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Richard Oben

Richard Oben LS1 series 1 240Z build

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First I am in this forum a lot.  Without the pioneers before me we would never have taken on the job of putting an LS1 in a 240Z.  

I admit to being a car junkie, at one point there were 4 series one 240Zs at once, paired to two.

Have been in the car business over 20 years. www.northracecars.com if anyone cares we make stuff for FFR cars and for Fox mustangs.  If this inappropriate delete as needed.

FFR Daytona coupe replica 

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So it all started in the mid 80s with a series one car in my home town.  Bought it as it was less rusty than the mustangs before it.  In 92 bought 09070, not knowing anything about it other than I had been without one for several years.  Back to school and life stuff.

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I actually drove the car and then we started the restoration.  NO Rust

 

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Done. 9070 factory auto dealer air. August 1970 production date.  Just no grunt.

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We sold the GTM and started thinking about LS in a Z So for $500 we bought Ruby.

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Ruby had a sunroof so we fixed it first

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Ruby had too much rust too. 

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Ruby was sold so someone could save the front clip.  Good bye. 

Then came Leslie.  This is the first day, all stock six which was sold. 

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Fixing the floor surprising little rust for a local car.  

 

large.IMG_0284.JPG.e9f2ea670b4ee9e4c8557Under side of Leslie

large.IMG_0231.JPG.ea506e97f1136324d4094Sanding down to put in frame rails

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Fitting bad dog rails they are straight floor not so much.  lol

 

large.IMG_0235.JPG.5bb4857a09c5dcaff7c20Frame rail installed Don't laugh at my welding

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large.IMG_0535.JPG.6dd10421509731ae1deeaWe installed the bad dog rails figuring the car would just twist in half if we did not.  

On the to fuel system

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New top of tank

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To fill hole in tank.

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 Now that we filled the big hole the little one needs a pump.

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Pump has its own sump and sits on the bottom of the tank with the return going to the sump.  So far no issues  And I hate the sound of an external pump  

 

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Engine out fenders were not actually bolted on as the bottom of the rocker panels had not  been tapped for bolts.  In short the car was a mess.  

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We bought the kit from CX racing. complete and worth every penny in my opinion.  

Prepping for LS install.  Note all new stainless brake lines, fuel lines etc.  

We are in the highlight version of the build.  

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Rustoleum red is the same as Porsche red which is what this was supposed to be. Car was green originally.  And it has rear ended someone as the front aprons are welded back on.  A mess like I said.  

 

Put in the LS1 in.  I bought a wrecked 04 GTO, changed pans, alternator, shifter, swapped the clutch to and LS7 one, and had the harness cut down. All the stuff that needs to be done to make the swap. 

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John's cars AC set up is tight. but fits and works.  

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Getting closer

large.IMG_0642.jpg.41547238866e63ef47290So very sorry for the bad pic, but is a bad mount I cobbled to hold the 8.8.  Came from a 95 Lincoln mark 8.  We put 3.73 gears in and traction lock.  

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large.IMG_0611.JPG.f6e6e809f09767963a910large.IMG_0613.JPG.e2576e1ee448679d62f2dFront mount is from TTT.  

Waiting on Z car depot or Spitsnaugle to make a mount I am happy with for the 8.8

 

Modified the Datsun push rod to fit the Wilwood MC.

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To mate the 8.8 to the Datsun stub I bought the Z car depot ends and the DSS end for the 8.8 to fit the a 930 Porsche CV.  Mounted everything in the car and then measured for the axles.  Had them made and made a mess putting it all together.  

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ITS ALIVE 

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As it looks now. 

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It had 80 miles on it when we left for the hot rod power tour!  Went from KC to Des Moines to Davenport to Champagne to St Louis and back to KC did not do Indy or Bowling Green.  1300 miles later, had small oil leak fixed by tightening the by pass and filter, never figured out which was leaking.  Blew out the 40+ year old wheel cylinder on the left rear.  Other than that it performed great. 

 

There is so much I am leaving out but will edit as my time permits.  

 

In short CX racing kit.  Gauges from speed hut. JCI compressor. Vintage air mini, with a condenser my local gut sourced.  EZ wire main harness M&M cut down engine harness.  Factory headlight and turn signal switches.  From the outside and inside it looks like a 1971 240s with a fat exhaust pipe.  

