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Jam nut for toe arm came in, dumb that it’s the only hardware that doesn’t come with the kit. New brake lines came in too. I might take this Friday off to finish up the suspension, and hopefully start on brakes.

Road Test and -Comments- The Firsr Road Test after the 8.8 Conversion went Fine. Normally, the car under under hard acceleration, a Shift into Secong Gear would cause the Right Side to break loose and the Rear End would start to come around. So I would have to back off the throttle or risk a Spin Out. With Torsen Gear, the torque was applied smoothly and evenly. The car handles well and controllable. However, when I returned to my garage and check underside of the car, I noticed a trail of grease above the Left Rear CV Axle. This grease trail was directly over the Left Inner CV Joint. So I jacked up the rear of the car, Removed the Left Inner CV Axle. After inspecting the CV Axle , I found a Small Tear in the CV Booot. The Hole was under the CV Boot Clamp so I figured the person who assembled the CV Axle must have cut it The bigger problem was finding a replacement CV Boot. I tried my local Ford Dealer, NAPA, OReilys, Auto Zone, Rock Auto and even Ebay. Nobody had it. Then, I remembered those Universal CV Axle Boots that allowed the mechanic to replace the Damaged CV Boots without completely removing the CV Axle. It saved the mechanic alot of Labor Hours. Those boots were pretty universal. An inventory of 4 to 5 these Universal Boots would fit many Front Wheel Drive Cars and even ATV. Even Snap On sold these Universal CV Axle Boots. Afrer Removing the Rubber Boot by taking the Boot Clamps off, You just remove the Large Snap Ring. Then remove the CV Joint. Once the CV Joint was removed, The Universal Boot was installed by stretching the boot over the axle. I just cut the bottom section of a oil funnel. With a little muscle, pull the Boot over the axle using the funnel to make it easier. The messy part was put the CV Axel Grease into the new boot. Finally , install both CV Clamps. Then, take the car for another test to check for more leakage.

Well, thanks! I appreciate it. it's a build in progress, from SU's on a stroker, to a Crown turbo kit in pieces..... that I customized the majority of for a DIY setup using a motorcycle Mikuni HSR 45 with a flat slide, to now EFI. I am just improving the system I have had, 1 step at a time. The Nitrous is just for looks. If I were to use Nitrous with the turbo, I am not sure the engine would survive......its fully forged, but throwing 2 power adders at it at the same time?.........Eh

Just curious, what made you go with a draw through setup instead of port injection? That saying I love the clean installation!

Can anyone provide copies of the build sheets for an Alpha 1 GTO kit? I bought mine in 1992 as installed on a '78 by Automotive Concepts in NC. For some reason the cowl cover was filled in to the surround so it is not removable and access to the cowl is limited to a slot from the engine compartment. Now I have water leaks to the interior and need to figure out the intended drain routing and/or alternatives. Would like to make the cover removable again, but don't know why it was done this way originally. Also, I installed a SBC over a number of years (I am a retired engineer, do my own work and had to replace floor pans, redo wiring, clean up the engine compartment, etc., etc., etc.). Now I need to recalibrate the tach with limited access behind and would like to know how the kit dash was put together and installed. So, build sheets would be very helpful for these and other "opportunities" to come, plus to add to my massive files. I have worked through many issues on my own and can provide suggestions and pictures to those interested. Thank you.

Got a few more things on today. This kit has tons of adjustability, just making some initial guesses on caster, bumpsteer, etc. a little bit of a puzzle with the hardware, some things you only needed if keeping stock subframe or other stock parts. I hope to have the rest installed next weekend.

Day 1 of installation. almost a 12 hour day and made some good headway. see below pics. click on pic.

Day 1 of installation. almost 12 hour day and got a lot knocked out. Pics below:

Here’s a few more pics of that plate with the impossible carriage bolts, I circled where they are. They definitely could have designed that better.

Heat advisory today, and I believe it, damn it’s hot. Started off replacing studs with APR extended studs then attaching 370Z wheel bearings to the custom spindle, did all that in the AC. Then to the outside, unboxed all the front suspension and got subframe, new plate for control arms and upper control arms up. Stupid plate was near impossible to install. It’s perfectly shaped to frame, bolt holes don’t align when carriage bolts are up, and plate doesn’t align and fit on when carriage bolts are down. Took forever halfway adjusting it, having my dad tap carriage bolts from top while I’m holding and aligning from bottom. Nightmare, but finally got it on. Hopefully the rest will go smoother. Did I mention I’m exhausted

just finished +6000km euro trip, whew it was hot down there. Would have been sweaty in datsun. found this type of momo steering wheels on sale in germany but they didnt ship to finland. ordered leather and suede versions to my friend in berlin and pick them up later.

