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Update : I had been fighting an erratic wideband on the rear collector -cylinders 4-6. Well it turns out I still had a leak at the collector which is before the O2 sensors - dammit . This is a Z story header and collector . The collector pipe was modified for my exhaust and I thought I had the flange true , but it still leaked . This time around I eliminated the gasket all together and used Red Loctite only . At the same time I had a new O2 sensor installed since I was that deep into it . I DID see evidence of a leak but changed the sensor anyways . FIXED! This change helped so much with the tune and you could hear it ! I was able to get the banks to harmonize much better with AFR’s and sound . This helped to mitigate the drone I was getting at low rpm cruise . I thought this would also fix an issue I’ve seen on every intake I’ve used where the AFR’s between the two O2 sensors would be different during high vacuum running - light cruise . Megasquirt didn’t seem to be able to compensate in those scenarios though I had two separate O2 sensors dividing the banks . I ended up going into the injector trims and adding fuel to 1-3 since they ran really lean under high vacuum . Maybe they suck all the air out of the plenum before it reaches the last 3 cylinders . I added almost 20% to 1-3 . At this point the AFR’s evened up and you could feel and hear the difference . This is probably the best I’ve had my L running . Happy guy right now

It's not the votage drop that matters it's what the voltage drop indicates. No spark will be created if the current through the coil is not stopped. You could also disconnect the coil negative at the coil and check the wire for continuity to ground, key off. Disconnect the wire, put one meter probe on the end and the other probe on a good bare piece of metal or the engine block. You should get OL or infinite/huge ohms on your meter.

well yes , stock guides , just to make lower axes in the block, and the stock cover is modified to make some space, electric water pump ( davis Craig ) , and tensioner on the right side, in place of the water inlet ( spring and lock without oil pressure ) no need for oil pump drive or distributor for i put dry sump pump system and megasquirt ignition and injection EFI with yamaha bike itb's So simple and cheap , just a little of brain storming ! oh ! and a little joke for the head cover !! Lol !

A couple updates here. On Rayapp2's 81 slicktop turbo, I was able to decode and map out the 1981 turbo ECUs, those definitions are now available. The big thing here is he swapped to 60lb injectors and I successfully recoded the stock ECU for correct fueling. Found the new K value and rescaled the TP load scales and its happy. That car has further running issues that need to be solved, including the o2 swinging way more than my car does during closed loop, but the coding did its part. During this process I found a couple issues with what I was doing before, the rom chips I was using, ect. On my car I found the limits of fueling reliability on the stock AFM, which is about 200whp using virtual dyno to measure so probably inaccurate, but it should be within 10% of a real number. The boost on my car is back down to stock until I finalize a solution to make the fueling reliable. Moates has gone out of business, so my ostrich emulator is now unsupported and all the documentation is gone which is annoying. I was able to get Tunerpro working with emulation without offsetting the files, so everything gets a little easier there. Exactly how far can we go with this system? I have an idea, but its a couple months away from being fully tested.

Spent today packing up orders and only 5 outstanding. Looking forward to wrapping these all up once I work through the technical issues on these ones. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

I just ran across this, I can't believe it's been this long. Still love the Z. The only thing I have done to it in the past several years was recovering the Miata seats with upholstery from lseat.com. is this site still active?

