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Everything posted by rossman

  1. Just pull it out and check it. It may be worn or broken internally.
  2. Z31 axle swap problems

  3. Z31 axle swap problems

    Had the exact same thing happen on my car with stock suspension ,Z31t axles, and Modern Motorsports adapters. Stretching out the boot might help but it relies on friction to hold it in place so it may just slide back after some period of time. But, it's worth a shot. I had decided that the differential was flexing too much so I installed TTT mustache bar (previously stock 280z) and ground the corner off the LCA where it comes close to the boot. The car is still on jack stands so I don't know if that combination worked. Installing aftermarket LCAs hadn't crossed my mind until now....
  4. Wastegate upsizing

    At least you figured it out! All of us that were trying to help assumed that the control setup was good. Take it as a lesson learned; start with the simple stuff first and verify before you move on to the next, more complex possible cause.
  5. AZC Rear Brake bracket - front 280z rotor centers

    I had a pair of the AZC rear brackets that were set up for parking calipers but destroyed them, cutting them off my car. IIRC the brackets were set up for some never developed custom AZC parking caliper not Wilwoods. @Woza01 produced a set of steel rear brackets that did incorporate both the Wilwood brake calipers and parking brake caliper.
  6. Good eye Villeman! That dogleg has been patched for sure. Zoom all the way into the bottom on the dogleg and you can see the crappy body work underneath the paint. Also, it looks like rust bubbles underneath the paint on the left side hatch area. +1 *close up* pictures of the battery tray and underbody, especially the frame rails. I would be very skeptical of anybody who claims a rust free car unless they have the bare metal pictures to prove it. Otherwise, it's all just talk.
  7. Wastegate upsizing

    Comparing boost numbers between an old L6 and a 2JZ is a bit like comparing apples and oranges. I'm sure your engine is flowing considerably more air than mine at 10 psi, requiring your wastegate to handle a higher volume of air to keep it there.
  8. Wastegate upsizing

    I'm running a 5lbs spring in the MV-S. I typically run 10 psi but have run 8 psi and 15 psi at times. It seems to be stable but I haven't logged it. No HP numbers yet.
  9. Wastegate upsizing

    FWIW, my TiAL MV-S 38mm wastegate setup is similar to Softopz's "A" setup above but with it merges into the downpipe a little further down past the second bend. I'm also running a GT35R and have no problems controlling boost.
  10. Wastegate upsizing

    Chickenman covered it but you might want to also consider your wastegate outlet pipe too. If the outlet is routed to a high pressure or very turbulent location in the exhaust pipe it will affect the efficiency of the wastegate. You could test this pretty easily by dumping to atmosphere like a screamer pipe. If the boost becomes controllable then you found your issue or at least part of your issue.
  11. My engine builder, Rebello recommended 1/2 bottle of Lucas TB Zinc Plus combined with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft 5W-30 synthetic blend and Penzoil GT Performance Racing Oil 25W-50 engine oils.
  12. Yah, buyer beware! Lucas Engine Break-in Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus is good stuff: 31,000 PPM Zinc
  13. That's good advice from Gareth. J. The wiring and connectors to the ammeter is a known source of car fires on old 240z's. The ammeter sees full system current all the way up to the gauge. Old corroded wires and connectors build up resistance across the connections leading to heat build-up, melted insulation/connectors and finally fire. I'd recommend ditching the ammeter for a voltmeter. You don't have to pull the dash and there are instructions how to do it on this site.
  14. Awesome build! I'd recommend something different than the T3 front differential mount. That type of mount is known to move around under load.
  15. Ah, I thought the holes in the throttle bodies we're injector holes. It may be ok then. The will still see some fuel so you might want to check them periodically.
  16. Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone.
  17. I was surprised not to see this video linked here already:
  18. Turbo?

