lower timing cover. Here is the lower section with stock modified L6 components. The only tricky bit is I need to remove one link from the chain. I think this is a workable solution. Now I could finish modeling the front and back of the head. Next the front timing cover. The water outlet exits the head in the front and makes a 90 degree turn through the timing cover where the thermostat housing will mount. Now the valve cover. The K20 cam towers kind of dictated the overall size but I was still able to get the styling I was looking for. I was trying to have the flavor of the S20. I’m still tweaking the design but so far I’m pretty happy. The “NISSAN” and “3000” will be machined in so they are kind of placeholders for now. After talking with Jeff about his testing on coolant flow I decided to get the most out of the 3D sand printing process as I could. I designed a water jacket that would be pretty hard to duplicate traditionally. There is a lot of surface area so hopefully there will be large improvements in cooling. Here is a nice shot of the intake and exhaust cores, water core, and upper tensioner. You can see where the cross drilling will go to supply oil to the head, tensioner and idler gear lube. There will have to be additional oil supplied to the last three cam towers as the single feed in the front won’t cut it. Here is a cross section of the head. The cut plane is through the center of one of the intake valves so the ports look a bit off. There is machine allowance on the bottom so the combustion chamber is a little larger than it will be after surfacing. Well like I said in the original Goerz-Paeco post I think this is a very viable approach to producing DOHC head. Should make for an interesting conversation. Derek Oh and one more thing. What good would a thread about casting a head be without....... / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / An actual casting. We poured this Monday and I just got these pics from the foundry today. I haven't seen the head personally but we're pretty sure it is good enough to move forward with. Still lots to do but you can't imagine how happy I am to get the first one right. As long as things proceed as planned I will be selling these. There is still a lot to figure out. I have the foundry working up some pricing for me and I'll post that as soon as I can. Thanks for looking Derek EDIT: I now have a blog about this head on my site. I'm going to continue to post here but the blog is a condensed version of what you see here. There is a FAQ on the left side bar that has a lot of data. If you are new to this build you may want to come up to speed there and then start following it here as there is a lot of great back and forth that isn't on the blog. http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/
  2. And yet another timing chain mockup series. I'm convinced when they design a motor the first thing they do is the timing chain. Talk about restrictive. SN005 is building a tall deck motor so I needed to work out what we were doing on the timing chain. I was hoping that my normal KA setup would work with a redesigned pivot for the tensioner arm. Actually worked out better than the normal setup. It looks like the extra height on the head will allow the arm to clear the timing cover without modifying the cover. It uses all the stuff from a KA24 timing chain kit except the bottom chain needs to be a 94 link instead of the 92. I was trying to get the arm closer to the tensioner but this is the best I'm going to get. Each full link you add or subtract shortens or lengthens the chain by 5/8” so the adjustment is pretty coarse. The guides are stock out of the box Nissan KA24. The jumper brackets on the tension side are temporary. I’ll design something a little better. I'm happy with the angle on the top tensioner. The upper brackets should start to become a standard item at this point. I changed the way the cam cores are being produced. I'm bringing the cams to length after heat treating and then shipping them to Schnieder for OD turning. This is giving me a lot more control. I know it probably seems like this project has stalled but far from it. I just decided to concentrate on getting my build, V2 and SN005 finished off. I realized after selling 005 that there are still a lot of little details to work out and I don't have enough free time to do my regular work and support any more builds. The next three heads will go a lot smoother now that I have all of this worked out. Derek
  3. Well I think I finally worked out all the differences in the dampers and have settled on making the adapters fit two groove damper from the AC equipped 75 through 78 280. This is the damper The outer groove takes the same size belt as the inner groove. This is not the right damper I have 6 assemblies available. This is an assembly It includes a longer crank bolt and the bolts to attach the sensor mounts. The price is $175.00 plus shipping. I also have 2 ford coil brackets that are available for $35.00 each. You have to buy an assembly to buy the bracket. I'm not offering them separately right now. I'm only shipping to the US as I have to drive the stuff to the post office and stand in line to ship anywhere else. Sorry. I had to bump the price a little but it's still a pretty good deal to get EDIS on your car quickly. Thanks Derek
  4. Derek