So a bit of an update. The engine is up for sale. Already sold the transmission as well as exhaust/cats I had. Why? Because every time I fit the engine I was faced with the reality that either I needed to change the oil pan, intake, throttle elbow out, and then buy several manifolds to see what fits, or make custom manifolds. I'd resigned to the reality that I'd just have to make manifolds. But I just don't have the time to sit down and hammer that out. It might be a 40 hour job if I could just hunker down and do it, after buying $500 worth of supplies. No big deal right? Except I simply don't get chunks of time like that (currently). I want to just finish a swap and drive the thing. So I was entirely ready to just go LS instead. Over the counter swap parts are available, so it was just budgeting the money and doing it. Selling everything would be the necessary shot in the arm to raise the capitol to just make it happen. ...excpet... ...HOLY T56 PRICES PEOPLE! I kept an eye out for over two months. Facebook marketplace. Craigslist. Ebay. I now know most of the T56/TR6060 ratio sets by heart, and I definitely had some preferences, but I had in my mind what a "good deal" would look like for various sets and nothing was ever close. If I was just tossing money at problems I'd just get a new T56 Magnum and be on my way. But that's $3600, before a flywheel, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. Then I realized that converting a K series wasn't actually as expensive as I thought it was. Started pricing everything out, and realized I could do nearly the entire swap for the price of just a new T56 Magnum. At first I was thinking I'd used the cheap and very plentiful BRZ/FRS transmission, but so many horror stories of them being wrecked. The strange thing is that so many things indicate it should be a strong transmission, and some people drift them (one of the hardest modes of abuse for driveline parts) at 500+hp without issue. I wonder if it's just a shift fork design issue. Who knows. So I shifted and started researching AP1/AP2 transmissions. Kept an eye out, and score! Paid $800. Not 100% known to be good yet, I'll have to do some inspecting before assuming, but the guy was pretty up front about his experience. He was running 700+whp and had been through several transmissions, and this was his third. It held until he did his E30 transmission swap, and then later sold the car. He said when pulled it was still shifting great and not making any noise. It then sat outside for a year (in a bag he claimed) so fingers crossed I'm not replacing bearings or synchros. The bearing prices for this aren't bad. I can get all bearings and orings/seals for under $300 shipped to my door. But the synchros add up. The 1-2 synchro is like $266 on it's own iirc. (comes as a whole assembly with the hub gear, shift ring, etc). But it gets better. The seller was also very strapped for space and trying to see what else he could toss at me, and threw this in for free: The tag was long gone, so it took me a bit to figure out what it is. It's a Precision 6262 with the Gen2 ball bearing cartridge. It has some mild turbine denting, but the housings look unscathed. Bearings have zero play (might be able to measure with a dial indicator, but can't feel it by hand) so I could probably run this as-is. But that said, I'm going to get this swap done NA first for several reasons (cost being one). Once I decide to go turbo, I can just swap in a new wheel (found a rebuild parts supplier with new wheels for $120), and voila a solid turbo pairing for this engine. Speaking of engines, I haven't gotten one yet. I had a line on one, but due to issues with the seller we couldn't meet up. He's about 2 hours from me, so not sure when I'll get the opportunity to reconnect and see if I can get a motor. But I did find this and picked it up locally yesterday: Hard to read, but that says "K to F Adapter". There are a few companies making these, ranging from $240-300 depending on manufacture and reseller, but I picked this one up for $200 and it seems like I'll have to source my own bolts and dowels. I might be able to keep that under $20 so this still feels like a deal (though I'd still have the ship the above new prices, so maybe it's not bad no matter what). I'm tracking all the parts in a spreadsheet (which I normally do anyway) and it's looking like the budget is landing around $3600. Now, there's some hand waiving in that others should be aware of. 1. I'm going to use the existing Megasquirt MS3X box I have. Getting hondata/k-tuner would easily add $600+ to this. 2. I plan to use the OEM exhaust manifold. I simply don't see any good reason not to. I don't care if I'm losing 10 or even 20 horsepower. It's worth it to me to save time and cost to just drive the thing. 3. I already had steel and bushings in stock for doing engine mounts for the 4.6. Would easily add another $50-100 that I'm saving. 4. I have no clue what the driveshaft will cost. The AP1 transmission is a fixed flange, not a sliding splined output, so I'll need to find a shop familiar with making a shaft that can give me that half in of compliance or so necessary. Also, I'll likely need to find a converter flange to go from the AP1 output to a u-joint to cancel out the vibrations from the rear R200 ujoint. As of now I've got $500 for the driveshaft solution, and that could easily go up. 5. I'm also planning to save a few buckets by using 2NRS's K to F intake flange adapter, to use a S2000 intake. The "better" alternative is the Skunk2 Ultra Street manifold which has a reversible plenum. It's $550 and then you're still needing your throttle body, fuel rail, etc. Some of these might be source able or mix-match able with OEM parts, but for $120 I can get an adapter to use a full intake/throttle pull off out of a S2000 and that solves the problem soup to nuts. And considering some people have made well over 250whp NA on the S2000 intake I'm going to say it's "good enough" for me. 6. I'm also not buying into the "use this oil pump, use this water pump, remove balance shafts" internet myth ethos. I understand why people do that, and suggest that. But a lot of people are making changes with very little implications as to the reality of the why. These are $900-1100 motors, all day long. They might go up like B series have, eventually. But for right now, they're still dirt cheap. When people like Richard Holdner go and dyno a completely stock K24A2 with balance shafts up over 8700rpm, 280+hp NA, and 600+hp boosted, you have to wonder where the failures are. And if you go looking, and find one, let me know. I know MotoIQ, 4Pistons, Drag Cartel and other big names all say the same thing. And I'm sure if I was building a 10k motor, I'd also go with a better oil pump, remove the balance shafts, and gain oil capacity as well as ground clearance at the same time. ...or I can just buy a spare motor to store in my garage. So stay tuned. I hope to have an engine in the next few weeks and start mocking things up.

