Brad-ManQ45

Scottie: Please accept my condolences, and let your family know that I am thinking of ya'll. I am very glad that you do everything the RIGHT way, and are alive to prove it.

Black soot on ground = RICH White smoke is water vapor. What does it SMELL like (other than exhaust). Slightly sweet = water w/antifreeze. If so, you may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber. Bluish smoke = oil and will smell like burnt oil. If it IS bluish, then valve guides or seals. You may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber.

Do the Seafoam treatment. Put in 20w50 oil. What is the compression on the cylinders? Black is usually fuel. Bluish/white is oil. At what point do you notice the smoke - just idling, on acceleration or decelleration? Idling/acceleration = rings Decelleration = valve guides This is of course assuming that it IS burning oil, which the black smoke doesn't suggest.

Big difference in simply putting DynaMat in the door panels. Did that when I did custom speaker pods for the front doors. Nothing elsre done and much quieter - and this is on an '83ZXT... A S30 should benefit even more...

On my '83ZXT, I had custom "pods" made that bolt onto the door panel to house the 5.25" ADS speakers. I personally don't want the midbass speaker more than 6" away from the tweeters.

Ditto - bought mine around '94...

All 280ZXT's had 3.54 R200s.

T3/T4E 50 Trim compressor, .63 AR standard turbine. Go w/3" downpipe.

Since he has Megasquirt he can program more advance when under light load - why screw w/vacuum advance?

There is no way that you can get any better than white light for vision. By going to any other color, you lose illumination PERIOD. This isn't rocket science - but it IS simple physics. I won't argue with you - you haven't taken the time to research as I have. What you have stated is subjective opinion with nothing to back it up. I just want to make sure that people looking for information get GOOD information - a goal we should all share on this site.

At the power range you are looking at, I believe that you are doing yourself a disservice in getting a thicker head gasket. You would have 10.5:1 with the 44.6cc N42 head. With the larger combustion chamber of the P90/P79 head (53.6cc), your compression will be considerably lower. You will have at most 9:1 compression ratio with flat tops and the P90 head. Even at 9.5:1 you should be ok. There are plenty of people that have run this combo with good fueling and ignition maps and made over 300 hp. You say you only want 240-275 - problem solved. Lowering compression will compromise much needed off boost torque that the people who use flat tops instead of the dished Turbo pistons enjoy. You'll even get better gas mileage with the higher compression. Buy an intercooler and piping to keep the intake charge cool and cap boost at 12-15 psi and you're gold. Now if you were gonna run HIGH boost, that is another story, but that would be in the 20+ psi range...

You can't go to carbs - won't pass visual. Low compression=low vacuum. My '83ZXT didn't pass emissions 1 year, so I replaced the O2 sensor and it passed. I had just put in a 3" exhaust from stock downpipe back w/3" cat, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap and was surprised that it didn't pass. I found out later, after it had passed, that the EGR was not working at all - there was a plate made out of the top of a tin can between 2 gaskets holding the EGR valve to the intake manifold - effectively blocking off any gasses being passed. All by way of saying that you don't need EGR to pass - fix your other problems.

They are both R200's, so flanges are the same.

Are you asking for the measurement from the front of the bellhousing (engine plate side to the face that bolts to the transmission itself? If so I would say that you would be looking for the length the bellhousing adds to the overall length of the tranny and not the width... I have a T5 ffrom my '83 ZXT in the garage, but I have no idea from your request what you want...

Do a search...this has been covered many times.

It's not the sensor - it simply senses if there is continuity through both low beam filaments...

6000k bulbs? You're losing some illumination there - ~4500 is best for illumination - the higher the bluer and the less you can see at night.

Suggested oil/weight ? (I typically use mobil 1) 10w30 Spark plug brand/gap? NGK - download a manual @ carfiche.com Suggested fuel? (91 is as good as it get around here)? Only 9:1 compression - use regular I've never dealt with a cap & rotor car befor, so any advice there would be helpful Use good wires and good quality/manufacturer parts.

Check the ground(s) for the headlight circuit.

Still agree w/ everything TonyD has said. Noddle: I port matched my exhaust manifold to the gasket - same as the head - didn't want to open up the ports further. Then I smoothed the inside of the runners as much as possible. I also port matched the turbo inlet on the manifold to the gasket - as well as the turbine housing inlet. Lastly, I bought a pencil type air grinder and a few carbide burrs and started opening up the manifold from the front 3 or 4 cylinders into the plenum for the turbo inlet. There is a lot of casting flash in there that I could feel. I didn't open it up a whole lot, but every little bit helps and there are no ridges or flash left. This can only help the flow. Now if I had a euro manifold - it would be a lot easier to do this to... I

Everything about it is too small.

Jamaica ain't much better than the DR. Nassau was fun back in the mid-70's, but haven't been since. I'd say your best bet is the Bahamas.

I agree wholeheartedly w/what TonyD has said. I would like to point out though, that a good port job will cost over 3 times what an intercooler setup will, and you don't have to take the head off. Once you port the head then you have a problem w/flow through the stock intake manifold. For basic daily driving and occasional trips down the strip wanting 300HP w/little effort or cost just exhaust, aftermarket EMS, intercooling and upping the boost to 18/20 PSI would be the ticket - and done in that order for a variety of reasons. Let's face it - not all of it is gonna be used very often. You'll need all of that stuff BEFORE porting the heads and intake will be much use. But if you were to make a habit of some kind of racing, then expect to spend the bucks to be reliable AND competitive in a harsher environment. Now if you had the engine apart already and have the bucks... In case you're wondering about my reasoning for the order of changes: Exhaust will provide more torque/boost quicker - a relatively cheap/easy mod that can and will whet the appetite for more. You can up the boost to 10 PSI at this point and get about 220 HP. Aftermarket EMS & bigger injectors - overall driveability and engine response is SO much better that the stock stuff. Intercooler to up the boost safely to the 300 HP level.

Unless that NA had a tranny swap it is not a T5...

I would run both and have the external ahead of the radiator to warm the fluid up faster when cold. If you buy the kind that slows down/bypasses fluid when cool so much the better.