Brad-ManQ45

Yup, just like I remember - good times, huh?

I have to agree on the SV-650... Best starter bike that you'll find a reason to keep ever. Does everything but top speed well - and who needs that on the street? If I were to have a bike for running around on a near daily basis the SV would be my pick. I personally have two bikes - both RD350's - a '74 basically stock except for H4 Bi-Xenon headlight, and a '75 that will have a 400 engine/tranny, ported and piped with upgraded electrics. It's currently stripped down and blasted awaiting a warm enough day to paint the frame - I have PickleX-20 on it so it won't rust. Talk about fun bikes! Oh - and I pay $94/yr for full coverage insurance with medical on the '74. I purchased it running good for $450 and spent about a week really cleaning it up and cleaning the carbs, putting on new oil/gas lines and in-line filters. Most of the time was spent polishing aluminum and chrome. JohnC: All motor and no chassis as I remember. I had friends with 500's and one had a 750 and my '75 would eat them up in the mountains no sweat on my bikes or my part. On their part - they were scared poopless trying to keep up!

OOPS! I never noticed the report button since the new software - guess we know where my head's been...

It's about time that individual groups start to battle the dumbing down of the masses and condoning sloppy communication habits. We've already drawn the line here, but unfortunately there are some that get away with it. I think that ANY post that does not use capitalization or uses 'texting' grammar/formatting should be sent to the Tools forum and locked - Period. No reason necessary - let them figure it out if they can. Same thing with those that don't put a proper title/description. I think that the rules should encourage every user to notify admins of posts that do not meet the standards - some forums have a capability of 'report this post' which would be nice, but don't know if available with this software. I wish there were more forums that would adopt the basics that we have here - I get tired of dealing with people that may appear to be more ignorant than they really are - or perhaps they really are... But what do I know, I've only put myself through school raised a family, have a grandson and am still getting several Microsoft Certifications a year at 56. I personally do not text and have told my carrier not to even send text or data to my phone - that's what computers are for (screens on phones are too tiny for my eyes) and I refuse to appear dumb/lazy in my communications. The occasional contraction or regionalism for effect is quite all right and makes communications a bit less dry.

I did a search on 'Warner' and found out a lot - even some answers you are looking for. What's wrong here? Is it possible that a newbie is trying to be lazy or playing stupid?

I have tranny and driveshaft, full turbo pressureplate and flywheel and hydraulics.

Get the equivalent of a 3076.

Timing advance is usually all in by ~3500 rpm. Then you start retarding based on boost. Some will say 1 degree less advance per lb. of boost and some say a bit more. You don't mention having a wideband O2 sensor. If you have one, what's the A/F ratio when it starts to fall on it's face? Why aren't you posting this in the Megasqurt forum?

All I did was type in ecu and auto. Can't get any simpler than that. What were you smokin'?

z-ya: I'd use a different bellhousing to use - that T5 one is a bit of a rarity for those who want to use a T5 tranny....

Then you haven't searched this site.

Get some Eibach's and be happy - I am with mine.

For a revolver, think about the Charter Arms Bulldog - .44 Special. Nice and compact, easy to control (at least for me). Mt dad and I are into all kinds of guns, revolvers, pistols, shotguns and rifles. As far as sidearms go, he has a 1911 and the Bulldog. I have 2 EAA Witnesses - .45 and 10mm both full size, a Beretta Model 81 .32 ACP, A Makarov, A CZ 52, a Ruger Redhawk .44 Mag w/ Weaver stainless scope, Two Ruger .22 pistols - one long barrel and a long barrel target model as well as a High Standard .22 Mag derringer. For some reason, I am more accurate with full loads in the 10mm than I am with any other centerfire sidearm except for the Redhawk - but it has the scope and is HEAVY! The 10mm is actually my last sidearm purchase. Sorry to go into great lengths, but it boils down to what others have said - you have to find the sidearm you are most comfortable and accurate with. Just a note, I have a medium to large hand - if I have to wear latex or tight gloves I take a large, but for normal winter type gloves a medium usually fits - I HATE loose gloves.

Does that mean you're not interested in a stock turbine housing for what you already have?

3.10:1 R200? Thought 3.36:1 was lowest...

With the 60's your speedo will be closer to accurate. Your wheel wells will look full and ride will be better. Difference in weight? Not much. You haven't said what you main purpose of the car is, so hard to recommend anything.

Why not 215/60 front and either 225/60 or 235/60 rear?

In a nutshell, when you lower the car with springs, you lose wheel travel and increase the spring rate to prevent bottoming out. The higher spring rate requires a stiffer shock to control the wheel movement, otherwise you "pogo".

Hey Juan: Are you going to use MS_Extra code and do ignition through it? The reason I ask is that since you have a wideband setup, the AutoTune feature can help a lot if you are not running some of the more esoteric version s of the extra code which may not support AutoTune You can probably use the base setups from 440 injectors and then reducing the values in the VE table by the ~12% difference in injector size. (It's actually 13.7% but err on the side of rich...) If anyone on here thinks that this is wrong, then I'd like to know, because my understanding would be grossly off of the use of the VE table if I am...

IF they USE copper - a lot of cheaper welders use aluminum for coils and wiring...

Is it the light, or are there ripples in the shot of the left rear from fender line curving up to the window roof? Otherwise, looking good!

I have a Miller 175 MIG, a band saw, chop saw and a good drill press. I almost bought a bridgeport mill 5 years ago, but it was a little stiff in price for the condition it was in according to ,y friend who has one in his garage. Since he has one, and a lathe, I figured I'd buy other toys... Then I lost my good paying job and have been eking out an existence - especially since my wife lost hers too. Good thing I saved those bucks.

If it is the cheapest of the HF welders, I don't think it has provisions to add gas, and therefore would be inappropriate to use on sheet metal - unless you are and expert and LIKE hassles. If you are just a part-time welder, then there is almost no chance of doing a good job with it. You need to learn not to pay attention to "your friend", who had you waste your money without knowing what he was talking about. Honestly, with all the posts in this forum about welders, I am surprised that you went ahead and bought it. If you didn't research before the purchase, then don't blame the waste on your friend.

Really didn't have any WD-40, but Kroil is supposed to be a great penetrant. I use it in gunsmithing too.

I finally got some more time to work on it today and succeeded. This is a water-cooled Turbonetics turbo that I had a clipped turbine and stock exhaust housing on, using an S-3 compressor and 70 A/R housing. Due to the way everything was clocked, the old keep loosening the bolts that pair up with the oil feed bosses wasn't gonna work. I wound up using two different size cold chisels because they were basically wedge shaped and worked my way around the turbo. It took a while to notice that it had started to come out, but once I saw progress, it seemed to go much faster! As always, constantly checked for free shaft rotation and no binding.