All Activity

On your setup, What size is your core and how much hp are you making? What size of heat exchanger out front? Like I said i like the idea. Id have to position things differently as yours is right where my ac compressor is and thats not going anywhere!!!

Hey. Ive been toying with running something similar as I dont want to cut up the front of my car (84 maxima). My question is why dont you think it needs to be running all the time? Per your testing you state that it takes 10 seconds to bring the temp down from 100deg to 55 deg. So your driving along(in mexico) and the intake temp is 75-80 deg and a car pulls up and you have a competition on who is faster. Your intake temps are going to spike well above 100 deg right away then your pump kicks on and 10 seconds later(if not longer as i doubt that test was done under boost) your intake temps get under control. Any delay in the cooling will a hurt performance. My car currently has no intercooler and at a low 7psi my intake temps can go into the 160-170 deg in well under a second of boost. An intercooler isnt there to remove heat after the fact like a radiator. Its there to remove the heat before it goes into intake. sure use the MS to trigger a relay but id keep it on any time the car is running.

Got some good progress this weekend, finally pulled the motor and transmission!!! Exciting milestone, this is going to open up a lot more stuff to work on. First time ever doing that too, this build will have a lot of firsts for me.

I think PWM control based on intake temp would be the best, but I'm assuming you don't have an intake temp sensor?

The right side door had rust along the bottom edge seam, indicating that the door skin had probably been replaced and the seam was rotting out. So we folded the seam open and removed both door skins and the 11 lb. door beams. Blasted away the rust, fast-etched and painted the inside with rust encapsulator paint and sealed the seams with epoxy and folded them back.

@EF Ian, everything looks fantastic and appears that you're in the home stretch now. Looking forward to your next post plus [at some point] a driving video1

Here are some links to how to wire up an HEI module if you decided to try it. You can do it all from the engine bay, no need to get inside the old module. It is just unplugged. I think that you might have to join to download the full documents, but the thumbnails have the schematic. Used to be free over there but now there's a charge. There are old posts on the forum about it too though. Good luck. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/124-instruction-fitting-a-4-pin-hei-module-to-280z-1977-revdpdf/

Work on this has continued: I went over the whole engine, looks great now: All metal work was finished Most bodywork was finished # Interior Painted Engine Bay Painted Underbody Painted Back on its wheels Full body will soon be in paint.

Thanks for being the guinea pig for this. I was hoping for better results.

Most car companies are going to have a switch operated off of intake temperatures is my guess. If you want it basic, you can put it on a toggle switch and then turn it on and off as needed and maybe add an intake temp gauge to the cabin somewhere. Another option is maybe tee off of the electric fan and let the fan operation also turn the intercooler fan on and off? Call Godzilla Raceworks in Texas and ask them what they think.

Hello HybridZ folks, I need some recommendations on my 1971 240Z Turbo on how to drive my Bosch Intercooler water pump with my MegaSquirt V3.57 ECU. This is the first time I have setup an Air-To-Water intercooler. What I really like about this setup is the cooling ability of the Intercooler and the very short intake track from the turbo to the manifold. My question for the forum is how to drive the pump as I don’t know how the OEMs do it. The Bosch pump (0392022002, flows 317 GPH, and pulls 3.2 amps) is used on Ford supercharged Mustang Cobras. I could use an On/Off setting or PWM configuration. It doesn’t make sense to leave the intercooler pump on all the time. Currently I just have a switch on the console to turn the pump on and off. Possible MegaSquirt configuration options to drive the Intercooler pump is (On/Off or PWM). Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output) to turn the pump On/Off at an air temp of 90 degrees. The MegaSquirt will provide a ground to the Intercooler Pump relay. 1. On/Off Control: Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output using Inj G) to turn an external relay on to turn the Intercooler Pump on with the MegaSquirt below. 2. PWM Control: Configure the Water Injection option for PWM (PumpOutput using Inj G and Valve Output Inj Bank 1). Pump Output controls the external relay on and Valve Output supplies PWM ground for the Intercooler Pump. Setting the Valve Speed to fast will pump to operate properly I hope. I found this setup on the MSEXTRA site from "Prof315" controlling a Water injection pump not an Intercooler pump. System Diagram Here are some pictures of my design that changed over several months. From a performance standpoint I let it heat soak until the intake air was 100 degrees and turned on the pump and it cooled the intake air to 55 degrees in 10 seconds. It seems to work very well and has a quite operation.

NewZed, I appreciate the advice. I'll see if I can return the MSD unit. If not, knowing that I need to use the magnetic pickup install is VERY good to know. Thank you!

