spotfitz

I had purchased an '81 280zx 2+2 parts car along with an '83 280zx about a year ago. Both cars are now gone, but I pulled the motor/tranny out of the '81 before it left. I was told the motor was a Maxima L24 and it appears to be. I had found receipts for tranny repair totalling $700 and was told this tranny was rebuilt. By the clear silicone coming out of the joints I can say it has atleast been pulled apart at one time. The weird thing about it is, it has NO fill plug and 3 gear sensors.?! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8708&cat=500&ppuser=7958 To the right of where a fill plug would be is the normal reverse gear sensor hole. The sensor was removed at the time of the pic. Is this a Maxima tranny? It is a 5 speed.

It sounds like glazed pads. Take them out and scuff them up with some 80 grit and replace. Bleed the system and bed the pads to see what it does. If it is the pads this is an easy test.

Making a small push rod with a fixed centered fulcrum, one end attached to the vacuum pot arm and the other end hooked up to the breaker plate assembly would reverse the direction of actuation. This would make it retard timing rather then advance it. Offsetting the fulcrum would increase or decrease the ratio of movement, depending on which direction you offset it. Depending on what degree you have the breaker plate when attaching to the push rod could limit the amount of retard. Confinements may be the problem though. I would throw together a drawing, but I'm alot better at autocad then paint. LOL

The fill/drain plugs are 1/2", but it is generally easier to remove one of the sensors to fill the tranny. Breaker bar is usually required to remove the plugs. Fill until fluid begins to ooze out of the hole, with car level. Redline synthetic does work good!

Hmm, does it bleed through as a yellowish haze? When you say "only to later bleed thru", about how much time are we talking about. Still trying to figure out what the body shop did to mine.

Sounds and looks good! I sometimes drive on that side of the road aswell, but I'm not suppose to....some law or something. Your brake lights and back up lights work like mine did before the rewiring. LOL

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1c/46/0900823d801d1c46.jsp If you can swing it, replace the fuel rail with one of Pallnet's to make reinstalling everything easier: http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/products.htm

That was the case with a friends '84. Little black box just under the dash, to the right of the steering wheel is where he's was located.

Sorry I missed this post. There is a difference in the arms. How the wiper blade holder attaches to the arm itself is the difference. I do believe that changed in '72 (not positive). There is also a difference from left to right. The blade angle is slightly different horizontally (they are labeled). They are not chrome plated, they are stainless steel just like all the other trim pieces around the windows, drip rails and side marker lights (excluding the mounting point on the wiper arm which appears to be aluminum). I polished a set of wiper blade arms to a mirror finish and it took alot of time, but turned out great looking. I considered polishing all the trim aswell, but got it powdercoated instead. Edit: as for mounting and function, they are the same. You just have to keep the wiper blade holders with their corresponding arms.

http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/LugNuts&Studs.htm (in aluminum) KRC-8202 $2.95 each, ouch!

My fellow employees are now wondering what I'm cracking up about. To funny!

If it wasn't for that nagging thing we all call sleep and work, that is were I would spend all my time.

Atleast they did it with you NOT being in the car. LOL

While I can't comment on the specific spacers referenced, I can say that the ones I put on my early '74 helped and these look just like the ones I purchased. For giggles: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103886&highlight=bump+steer+spacers

Even if the kid is strapped, if he hears the sound of a pump and decides to hang out and see if it's real.... I personally like a pump with bird shot, even though I live in Texas where you can drag the body back into the house. LOL

Take out a loan to pay off your car and use this guys car as collateral?

Sorry for the delay and sorry I couldn't help more.

For your viewing pleasure: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8400&cat=500 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8401&cat=500 Actually, I think I screwed up. I was drinking tequila when I took these pics. I don't think this is the part that idles up when the compressor clutch kicks in. I have it somewhere. I just have to dig it out. Edit: I guess I was partially right. Here you go, both components actuate the a/c fast idle: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8402&cat=500 And thank you Admin's as usual! You know why. Future updates are coming though.... I will try to downsize them in the upcoming weeks as time permits. I'm polishing aluminum parts have you know... lol Damn, edit again. If you need more pics, let me know. I've got more parts laying around then I know what to do with and I'm out of money right now. What else am I going to do with my time?

Sorry for the delay. I'll have pics up tomorrow morning.

I recently had an electrical issue in my garage which made all outlets, garage door and ceiling fan not work and I still find myself sitting in the garage sweating a puddle under me while I stare at the engine sitting on the stand. It's sickening.

No problem. I just need the space for a future update. If you need pics of the ZX let me know. I just have to pull the cover off and snap some shots.

I just reused the bolts that held it to the stub axle housing. Drilled the holes for them and used a tap for the threads.

OK, here we go. I'll have to pull these down in acouple weeks due to the size and lack of time to down size them. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8314&cat=500&ppuser=7958 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8312&cat=500&ppuser=7958 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8313&cat=500&ppuser=7958 Remove the old bracket from the body. Remove the hard line from the strut bracket to the stub axle bracket. Remove stub axle bracket and relocate it to the body. The flex line will now come from that relocated bracket on the body directly to the caliper. I ran like that for about a year before paint jail acouple years ago, with no problems or rubbing except for a slight clearancing I had to do where the emergency brake lever on the caliper came in contact with the body. See first pic.

I did not have time to down size these pics and will need to pull them down after a week or two due to the size of them. Ironically, I am leaving now to replace a brake booster on a '94? Aurora with only 40K on the odometer. Here are the pics; First being early '74 260Z with a measured 8" '82 ZX booster and 15/16 ZX master: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8309 Second being slightly different view showing the lack of spacer: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8307 The third being a side view just for reference: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8310&cat=500 The fourth being early '77 280Z coupe(daily driver) with standard booster and 7/8 master: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8308&cat=500 Another view: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=8311&cat=500

Using almost the same setup I relocated the bracket to the bottom side of the rear frame rail, if you want to call it that, just in front of the strut. The only difference in my set up is that I modified a '88 Maxima bracket to duplicate the '84 with a 15mm offset. PM me for pics.