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Chickenman last won the day on August 13

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About Chickenman

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  1. Another good option, is the Mann Pro-vent system. This is used on Corvettes and many European cars, including BMW. They are a more sophisticated design of my homebuilt oil separator. Stock GM PCV valve can go in line at outlet side. They work very well... but are kind of Butt ugly. The Pro-Vent 200 should suffice. ProVent_en.pdf
  2. I autocrossed, hillclimbed and ran track days with a very well built SBC for years. Not an LS, but oil control problem is basically the same. I spent a lot of time re-designing the Valve cover and PCV system. Here's what I did. 1: Choice of valve cover is very important. Mainly in the baffling. The OEM Gen 1 and 2 had a good " Chimney " style baffle with angled baffle plates inside. These are much more effective at separating oil than many aftermarket styles . Some have no baffling at all, or just a flat plate positioned below the PCV hole. These ar next to useless. 2: I use the tallest valve covers I could find. GM Performance with the factory style " Chimney" baffle plates. The taller height of the Valve cover raise the Chimney, so if your get any pooling of oil in the head, it won't suck it up like a vacuum cleaner. 3: Relocation of PCV valve. You should always run a PCV valve, but not from the Valve cover. I used a Chrysler style baffled Breather Cap where the PCV valve was originally located. These have additional baffling inside to act as an Oil separator. The cheaper ones are juts stuffed with steel wool. The better ones have both angled plates and steel wool. Both seen to be effective. 4: I then made a Custom oil separator/ catch tank where the PCV valve was attached. I used a modified CSR aluminium Radiator overflow tank for this . The tank was about 3.5" in diameter by about 10" long. Here, bigger is better. About halfway down ( a good 4 inches ) I welded a side nipple into the Can. The hose from the Chrysler breather cap attaches to this. I welded it at a tangent, so any incoming air/oil would spin in a Vortex. This helps separate the oil as it hits the side of the tank. 5: At the top of the tank I drilled a hole to fit the PCV grommet. The PCV valve was inserted at the top of the Tank and then went to the Carb PCV nipple ( Or manifold nipple on EFI ) . I did not install any extra baffling inside. The 4 " inlet below the OCV valve and the vortex spin was more than sufficient to separate any slight oil mist that got pat the GM " Chimney " baffles and the Chrysler Oil breather cap. ( Extra baffling would certainly help in difficult cases though ) Worked extremely well for may years. Autocross is the most difficult test as you are constantly buzzing High RPM, then off the throttle ( High Vacuum ) , with braking and violent cornering maneuvers. This makes it very difficult for the upper end oil to drain off as it's being constantly thrown about and away from the drains. With this modification, The PCV system was still effective, but very little oil mist got into the Intake manifold. You can see part of the CSR catch can ( Red bracket ) on the right side of the picture. Juts ahead of the W/Washer tank. PCV hose comes out of top and goes to Holley PCV nipple. You can just make out the Chrysler breather cap on the drivers side valve cover. Hose from breather cap ( 5?8" ) goes from Breather cap to side inlet of CSR catch can. Located well below PCV valve as noted.
  3. Chickenman

    Triple Blowthrough Turbo

    Very nice project. Well sorted. Only constructive criticism I would make is don't bundle the HT Leads together like that. Even with Spiral Core wires. Bundling together like that can cause cross fire. Especially if you put a stronger coil in later... which is often required. Factory method of HT routing works very well. BTW. if you do go to upgrade the coil. The Allstar 81230 is a good choice. Modern E-Core that is has a lot more spark energy than the older canister coils. Exact same specs at the Crane LX91 . But the LX91's are getting harder and harder to find. At least the OEM Crane models. Both will work with CDI or Inductive ignition. Summit, Jegs and other places carry the Allst 81230.
  4. Chickenman

    ITM piston valve relief depth

    I don't have an exact answer. But I did find this VERY detailed article by Racer Brown on building Datsun L-Series engines. It's well worth Bookmarking and reading the complete article. http://www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html Chapter 13 covers piston to valve clearance. Looks like stock Flat Tops can be machined quite a bit. ITM should be no different I would think. If you only need an extra .020" to .050" I would think it would be a non issue. Here's the important info: The piston crown of a stock piston is about 5/16-inch thick near the centre of the piston and slightly thicker toward the outer edge. This means that the stock pistons can be safely machined for valve reliefs to a depth of 0.125-inch from the top surface of the piston crown IF and ONLY if there is a radius of at least 0.060-inch at the bottom of each relief. This leaves a nominal crown thickness of about 3/16-inch at the thinnest point which, of course, is at the bottom of the relief. The crown thickness increases as the relief approaches the top surface of the piston. Normally, the remaining 3/16-inch crown thickness is adequate for any application involving the use of stock pistons. It must be pointed out that the 5/16-inch total crown thickness is an average figure; some pistons may be thinner in this area than others, so it is certainly advisable to make some careful measurements before arbitrarily gouging the pistons 1/8-inch and finding out later (the hard way) that the 1/8-inch was too much.
  5. Chickenman

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    The thing with Turbocharged engines is that they essentially react as a larger displacement NA engine. You want to emphasize the Torque band rather than the high RPM band. We have a lot of experienced big turbo 510 guys out my way. Those who have been running Autocross, hill climbs and Road Racing have found that running a stock gear ratio such as a 3.9 on a 510 yields quicker Lap Times than running a shorter gear ratio such as 4.375's. Torque is what accelerates a car out of slow corners. The Turbo does seem to build more boost and Torque with more load on it. I have 3.9 on my NA 1976 280Z with a ZX 5 speed. The 3.9's are perfect and really allows the engine to Rev quickly. BTW, engine is not stock and will pull hard to 7,000 rpm. But if I was building a Turbo motor, I would probably go with 3.5 gears. You want to utilise that fat and flat Torque band as much as you can.
  6. Chickenman

    T3/T4 Turbo that spools like stock?