    EDIS mounting parts available

    Hi I have the kits available. They are $220.00 plus shipping. Here is a link to my web page that has all the details. EDIS Kit Thanks Derek
  5. I didn't realize Garage_junkie had a build thread here on Hybridz so I updated the the link in my earlier post to direct you there. I'm seeing most of these pics the first time and I'm just blown away how cool this build is going to be. Derek
  6. He has gone public so I'm assuming it's ok for me to post this link. 72 GTX Skyline build page It looks like it is going to be an epic build. I'm living vicariously through V3 and SN005 since I can't seem to find time to get my car back on the road:)
  7. More V3 porn. Just stunning IMHO
  8. Hi Phar Thanks Probably the VCT version will be running first since I have a running motor in a car to put the head on. Not sure what they will end up with. I'm planning on 11.5:1 on mine which will easily run pump gas. But that won't happen until I build my stroker. I'm helping SN005 with things directly related to the head but as far as engine building they know more than I do for sure. Xtreme is only doing the head machine work the owner is doing the rest of the build himself. I'm going to be running MS3 as it's required for the VCT. It uses pulse width modulation to vary an oil valve to the phaser and a sensor on the crank and intake cam to determine position. Jeff at Linfert Performance is handling all things ECU and VCT for me. He is doing SN005 as well. It is non VCT and running a MS3 and using Jenevy Heritage ITBs. No numbers on a turnkey head because (by design) currently no two head builds are the same. Of the three that have been sold they are very different levels. I upped the basic estimate on my FAQ for DOHC to $14-16 K at this point. Keep in mind this is without induction or exhaust. I'm not relying on Rebello as the sole source. Xtreme Has a lot of experience with K20 heads and that directly applies to the KN20. Right now I'm being very picky about who I sell to because it is really easy to get sideways on certain aspects of this. I only sold the head to SN005 because he had lined up Xtreme already and I made him qualify with me over the phone that he had the skills to do the rest of the build. I have no plans at all to offer a ready to bolt on head.
  9. Nope nope nope. Derek won't be lifting anyones port work nor will he be offering a "race version" so lets nip that right in the bud. I'm done with versions and design changes. This is the final version. It's amazing how even minor changes in a design can lead to a ton of extra work in downstream operations.
  10. Derek

    This was pretty funny

    At least I thought it was:)
  11. Derek


    I can't tell you exactly where they go but I can tell you basically what they do. The metal capillary tube goes in the evaporator. One wire is 12V from ignition and the other wire goes to the A/C compressor clutch.
  12. Derek

    .080" cam tower shims now available

    Hi I just finished up the cam tower shims and they are back in stock. Shoot me a PM if you want a set. Thanks Derek
  13. Hi I made up some aluminum .080 cam tower shims for the P90 mod. No more stacking multiple shims and the problems that can cause. Plus they're cheaper too! $100.00 per set plus $4.95 flat rate priority mail anywhere in the US. Check with me on International. Thanks Derek
  14. Yea hopefully it will open up some options for people. SN005 took a bullet for the team and payed for the fixtures and the programing. The tentative pricing I saw seemed pretty reasonable depending of course on the flow gains. I hand cleaned up the ports on my new head only removing the casting finish and then smoothing. I'm going to get if flowed so there will be some sort of base line.
  15. Derek

