Brad-ManQ45

Everything about it is too small.

Jamaica ain't much better than the DR. Nassau was fun back in the mid-70's, but haven't been since. I'd say your best bet is the Bahamas.

I agree wholeheartedly w/what TonyD has said. I would like to point out though, that a good port job will cost over 3 times what an intercooler setup will, and you don't have to take the head off. Once you port the head then you have a problem w/flow through the stock intake manifold. For basic daily driving and occasional trips down the strip wanting 300HP w/little effort or cost just exhaust, aftermarket EMS, intercooling and upping the boost to 18/20 PSI would be the ticket - and done in that order for a variety of reasons. Let's face it - not all of it is gonna be used very often. You'll need all of that stuff BEFORE porting the heads and intake will be much use. But if you were to make a habit of some kind of racing, then expect to spend the bucks to be reliable AND competitive in a harsher environment. Now if you had the engine apart already and have the bucks... In case you're wondering about my reasoning for the order of changes: Exhaust will provide more torque/boost quicker - a relatively cheap/easy mod that can and will whet the appetite for more. You can up the boost to 10 PSI at this point and get about 220 HP. Aftermarket EMS & bigger injectors - overall driveability and engine response is SO much better that the stock stuff. Intercooler to up the boost safely to the 300 HP level.

Unless that NA had a tranny swap it is not a T5...

I would run both and have the external ahead of the radiator to warm the fluid up faster when cold. If you buy the kind that slows down/bypasses fluid when cool so much the better.

I believe that you might want to consider using the .82 AR turbine housing if you go with the 3076. It looks to be the equivalent flow of the GT30r's /63 housing. You may want to consider rebuilding w/a 50 trim compressor section. That seems to work VERY well - even better for street and track than 60-1 according to at least one person here.

You are pretty much semi-defeating trhe purpose of COP by utilizing the distributor. - slop in the distributor and drive gears... Several people that have utilized SDS systems and I'm sure everyone that has the Electomotive systems utilize the Electromotive hall sensor and put magnets in the back of the damper. I'm not saying to use that sensor and system - it is wasted spark and requires 3 magnets for cylinder TDC events and one magnet on a different radius for the #1 cylinder TDC event - please note that if you rely only on a crank sensor you HAVE to use wasted spark and connot have true sequential COP - or fueling for that matter. MS_E requires something like a missing tooth wheel setup which EDIS and other gear on damper systems you've seen here are. At a minimum you would want 5 magnets, 12 would be better and 23 or 35 even better. This is basically duplicating a missing tooth wheel - only utilizing a hall sensor. Pallnet makes a mounting bracket for hall sensors on the L28. Now you won't get COP sequential ignition with only a missing tooth system on the crank. - you could if it were on the cam. This means that you would have to go wasted spark - which you can certainly do with COP type coils. You could take the signal for TDC on the #1 cylinder from the distributor if you wanted to, or find a way to put a magnet on the cam gear and another hall sensor in the valve cover and go true COP sequential ignition.

I found this site that might provide some info for you... Interpreting Oil Analysis How are you doing? Haven't seen you since the last time you were at Reynolds... There are probably other sites out there w/info.

The closer to 2:1 the better - look at that Honda engine you cited. Seeing as how inertia goes up geometrically/logarithmically with speed, side loads can get out of hand. You might want to make a spacer plate and mill the crank pedestals. Or look at using the Diesel block. Other advantages to longer rods are better detonation resistance. You haven't said if this is to be an NA engine or Turbo. If turbo, just buy better parts and turn the boost up - it'll be cheaper than offset grinding and going for max stroke.

HeyCleve & pat1: I used to be a customer of Thomas' back in the mid 90's, and my niece used to date Paul who worked for him for sure in his next business, but also I think at Z Service. I remember when it was just off Atlanta Road - can't remember what the street was, but most of my work was done at the South Cobb Drive location. This was when I had a condo and no garage. Now only daily drivers go to the shop... Nice to know some more of you still around!