    Chickenman nailed it. You pretty much have to start over. These old engines are prone to knock especially in cylinders 5&6. Modifying the head with a coolant bypass (as discussed in one of the L6 stickies) may help a little but with pump gas I bet it still knocks like crazy with any kind of real boost. If you end up starting over, I would start with a decent running NA engine. Once you get it set up and running good, then spend the money on a fancy turbo build. That way if the blow up the NA engine, there is less money lost. Oh, and by the way triple weber setups are cool! Alas, more power is addictive and I get it. I caught the bug back in 2008. But unless you're racing, a finely tuned NA L6 is more fun to drive on the street IMHO. A lot of the power my car produces just ends up going up in (tire) smoke. That's my $0.02. Good luck.
  19. Absolutely beautiful! I certainly wouldn't cover those with powder coat.
  20. Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Welcome to the forum! I agree with rbturbo. It's your car, ignore the purists and build what you want. You mentioned money a few times in your video so you might want to consider building a turbo l28. You can easily get 300 hp to the wheels and it's probably the least expensive way to go if you keep it reasonable.
  21. Ross' Sleeper Z

    I'd say the fit was reasonably acceptable only after I cut away most of the existing frame rail. Even then both the original and BadDog rails required quite a bit of tweaking/panel beating. Thanks! I have a small bit of welding left to do on the passenger side. Next will be treating it all with Ospho followed by primer, paint and 3M rubberized undercoating underneath.
  22. The goal of this project is to have a stock looking 1972 240z with a much more powerful engine and beefed up drive train and some suspension modifications to match. This car will be mostly a weekend driver with some track days. The only constraint (besides money ) is that I want to stick with the L6 and Datsun/Nissan parts as much as possible. Here is the current list of performance parts to reach this goal. Rebello built 3.0 liter L6 turbo N42 engine 89mm 8.5:1 forged JE pistons, Forged rods Offset ground l28 crank Custom Isky Turbo cam Intake: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Exhaust: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Ported head with 1 mm over sized stainless intake valves Intake: 201 @ 25" water Exhaust: 151 @ 25" water Garrett GT3582R turbo, .63 a/r on-center T3 turbine, 3" v-band Wolf V500 EMS running sequential fuel injection and firing six ls1 coils J & S Electronics Vampire individual cylinder knock control Custom Intake Tial BOV Tial wastegate AVO intercooler 21x8x3 core, 2.5” inlet/outlet Custom 3” down pipe Modified stock exhaust manifold and custom wastegate pipe 2.5” aluminum intercooler piping 65 mm throttle body 6 ls1 coils mounted on a Ron Tyler bracket 75 lbs RC fuel injectors Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and FPR Modified 240z gas tank with custom internal reservoir 83 zx distributor mounted CAS with an extra hole for ECU sync Z31t LSD differential Z31t half shafts with M2 shortened shafts Modern Motorsports Z31 to 280z stub axle adapters 280z stub axles Custom rear brace to clear differential cover Ron Tyler differential mount Arizona Z Car race brake conversion I am starting with a straight and almost rust free car. Here is a video of the car a few weeks after I purchased it. It turned out that the valve train noise was caused by a very poorly machined head. There were indentations on the pistons where the valves were hitting them. Here is what it looks like now. Kinda sad. It's been sitting for a while and is all dusty. The L24 is out. I expect to have the Rebello long block in a couple of weeks (January 2009). Here is my gearbox collection and the L24 block that I pulled out of this car. The clean gearbox is the one I pulled out of this car. It's a good box. The one to the left of it is an '82 close ratio. I may install one of these to begin with. When it craters, I'll swap in a Z32 box. Here is the F54/P90 core that I will be sending back to Rebello. My messy benches with lots of stock and performance Z stuff that I have been collecting over the past year or so. More when the engine comes in...
  23. Revisiting the line lock

    I actually have a stainless version of that valve that I was going to use for a line lock too, until I saw that a parking brake option was available for the AZC Wilwood setup. I never really liked the idea of not having a mechanical way to brake the car.
  24. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Thanks! I will! I wanted to verify because, according to the boxes I received, I had to install the left caliper on the right of the car and vice versa. I couldn't find any markings on the calipers to verify.
  25. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Does this look like the correct orientation of the mounted right hand parking brake?