 

Projects left to do.  Install proper 8.8 mount.  Springs and struts will be done at the same time as the 8.8.  Rear discs and 280 Z stubs (28 vs 24 spline). Finish interior.  Polish wheels a little.  All of which I hope to get done over the winter.  

 

Ask all the questions you want.  If you have a negative opinion leave it at home.  The amount of blood, sweat, time and money involved is mind numbing so keep any all negative comments to your self please.  

Edited by Richard Oben
saving as I went.

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We got the idea from another member here, can;t remember who it was but he had lots of problem with external pumps.  In the end, it was not cheap doing the tanks inc pump.  A couple of hundred in tank mods plus the pump.  But I would do it again in a heartbeat.  Everything is serviceable and sure you can hear the pump a little at start, after that it is like any other car.  I am never worried about running the pump dry.  There were a few decisions I would change but my goal on this project was to most of the stuff my self.  Had the harness dieted and tank welded.  I did everything else.  HTH, Richard. 

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Richard,  Love to see more information and pictures of your beautiful project car when you have the time.

                                                                                                                                                      Sunny

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On 12/12/2017 at 5:03 AM, Richard Oben said:

We got the idea from another member here, can;t remember who it was but he had lots of problem with external pumps.  In the end, it was not cheap doing the tanks inc pump.  A couple of hundred in tank mods plus the pump.  But I would do it again in a heartbeat.  Everything is serviceable and sure you can hear the pump a little at start, after that it is like any other car.  I am never worried about running the pump dry.  There were a few decisions I would change but my goal on this project was to most of the stuff my self.  Had the harness dieted and tank welded.  I did everything else.  HTH, Richard. 


I'm looking to do the same pump, but why did you have to mod the tank? Was it clearance issues on the top of the tank? Or does the pump not reach the bottom of the tank?

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Joe K  I mount mine in about the same place as the original harness.  Except is is on the side of the console.  If I were to do it again, I would mount it on the to the dash on the driver side.  Something behind the vent control.  The harness is designed to be there, we had to extend the driver headlight since we came from the pass side like the original Datsun harness.  HTH

 

 

nmehdikh, the tank top is up against the body at that point, really up against the body all the way across the top of the tank.  The pump would be in the trunk without the drop.  Pump is plenty long as is comes from tanks inc.  HTH, Richard. 

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So we decided to update and upgrade the rear mount.  We bought the Z car depot  8.8 Ford IRS mount system.  It is a nice nice set up.  Only problem, not built for a 240 or really for a Lincoln Mark 8 differential.  No problem, well a few problems.  

 

First thing we did was install the mustache bar mounts.  We shifted the diff forward and took off most of the rear mount hardware.  Sway bar had to come off, uprights had to come off.  It would have been better to start from scratch.  

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Second thing we did was install the rear diff mount;  It is a little low but it helped a lot.  Our axles were too angled and the diff was too far forward.  

I would highly recommend using the cover Z car Depot sells.  It fits like a glove any other mount would likely not fit.  

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Since the mount if for a 280 We had to drill new holes to line up with old strap mounts.  In the pic the original holes are very far apart, that would not work for us.  

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On the upper mounts we used Nut inserts.  These use a special tool, I didn't have the correct size so I used an allen wrench and a really good washer and a spacer nut and a regular nut.   We also had to remove some of the sheet metal that had been folded over.  

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This pic shows the mount installed on the Pass side.  The top is Nut inserts and the bottom is the factory strap nuts.  

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Last but not least we used solid mounts for the front as the Lincoln is much smaller on the front eyes than the Explorer.  The top is also sandwiched but it is had to see.  

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On last look from the front of the car.  

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If there are any questions.  Fire away.  Richard. 

 

 

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Richard,

       Looks like a nice installation!   Roughly how much did it cost you?   I am considering it for my car.   What rear gear ratio

are you going to run?   I would guess about 3.90 with a T-56 trans.   Is there a lot of these swaps out there?

                                                                                                                  Toolman

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On 3/6/2018 at 1:42 PM, Richard Oben said:

So we decided to update and upgrade the rear mount.  We bought the Z car depot  8.8 Ford IRS mount system.

