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Exposed

Exposed's 1jz Build

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Been slowing fixing up the interior of the car. Grabbed myself a pair of skillard door cards and they fit great, I didn't end up using the supplied nuts just put some aluminum rivnuts instead which seem to be holding up fairly well. I finally got around to laying some carpet which was purchased from MSA and it seems to be good quality and I redid the headliner in some vinyl. 
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On another note anyone know the color code for the 1jz valve covers? Cannot seem to find anything online and I cant use my valve covers to paint match because I redid them in black...
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Started removing my twins this past weekend, word of advice for anyone looking at removing them.
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Take both stock turbos off at the same time. I found the best way to do it was by removing the nuts circled in blue, once you have those nuts off remove the stock turbos and you can remove the nuts circled in red. (4th blue circle nearest to the rad should be red not blue)
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Underneath the car nearest to the front of car
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Underneath the car nearest to firewall
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just to double check, the hose circled in the picture below can be blocked off. and where do people normally run the hose from the water pump (second picture)?
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Edited by Exposed

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On 11/16/2017 at 10:45 AM, Exposed said:

Started removing my twins this past weekend, word of advice for anyone looking at removing them.
14jp05y.jpg

Take both stock turbos off at the same time. I found the best way to do it was by removing the nuts circled in blue, once you have those nuts off remove the stock turbos and you can remove the nuts circled in red. (4th blue circle nearest to the rad should be red not blue)
1072a2x.png

Underneath the car nearest to the front of car
2ekur78.png

Underneath the car nearest to firewall
jgjzag.png

23mvgbn.jpg

 

just to double check, the hose circled in the picture below can be blocked off. and where do people normally run the hose from the water pump (second picture)?
2jt6dk.jpg
x1y635.jpg

I did the same thing u did. In the process of getting it welded shut!

 

Good job on headliner. I am scared of doing it myself...lol Is it pretty easy?

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Very easy, I've seen them done two ways but not sure if either way is the "proper way". I just laid some thick Dynamat and used adhesive to get the vinyl to stick then stuck it to the roof.

 

this little guy came in the other day. Just waiting on a couple fitting and gaskets from driftmotion now then will start to assemble.

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On 12/8/2017 at 2:49 PM, Geno750 said:

That's the turbo I wanted to go with (or EFR8374). Couldn't pass up the S364sxe deal, but it's going to be a laggy bastard.

 

I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. 

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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:

 

I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. 

 

Wider tires and an LSD REALLY REALLY REALLY Help.

 

255/40R17 Firestone Oval firehawks (summer)

Mfactory LSD

 

Makes a big big difference!

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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:

 

I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. 

 

Oh, and I am using 1jZ bored out twins from driftmotion running 14 psi with 436 WHP....  fyi

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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:

 

I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. 

 

Living in the PNW..I feel your pain with wet traction..but for Dry traction I ran R888...holy hesus was she amazing in the dry!

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You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power.

 

Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later.

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yup I have a 2.5L block, from what I was looking at I think it'll come on in the mid rpms. Could be wrong though first time really looking at anything like this so it was almost like learning a new language :mellow:

 

did anyone have to modify the aluminum neck right below the thermostat? no matter what I did the manifold constantly bumped into it. I ended up just cutting it off so I'll have to reweld 45 or something similar onto it.

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On 12/11/2017 at 2:49 PM, seattlejester said:

You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power.

 

Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later.

 

Yeah, 2.5L here, but I have VVTI and a head that should still flow well enough for trips into 8500-9000rpm territory. Should produce a decent power band, and will be fun even off boost compared to the stock motor.

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Little update, received the manifold after welding was finished and also received some misc. things. Used a vibrant fitting from the engine to the oil inlet on the turbo, part No. listed incase anyone is curious bolt size that buttons up to the engine is M12x 1.25.

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oil drain flange looks to be well made and comes with an O-ring.

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Have a couple options for the oil inlet on the turbo, was thinking of using the flange. What does everyone recommend left or right?

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Oil drain is installed and looks to be about 1/2" away from the manifold. Should I be concerned about heat?

Vibrant says there hoses there hoses are "capable of handling operating temperatures ranging from -40 deg F to 300 deg F and elevated operating pressure of 500psi." 

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Edited by Exposed
doubled one of the pictures

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No need to reinvent the wheel, and drilling to get the flange installed and using gaskets isn't really worth it IMO, the threaded fitting should be fine. Do make sure to mark it somehow so you can tell if it backs off. My friend told me he found all of his loose one time, and I checked and found my feed loose. He carries a wrench now to check at gas stops, I put a little reflective tape on mine to see if it rotates.

 

The stainless and the aluminum fitting should be fine it is indeed the inside that is the concern. 

 

Some shielding wouldn't probably go amiss. Just make sure your shielding still has an air gap or else instead of having to fight radiative heat it has to also fight conductive heat.

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@seattlejester I was thinking about leaving it like that but I think I'm going to do a custom oil catch can and just run some -8an lines. Was thinking of fabbing up a catch can in the space between the battery and the passenger strut tower. I'll put that filter on the catch after. Already made my cardboard template.

Whats your opinion on leaving just the filter?

 

@Greeko lol 10 months of winter, sadly its true. and yes the TTT strut does clear the engine.

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@Exposed Oh well this is a fancy feature. With higher boost levels people have noted positive pressure in the crank case. With out positive evacuation from the crank case (crank case vents through head into valve covers) the positive pressure can push out the front main seal causing the dreaded FMS oil leak especially if it isn't installed perfectly. So some people say you have to run vacuum to the valve cover vents, as in to the inlet to the turbo or exhaust driven vacuum. Granted you don't want to pull oil vapors through the turbo people usually run catch cans inline to the vacuum source. 

 

People who run open air systems have reported front main seal leaks, most people usually don't find the problem until they go to do the timing belt and find a bunch of oil residue behind the timing belt cover. Some have gotten away with running a dip stick vent although not sure how effective that alone is. 

 

 

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