Hi all new to the forum thought I would introduce myself. I'm an old school petrol head, as in the Ford Escort and Vauxhall viva days haha, I was born with oil in my blood the entire family are mechanics, just recently sold my Lexus is200 supercharged car so I'm now car less, hopefully I will be starting a new project soon, I also created a car magazine called stance auto magazine, a place for us all to share our car builds and modified whips, so let me extend an invitation to anyone who wants to share their car build story just drop me a DM or if you have some sik photography you want to share I also have a very popular Facebook page I can share them to for you, I'm always looking of new stuff , can you drop images below in forums, lol sorry been years since I was on a forum

Hi forum, I have z300 1989 with rb25det,I decided to swap 2jz. Found 2jzGE full built.

I miss the old days of the forums. I would not call it a skill, but just some practice over the years and figuring out what works, and what not to do, usually the hard way. So dont be afraid to try and practice if you enjoy this sort of thing. Its not great work, but good enough to satify myself. I have a friend who welds, he has talant

I’ve been using Megasquirt 3x on my 3.2 for a while now . I had a knock sensor module installed on my X board . For some reason I can’t get it to work . I have a feeling there is a defect in the pin out during install . I’m not good enough to troubleshot bad install of a module and I’ve been reading about the usefulness of a cheap audio version that could made for 50$ . Background - I had to tear down my 3.2 because I had remove the crank to clean up the snout from a bad balancer . When I popped out #6 I found a broken top ring and evidence of detonation . Admittedly I was aggressive with timing and it bit me . There were no signs of the broken ring and the pulled 225 rwhp on the dyno . In fact that cylinder showed the highest CR = 220 psi This engine trans package is very noisy . I had straight cut gears and Kameari chain tensioner and a loud exhaust . I thought I heard ping around 4300 and attributed it to a rattling shifter - oops . # 6 was the only cylinder with any damage . I also pulled coolant from #6 at the head with a bypass to help mitigate problems . This time around I want to make sure this doesn’t happen again . I followed this you tube video. i was skeptical but it really works well. I drilled a hole above the freeze plug around 5&6 . Plenty of met there and there is a flat boss area for the sensor to sit flat against the block . You can hear the valve train clearly but you can also hear the ping clearly . I ended up pulling 4 degrees out of total timing on 93 octane . Megasquirt 3 allows for individual spark trim and I am going to try and isolate the issue to number 6 if that’s the case . Anyways - it’s not as good as real time retard available on ECU’s , but it is very effective to show some limits .

BREAKING NEWS: We have started. Redid all my injector wiring, even though it mostly looked fine, I think a few of my crimps were bad on the signal side, causing them not to fire. Did an extra nice job, and all was well. Still wouldn't start. Decided to rotate back to TDC. Turns out, the last time I set to TDC, I thought my dizzy rotor was 180 off, so I rotated the shaft 180. It was correct where it was the first time, so I actually made it 180 degrees off. Just moved my plugs and it started right up. Can't work on it however, as my oil pump gasket gave out, I think I overtightened the pump. Of course something else happens and I can't tune it today. Oh well, at least it starts now. Will take this as an opportunity to turn my shaft to the correct orientation when the gasket arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the help NewZed, you were right, exhaust stroke, not compression. Will post in my build thread over in the L6 forum when I get the timing dialed in tomorrow. Excited to hear the turbo.

Bringing this back from the dead! After my dyno session where you could see significant blow-by coming from the valve cover, the car progressively started producing blue smoke from the exhaust. I don't recall the exact timeline now, but around mid-2016 Flatblack helped me pull and disassemble the engine. We discovered two pistons with broken skirts, and one piston with broken ringlands. My head gasket was also hanging on by a thread, with very elongated bores. Since then other life priorities took precedence, and the car was basically untouched for 7 years. Mid 2023 I finally took the car in for paint, and got it back in October. Meanwhile I had the block cleaned up, found some used pistons, performed the coolant bypass mod on my P90 head, did the 240z tail light conversation, and last month finished reassembling the longblock. Sometime between 2013 and 2016 Flatblack sold his 280z, so we traded flywheel and clutch setups so I'd have more torque headroom. At some point his flywheel dowels went missing, so I'm waiting on replacements to get the engine stabbed back in and broken in over the next few weeks. Once I have everything complete, I'll post some reveal pictures of the new look! Short term I need to get a rollbar, some performance seats, and harnesses put in the car. I'll also need to get my MS2/Extra upgraded to the latest version, and apparently be a little more conservative with my tune. From there, I'll likely pursue installing the Snow Performance meth kit I've been sitting on for a decade, follow-through with the 280zx CV swap with the weld on adapters, upgrade injectors and swap to running E85, and look at swapping to a properly sized modern turbo to support my original 400whp goal.