+1 for 112!

Warren has made the swap to a 2004R from a Grand National, having made his own pieces and bought one piece - the flexplate to converter adapter from someone else. He is selling the whole kit, but I don't know for how much, but eventually I will buy one for my car.

If you are actually looking for advice then here is my .02... Set up ground rules based on consideration for each other ahead of time... Ex: In return for trying to leave the toilet seat down, she agrees no hose/feminine products draped all over the bathroom. Let her know your pet peeves about your sister if she doesn't already know, and if she has brother(s) that do things that bother her, get her input on what her gripes with him/them. Figure a way to try and live together even for only a short time. It may be that something will grow out of the situation, so try being a mensch instead of a hoser with her and at least keep her as a friend. She's definitely a bit of all right looking and you definitely shouldn't even THINK about screwing up her opinion of you as a roommate/friend due to lack of consideration - think of moving out and never seeing her for the rest of your life - or even worse, having her tell stories of your peccadilloes to whoever will listen... Goop, or whatever else works well waterless with paper towels has saved my marriage - I'm 3/4 clean before seeing the sink. I also use latex or some other work gloves a lot to keep grime off the hands as much as possible - but this can be clumsy at times and there will always be grime. NOTE: Using gloves cuts down on the time you spend lazing around using a knife to clean under you fingernails - this greatly aids them in feeling okay with your being around - especially if you're not married to them. One of the things I have learned from several relationships, a marriage of 8 years and the current one at 20 is the older I have gotten the more I have thought about my actions in advance - and not just about girls. Part of this is hoping to not have to do something over again, thus saving time and energy - which I definitely have less and less of the older I get - just never thought about it when I was young (say college and a few years after), never thought I'd live to be as old as I am, and just wanted to score big at whatever I was into at the moment and to hell with the consequences. It may seem to sound like what your parents would say, know what? - you're right. That doesn't make them automatically wrong. I grew up in the 60's, was at Woodstock, rebelled at what my father said and actually was stupid enough to let him know how wrong he was about being quick to judge based on what seemed scant knowledge/observation, and he simply said that one day I will call him up and tell him he was right. I did, after I was out in the real world and learned what to look for. I am hoping that even though I'm old enough to be your grandparent you will accept this small bit of advice from a former and still bit of a rebel that has learned a lot since school - especially what is most important in life - relationships - between yourself and everyone you come in contact with. Tis type of attitude is not conducive to becoming matujre

Don't go back to that exhaust shop. Or any of them that recommend a Flowmaster for a turbo car either for that matter. If you need to ask why you haven't used the search feature of this forum.

It really depends on what cam you are running. Stock cam, put the compressor section on a stock turbo. Upgraded cam, have the stock turbine housing machined for the P trim turbine.

That 4th prong is for 120V and can be capped off. I wired my basement and added circuits to my garage, but paid for a permit and inspections by the county, so no insurance problems. I think it was $30 for the permit, and well worth it because the inspectors that I talked to answered questions and gave advice that was worth every penny... Nowadays, everyone is starting to like self-reliance and thrift-except for union workers and people charging 35-75 dollars an hour for easy work.

PM'd you.