 

Second thing we did was install the rear diff mount;  It is a little low but it helped a lot.  Our axles were too angled and the diff was too far forward.  

 

If there are any questions.  Fire away.  Richard. 

 

 

Did the axles still end up angled or did you get them back to perpendicular to the hubs?  

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Toolman.  Cost is a bit fuzzy.  To buy the mount from Z car Depot is about 700 by the time it is delivered.  We have done a lot of 8.8 stuff so I had the pumpkin and had the gears.  I would not use the Lincoln, I would use the recommended explorer.  We had the 3.73 gears already and they work well with the T-56.  We bought the 930 to 8.8 stubs, the 930 to 240 hubs, axles, CVs and boot kits all separately and If remember correctly, all that stuff added up to a fairly expensive list.  But done only once.  No idea how many are out there.  It was a preference for us, we did not want to go R200 or R230 or what ever.  We have 280 stubs for it so everything will be 28 spline when finished.   

 

New zed, Our axles were not perpendicular before, too far up and too far forward, but they are now, and better in both directions, visually perpendicular in both directions.  We also used same length axles on both sides.  The driver is a tight fit, I can still shift the axle in and out, but I will watch it closely.  The pass side is fine.  In retrospect I would have done the right mount (didn't exist when we did the swap) and then measured for the axles.  When I do the struts, brakes etc. we may shorten the driver side at the same time.  Re notch for the clip and cut the current clip groove off.   

 

HTH, Richard.  

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Posted (edited)

irs-securedCAMARO.jpg.7dfc8c0f460a2935f628c9d2a5d9886f.jpgCamaro IRS swap

            Richard, Thanks for the Rapid Answer.   Before I heard about some guys using Ford 8.8, I was thinking about putting in the whole rear suspension

from a late model Camaro and basically narrow it to fit.   That way you get a  beefier wheel hub( although 5 lug).   Also,  it would limit machine work to 

shortening both axles.   Most of late model cars use an independent rear with four  bolt mounting system so it could be possible.   I was looking for 

a wrecked Camaro so I could take measurements to even see if this swap was possible.  But I got diverted to the paint booth build and still got more 

rust work to do.   Anyway, somebody might already done the swap already.

                                                                                                                       Toolman

factory Camaro IRS suspension

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Edited by toolman
correcting text/pic

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Well, I drove it around yesterday.  I appears the vibration is gone. got up to about 70 in the neighborhood.  I thought something was wrong, the car didn't accelerate like i remembered or thought it should.  Well cold tires cold road and I figured out the problem,  Speedo said 50 car acted like 20,  wheel spin, a lot of it.  No more clunks in the rear, really no issues at all.  Very happy with the mount swap.  Now on to struts and springs.  

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Who made your axles and what are your lengths?  I just installed a 8.8 and I am measuring 13.5 for axle length.  Every time I search for custom 930 axles all I get is the off road stuff.  15 5/8th is the shortest I can find off the shelf.  Depending on the cost of custom axles I may just go the intrepid outer route.  

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Posted (edited)

Landistitman  I can't remember who made them.  I will try to find the receipt, I looked once and had no luck.  I did it both sides the same sides, which now I have the Z car depot it is a tight fit on the driver side.  I agree with you finding off the shelf stuff is a no go.    

 

Bo, all CX racing.  I have a T56, no idea if the auto would work.  The whole kit, Headers, mounts Exhaust all the to the bumper.  JCI is a bit weird about payment, once the initial purchase is done, ac mount for me.  He was very helpful with the rest of the stuff.  Like senders etc.  

 

 

Edited by Richard Oben
Clarity

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Update time.  Over the last few weeks, we replaced all the struts, all the springs,  added rear stubs from a 280 (28 spline vs 24), added rear discs, added adjustable rear arms, shortened the driver side axle and got it all back together.  Holy cow was it a lot of work.  Pulling apart old (really old) stuff was easy when I was younger.  I try to post a pick or two.  

 

My question is every LSZ tail happy? 

 

We used Eibach springs, KYB struts, Big front bar that came from another Z and an ST rear bar.  This has alway been a street car, just trying to make it a little more predictable.  May have to mess with alignment some more and/or remove rear bar, lower rear pressure.  Any thoughts.  I posted here as we are the LS Z crowd.   

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