Looking to buy a spare set of Z31T CV Axles. Finding them hard to locate, given I do not live in America.

Have you already bought the MSD box? A GM HEI module will do the job too and be cheaper. The MSD boxes have been known to be difficult. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes they work but the tachometer stops working. You would want the MSD instructions for the "magnetic pickup". Two wires. That's what the Hitachi system uses. Actually, there are a few tests that you should do to make sure that the pickup coil is working inside the distributor. The pickup coil can go bad. The air gap can be wrong. If it's broken the MSD box won't work anyway.

If your SU carbs were not modified to allow for the larger displacement motor, you might have a fuel problem. Meaning the carb needs to provide a richer mixture to run properly. You can try smaller SU metering rods which would provide a richer fuel mixture. But doing this may still not provide a rich enough mixture as the SU bore size maybe too small.

I have a 1974 260z that has no spark. While I don't know where the problem is, I thought it would be most reliable to swap out the Hitachi Transistor Ignition (E12-05K, single distributor pick-up) for a MSD Street Fire Ignition (PN5520) box. I called MSD and they hung up immediately after I told them what I was trying to do. So, I'm assuming I need to disconnect the Hitachi ignition box and take the ceramic resistor out of the circuit and just wire it as if I replaced points with a solid state distributor pick (diagram attached). Does this sound correct?

Go to ZTherapy and buy this video: “JUST SU’S” British HS6 and Hitachi “SU” https://ztherapy.com/just-sus/ Watch the video until you name every part and understand how the SU works. You are experiencing a lean condition. Note that the throttle shaft on the SU tends to wear out allowing air to leak into the carb causing a lean condition. This air leak makes proper mixture adjustment impossible. Contact Ztherapy for the fix.

So I have a dumb question about R180 and R160 Subaru Differentials. I want to swap in an LSD diff but I am hazy on a few details. The first question is what year Subaru LSD diffs can I use for the swap? Posts and stuff I have read just say use a "K" differential. That brings up the second question. Can I swap the "buttons" from my Z Open diff to keep the stock bolt in axles or is it 100% nesisary to swap the clip style axles that they sell? Then the other questions are about possibly swapping mine for an R160 LSD diff but cant seem to get a clear answer about whether I need axles from a 510 to make it work? I read that the 240z axles are too lo g but that being said. Can they be machined to fit an R160 LSD Dfferential?? Any help would be awesome!!

well, there are a few things to figure out. Are you going to have a hydraulic clutch or just a normal cable clutch? The Tremec transmissions are really nice and I recommend those. Mike Forte at Forte's Parts Connection in Massachusetts is a real good guy and could set you up with a complete kit. You will need an engine flex plate, a flywheel, flywheel bolts, a clutch kit with throw-out bearing and sleeve, a transmission, A shifter, shift boot and shift knob, A transmission mount, and a U joint to attach to a shortened driveshaft. JTR (Jags that run), has all of this figured out, and you really just need to call them and get the skinny on what to do. Lastly, you will need to be able to hook up your speedometer to the trans, so ask about that as well. Click on this to start: JTR Stealth Conversions V8 Swaps Forte's Parts Connection: click below: Forte's Parts Connection

Z Trix bodywork was a custom fit all the way. We trimmed the rear fenders along the top shoulder, then scarfed the back side along the edges to get it to blend into the existing panel. Applied a seal coat, then bonded them on. The front fenders required quite a bit of work to get the hood gaps right. Lots of small problems to solve, but it came out well. I'll let the photos tell the rest.

Que Paso?

Bonjour je déterre le sujet presque 10 ans plus tard mais je me demandait, pourquoi le pas prendre le systeme attessa déjà existant sur les 300zx ( que au Japon) et prendre une 300zx avec le système hi-case et coupler les 2 ? je demande parce que j'ai le projet de faire ça actuellement .

Did more work in the ITBS . I’m mocking stuff for test runs to see what might work and what might not . Goal is a decent MAP signal up to 30% throttle and be able to run brake booster and PCV . I thought the PVC would work for the PCV - lol. Just all temporary fun. The base plate will be trimmed down to about 6” . Running 1/4” vacuum lines to this 1” log . It might be a bit big but I want it to do a lot Final iteration might be 2 vacuum logs . Maybe ready to fire in a week or so

With the SU's, I would go with SM needles, turn the mix screws about 2 turns down from the top, re-sync the carbs, and verify ignition. should have 18 degrees advance at idle with the vacuum disconnected and plugged. ~Joe

do you have an adjustable fuel regulator? If so richen it up a tad and take it out and see if it helps.