    .080" cam tower shims now available

    Hi Yes I still produce them but at the moment I'm out. I have the material and hey are scheduled for production next week. Thanks Derek
  16. This is a production head or V4. I now refer to the production heads by their serial number. S/N005 is being assembled buy the person who bought it. He chose Xtreme to do the head work and so far I think he chose wisely. They take raw Porsche head castings and bring them all the way to a finished product so I felt comfortable with them doing the work. They also have experience with the K20. I'm hoping they become an option for people who can't wait on Rebello or like S/N005 want's to do their own build. I'm assuming they will flow the head so they will have good data for people that want to go that route.
  17. The owner of S/N005 sent me this video. Xtreme Cylinder Heads CNC porting. I have no idea why the video is giant. I uploaded it directly to the post Video.MOV
  18. Hi Phar Took you long enough:) It truly is an amazing process. It opens up so many things to be produced that would not have been practical before. The profile that I machine into the cams are oversized based on a Schneider profile. At that point any cam grinder with a Honda profile can finish them off. The lobe is large enough for most builds. It's S7 which means it's through hardened so you are not restricted by case thickness. Yea the VCT should be pretty interesting. I'm starting a pool for how many valves I bend before I get it all sorted:)
  19. VCT Progress! So slowly but surely I have been chipping away at making the VCT fit in the available space. What a freaking PIA. The problem with timing chains is you are constrained distance wise by the pitch of the chain and the adjustment can be a bit coarse. Multiply that by two and you can see how it can get tricky. I model things the best I can in 3D but when it comes to something like this I find a hands on approach leads to a more satisfactory result. Machined of the small gear from the KA24 idler. I'm using a 5C expanding mandrel that I machined to fit. Test fitting the Honda exhaust cam gear that I machined previously. Happy with the fit for sure. Quick test fit with the first idler sub plate. Looks good but I know from experience that there is a really long road from this point to the final fitting. Here are the finalish mockup sub plates for the idler gear and the tensioner arm pivot. I may move the idler up another .010" but I haven't decided. I do the majority of my prototyping in plastic. Easier to work with than aluminum and a lot cheaper. The idler plate will be steel and the pivot plate will be aluminum. Upper tensioner mount. The semi finished layout. Upper tensioner is from a Mazda 626. Hybridz member Tioga turned me on to this one . I reshaped the contact shoe a bit and slapped it on there. It is a ratcheting style. They can be problematic if the lobe design on the cams are crappy. The constant pumping on the chain can break the pawls. I'm making the assumption at this point the Schneiders lobe design is a lot better than Cranes and won't be a problem. I had to reshape the contact shoe and will probably work it some more if I stick with it. Tight fit but the bottom line is....It fits. Which is a good thing since I committed to the cams before I knew for sure. Unfortunately I can't access the VCT oil ports on the head because the idler gear is covering them but I already designed a manifold as a work around. So if the pictures make it look like this was a walk in the park here is a shot of the different versions of the sub plates I made to get the relationship between all those moving components the way I wanted them as well as fitting in the space I had to work with. I picked the wrong time to quit sniffing glue:)
  20. Derek

    Project Binkey

    Episode 17 dropped.
  21. Derek

    Project Binkey

    So I posted this in another thread but figured I should put it here. They are doing a AWD conversion on a Mini Cooper. The fab work is really amazing. The video series is entertaining and really filled with a ton of great ideas. Derek
  22. I already have all the stress I can take right now. Thanks anyway:)
  23. Hi blog link http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/ FAQ http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/faq-for-twin-cam-cylinder-head/
  24. Got the VTC cams back from Schneider so I was able to mess around a bit wit the upper chain. Machining the center out of a stock Honda exhaust gear. Holy bajezas was that thing hard. I had to anneal the center to make any headway through it. Came out great though. Action shot. Looks promising but there is a lot left to do. Best part is my stuff is always S/N001
  25. Derek

    How to mount an EDIS wheel for $0.75

    That damper is different than the ones I have. Also the rubber on yours is looking pretty tired. I'd keep a close eye on it. The good news is with the trigger wheel bolted on at least it won't fly through the radiator when it lets go:) Glad to hear you got it sorted out.