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Everything posted by rossman

  1. Heat soaked

    I was actually trying to help you out and I advised you to listen to NewZed. Grannyknot is willing to help. Heck, I will help too, but you're going to have to make an effort and collect some data as requested. We are all just guessing based on the information you've given so far. Have you bothered to check the coolant level and spark plugs as NewZed asked?
  2. Heat soaked

    You are right, you have to start somewhere. You are about where I was 33 years ago when I started fiddling with cars. Listen to NewZed, he is helping you... Keep in mind that HybridZ is meant for people who already know how to diagnose and solve common overheating problems. It's kinda expected that those that post here have already gone thru all the standard diagnosis steps and fixes but still need help because, for whatever reason those steps didn't fix the problem. Patience runs thin for newbies who haven't done their homework, especially when they cop an attitude. Google is your friend, search something like "how to diagnose engine overheating" and go from there...
  3. Use a degree wheel and piston stop to find TDC.
  4. compressor mount

    Have you seen this? I believe he will sell you a bracket separately. https://nostalgicac.com/compressors/compressors/datsun-240z-260z-280z-compressor-upgrade-kit.html
  5. Z31 axle boot split

    The passenger side Z31 axle inner boot on my '72 240 split and slung grease all over the bottom of the car. I need some help figuring out what caused it to split so I can prevent it from happening again. For reference, my 240z is turbo'd with a Z31 LSD differential, Z31 axles with shortened shafts, 280z mustache bar, Ron Tyler front differential mount, and stock rear suspension with urethane bushings all around. I assume the boot hit passenger side LCA under hard acceleration causing it to rip. The boot is within .25" of the LCA; looking at it with the car jacked up and suspension at full droop. I assumed this was worst case. It's been awhile since I drove the car but I remember it making a metallic popping sound, kinda like an old fashioned oil can end popping in/out when I would accelerate quickly from a standstill. It would go boink, bonk every time. A while back I checked and everything seems tight under the car. Thinking about it now I've sorta convinced myself that the sound was the mustache bar flexing under load and contacting the axle boot. I am considering buying a TTT mustache bar, thinking that will reduce differential flex and fix the problem. While I'm at it, I'll shave off some LCA material near the LCA boot to give more clearance. What do you guys think, am I on the right track? Thanks, Ross
  6. Z31 axle boot split

    Yah, mine hasn't been broke long either. There doesn't appear to be any dirt in the joint. My boots were new so I'm pretty sure they would hold up to the few ~100 mph runs I've done. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture before I took it out, but the split looked like it was right where the tip of the LCA was closest to the boot.
  7. Oil Mix rebello

    From the album rossman240z

  8. rocker spalling

    From the album rossman240z

  9. speed hut gauges

    From the album rossman240z

  10. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    I just donated $100. I'm more than happy to donate $100 per year to keep this site going!
  11. Who's s30 with Carbon Fiber Hood Louvers ??? (PIC)

    How about these? The on-car picture looks the same but the detail doesn't look tapered. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo? http://www.topstage.com/product/twin-aero-vents/
  12. Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    I set it at only 22 degrees at red line with 10 lbs of boost. The car is pretty fast even with such a mild tune. The engine is far from stock - custom high lift longish duration cam, ported head, 8.5:1 flat tops, larger intake valve, etc. I only played with the tune for drivability. One day I'll start bumping up the timing and boost but right now I have other issues to tend to.
  13. Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    My very stale recollection of the thread was that it recommended improving flow thru the back of the head thus removing dead flow zones. So my solution is to improve coolant flow across the head to the bypass lines that short circuit directly to the thermostat. On my setup I added a spacer between the thermostat valve and the lower thermostat housing. I then ran aluminum tube from it to several locations near 3, 4, 5, 6, as 83turbo280zx did. Basic calculations comparing the cross sectional area of the tubes to the upper radiator hose show that the small tubes combined are less than 1/4 the area of the large outlet to the thermostat. Based on that I assumed that my setup wouldn't cause dead flow zones in the front of the head. I also plugged the coolant bypass in the block and opened up the head gasket to allow more flow into the head along it's length. All that said, I'm still running very conservative timing advance.
  14. Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?

    Without going back to your original head and set up and only making only this one change it's impossible to know how much this is helping. One thing I would suggest is to increase the size of the hose and fittings from the manifold to the thermostat housing. The setup you currently have has 5 hoses coming in and one going out, all the same size. The hose between the manifold and thermostat housing is a restriction to flow. There are no guarantees it will help but it should maximize flow thru the system and improve cooling in the back of the head.
  15. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Paid in full!
  16. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Deposit payment sent!
  17. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Woza, Thank you for making this happen! I have one question before I place my deposit. Does this kit retain the same maximum diameter of the azc kit? I have 15 inch wheels with very little clearance between the caliper and the inner side of the rim. Thanks! Ross
  18. T3 Turbo Sizing

    Maybe...BUT power is addictive and I bet he'll soon be wanting more. I would recommend getting a modern a turbo with room to grow.
  19. T3 Turbo Sizing

    Take a look at this one: https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3576r-gen-ii
  20. One of the many discussions on this topic can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/
  21. Q45 90mm THROTTLE BODY FS

    Are they the same width and location as stock? I can't tell by the picture.
  22. Q45 90mm THROTTLE BODY FS

    How do the BHJ groove widths compare to the stock 280z two row damper?
  23. Rocker Damage

    Yesterday while inspecting my cam I discovered what I would call pitting on the rocker pads. The cam lobes show some minor scoring although I can't feel it with my finger or catch my fingernail on it. All of the rocker and lobes look similar. I've seen cam damage from lack of lubrication but this doesn't look the same. I removed the valve cover and checked/adjusted the lash pad gaps per Rebello's instructions at 500 miles but didn't notice this damage. I was primarily looking at the lobes and as stated I checked the gaps at the lash pads not the cam. The engine now has approx 2K miles on it. The cam was lubricated with grease and the oil system was pre-lubed prior to startup with pressurized oil pumped thru the oil pressure sensor port. Could this be a material/heat treat problem with the rocker? Is this something that will just get worse and possibly damage the rest of my engine or can I just run it as-is and keep an eye on it. I apologize for the picture size but I want to show detail...