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Everything posted by rossman

  1. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    3. As stated earlier, Aeromotive A1000 EFI Regulators are popular. I'm using one on my car. Whatever brand you get, you typically need one that is adjustable and has 1:1 vacuum/boost reference.
  2. Look for the thread in the L-series FAQs. Basically, cylinders #5 & 6 tend to be prone to detonation due to poor coolant circulation in that area of the head. The mod is to drill/tap holes on the driver's side of the head just above #5 & 6 exhaust ports then plumb those ports directly to the thermostat housing.
  3. Run a newer, efficient turbo & intercooler, good ecu, do the head cooling mod, smooth out the combustion chambers and deshroud the valves and I bet you'll be pushing 300 hp no problem.
  4. The note in the bottom left corner of this image. Now that I read it again, maybe it will work with all of the controllers listed.
  5. speedhut manual

  6. speedhut.JPG

    From the album speedhut manual

  7. The gauge came calibrated for innovate. I'm not sure if it's user configurable. From the manual: Your wide band gauge is calibrated to work with Innovates 10-18 AF (.880-3.54volts). I'm not married to the gauge or controller but it'd be nice to have options.
  8. I have another question sorta related to the first one. Since my Speedhut gauge is set up for innovate lambda controller output, will a Spartan lambda controller work with my gauge?
  9. Thanks! It would seem like a pretty straightforward conversion from voltage to afr.
  10. I'm in the market for a datalogger and very interested in the iDash. Does the iDash basic support output from an LC1? Is the basic upgradeable to add O2 control?
  11. Oil Filter Pressure Relief Valve Plugged?

    You don't need the bypass valve. Buy high quality oil filters and change them often.
  12. New to forums and z cars

    If I were to do it again, I'd source a good long nose r200, Techno Toy Tuning mustache bar, MFactory LSD, Wolf Creek Racing CV Halfshafts with 280z stub axles.
  13. I used the tall Jeep mount and "tuned" the differential nose height by removing material until the angle between the transmission and differential were within a couple of degrees.
  14. Heat soaked

    I was actually trying to help you out and I advised you to listen to NewZed. Grannyknot is willing to help. Heck, I will help too, but you're going to have to make an effort and collect some data as requested. We are all just guessing based on the information you've given so far. Have you bothered to check the coolant level and spark plugs as NewZed asked?
  15. Heat soaked

    You are right, you have to start somewhere. You are about where I was 33 years ago when I started fiddling with cars. Listen to NewZed, he is helping you... Keep in mind that HybridZ is meant for people who already know how to diagnose and solve common overheating problems. It's kinda expected that those that post here have already gone thru all the standard diagnosis steps and fixes but still need help because, for whatever reason those steps didn't fix the problem. Patience runs thin for newbies who haven't done their homework, especially when they cop an attitude. Google is your friend, search something like "how to diagnose engine overheating" and go from there...
  16. Use a degree wheel and piston stop to find TDC.
  17. compressor mount

    Have you seen this? I believe he will sell you a bracket separately. https://nostalgicac.com/compressors/compressors/datsun-240z-260z-280z-compressor-upgrade-kit.html
  18. Z31 axle boot split

    The passenger side Z31 axle inner boot on my '72 240 split and slung grease all over the bottom of the car. I need some help figuring out what caused it to split so I can prevent it from happening again. For reference, my 240z is turbo'd with a Z31 LSD differential, Z31 axles with shortened shafts, 280z mustache bar, Ron Tyler front differential mount, and stock rear suspension with urethane bushings all around. I assume the boot hit passenger side LCA under hard acceleration causing it to rip. The boot is within .25" of the LCA; looking at it with the car jacked up and suspension at full droop. I assumed this was worst case. It's been awhile since I drove the car but I remember it making a metallic popping sound, kinda like an old fashioned oil can end popping in/out when I would accelerate quickly from a standstill. It would go boink, bonk every time. A while back I checked and everything seems tight under the car. Thinking about it now I've sorta convinced myself that the sound was the mustache bar flexing under load and contacting the axle boot. I am considering buying a TTT mustache bar, thinking that will reduce differential flex and fix the problem. While I'm at it, I'll shave off some LCA material near the LCA boot to give more clearance. What do you guys think, am I on the right track? Thanks, Ross
  19. Z31 axle boot split

    Yah, mine hasn't been broke long either. There doesn't appear to be any dirt in the joint. My boots were new so I'm pretty sure they would hold up to the few ~100 mph runs I've done. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture before I took it out, but the split looked like it was right where the tip of the LCA was closest to the boot.
  20. Oil Mix rebello

    From the album rossman240z

  21. rocker spalling

    From the album rossman240z

  22. speed hut gauges

    From the album rossman240z

  23. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    I just donated $100. I'm more than happy to donate $100 per year to keep this site going!
  24. Who's s30 with Carbon Fiber Hood Louvers ??? (PIC)

    How about these? The on-car picture looks the same but the detail doesn't look tapered. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo? http://www.topstage.com/product/twin-aero-vents/