Hi HybridZ universe! Been taking a break from the car for a bit, but starting to get more motivated here. Let's do our quick catch up first. ORP was an interesting event. We had positives, but the issue that wrecked the car in July surfaced it's head again. Turns out the ABS was overpowering the master cylinder seals on the front circuit and causing massive pressure losses. I had more pronounced but less consequential failure out there, but had good data to show what was wrong. I got my hands on some Tilton Type 79 master cylinders, developed specifically for the Audi LeMans teams who were seeing a similar failure in their master cylinders. I also had to upgrade the pedal box as these are bearing mount master cylinders. The plan was to run the car again at PIR, but that event ended up getting canceled, and so the car has sat since September. Slowly getting poked at, and trying to figure out where I wanted things to go. I made some aero mods to the fenders, and have been slowly cleaning up the firewall and some other areas. The big change I'm in the middle of here is with my ECU. I'm ditching the megasquirt and going Haltech. The LS never really ran right on the megasquirt, and when I started seeing some odd stuff starting it up for the first time this year, that was all the impetus I needed to ditch that. It'll be for sale shortly, expect to see it soon. Hoping to get to an event this year with the car, but really not sure when or where. For now, here's where we sit. I put it down on the ground for the first time since August last year.

Any chance that you have the plug wires installed in backward rotation? That would give proper timing on #1 but the others would be off. Although, I have started an engine with the plug wires that way. It ran terribly. Here's your old thread with the msq file.

I dont want any filler, so I fit each part perfectly with a butt joint, dolly it out where possible, then grind it flat and smooth for an original fit. before any welding I prime all parts on the back side and pinch points with weld-thru primer the arc and inner rocker are new in this picture then the rear of the rocker, putting back the spot welds in the OEM position Some more primer to look super clean and blend in tot he original rocker which was perfect everywhere else Finally fit the outer skin and tig it in small steps so no warping Some more smoothing of the welds and original spotweld locations used Just a small skim coat of filler on the upper weld seem, but making sure to leave all the factory spot welds to show through the paint. Other side is the same, so on to the front fender next

VINTAGE CARBON Pre-order Opportunity - NEW S30 CARBON FIBER FRONT GRILL! We have been cooking here at Vintage Carbon! We are going to be coming out with an ALL NEW Carbon Fiber S30 Grill! To our knowledge, this will be the First Ever Carbon Fiber Grill made for the Datsun S30 Platform! We are going to incorporate the Thick Outer Border similar to the Fairlady 432 Style Grille, while keeping the OEM "V" shape and OEM style straight across Slats all made completely of Carbon Fiber!! The slats will be thicker so you can really see the Carbon Weave from the front. We are also going to extend the overall height about 3 inches to make sure it covers as much as possible with a front air dam installed. We are going to ensure the vents are spaced equal to OEM so air flow will not be affected. It will be different from anything out there, more aggressive yet reminiscent of OEM but made of Carbon Fiber right here in So Cal, USA!! These will really add style to any S30 Z Front End!! What do you guys think? We will be accepting pre-orders for a heavy discount off Retail cost for the first 10 people. Contact me if interested! Message me or Email me at andrew@zociety.org ! We are currently working on a high quality render as we speak! Hoping to have that ready by the end of this week.

Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/ Thank you.

Going a different route with my car . Sold to me used with 30k miles . As you can see it’s super clean . I am willing to pop the cover if buyer requests . asking 750$ ships from 47401

Yes - they are tough . This is also the Torsen version .

My shirts arrived today, with the wait - huge thanks to Ryan for tackling this big job that benefits all of us and HybridZ! It was difficult to choose amongst all of the colors but very happy with my choices!

Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.

I know it's an old post but what the heck, here is my rendition of the kenmeri kpgc110 gtr conversation on my 72 240z.

The project has been revived 😊 There is lots of good advice above but the used engine market in Oz is a lot different to that in the US, basically more expensive with limited availability. So I decided on a Toyota 2.7 2TR-FE with matching 5 speed Toyota auto, both low mileage which is important. There is an aftermarket controller available for the auto which was a crucial factor. Motor will be stripped for forged pistons and con rods, not sure about which turbo at present, ECU will be a Haltech Elite 1500 which will run the VVT. Might start a build thread some time.

Ah every time I think I understand something I learn some new information. I've uploaded a video example of how the AFR targets react over the RPM range. This may illustrate what I've been trying to explain on the lean out above 4000rpm. Also the video is slightly offset from the innovate & address tracing, but it gives you a general picture of what the afrs are at a given target. 2019-03-15 13-20-35_Trim.mp4