Warren, I'm not about to get into a pissing match with you, I will simply make a few statements and observations, then I'm done with this thread.... That PROVEN company has not been in business as long as Turbonetics. They STILL don't have working website (ie: not a placeholder page). As far as I know, the only reason anyone here knows about the company you were using was because of one member here who sold their products, and yes, there have been failures. Turbonetics has been around a LONG time - years and years before I even bought my turbo in '94 and are still around and apparently still providing good product. We already know not to trust that company you've had to deal with. And no folks, I will not name names, but the member selling these turbos is no longer in the business. There is no way that any of the woes Warren has had are a result of anything he did wrong - you just simply don't know how much attention to detail Warren puts into anything he does. Now, I would probably entertain doing business with a company that gives discounts on Turbonetics Turbos - but only for turbos that are stock Turbonetics - not frankenturbos using some Garrett and some Turbonetics and some who knows what. Come to that - even mixing up parts from the same manufacturer for a frankenturbo such as what Warren had, if done by people with no long term reputation can lead to exactly the problems we're talking about too. If I can see the same specs in the Turbonetics catalog and on the sellers website and they state it is a Turbonetics - then as far as I'm concerned, if it isn't a real Turbonetics when it comes in it'll go back - I'm protected by laws governing false advertising ans my AMEX account reps will back me up. I don't mind saving a buck, and I'm sure due diligence of a sort was used in sourcing a supplier by the person who sold Warren his, but sometimes one simply has to pony up the proper amount of valuta to insure getting a good product. For something as expensive as a turbo, that extra 10-25 percent can be considered insurance - especially if you're talking about a daily driver. For a weekend or race car, some will go cheap but they almost always DNF eventually. I am sure there are companies out there that can put turbos together as well as Turbonetics, I can think of a few that have good reps that have been reported here. Because I have had good luck with Trubonetics (the ZXT was my daily driver at the time), I see no reason to look anywhere else. Other people have had other good experiences with other companies. There are at least two people out of our small population on this board that have had problems with the turbos from this one particular company . I am only encouraging people to do business with companies that are known to be trustworthy and not have to shell out big bucks later to save a relatively small amount on their initial purchase. I'm sure I've said more than enough, so I'm outta here...

Warren - don't give up on Garrett just yet. Concentrate on dealing with PROVEN companies that provide good units. Turbonetics comes to mind - I've had no problems with mine for over 40K.

I have an '83ZXT and I have a welder and know how to use it. I have replaced half a firewall and half an inner fender panel and part of the battery tray on mine, have yet to take out the windshield and get to the bubbling at the top edge and any rust in the windshield channels, and have a bit of rust behind the driver's rear wheel opening. That's all the rust on mine. If it were my car, I personally would look for another shell.

I may be off base here, but electrically speaking, when you are talking about using low impedance injectors, the resistors should NOT be in parallel, but in series - in parallel, you are lowering resistance even more - in series you are increasing resistance. That said - to take maximum advantage of low impedance injectors (you didn't mention what version of MS software you are running), racingmini_mtl has injector driver boards that let you run low impedance injectors and get maximum resolution from them - fine idle and better tip-in response. I bought two sets of two - one for the L28ET project and one for a V8 project. Please let us know how the EDIS works out...

+1 on the turbine A/R. You also have no idea what trim the compressor section is, so forget it - not worth the money.

Please be aware that a toothed ring is not the only way to achieve CAS w/MegaSquirt. You can use the same types of magnets that Electromotive uses and mount them (epoxied) in holes drilled in the back of the dampener and fab a solid mounting bracket for a Hall sensor, which is what I will be doing. MS can be set up to utilize either VR or Hall sensors, and it's easier to use the Hall sensors - less circuitry. It is the same setup that you would use for the stock distributor, since it's optical (both Hall sensors and optical sensors output a square wave signal, versus a sine wave for the VR sensors, which require signal modification to be a square wave to work w/MS. Doing a 12-1 setup is not that difficult, but you can go 36-1 if you want - just buy more magnets. 6-1 would be the least you can get away with. More magnets = greater resolution. Either way, once you determine where the sensor is to be mounted, and where TDC is, you want the missing tooth to be ~60 degrees ahead of where the timing mark shows TDC on #1 cylinder. This eliminates a lot of hassles with the toothed ring thickness, pulley alignment and having to have the bracket go through the belts so the senso can read the teeth if mounted on the front of the pulleys...

It's gonna be a GM 4L60E and I have a converter from PTC that is around 3K based on what I gave as parameters. Boost onset ~2800, full boost ~3500. Torque @ 3000 ~300 lb/ft. This ought to be fun - basically the same 1st gear as the T5 w/a torque converter - 2nd ought to hit HARD!

Since I am converting my car from a T5 to automatic, I'll leave the linkage the way it is - let the torque converter work for me!