All Activity

Those hairline rotor cracks are common when running giant rotors. Even though you are getting very little rotor wear due to the size of the brakes, the heat cycling eventually forms the cracks. I've ran them on track probably about twice as bad as your pictures.

I was considering their hood and hatch replacements instead of patching mine up. Does anyone have any experience with those items?

Small jobs today- Replaced that short hardware on the front rotors to hubs I mentioned in a previous post. Included Pic is the size difference. Brakes didn't feel particularly unsafe on my few drives around town, but always better safe than sorry with the most important things like brakes. Second pic shows how the new hardware actually goes all the what out to the wheel mounting surface to engage as many threads as possible Next small job before the correct rear brackets arrive is re-adhering a part of the headliner that is sagging a bit. I think the adhesive didn't cure properly when I installed it forever ago and the intense heat on the roof at one show made it droop. Only fix is to reapply but fortunately it's easy since the rest of it is already adhered well and lined up. Hardest part of the job is centering it

Hello, Are you using fresh fuel. Fuel will go off over time.

So, the heat issue has caused me to go ahead and order a 3 row aluminum radiator with dual electric fans. I decided to get one I found on Amazon, made by CB Auto - which is in CHINA. So, half price of others and looks to be okay. I also went ahead and got an anode made of zinc that screws into the drain petcock. This is what allows the minerals to attack it instead of the aluminum in the radiator. I also will be switching my thermostat to a 160 degree one I ordered. Since I have had good luck with the chinese parts I have used, we will do this. factory video, click here: https://www.amazon.com/vdp/048db201f503475ea5ee22731531c6e1?product=B0BQGTGGL4&ref=cm_sw_em_r_ib_dt_8D3hq5NBWLJy6

I have, in the past, placed the plug wires on my L28 280Z engine in reverse rotation order. #1 was correct but the rest were placed in clockwise rather than counterclockwise order. The engine started and ran but it ran terribly. Since I had only replaced the wires as a tuneup on an engine that ran well I knew immediately that I had screwed up the firing order somehow. It must have been running on only two cylinders. 1 5 3 6 2 4 1 4 2 6 3 5 In short, maybe doublecheck your plug wire placement. Good luck.

I have not tried bypassing the box yet, but that’s a good call.

Small update from T3 - Called today about the bracket issue, and their service guy on the phone told me the new brackets would get shipped out today. While bleeding the brakes yesterday to get a head start on some of the work left so they'd at least be close I noticed some fluid dripping from the opposite side. After inspecting it looks like the flare for the -3 end on one of my hoses was cracked. I ordered some new ones myself since I don't know if it was an installation error, but it's just one more thing wrong with the rear end. Despite shipping today I know they might be getting it out late enough that it won't actually leave California until tomorrow. Hopefully by Thursday I have a driveable car again. Two weeks until I leave on a road trip

Thanks, Tom, will add a little more fuel. I noticed my cold -> warm cycle follows a pretty predictable AFRs curve per the table and my manual tuning I did at idle a while back (I was aiming for 13.5-13.7). Things go out of wack somewhat when I restart a hot engine, the AFRs are leaner until they stabilize later on.

Have you tried running w/o the MSD box?

Some of their stuff is good and some is hot garbage. Max the owner doesn't stand behind his product and has a tendency to try and blame "modifications" to your car as the reason. I have a lengthly (4 page) post on classic z car about my problems with his door assemblies. Resurrected Classics door problems I have their door weather strips and their fuel filler neck and the are excellent. My advice is no matter what you buy test fit as soon as it arrives and go from there. The doors were so bad that I ended up not using them. Max refuses to refund my money so I make sure to take the time to tell people about my experience. Do not trust what he says as he says whatever he needs to to get out of doing the right thing. Caveat Emptor with this guy for sure.

Hi I am currently building my 260 Z 5.3 with a 4L60E. My question is what did you use as a transmission mount. Did you custom make one? and is there a way you can share some pictures.

