Brad-ManQ45

All 280ZXT's had 3.54 R200s.

T3/T4E 50 Trim compressor, .63 AR standard turbine. Go w/3" downpipe.

Since he has Megasquirt he can program more advance when under light load - why screw w/vacuum advance?

There is no way that you can get any better than white light for vision. By going to any other color, you lose illumination PERIOD. This isn't rocket science - but it IS simple physics. I won't argue with you - you haven't taken the time to research as I have. What you have stated is subjective opinion with nothing to back it up. I just want to make sure that people looking for information get GOOD information - a goal we should all share on this site.

At the power range you are looking at, I believe that you are doing yourself a disservice in getting a thicker head gasket. You would have 10.5:1 with the 44.6cc N42 head. With the larger combustion chamber of the P90/P79 head (53.6cc), your compression will be considerably lower. You will have at most 9:1 compression ratio with flat tops and the P90 head. Even at 9.5:1 you should be ok. There are plenty of people that have run this combo with good fueling and ignition maps and made over 300 hp. You say you only want 240-275 - problem solved. Lowering compression will compromise much needed off boost torque that the people who use flat tops instead of the dished Turbo pistons enjoy. You'll even get better gas mileage with the higher compression. Buy an intercooler and piping to keep the intake charge cool and cap boost at 12-15 psi and you're gold. Now if you were gonna run HIGH boost, that is another story, but that would be in the 20+ psi range...

You can't go to carbs - won't pass visual. Low compression=low vacuum. My '83ZXT didn't pass emissions 1 year, so I replaced the O2 sensor and it passed. I had just put in a 3" exhaust from stock downpipe back w/3" cat, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap and was surprised that it didn't pass. I found out later, after it had passed, that the EGR was not working at all - there was a plate made out of the top of a tin can between 2 gaskets holding the EGR valve to the intake manifold - effectively blocking off any gasses being passed. All by way of saying that you don't need EGR to pass - fix your other problems.

They are both R200's, so flanges are the same.

Are you asking for the measurement from the front of the bellhousing (engine plate side to the face that bolts to the transmission itself? If so I would say that you would be looking for the length the bellhousing adds to the overall length of the tranny and not the width... I have a T5 ffrom my '83 ZXT in the garage, but I have no idea from your request what you want...

Do a search...this has been covered many times.

It's not the sensor - it simply senses if there is continuity through both low beam filaments...

6000k bulbs? You're losing some illumination there - ~4500 is best for illumination - the higher the bluer and the less you can see at night.

Suggested oil/weight ? (I typically use mobil 1) 10w30 Spark plug brand/gap? NGK - download a manual @ carfiche.com Suggested fuel? (91 is as good as it get around here)? Only 9:1 compression - use regular I've never dealt with a cap & rotor car befor, so any advice there would be helpful Use good wires and good quality/manufacturer parts.

Check the ground(s) for the headlight circuit.

Still agree w/ everything TonyD has said. Noddle: I port matched my exhaust manifold to the gasket - same as the head - didn't want to open up the ports further. Then I smoothed the inside of the runners as much as possible. I also port matched the turbo inlet on the manifold to the gasket - as well as the turbine housing inlet. Lastly, I bought a pencil type air grinder and a few carbide burrs and started opening up the manifold from the front 3 or 4 cylinders into the plenum for the turbo inlet. There is a lot of casting flash in there that I could feel. I didn't open it up a whole lot, but every little bit helps and there are no ridges or flash left. This can only help the flow. Now if I had a euro manifold - it would be a lot easier to do this to... I

Everything about it is too small.

Jamaica ain't much better than the DR. Nassau was fun back in the mid-70's, but haven't been since. I'd say your best bet is the Bahamas.

I agree wholeheartedly w/what TonyD has said. I would like to point out though, that a good port job will cost over 3 times what an intercooler setup will, and you don't have to take the head off. Once you port the head then you have a problem w/flow through the stock intake manifold. For basic daily driving and occasional trips down the strip wanting 300HP w/little effort or cost just exhaust, aftermarket EMS, intercooling and upping the boost to 18/20 PSI would be the ticket - and done in that order for a variety of reasons. Let's face it - not all of it is gonna be used very often. You'll need all of that stuff BEFORE porting the heads and intake will be much use. But if you were to make a habit of some kind of racing, then expect to spend the bucks to be reliable AND competitive in a harsher environment. Now if you had the engine apart already and have the bucks... In case you're wondering about my reasoning for the order of changes: Exhaust will provide more torque/boost quicker - a relatively cheap/easy mod that can and will whet the appetite for more. You can up the boost to 10 PSI at this point and get about 220 HP. Aftermarket EMS & bigger injectors - overall driveability and engine response is SO much better that the stock stuff. Intercooler to up the boost safely to the 300 HP level.

Unless that NA had a tranny swap it is not a T5...

I would run both and have the external ahead of the radiator to warm the fluid up faster when cold. If you buy the kind that slows down/bypasses fluid when cool so much the better.

I believe that you might want to consider using the .82 AR turbine housing if you go with the 3076. It looks to be the equivalent flow of the GT30r's /63 housing. You may want to consider rebuilding w/a 50 trim compressor section. That seems to work VERY well - even better for street and track than 60-1 according to at least one person here.

You are pretty much semi-defeating trhe purpose of COP by utilizing the distributor. - slop in the distributor and drive gears... Several people that have utilized SDS systems and I'm sure everyone that has the Electomotive systems utilize the Electromotive hall sensor and put magnets in the back of the damper. I'm not saying to use that sensor and system - it is wasted spark and requires 3 magnets for cylinder TDC events and one magnet on a different radius for the #1 cylinder TDC event - please note that if you rely only on a crank sensor you HAVE to use wasted spark and connot have true sequential COP - or fueling for that matter. MS_E requires something like a missing tooth wheel setup which EDIS and other gear on damper systems you've seen here are. At a minimum you would want 5 magnets, 12 would be better and 23 or 35 even better. This is basically duplicating a missing tooth wheel - only utilizing a hall sensor. Pallnet makes a mounting bracket for hall sensors on the L28. Now you won't get COP sequential ignition with only a missing tooth system on the crank. - you could if it were on the cam. This means that you would have to go wasted spark - which you can certainly do with COP type coils. You could take the signal for TDC on the #1 cylinder from the distributor if you wanted to, or find a way to put a magnet on the cam gear and another hall sensor in the valve cover and go true COP sequential ignition.

I found this site that might provide some info for you... Interpreting Oil Analysis How are you doing? Haven't seen you since the last time you were at Reynolds... There are probably other sites out there w/info.

The closer to 2:1 the better - look at that Honda engine you cited. Seeing as how inertia goes up geometrically/logarithmically with speed, side loads can get out of hand. You might want to make a spacer plate and mill the crank pedestals. Or look at using the Diesel block. Other advantages to longer rods are better detonation resistance. You haven't said if this is to be an NA engine or Turbo. If turbo, just buy better parts and turn the boost up - it'll be cheaper than offset grinding and going for max stroke.

HeyCleve & pat1: I used to be a customer of Thomas' back in the mid 90's, and my niece used to date Paul who worked for him for sure in his next business, but also I think at Z Service. I remember when it was just off Atlanta Road - can't remember what the street was, but most of my work was done at the South Cobb Drive location. This was when I had a condo and no garage. Now only daily drivers go to the shop... Nice to know some more of you still around!

+1 for 112!