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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed

    MSD 6A schematic?

    Necroposting to a Level 10 Necroposter. Apropos. Maybe the @ thing will work @jeffp
  2. NewZed

    100% New SU Carburetors for Our Z's

    Why are you not posting on classiczcars.com? Hybridz is the site where people are most likely to remove their SU's and sell them.
  3. NewZed

    L24 block question

    Add any head skimming to the program. Are these guys building the engine for you or just doing machine work? A good shop should be able to lay out everything that they think they need to do, before they even start. Piecemeal from the internet doesn't seem very quick.
  4. NewZed

    Help Identifying Distributor

    Points or electronic? Pictures?
  5. NewZed

    L24 block question

    They should be able to estimate the depth with some simple measurements. If it's just some pitting next to a water passage you could probably seal it with JB Weld. Don't conflate coolant pressure with cylinder pressure. Pictures would be neat. Might get some better advice. Edit - not that advice so far isn't good. Just more of it.
  6. These guys probably have what you're looking for. http://www.zspecialties.com/ https://zcardepot.com/oil-pump-drive-spindle-oem-280zx-turbo-81-83.html
  7. NewZed

    New to the Z world! Wanted to say HI!

    That would be old dead fuel then. I'm fairly sure that the carbs have drain cocks on the float bowls. These cars also have return lines from the carbs so if you run the pump you'll push that old dead fuel in to the tank. It will be diluted by the fresh gas but still worth considering. Good luck. The 260Z's have electronic ignition also. Pretty common for the ignition modules to die. In case you find that there's no spark.
  8. NewZed

    New to the Z world! Wanted to say HI!

    How did the fuel that you drained look? Clear, red and hazy? Did it smell like turpentine or gasoline? There are a ton of Z's out there with missing bumpers that look like incomplete kid's cars (no offense intended to those who are bumperless). Usually primer gray with in-progress body work. Please leave the bumpers and other parts on until you have all of the new parts and know that they will fit. Believe it or not the big bumper look might grow on you. That car looks in pretty good shape. Here's a link to a service manual and lots of other good stuff. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Links on upper right - http://www.xenonzcar.com/
  9. Looks like you should have an L83. Things got weird in the 80's with lots of variation, I've never heard of some of the L's. Still, it's a standard early small block chevy. The JTR kit and book should work fine, I'd guess. Those extra pins on the alternator are probably for ECU diagnostics. Not necessary. Good luck. Even with the intake it's probably down on horsepower but probably still a torque monster. A diff and axle breaker. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine#L83
  10. Build a similar plate to the one you already have but put it directly over the mounting points. Run some pipe up the plate, or build a structure from more plate. You could even use threaded pipe portions for pinion angle adjustment. Or tie it in to the tunnel. Removes the leverage problem and clears up a lot of space. Looks like you have the fabrication skills.
  11. First glance says that you have a bad MC. You'll get a firm pedal at first then the pedal drops when pressure blows fluid past a bad seal. The booster gives that extra force to blow the seal. Edit - I wrote something about how "new" reman's are often bad out of the box but it didn't get through for some reason. Weird. Anyway, there it is. "New" doesn't mean good.
  12. NewZed

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    Does it even run? Do you have a place to work on it? Not really enough info to say if it's worth $500. If it takes another $1000 to make it a daily driver, keep looking for a $1500 car that runs. Add up the parts you'll have to buy just to get it going. The "seal" on the front brake is going to need a new caliper. A decent battery is $100. If the tires are shot, that's another $600. Looks like the tires don't even match. It might just be a parts car. If you can't take it for a test drive, don't buy it.
  13. NewZed

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    There's no this.
  14. It's very often the bleed valve orientation. A bad booster won't cause the pedal to go to the floor. You either have bad seals in the MC, air in the hydraulic lines, or a mechanical misadjustment. The standard test for air in the lines is to see if the pedal will "pump up". Pump the pedal quickly several times and see if the pedal gets higher.
  15. Apparently the Tacoma is the closest North American variant. The HiLux isn't sold here. Might be worth a side-by-side comparison of the boosters. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux Seventh generation (AN10, AN20, AN30; 2004–2015)[edit] The seventh generation Hilux (AN10/AN20/AN30), part of the IMV program, started production in Thailand during August 2004.[17] Three pickup truck body variants were initially produced: a two-door Single Cab (referred to by Toyota as IMV1), a two-door Xtra Cab (IMV2), and four-door Double Cab (IMV3).[26] In September 2008, Toyota released the Smart Cab, a four-door with hidden rear suicide doors.[27] The IMV program also spawned the Toyota Innova (AN40) minivan (IMV4) and Toyota Fortuner (AN50/AN60) SUV (IMV5).[17] The similar Toyota Tacoma pickup truck, introduced in February 2004 for the 2005 model year, is based on the 4Runner chassis, while the AN10/AN20/AN30 Hilux rides on an revamped version of the ladder frame found on previous versions. The Hilux increased in size and then became classified as a mid-size pick up. Hilux models sold in Asian, European, Middle Eastern, and Oceanian markets are built and assembled in Thailand. .
  16. You can use "slew rate" ignition timing control. It changes timing if the engine RPM accelerate too fast. Edit - to be clear, it uses rev-limiting, in whatever form that is. One example - https://www.hotrod.com/articles/msd-ignition-traction-control/
  17. NewZed

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    A slide hammer, a long bolt, and some SteelStik would probably do it. The insides are all greased up so you wouldn't have to worry about gluing anything to the crankshaft.
  18. NewZed

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    AZC says drive shafts aren't ready yet. But then their whole web site is from the 90's so who knows. Good luck. http://arizonazcar.com/strassy.html
  19. NewZed

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    The black one was mentioned in the link, as one of the three. Three show cars. Should be interesting to see how the pieces hold up to 200 mph. It's hard to tell how well built the cars really are. The odd "I'm a 240Z story" seems to have been copied to many sites, like somebody building a brand, but it's hard to read. I couldn't finish it. I think that it might have been famous in a small community for a short while. Good luck with making it a performance car. The Modern Motorsports package is probably the most effective bolt-in product. Already tested and proven. That's what you're paying for, hence the cost.
  20. NewZed

    Tokico Shocks

    It's not done unless the charge is completely gone or you need "perfect".
  21. NewZed

    Tokico Shocks

    Dang, screwed up my post.
  22. NewZed

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    How did it become "famous"? I had to Google it and the stories seem to be from somebody talking about their own car. I'm not sure you're allowed to claim your own fame. Your description of wanting bolt-on only is why I tried to clarify. That's not what most people here would call best. They weld on a whim. I guess that you bought the black one? Or are you Jack? https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=19345
  23. NewZed

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    We neglected to abuse the OP for using the word "best". Best depends on the goals that have been defined.
  24. NewZed

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Don't mtnickel's adapters remove the requirement of shorter axles? Flipping the cages, adjustable control arm length and all of the other possible "fixes". The other big expense to that conversion. I seem to recall that some of the early adapters pushed the flange surface inward. Maybe even the one that Joe makes now. I'm just focusing on the OP's project, not the super duper drag racers. SUNNYZ and RebekahZ were doing hard core racing. Pretty sure that SUNNYZ was trying to break things.
  25. NewZed

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    You'd have 280Z axles. Lots of 280Z's out there with much more power than you're planning, using the stock hubs and axles. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/6