Reach out to Eichi at Datsun Spirit. He is on your side of the country. click: Home | Datsun Spirit, Inc. - Datsun Parts, Engines, Restorations.

another video just listening to it. click below: V2.MOV

click below for quick video: V1.MOV

07-13-2025. HEAT. That was the issue I ended with the other day, so some insulation for the turbo I ordered on Amazon came in and I went ahead and installed some over the hot side (turbine) and end piece where the wastegate is. In doing that I removed the brake master cylinder heat shield and hit it with my buffing attachment in my electric drill with some Mothers mag wheel polish......not very good end product, but better than nothing. I also got rid of the screw holding it in place on the top bracket by drilling a hole and using a bolt with nuts and a washer to get it right. I took a bunch of pics, then took it for a ride. My work didn't solve the heat! Someone mentioned going from my stock 180 degree thermostat to a 160 degree one, so I found one on amazon for under 10 bucks and ordered it, and I am waiting for a new speedo cable as well, as my 53 year old original broke. When I got back from a drive I checked the temps of things under the hood, and the area I insulated was half as hot as the other day, but the engine still is running so hot. The tune is rich which makes engines run cooler and the hood is always open a hair now to cool it as well. the last pic is a spot where the insulation actually burned a dark spot! How would that happen? It's rated for 1100 degree continuous heat. Did they lie?? I just don't know what to think. Any ideas?

Hey friends, I’m pulling my hair out chasing a tuning issue and I’m hoping someone can please help me. Here’s the setup: 1972 240z with a rebello 3L with triple Weber 45’s, 280zx matchbox distributor with mechanical advance and vacuum disabled, MSD 6AL2 ignition and blaster 2 coil. 65F9 idle jets which is what Dave sent the motor with years ago and tuned on his Dyno, so I believe the idle jet selection to be correct for this motor. It’s been running rough at idle and lean popping through the carb throats which is typically a symptom of a lean idle, so I richened up the mixture screws, but that did not fix the popping through the carburetors. I’m also getting an extremely rich air fuel reading between 10 and 11 at idle. After using an infrared thermometer on my headers only cylinder number 4 is getting up the temperature, about 475° and the other cylinders are running between 100 and 350° at idle. When I pull the spark plug wires off of the spark plugs with the engine idling I get no change in idle quality when cylinders 3, 5 and 6, are disconnected, meaning they are either fully dead or only firing intermittently. I believe the rich AFR is at idle is due to these cylinders either not firing or firing intermittently dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. I have the base timing set at 18°, but if I advance the base timing, the RPMs will keep climbing and it will run better and better all the way up to about 40° base, however, this has no effect on the dead cylinders and doesn’t cause them to come back online. Heres what I’ve done so far to diagnose / rule out. Confirmed balancer mark is at zero when cylinder one is at tdc. Confirmed valve clearances on all 12 valves Ran both compression and leakdown tests. Compression is 210 across all six cylinders and there is no leakdown on any of the cylinders. Verified firing order / spark plug wires running to correct cylinders. Put a timing light on each of the six spark plug wires and confirmed none of them are skipping. Removed all idle jets and carriers, blew them out with air and visually confirmed they are free of any obstructions. checked for vacuum leaks at carb and manifold. Swapped carbs around and symptoms didnt follow the carb. Replaced Coil, Spark plugs, plug wires, Distributor cap and rotor. Added a ground strap to engine block. Confirmed good power and ground to MSD box. None of this has had any change and at this point, I’m totally scratching my head. Does anyone have any ideas?

I haven't used them personally, but a friend of mine has and had no issues with his interior parts. Fit was fine, plastic was a bit stiffer than the original. No complaints AFAIK.

