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Chickenman

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Chickenman last won the day on May 11

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About Chickenman

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  1. Chickenman

    Ms3x install

    Bosch makes a PW controlled IAC that looks to be easier to set up than many stepper motors. Used on early 90's golfs. They run any where from $35 to $100 on E-Bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-IAC-Speed-Stabilizer-VW-Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-EuroVan-/351773015388
  2. Chickenman

    OERs dripping inside barrels

    Well... seems the Needles and seats aren't sealing. Now you have to find the cause. Either some trash in the N&S, N&S gummed up or possible floats are " Heavy ". Nitryl floats can absorb gas with age and sometimes Brass floats get pinholes in them. Usually at solder seams. Checking float level may not uncover a " heavy " float or a slightly leaking N&S. Only way to teall is to weigh the floats with an accurate scale. Brass floats you can hear the gas sloshing about inside.
  3. Chickenman

    Chickenman Remote Tune Service Review

    Awe shucks .. Thanks so much Raphael. I really enjoy helping others Tune their cars. And it keeps my Brain from turning into complete mush... LOL
  4. Chickenman

    36-1 trigger wheel placement

    Answered in other thread. Simple answer is MS2 3.57 for you!!! IMHO of course...
  5. Chickenman

    Microsquirt

    Just buy a regular MS 2 from DIY or a Local builder like Softopz. . I prefer the 3.57 board as it is all surface mount technology ( Robot soldering ) . Less chance for human error. Mega Squirt 2 has two high current Injector drivers built in that use Pulse Width Current Limiting. So you can drive low-impedance injectors without dropping resistors. The MS2 is compatible with the Ford EDIS ignition system. Just mention to the Vendor that you want to run EDIS just to make sure it is jumpered and built correctly. I assume the Chrysler coil is a Triple Coil pack running Waste Spark. Is that why you want to run EDIS? The MS2 3.57 board will do everything that you want. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu/
  6. Chickenman

    Another clunk post - ugh

    I corrected the link to the 510Realm CV Clunk thread. This should work now: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=29907
  7. Chickenman

    Another clunk post - ugh

    Stev. Too bad The510realm is still down. The thread there on CV Conversion problems is excellent. Hopefully the site is back soon. I'll PM you with the consensus of the group. Jim... I was going to Knox. Not sure now. Hotels should be dirt cheap. Because the Highways in BC will be empty. No one can afford to drive to Vacation spots in BC anymore.
  8. Chickenman

    Another clunk post - ugh

    Z240... is that you Jim? Edit: Why yes it is. Still going to Knox? Bring a Tanker with some cheap Alberta fuel. You could make a killing. Frackin' stoopid NDP!!! $1.58.9 a liter for regular and still going up. $1.71.9 for 91 Octane. That's $6.88 per US Gallon for our USA friends. End Rant. Back on Topic.
  9. Chickenman

    Another clunk post - ugh

    ^Yep. Big problems with a lot of the aftermarket CV conversions. Exactly for the reason mentioned. Read the following article. Note: site was down for maintainence when I posted this. Edit: Correct link now posted. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=29907
  10. Chickenman

    36-1 trigger wheel placement

    You're going with an MS2 as I recall. Is that correct? What version Mainboard and firmware? But I think you are fairly close if memory serves me correct. You may be one tooth off. I can't remember is the Missing Tooth counts as #1 or not on EDIS. I'll check a bit later when you can confirm biard version number. Don't trust the timing damper. The rings can slip. Physically confirm TDC with a long thin Screwdriver touching Piston dome. Hand rotate engine and feel for Piston rising as it approaches TDC. At TDC piston will pause, then go back down. The pause section halfway between Rising and falling is actual TDC.
  11. Chickenman

    l28et Damper bolt different than others???

    NZ you don't know me at all. So stop pretending that you do. But keep on Trolling me... It's pathetic... but amusing at the same time
  12. Chickenman

    l28et Damper bolt different than others???

    Yep. That's pretty much my Rule of thumb also.
  13. Chickenman

    l28et Damper bolt different than others???

    Yep... seen it on Datsuns, Toyota's, BMW's and SBC.'s at various Race Tracks. Happens more on Road Race cars and Rally cars than Drag cars. Extended high RPM's and secondary vibrations are the culprit. Kinetic energy and general destruction from a Crank damper flying off at over 7,000 RPM is NOT something you want to experience. Edit. Red loctite on big bolts.The really critical fasteners that will result in death or destruction if it comes loose. Don't over use it. A drop or two is all that is necessary. You don't use High Strength Loctite on small fasteners because yes, you will snap them before the Loctite releases.. Proper Tools for the job. Proper strength Loctite for the job.
  14. Chickenman

    l28et Damper bolt different than others???

    You would be amazed what extended running at high RPM's will work loose. I've seen Accelerator Pump screws on Holley carbs back them selves off. And base plate screws work loose then fall into the Intake manifold. happens all the time. I use a Medium strength Loctite on those. Never had a single failure while racing. Rally cars have just about everything work loose if fasteners aren't Safety wired or use a Liquid retainer. Constant high RPM's and the pounding fro the roads and jumps took it's Toll. Guys who didn't Loctite everything or didn't use safety wire didn't finish Races or Rally's. You don't have to slather the stuff on. One or two drops is all that is necessary. I use High Strength Red Loctite on Brakes and suspension mounting bolts ( Usually a larger size fastener ) and Medium ( Blue or Green ) Loctite on the small stuff. You can't always go by colors. So always check the product Technical data. But I'll tell yah.. I've never had a driveshaft bolt or half shaft bolt come loose or any other critical bolt in over 35+ years of Racing and Rallying that was Loctited. I have had fasteners work loose that WERE properly torqued, had proper lock washers but Did not have Loctite or Safety wire applied. That only happened a couple of times before I learned my lesson.
  15. Chickenman

    l28et Damper bolt different than others???

    Take it from people who have actually raced these things. Well before the Internet was ever thought of. Put the Red loctite on. Especially if you are going to push the engine at all. Engine harmonics do bloody strange things. Nothing wrong with a little insurance. I lost a $1,200 Tilton crank in 1977 dollars because a stupid engine builder ( not me ) used the wrong bolt on a Tilton Crank pulley. Tilton Damper had a thicker hub. Required longer bolt. Engine builder did NOT use Red Loctite. Probably would have held fine if he did. And actually... bolts DO back out. That's wire Race cars also use Safety Wire. As do Airplanes. When your life is on the line you want to make damned sure that a critical bolt doesn't come loose from Vibration. Belts and suspenders every time.
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