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The first engine was a stroker turbo engine where I had hopes of big power with the ProTunerZ manifolds. I wanted a turbo capable of high boost. This was is where the GTX3071R Gen II came in. Well having the wastegate hoses switched and a speed contest with a Toyota Camry TRD and to rich of a tune scuffed two of the six pistons. This toasted engine one, an expensive lessons learned the hard way.😆 It was dam fun to drive at 20 Psi! So Engine number two is a stock setup with 10 Psi and I finished the final intercooler design. Engine three and two years later is another stroker turbo with 88mm JRE forged pistons that I hope to finish the next two weeks. Its finally out of machine shop hell. The plan is to unbolt all the good stuff and move it over to this new engine. I hope the third time is a charm! I tell you all this to say the turbo has been one of the best parts so far it just works and works well at high or low boost levels. Its definitely a quality piece, but wasn't cheap. I did purchase it from Full-Race Motorsport Black Friday sale. I think it was 20% off. I enclosed a chart with several second gear full throttle pulls. Hope that shows you what your looking for. I also enclosed the compressor map from Garrett Boost advisor at 375HP. Garrett Boost Advisor GTX3071R Gen II Turbo 375HP I know when I first started trying to fit an air-to-water intercooler. I could get a smaller barrel intercooler to fit with the stock turbo and manifolds by replacing the J-Pipe and placing the Intercooler in its place. This would leave room for the stock AC compressor if it had AC installed. The reason I didn't go that route as its only rated for a max of 290HP. What you don't get from product description is a lot of tech specs about its cool capacity, so I passed one this one. When I went to the larger turbo and manifolds. I didn't have the room that I did with the stock setup. The compressor housing is bigger on the GTX3071R and this moved everything out against the shock tower. I wasn't a fan of cutting up my new compressor housing to weld a short 90 degree elbow on it. This is where I came up with the current design to pipe it down and up to the larger Intercooler to handle the heat of the higher boost levels. I just didn't have the room with the larger 600HP rated core between the strut tower and the engine. My recommendation is to mock the one your looking at in carboard and see if you have enough room between the engine and the strut tower. Good Luck!

first is idle, then carb. once the SM needles are in, you need a sync tool. if you need further help, I can make it easy to understand.

SU's on an L28, you need SM needles. I had the same problem. I set the idle at 20 degrees at idle with vacuum disconnected and plugged. then I added the SM needles. problem solved. The SU's are made for 2400cc's. you have 2800cc's. and the timing needs to be correct. The manual for the L24 is 18 degrees at idle with vac disconnected and plugged. I went 20 because I am at 6000 ft elevation. Again, I had the same issue. turn the screws down 1.5 to 2 turns. SU's are known for going lean at high RPM's.

Let that ship sail! Find another decent body for a few grand and save yourself a ton of time and money. I've seen many "resto plans" dye on the vine after the joy has passed, months and years go by and the person doing it burns out. Just my ywo cents!! Good luck.

Looking again at the pics.....if you don't want to dip it, no sense in really even trying to restore it. It needs it so desperately, you should do it, or just find another Z car IMHO.

the car body after acid is put into a vat of neutralizing solution, the car is completely submerged....hence there is no acid left to weep out. There simply is no other way to get all the rust out. The water gets into every single crevice there is. People talk about bare metal between pieces of metal.......it would be there either way.....these cars were built out of raw steel and THEN painted. The panels were not individually coated and then assembled. They didn't do it that way. The only downside to a dip is the amount of work to completely remove EVERYTHING from the shell....and of course the transport to and from. Some Z projects are SO rusty, I can't believe anyone wouldn't want to get all the rust off!

Metalworks in Eugene, OR is the closest place I have found to you and I (Los Angeles) that has full-car capability. I've only seen good reviews from them. I've seen the stories of weeping and paint being ruined just like you, but it's always "a friend told me he knew a guy" and never any firsthand or even secondhand evidence.

Who are you sending your car for dipping? I've heard some mixed things regarding weeping of it from the seams. Not trying to poo-poo it, i would've done it myself if it weren't so cost prohibitive at the time.