Progress today was slow because I ran into some further complications with adding a shroud along with the fans and radiator. Adding a shroud to my plan has made things more difficult. After much thought, I measured out and bent up a custom shroud. At the top, the shroud is spaced 1" from the fins. At the bottom, it is spaced only 1/4" from the fins. This was done to get a bit more clearance. So, it angles a bit from top to bottom. Additionally, I had to offset the fans so the top edge of them sits above the top edge of the shroud. This allowed me to get clearance at the oil pump belt. To cover the area where the fan extends above the shroud, I made a little aluminum extension. I plan to weld it to the shroud at the top. I will make another for the second fan and weld it in as well. At the lower part of the shroud, I will install some rubber flaps of some sort so that area will not just be a wall where air can't get through the radiator. I am going to replace the studs in the water pump (that hold on the pulley) with bolts instead. That will add about 3/16" more clearance to the fan. Additionally, I think I will need to put a strap on the inside of the shroud to strengthen it at the middle - this will be my attempt to keep it from getting pushed back (flexing) at high speed, and moving the fans closer to the rotating parts of the engine.

Tons of work this weekend getting the new axles and rear discs in. The HD outer from futofab were by far the most time consuming part between removing everything, cleaning, cutting for clearance of the new outers, recleaning, the making sure the inner bearing and seal were properly seated. Probably spent about 5-6 hours total just doing that. The axles are greased and in place and I've been cleaning up the garage after all the mess. I was really exited about how things were looking then I realized the rear calipers looked wrong. They were offset a bit too much from the rotor. Checked again and it was super obvious the pads were only contacting the rotor with a bit over half their surface area. Checking the pics on the site it seems clear they sent the brackets for their regular rear brake kit. I'm incredibly frustrated because I did all this work leading into the weekend and now the car is unusable for a few days as a result. I was scheduled for tint on Monday and I'll probably have to cancel. Really hoping they can rectify it and send the correct brackets as fast as possible.

Comprative estimates from other AI platforms

Den here are the answers to your two questions. 1. I didn't think (Leave Valve Closed Above:(rpm) - 7,000) would make any different so I kept the default. 2. I haven't had any hot start issues as my hood has two rows of louvers in it. They came with the car when I bought it. I think this really helps with starting and keeps the under-hood temps down. Looking over the log at Idle I would fatten up your fuel at idle more to bring down the AFR. If you look at your EGO Correction the max it can correct is 8% starting at 40 seconds in. It continues to run at the max correction at 108% during the log you sent. You could add an EGO Correction gauge on your dashboard and monitor how close it is to your target AFR and adjust your Fuel VE table 1 until your AFR Correction is at 100. Currently your AFR target 1 is set to 13.7. Here is what my gauges look like on my main dashboard. Hope this helps, Tom

Heat wave going on here +27 in the shade, had to test how hot this can go on normal driving. that small 10" fan goes on 87celsius and it can keep it cool in the city, second large CFM fan goes 92celsius. oil coolant pump goes on 85celsius and highest i saw was 92celsius, 96celsius goes coolant fan

3000 RPM is when I can give it the gas. Prior to that have to slowly ease into the power, so the carb can keep up. add gas easy and steady, let off easy and steady. Motorcycle carb with about a 1.5" gas pedal range. It definitely feels like a 2 stroke power band! engine has a longer stroke, so the mid range is very strong, and at 3000 even half throttle you are REALLY moving....and it REALLY snarls if you floor it.

ChatGPT. For those of you who haven't used it, it is Artificial Intelligence.."A.I.". I entered all the information on my engine everything. It has given me an estimate of the power my Z car engine should make at 6 psi.....which is what I saw yesterday on the gauge when I let off. I really don't want to add more boost , as I already have 11.54 to 1 compression, 20 degrees timing at idle with vac disconnected and plugged....and run her on 91 octane pump gas. I got it running well on this setup, and YES my knock sensor...I have seen it "intervene" twice. (pulls timing up to 10 degrees based on the severity of the knock it picks up) also keep in mind, that even though I have large diameter wheels which throws the rear gears off, I have 4:11 gears before them so it puts the power that IS there down nicely. Power wise, It could be less, but kind of a fun thing to see what the computers "educated guess" is: numbers seem low, but it's a light car and geared down, so "seat of the pants" says it runs pretty hard!