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Everything posted by rossman

  1. Awesome build! I'd recommend something different than the T3 front differential mount. That type of mount is known to move around under load.
  2. Ah, I thought the holes in the throttle bodies we're injector holes. It may be ok then. The will still see some fuel so you might want to check them periodically.
  3. Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone.
  4. I was surprised not to see this video linked here already:
  5. Turbo?

    Chickenman nailed it. You pretty much have to start over. These old engines are prone to knock especially in cylinders 5&6. Modifying the head with a coolant bypass (as discussed in one of the L6 stickies) may help a little but with pump gas I bet it still knocks like crazy with any kind of real boost. If you end up starting over, I would start with a decent running NA engine. Once you get it set up and running good, then spend the money on a fancy turbo build. That way if the blow up the NA engine, there is less money lost. Oh, and by the way triple weber setups are cool! Alas, more power is addictive and I get it. I caught the bug back in 2008. But unless you're racing, a finely tuned NA L6 is more fun to drive on the street IMHO. A lot of the power my car produces just ends up going up in (tire) smoke. That's my $0.02. Good luck.
  6. Absolutely beautiful! I certainly wouldn't cover those with powder coat.
  7. Austin Leonard Automotive - The Datsun Build

    Welcome to the forum! I agree with rbturbo. It's your car, ignore the purists and build what you want. You mentioned money a few times in your video so you might want to consider building a turbo l28. You can easily get 300 hp to the wheels and it's probably the least expensive way to go if you keep it reasonable.
  8. Ross' Sleeper Z

    I'd say the fit was reasonably acceptable only after I cut away most of the existing frame rail. Even then both the original and BadDog rails required quite a bit of tweaking/panel beating. Thanks! I have a small bit of welding left to do on the passenger side. Next will be treating it all with Ospho followed by primer, paint and 3M rubberized undercoating underneath.
  9. The goal of this project is to have a stock looking 1972 240z with a much more powerful engine and beefed up drive train and some suspension modifications to match. This car will be mostly a weekend driver with some track days. The only constraint (besides money ) is that I want to stick with the L6 and Datsun/Nissan parts as much as possible. Here is the current list of performance parts to reach this goal. Rebello built 3.0 liter L6 turbo N42 engine 89mm 8.5:1 forged JE pistons, Forged rods Offset ground l28 crank Custom Isky Turbo cam Intake: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Exhaust: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Ported head with 1 mm over sized stainless intake valves Intake: 201 @ 25" water Exhaust: 151 @ 25" water Garrett GT3582R turbo, .63 a/r on-center T3 turbine, 3" v-band Wolf V500 EMS running sequential fuel injection and firing six ls1 coils J & S Electronics Vampire individual cylinder knock control Custom Intake Tial BOV Tial wastegate AVO intercooler 21x8x3 core, 2.5” inlet/outlet Custom 3” down pipe Modified stock exhaust manifold and custom wastegate pipe 2.5” aluminum intercooler piping 65 mm throttle body 6 ls1 coils mounted on a Ron Tyler bracket 75 lbs RC fuel injectors Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and FPR Modified 240z gas tank with custom internal reservoir 83 zx distributor mounted CAS with an extra hole for ECU sync Z31t LSD differential Z31t half shafts with M2 shortened shafts Modern Motorsports Z31 to 280z stub axle adapters 280z stub axles Custom rear brace to clear differential cover Ron Tyler differential mount Arizona Z Car race brake conversion I am starting with a straight and almost rust free car. Here is a video of the car a few weeks after I purchased it. It turned out that the valve train noise was caused by a very poorly machined head. There were indentations on the pistons where the valves were hitting them. Here is what it looks like now. Kinda sad. It's been sitting for a while and is all dusty. The L24 is out. I expect to have the Rebello long block in a couple of weeks (January 2009). Here is my gearbox collection and the L24 block that I pulled out of this car. The clean gearbox is the one I pulled out of this car. It's a good box. The one to the left of it is an '82 close ratio. I may install one of these to begin with. When it craters, I'll swap in a Z32 box. Here is the F54/P90 core that I will be sending back to Rebello. My messy benches with lots of stock and performance Z stuff that I have been collecting over the past year or so. More when the engine comes in...
  10. Revisiting the line lock

    I actually have a stainless version of that valve that I was going to use for a line lock too, until I saw that a parking brake option was available for the AZC Wilwood setup. I never really liked the idea of not having a mechanical way to brake the car.
  11. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Thanks! I will! I wanted to verify because, according to the boxes I received, I had to install the left caliper on the right of the car and vice versa. I couldn't find any markings on the calipers to verify.
  12. Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

    Does this look like the correct orientation of the mounted right hand parking brake?
  13. Fuel line routing

    After upgrading my mustache bar to a Techno Toy Tuning bar my custom fuel line routing doesn't work anymore. The bar is considerably taller than stock and pinches the flex hose. I'm considering a few options and I'm looking for suggestions. Options I've considered are the following. 1. Routing the flex lines around the outer mustache bar mounts. 2. Installing 30 degree fitting instead of straight as pictured. 3. Drilling thru the side of the frame rails and bending new tubing to mate up to the existing tube. 4. Other options? Let me know what you think. Cheers, Ross
  14. boosted300's RB 240Z

    Gotcha, thanks!
  15. boosted300's RB 240Z

    I'm really enjoying your build. Keep up the great work! I'm planning my VintageAir install and I'm curious why you used hard line, after the condenser. Shouldn't it be insulated? Not criticizing, just curious/learning.
  16. Ross' Sleeper Z

    Floor pans, frame rails and seat brackets are done! I used modeling clay to get the as-installed profile of the pan. Downside is that the clay shrinks as it dries. Didn't figure that out until the second bracket that I cut short.
  17. Hi from Arizona

    Welcome Mischief! Definitely post some pictures.
  18. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    Rebello built my entire long block. He used notched flat top pistons with a metal head gasket. Compression is 8.5:1 according to him. The cam is a regrind but all the lash pads are stock height. I guess he compensated for the difference in cam base circle by adjusting the valve heights.
  19. Paul Newman's 280zx on Youtube

    Interesting shots of the engine too. I was surprised to see that it's a single throttle body and seemingly tiny intercooler. Looks like it has some sort of water or alcohol injection too.
  20. Another S30 on Jay Leno's garage

    Jay Leno is just a great guy. I met him while working a summer job at a hotel in Houston. He's just as friendly and down to earth in person as he is in his videos.
  21. Mystery Big Valve Ported N42 Head.

    The converted numbers are similar to my Rebello ported p90a head. The port is what Rebello called a "mild port." Custom Isky Turbo cam Intake: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Exhaust: .535 lift, 278 duration, 114 lobe center Ported head with 1 mm over sized stainless intake valves Intake: 201 @ 25" water Exhaust: 151 @ 25" water
  22. Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    It certainly has some drawbacks (weight also), but structurally it looks much more stout that the crappy cantilevered designs being sold by other vendors.
  23. Ford 8.8 IRS swap v2.0

    This seems like a good mount design that doesn't require mods to the body and can take the moment well.
  24. If the door latches ok then it's probably the correct door for the car. Both the hinges and latch positions are adjustable.
  25. The rear link allows the distance between the inner and outer rear pivot points to change as the LCA swings thru it's arc instead of forcing the motion thru the strut. The motion is complicated enough that it's difficult to visualize, at least for me. I had convinced myself that it worked back when those old threads were active...BUT, I didn't model it kinematically so, there may be a factor that I'm not considering. In other words, I could have it all wrong!