This is the one ive been looking at. https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-213.html I believe i have room on the intake side right by the strut tower to sneak it in . I'm not doubting that its working well. And the fact that your not seeing those spikes is due to the thermal mass of the intercooler and antifreeze thats in it soaking up the heat from the charge temp. I guess my thinking is when is a colder IAT not a good thing? And what are you trying to avoid by having it run all the time? If its noisy and it bugs you. Sure, I can understand that. Its only pulling a few amps and I just dont see a downside other than maybe noise from the pump. With that said. Ill leave you alone to your decision. I dont run megasquirt currently but it seems that the simple way would be on off with a relay that you could tie into which ever data point you want. There isnt going to be one right answer for this. When autocrossing I would want it on 100% of the time. On your turbo setup. How do you like that turbo? When does boost come in? That turbo has been on my radar for the future. Im not looking for a hp monster any more. I want 300 ish hp to the wheels on my wagon. Its a cruiser not a drag car! What i want is power lower in the rpm range. I wont be getting the protunerz manifolds. while nice i know i just wont spend the money on them. But I may be convinced to go away from my 2nd hand cheapskate tendencies to get a nice turbo for once.

Ditto. I think the major tech hurdle is the smart phone's gyro, directional and positional accuracy, which likely just isn't there yet to enable the measurement of tenths of degrees. Maybe @Sam Henao would like to chime in with test/user/anecdotal/etc data? This would be such an awesome capability if it worked as advertised.

I know this could sound a little out there, but this problem happened on our race car where it would not rev above 4500. The valve timing was one tooth advance, because the harmonic balancer had spun and the TDC zero mark was not at TDC after a rebuild. When we took the head off for the second time that's when we found the harmonic balancer mark did not line up with the TDC mark. Make sure your Harmonic balancer reads zero when the piston is at TDC and the top cam sprocket lines up with the cam bearing mark shown in the FSM for the correct valve timing. Hope this helps.

Calz: Thanks for the Recommendation. I do have an Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) Sensor between the Intercooler output and the Throttle Body input that is connected to the Megasquirt ECU. Jeffer949: My current engine is a stock L28ET set at 10 Psi and 440CC injectors operating at 6500 feet. The big upgrade was the Garrett GTX3071R Gen II ball bearing Turbo and ProTunerZ Intake and Exhaust manifold. It was a nice upgrade from the stock setup with very minimal turbo lag. I don’t know the HP level, but it’s been very reliable and fun to drive. I am almost done building my Stroker Turbo engine with 88mm JRE forged pistons and MaxSpeed Rods. I was thinking of turning up the boost a little more, but not to crazy as I daily the car to work if the weather is good. Let me clarify my Intercooler testing. I heat soaked the Intercooler with several boosted passes over 30 seconds to heat it up to 100 degrees with the pump turned off. I then turned on the pump to see how fast it would bring the temperature down to see how efficient it was at removing the heat out of the air stream. This is where the temp went from 100 degrees to 55 degrees in 15 seconds. Now to be fair I did this testing last month when it was 50 degrees out. How well it performs when its hot at the autocross is yet to be determined. I will say before the Intercooler I would see very high temperature spikes under boost and I am not getting that now with the Intercooler filled with Antifreeze. I enclosed a datalog that shows the RPM, PSI Boost, and MAT. You can see how the Intercooler is working under boost. Since I am not seeing big heat spikes under normal driving that’s why I want to turn off the pump until its needed. I have several choices to turn on the pump in Megasquirt. 1. TPS % position 2. RPM 3. MAP (kPi) 4. MAT Temp I am thinking TPS could be a better choice vs. MAT Temp to turn on the pump. Data log: The RPM is 6085, MAT is 69.7 degrees, and Boost is 9.9 Psi in a 3rd gear pull. I agree with you about the Intercooler blocking the AC mount on the left side of the engine. Being the car is a 71 240z it doesn't have AC, but my thought is to use an original 240Z right side AC bracket and convert it to use a Sanden compressor. Here is the link to the Intercooler and Radiator I used for the build.😀 https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/long-flow-style-water-to-air-intercooler-p-219.html https://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/air-to-water-radiator-p-1063.html

New exhaust for the 3.2 ! Serious drone issues from failing resonators made me go to a single thru the resonator . This resonator has a J pipe to help with the HZ 110 I had at 2200 rpm . With my tall OD this was an issue. I went with Borlas out back as big as I can fit so in the end I’m hoping for a quieter exhaust and less drone .

