Brad-ManQ45

3.10:1 R200? Thought 3.36:1 was lowest...

With the 60's your speedo will be closer to accurate. Your wheel wells will look full and ride will be better. Difference in weight? Not much. You haven't said what you main purpose of the car is, so hard to recommend anything.

Why not 215/60 front and either 225/60 or 235/60 rear?

In a nutshell, when you lower the car with springs, you lose wheel travel and increase the spring rate to prevent bottoming out. The higher spring rate requires a stiffer shock to control the wheel movement, otherwise you "pogo".

Hey Juan: Are you going to use MS_Extra code and do ignition through it? The reason I ask is that since you have a wideband setup, the AutoTune feature can help a lot if you are not running some of the more esoteric version s of the extra code which may not support AutoTune You can probably use the base setups from 440 injectors and then reducing the values in the VE table by the ~12% difference in injector size. (It's actually 13.7% but err on the side of rich...) If anyone on here thinks that this is wrong, then I'd like to know, because my understanding would be grossly off of the use of the VE table if I am...

IF they USE copper - a lot of cheaper welders use aluminum for coils and wiring...

Is it the light, or are there ripples in the shot of the left rear from fender line curving up to the window roof? Otherwise, looking good!

I have a Miller 175 MIG, a band saw, chop saw and a good drill press. I almost bought a bridgeport mill 5 years ago, but it was a little stiff in price for the condition it was in according to ,y friend who has one in his garage. Since he has one, and a lathe, I figured I'd buy other toys... Then I lost my good paying job and have been eking out an existence - especially since my wife lost hers too. Good thing I saved those bucks.

If it is the cheapest of the HF welders, I don't think it has provisions to add gas, and therefore would be inappropriate to use on sheet metal - unless you are and expert and LIKE hassles. If you are just a part-time welder, then there is almost no chance of doing a good job with it. You need to learn not to pay attention to "your friend", who had you waste your money without knowing what he was talking about. Honestly, with all the posts in this forum about welders, I am surprised that you went ahead and bought it. If you didn't research before the purchase, then don't blame the waste on your friend.

Really didn't have any WD-40, but Kroil is supposed to be a great penetrant. I use it in gunsmithing too.

I finally got some more time to work on it today and succeeded. This is a water-cooled Turbonetics turbo that I had a clipped turbine and stock exhaust housing on, using an S-3 compressor and 70 A/R housing. Due to the way everything was clocked, the old keep loosening the bolts that pair up with the oil feed bosses wasn't gonna work. I wound up using two different size cold chisels because they were basically wedge shaped and worked my way around the turbo. It took a while to notice that it had started to come out, but once I saw progress, it seemed to go much faster! As always, constantly checked for free shaft rotation and no binding.

Nope - it's a T3/T4 center section...

I've soaked mine w/Kroil and hit it with a dead-blow hammer and it doesn't want to move. Now thinking about heating the housing w/MAPP torch and trying it... Any tips from the gurus? Thanks

I agree with TonyD. I would also like to point out that before I joined, I read almost every post in the forum - admittedly a LOT easier in 2000. What we should not be tolerant of is people - and by people I mean newbies - that don't search, don't capitalize, don't spell, use bad grammar and basically treat their posts on this site like they are texting their LCD friends. The purpose and yes, JOY of this site is the ability to learn a lot from the shared knowledge - IF you are willing to read (and search). Anyone that makes it hard to be understood should not be a continuing part of this site. No one here gets paid to nursemaid/teach, we're here to learn and share. The newbie's that blatantly ignore the simple common courtesies we request of them and they accepted by checking the appropriate box upon sign up SHOULD get the ruler across their knuckles (sadly only metaphorically). If they cop an attitude about being slapped down, we definitely don't need them - I doubt seriously that they are our kind of people. I think that the first 5 posts should be in a special forum, and see that before turned loose on the general membership that they are willing to capitalize, spell, use proper grammar and basically COMMUNICATE according to our rules. If they can do that, then they have no excuse when out in the regular forums. Then all we have to complain about is not searching before asking questions that have been covered numerous times. Note: The spelling requirement is probably the most important - no search will come up right if they can't spell.

No spoon feeding here - do a search of this site and learn.

I would also like to mention that bottom taps are available and should be used on all blind holes that have needed tapping.

Your math IS good - been there and done that already.

I THOUGHT you might like the 3076 once you really looked at it - you'll get a bit better response from the slightly smaller impeller wheel just to start. You may want to consider the 1.06 turbine housing for top end - it's ~= to the .82 GT35R turbine housing, but I think I'd start with the .82 and see if it's holding you back any up top - for sure it'll be better getting to the top end. Except for pure drag racing, I'd trade a small bit off the top for better response across the range any day. Sometimes having a choice of gears lets me be a bit smoother and work a bit less. I'd do a search of this site and look for the GT35 threads and check out what those that have swapped turbine housings have to say.

The GT35R is already more than enough for either engine, provided you have the right turbine housing, which you allude to not having but don't specify which one you have. In point of fact, for road racing, I would consider the 3076 w/a .82 exhaust housing (~same flow as the .63 GT35R housing). Area under the curve is far more critical for road racing and I think the lower end response would really help more than later top end power... You haven't mentioned how much boost you want to run either, so until we know more specifics you're just gonna get pot shots/guessing at what would be appropriate. Not sure what you mean by later technology, the 6262 that you refer to seems to be a Precision turbo, and there is no "later technology" there.

Scottie: Please accept my condolences, and let your family know that I am thinking of ya'll. I am very glad that you do everything the RIGHT way, and are alive to prove it.

Black soot on ground = RICH White smoke is water vapor. What does it SMELL like (other than exhaust). Slightly sweet = water w/antifreeze. If so, you may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber. Bluish smoke = oil and will smell like burnt oil. If it IS bluish, then valve guides or seals. You may have a crack in your head allowing water into combustion chamber.

Do the Seafoam treatment. Put in 20w50 oil. What is the compression on the cylinders? Black is usually fuel. Bluish/white is oil. At what point do you notice the smoke - just idling, on acceleration or decelleration? Idling/acceleration = rings Decelleration = valve guides This is of course assuming that it IS burning oil, which the black smoke doesn't suggest.

Big difference in simply putting DynaMat in the door panels. Did that when I did custom speaker pods for the front doors. Nothing elsre done and much quieter - and this is on an '83ZXT... A S30 should benefit even more...

On my '83ZXT, I had custom "pods" made that bolt onto the door panel to house the 5.25" ADS speakers. I personally don't want the midbass speaker more than 6" away from the tweeters.

Ditto - bought mine around '94...