08-15-2025. Again, more parts arriving and I got a piece of 16 ga. steel painted up and then assembled my fuel pump and filters and laid it out and marked for drilling.

Came with four almost brand new tires and the original wheels on also pretty good tires. The original wheels good use a repaint tho.

Beautiful Z, it’s in great shape for an almost 50 year old car. I like those wheels too.

Hello everyone and welcome to my 1977 280z project! I will be using this thread to document my journey with this car and all the little thing that will be done to it to ultimately restore and modify it to be my dream car. I bought the car last week at auction for the decent price of €20.500,- kind of on a whim as this has been my dream car ever since I first learned of there existence (thanks Wangan Midnight and the Devil Z, I know its cliché). Yes €20k is a lot of money but a mid-condition one sells for over €32k here in Europe nowadays. (You can see which side I tied up and which side my dad tied up 😂) What drew me to this car was the paint (absolutely not perfect and needs a repaint at some point but looks good enough for now), the goodies like new wheels and tires, new wooden steering wheel, factory 5 speed gearbox, R200 diff and the claim that the engine was rebuild 10 years ago. Although when picking up the car it turned out there was no documentation what so ever. The car runs and drives and is in fairly decent condition but currently has no valid inspection (called APK in the Netherlands) as the previous owner stats it’s because of the car running rich. Of course it has a cracked dashboard, some small surface rust forming and is missing bolts all over the car but these are all thing that can be fixed over time. For now my main goal is the fix some little stuff and get her on the road so I can start to enjoy the car. So naturally I placed the car on my Quick Jack lift and ordered a bunch of parts from Z-Services EU in France. There are a few thing I like to address before taking it in for inspection. The hood doesn’t open as the cable brackets are missing, the door hinges need rebuilding as the doors won’t close properly, some general maintenance and fixing some sweating oil seals around the car.

Actually, it appears you can still buy kits! https://www.dkhardware.com/asp-a-16-105-auto-keying-kit-product-4838272.html?srsltid=AfmBOopXhi66Ub5objUsVLlPIOtGXJCK2Tf8aZSSusaSLkTvPvIAvVgg https://www.locksco.com/buy/product/New-keying-kit-for-Datsun/CLENC8ae41abfed476c50acd2d7916a7fb627 If neither of those are in stock or don't ship, Star Road sells a kit with blank tumblers and a file. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/key-cylinder-re-key-kit-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-make-matching-key-on-your-own

Original locks can be rekeyed, but I know at least in the US, there are very few locksmiths that still stock the tumblers. If you're lucky you could maybe find an old school locksmith, or if you're very lucky you could find an old kit. If not, you can always file your own tumblers out of some brass sheet. Here's a write-up on the process of rekeying Datsun locks. https://ratsun.net/topic/47412-how-to-dissasemble-datsun-510-ignition-switch-and-rekey/

More parts came in today. Sniper 2 arrived, laid it all out, took some pics, and went ahead and used some thread sealant and put the pressure regulator together, and tried to take a pic of where it will be mounted. Psi gauge still in the mail. It will be "fun" making room for this HUGE sniper. There is a "hole" there, just have to get a couple cuts just right so everything fits. Took a few pics, first one is the "Master Kit" which is the fuel system, and it came with some NOS fittings.......then the entire deal and held it up on top of the intake and air cleaner....looks like I will be getting a thinner air filter to go in it, to clear the hood.

Cool but expensive. The chronograph is $3k USD.

Probably just fine. The polyurethane products were developed as a performance improvement. More precise steering, less wheel movement. The aftermarket will hype and sell whatever they can.

Hmm, well having the rubber and poly switched was pretty dumb of me. How much worse is it to have all rubber vs poly up front/ rubber on the back? This is a street only car

This has already been done a few years ago. Reach out to Jakub at Datsun Europe, he's running a zf8hp50 behind his sick turbo L and has a few adaptor plates left.

parts are pouring in.

ordered a 9" air cleaner and I decided I didn't want it chromed AND the sniper to be polished, so I took it to a local guy and had it blasted and powder coated gloss black to set off the sniper a bit. the bottom ring is only powdered where it can be seen, as it won't fit on the mouth of the sniper if the powder is on there...too thick. I think it will look ready good and contrast the polished stuff.

This thread is ancient so I'm just posting in case others come along in search of a solution. If you install the MSD 8920 as indicated by the OP and the tach only reads 200 rpm, here is what fixed it for me. At issue, reverse the wires to the tach. Connect B/W wire to red going to the 8920 and connect G/W to 12V switched. After this my tach was happy.