Thanks. Certainly light at the end of the tunnel now. Its been a long road. Will be 2000 hours labour in this restoration by the time its done. Will be in paint by the end of this month, then 5 days colour sanding and polishing, a few days putting the panels back on and windows in. After that its putting all the parts back in and making a new chassis harness to fit a PDM15 and get rid of the old glass fuses along with a tucked front chassis harness. Hopefully will have some life in it again before the end of the summer. But I can't see it being on the road until next year due to costs.

Welp. Got 550cc injectors installed and I'm pretty sure I spun a rod bearing trying to get this tune squared away. Not sure where all my oil went but I was a half inch below the dipstick. Would detonation cause this?. It doesn't seem like that's what was going on but I can't really explain it. How can one fuel cell be 10.5 afr and the next one goes full lean. Injectors made it better with some tuning but just as it started to smooth out on most spots. The engine made noise. I was an hour from home or more and I figured it was just the waste gate rattling on the inner fender.. fml. What can I do here once I rebuild it again to stop this from happening. I've heard knock sensors are like impossible to tune and to not waste my time. Back a long time ago chicken man helped me out with my base tune and told me that I believe. I was still going on his tune with this turbo and never saw it over boost. Afr would just go out of range and the car would surge/buck the diff.

On your setup, What size is your core and how much hp are you making? What size of heat exchanger out front? Like I said i like the idea. Id have to position things differently as yours is right where my ac compressor is and thats not going anywhere!!!

Hey. Ive been toying with running something similar as I dont want to cut up the front of my car (84 maxima). My question is why dont you think it needs to be running all the time? Per your testing you state that it takes 10 seconds to bring the temp down from 100deg to 55 deg. So your driving along(in mexico) and the intake temp is 75-80 deg and a car pulls up and you have a competition on who is faster. Your intake temps are going to spike well above 100 deg right away then your pump kicks on and 10 seconds later(if not longer as i doubt that test was done under boost) your intake temps get under control. Any delay in the cooling will a hurt performance. My car currently has no intercooler and at a low 7psi my intake temps can go into the 160-170 deg in well under a second of boost. An intercooler isnt there to remove heat after the fact like a radiator. Its there to remove the heat before it goes into intake. sure use the MS to trigger a relay but id keep it on any time the car is running.

Got some good progress this weekend, finally pulled the motor and transmission!!! Exciting milestone, this is going to open up a lot more stuff to work on. First time ever doing that too, this build will have a lot of firsts for me.

I think PWM control based on intake temp would be the best, but I'm assuming you don't have an intake temp sensor?

The right side door had rust along the bottom edge seam, indicating that the door skin had probably been replaced and the seam was rotting out. So we folded the seam open and removed both door skins and the 11 lb. door beams. Blasted away the rust, fast-etched and painted the inside with rust encapsulator paint and sealed the seams with epoxy and folded them back.

@EF Ian, everything looks fantastic and appears that you're in the home stretch now. Looking forward to your next post plus [at some point] a driving video1

Here are some links to how to wire up an HEI module if you decided to try it. You can do it all from the engine bay, no need to get inside the old module. It is just unplugged. I think that you might have to join to download the full documents, but the thumbnails have the schematic. Used to be free over there but now there's a charge. There are old posts on the forum about it too though. Good luck. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/124-instruction-fitting-a-4-pin-hei-module-to-280z-1977-revdpdf/

Work on this has continued: I went over the whole engine, looks great now: All metal work was finished Most bodywork was finished # Interior Painted Engine Bay Painted Underbody Painted Back on its wheels Full body will soon be in paint.

Thanks for being the guinea pig for this. I was hoping for better results.

Most car companies are going to have a switch operated off of intake temperatures is my guess. If you want it basic, you can put it on a toggle switch and then turn it on and off as needed and maybe add an intake temp gauge to the cabin somewhere. Another option is maybe tee off of the electric fan and let the fan operation also turn the intercooler fan on and off? Call Godzilla Raceworks in Texas and ask them what they think.