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Kameari High Performance Oil Pump worth it?


Guest 280ZForce

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Guest 280ZForce

I originally tried to order the high pressure oil pump springs from MSA for the stock turbo oil pump back in April and they told me they were on back order and would get them in 2 weeks... Was also told to wedge some washers behind the stock springs, but I want this done right.

 

Well, almost 8 months later and they are still waiting to get them, I've lost hope on those now.

 

BUT have since seen the Kameari high performance oil pump available now.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC03E/17-8032

 

Any one have any info or experience with it? Pros/Cons? Should I consider this for my build?

 

Thanks - J

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Is there something wrong with your oil pump other than wanting a higer pressure spring on the relief? Its very common for engine builders to modify oil pressure by shimming the relief spring. I've done it on many engines for one reason or another. However, if the spring is well used and gone "weak", the shimming it would be a temporary fix as the spring has allready lost some of its temper. Just my opinion, but I've built more engines than I can count, and never had a problem doing this.

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Guest 280ZForce
Is there something wrong with your oil pump other than wanting a higer pressure spring on the relief? Its very common for engine builders to modify oil pressure by shimming the relief spring. I've done it on many engines for one reason or another. However, if the spring is well used and gone "weak", the shimming it would be a temporary fix as the spring has allready lost some of its temper. Just my opinion, but I've built more engines than I can count, and never had a problem doing this.

On my last engine I was getting fluctuating oil pressure, not sure if bad or not but sometimes I would see over 99+ psi under boost. Then other times it would be fine, then other times it would seem a lil low.

 

I had the pump inspected and they couldn't find anything wrong with it, but since then I've had the whole engine redone more extreme and will be tuning for 500+ whp easily and just want it all done correctly.

 

I beleive shimming the stock springs is a guessing game only because you don't know really how many psi you are adding to the spring.

 

But please correct me if I'm wrong, I just don't want to go through all this with an awesome build and skimp on the oil pump if it's something i can prevent.

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You can also install a bolt and a jam nut so that you can adjust the pressure without having to pull the plug on the oil pump. That's what I have.

 

I also have one comp and one stock spring. 2 comp springs was maxing out my oil pressure gauge when the engine was cold and was still giving too much pressure after things warmed up.

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Just to fill in the knowledge for the thread, high pressure oil pumps are NOT always an upgrade but can cause more problems than the solve. Although most race cars use such an item, they also have their engines built with a larger gap between the crank journals/bearings and the crank. This combination results in better oil flow past the bearings and still provides enough oil for the top end.

 

If you JUST use a high pressure pump the increased effort to run the oil pump can cause exess wear on the pump drive gear. For engines where the distributor is driven by the cam and a drive shaft turns the oil pump, the distributor gears will suffer. In extreme cases I have heard of the drive shaft being bent like a pretzel when a high pressure oil pump as used and the engine builder failed to install a high strength drive shaft as well.

 

Hope this helps.

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You can also install a bolt and a jam nut so that you can adjust the pressure without having to pull the plug on the oil pump. That's what I have.

 

I also have one comp and one stock spring. 2 comp springs was maxing out my oil pressure gauge when the engine was cold and was still giving too much pressure after things warmed up.

 

do you have pics of your setup? I would love to see them. peace.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went through the whole process of the Nissan pumps. First off the turbo pumps I have found from every company is the same stock Nissan unit.

The only other pump available is the millings pump. The turbo pump number is M111 it has the 45mm drive assembly, instead of the standard 40mm drive assembly. In fact this is what the difference between the turbo pump and the standard pump. The LD engine has an even smaller drive assembly as I understand it, but I have not disassembled one to make sure.

 

I modified the Millings unit. and blue printed the part and tightened up the tolerances some. The final test was in the oven @ 270 degrees temp and I double checked the tolerance and it was .002 end play.

 

So this helped out my idle pressure. I always thought 10 psi @ idle was a little shy for the engine.

I installed the bob sharp springs, and I still had to shim them to the desired full pressure setting. You don't need special springs, just get a flat washer and place that in the tightening nut and that should give you about 55-60 psi @ 7K rpm's that will work well.

I say go with the millings pump, because I think I got mine for about $70.00 out the door. That is the cheapest you will find for any l series pump. Then you can if you want tighten up the tolerances for better idle pressure, install the spacer (flat washer) shim and go for it.

I will caution you on one thing, USE the STOCK nissan gasket, the after market gaskets are thicker and that will change the tolerances of the drive gear end play.

hope that helps.

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  • 8 months later...

Is the Melling ~$100 pump (P/N M-111) still the best option for us out there? Anyone wanna chime in after some more time on the pump, etc.? My '77 N-42/N-47 car with -4AN fed Holset runs about 4 psi at hot idle. Not going anywhere with it until I fix that (obviously). Pinching off the Push-Lok oil feed line brings it up to about 9~10 psi.

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Here's an adjuster I made up. Its just a half inch fine thread set screw that I machined a spring perch on one end. Then drilled and tapped the cap. Not shown is is a thin brass sealing washer to keep oil from leaking past the adjusting nut. The nut is jam nut for a spherical rod end I had laying around which was pre drilled for safety wire.

Phred

Zadjuster (Medium)_thumb.jpg

Zadjuster2 (Medium)_thumb.jpg

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