    T3/T4 hybrid with a .57 Trim is a good choice as well. Will easily meet your HP goals with room to spare. Will have a fairly quick spool as well. Add a good adjustable FPR to your build sheet. An Aeromotive EFI Bypass regulator part #13129 is a very good choice. You may want to consider jumping direct to 550cc injectors. Get Hi-Impedance injectors. Less hassle than dealing with the MS-2 Low-Z injector drivers, which sometimes can be a bit flaky. IMHO, buy the 3.57 revision board. Uses Small Scale Integration and is Robotics assembled. Much less chance of human error with assembly ( soldering mistakes primarily ). PM me when you need a Tune and setup. I do Remote Tuning and initial setup. Can save you a lot of time and frustration.
  7. Chickenman

    Can i fit a fs5w71g in my 74

    I think it's one of the more accurate charts out there. By a company that sells rebuild kits, so they have to have a pretty accurate Data Base. Did you go to the Details Page? I didn't have time. It's got a very good break down. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan.html I your original post you were asking about an FS5W71G... you said it was a 2wd. Parts Chart doesn't agree with that. Shows all the G models as 4wd. Now you seem to be saying you are getting an FS5W71E. That would make sense for a 2wd. Which is it G or E ?
  8. Chickenman

    Can i fit a fs5w71g in my 74

    Ok.. so some reserch shows that to be a 5 speed out of a 4 cylinder 1986 to 1988 4WD Pathfinder . May not be the best choice. Probably going to have stump puller low gears. Gotta run... tuning session. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan.html
  9. Chickenman

    Can i fit a fs5w71g in my 74

    I would check the gear ratios. Often trucks have very short first and second gears compared to cars. since you Autocross, this could mess up your gearing. Especially if the Truck 5 speed was out of a 4 banger.
  10. Chickenman

    Matching cam & crank timing

    Best way to make sure you get things correct now, is to pull the front Timing cover. Next time make marks on everything with a Grease Paint Pen. I use two different colors of Marker and mark more than one area. In case the paint gets rubbed off accidentally.
  11. Chickenman

    Matching cam & crank timing

    There are factory Service Manuals on line. Can timing has to be EXACT. There are special markings on the Chain, Cam gear, Crank gear and Thrust plate that all have to be aligned correctly. Eyeballing things with " Bunny Ears " is going to end in tears. Here is a .PDF of an L28 Engine section. NA and Turbo are all the same. Read it. Then read it again and follow the procedures. EM.pdf
  12. Yeah... 15's would be really tight. The 280ZX rear rotors are not 300mm though. Only 256 mm. The PBR GM calipers should clear with that rotor. You'd have to try them and see what the clearance is. Here are a couple of Pictures from my Third gen Camaro. First picture is GM 1LE rear rotors ( 300mm / 11.8" ) with PBR Calipers. This required 16" rims to clear. Second Picture is same rear rotor with WilWood Forged Superlites. The Super Lites actually had more clearance than the PBR's.
  13. Personally, looking back on my Maxima caliper install, I would now build a custom adapter and use something like GM PBR aluminium calipers off Third and Fourth Gen Camaro's. ( 1989 through Mid 200's ) These are designed for an 11.8" rotor ( 300mm ) . Will have full pad coverage over the disc ( unlike Maxima calipers ) , they are extremely reliable, dirt cheap, easy to find and have a huge Pad selection. You should be able to get buy with the stock M/Cyl as the piston volume is close to a Maxima Caliper. You may need to upgrade to a 1" M/Cyl but that is not a big deal. I would eliminate the stock proportioning valve and run an adjustable one on any Track or Autocross use vehicle. So nice to be able to alter the amount of rear brake bias. Can be used to help car rotate on initial turn-in. Very effective for Autocross.
  14. Chickenman

    Temp reads high while moving, but cools while stopped?

    You may have an Air Lock. Bring the system up to operating temp, with the Radiator cap removed. Watch the fluid level. It should drop as soon as the thermostat opens. Then add coolant. Rev the engine to about 2,000 - 2,500 RPM. Coolant level should drop some more. Add coolant till filler neck while maintaining elevated RPM. Then slap rad cap on. This will fill radiator completely. Of course you are running the factory Coolant recovery tank?
  15. Chickenman

    Dyno'd my stock L28ET today - coolant everywhere!

    That's usually a voltage offset problem or Calibration problem in Tuner Studio. Hussein gives direction above to correct that. However, I wonder if there is a connection between the two. You mention that your engine has been running a bit rough lately. Then I saw low alternator levels in TS. Then we have the AFR gauge and TS reporting different values. I wonder if you have a bad or loose ground somewhere? That could cause all three symptoms.