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If I was going to buy an off the shelf kit, that's what I'd get. And as most spec miata guys will tell you, compound matters far more than just about anything. And for autox (read: not long periods of repeating heat ups back to back), thermal mass is almost irrelevant. Most people's perceived "weak braking" is lack of pressure at the pad and/or poor bad choice. And in that regard, the Micro BBK gives you in practice more than double the usable thermal mass, and also much better pad options. All in all I'll be waiting to hear your thoughts once some miles are put on them.

I just joined up so that I can follow this thread. Lots of great information here so thank you for that. I don’t have my build vehicle just yet and I need to get my garage built first but I do have a complete 2010 370z sport/touring donor car with 57k miles. I bought it in 2019, did quite a few modifications to it, and then a tree fell on it summer of 22. I’m looking forward to this project!

I solved rear end clunking in my 72 240z by replacing al of the rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings including the mustache bar mounts and solid mounting (MSA mount) the nose of the differential. Of course the differential is still a little playful, but every Z I have owned had a "loose" differential that would clunk when engaging the clutch. I learned to engage the clutch smoothly. No problems in 20 years. SBC 350 v8 Camaro WC T5 trans 78 280z r200 differential Chequered Flag stainless steel stub axles. Replaced the stock stub axles because the wheel mounting flanges were warped causing my rear 240sx caliper brake pads to rub on the rotors. Over heating rotors drove me nuts until I put a dial indicator gauge on the flanges and rotated the axle. Evidently the flanges are soft and can become bent/warped just hitting a curb or a pothole. Not a problem for drum brakes, but with disk brakes the rubbing can cause rotors to heat up.

So yesterday I began to remove the diff, and while trying to wrestle the half-shafts off, I noticed that the diff would move. Indeed one of the nuts holding the diff to the mustache bar was loose enough to allow the diff to move, and with an audible clunk, which is cause #5 in Jon M's authoritative post. About twenty years ago, I did remove and reattach the mustache bar when I replaced the isolators, so I guess I didn't torque it back properly. Note that this required much greater force than I had been exerting on the wheels in my prior clunk tests. So I will just put the diff back and after I get my new shifter bushings from MSA (or whatever they call themselves now), I'll drive it around the block to see if the clunk is gone. I am still curious about the total backlash that I can see from either side-flange while holding the opposite side-flange steady, with the half-shafts removed, and without visible movement of the companion flange. There were some visible shavings on the drain plug when I removed it. I don't know if some amount is expected. I guess I'll worry about it if there is still a clunk.

I ended up going with the micro bbk. After reading through a lot of forums for what the Miata guys are doing I realized the micro kit is similar or slightly larger rotors than most of the upgrades those guys go with and the calipers will be better than what a lot of them run. Considering the ZCG kit was just miata calipers on custom brackets, I think doing something similar to what those guys are doing is fine. The 280 isn't quite as small and light as the NA miata, but I think for a street car it's the right choice, and the micro kit's dust booted pistons give me just slightly more peace of mind since I do longer trips in the car when I'm around. Also had Galgo Performance start making me a custom shroud for the mishimoto radiator and some SPAL fans. Excited for the winter upgrades.

Yes the regular kit will fit under RKRs 15x8 +0. Here is a pic from like 10yrs ago when I was still daily driving my Z, you can see the T3 big wilwoods peeking out under the rkrs I took a bunch of pictures and measurements with rkrs and watanabe/several other wheels a couple yrs back when I decided to go ZCG due to the limitations on the t3 kit. I also ran a 1" wilwood MC but would not recommend it today as the unit leaked internally and externally so I went new OEM. Will DM you those later when I get some time to dig them up.