Moridin

Yeah, I know the Cobra isn't up to snuff with its chassis. It does have its good and bad parts though. Bad becauase its so old, but also good because of that. There are so man suspension parts out there for the cars you never know what would hit you. Oh...and the weight is another big thing too. We are working on it. Being that it is my mom's car, it helps to keep all mods streetable, so a lot of research goes into each one Personally, I like the Z. Even with crappy tires and old, horrible, shot bushings, the thing tells you where it's going. I have no problem just hanging the rear end out all day long, then reeling back in like it was nothing. The Honda is another story unto itself though.

Thanks for posting some info on the Busa stuff. My dad and I want to find an original mini and throw a Busa motor in the mix.

BMW M1, M6, 3.0CSL, and 8 series Ford Escort Cosworth and Focus RS Volvo S60R, P1800 and P1800ES Audi Quattro (Sport?) and twin turbo V6 S4 Chevy Vega Cosworth and C4 ZR1 Vette Buick Grand National Eagle Talon TSi Dodge Shadow (?) and Stealth That's all I can come up with for now

$25 gift card to Kragen's for some car care goodies $30 in gift cards to Borders so I can buy some good automotive books A ton of Reese's candy from my cousins Mechanics coveralls (really nice ones) A little bit of money Small mechanics tool set to take with me in my cars and... Ground control coil-overs and Koni shocks for my Honda. Woot!!!

People are really bad this time of the year. I'm sorry to hear that your Vette got hit. That blows big time. Speaking of people who shouldn't be driving, I watched some stupid lady cross over three lanes of traffic (very heavy traffic), then have the nerve to honk at someone, who was stopped at a stop sign to let a bicyclist pass. I wish I had the ability to remove licenses from some people. There would be a lot fewer non-drivers on the road.

Doesn't the amperage draw depend on how efficient those DC motors are? Under the FAQ section for the site, they actually give a calculation for how fast the batteries should recharge, given the amperage rating of your alternator. At first, when I read, I thought it said one to three secs for a full recharge. It was actually one to three minutes. I'm not sure why I thought of it in seconds, or why I didn't wonder how it was so quick. So...what we really need to see from the company is: 1. Flow charts 2. Dyno charts (they're available already on the site) 3. Amp pull of the DC motors Anything else? Oh...I know they use the little 13lb Hawker batteries for their system. Three of them if I remember correctly.

I definitely understand compressor efficiency (said so in my previous post ). I'm not sure about the batteries. I thought I recalled reading on the site that they recharge very, very quickly. My idea is to get the supercharger going (supposedly full boost in less then half a second) to add some much needed torque to a small displacement engine, then roll off as the turbo kicks in. Same idea as using nitrous, but you don't have to worry about filling the bottle.

Are you applying the wax in circles or in straight lines with the contours of the body? I've never had any of my microfiber towells lint unless they were sitting with terry cloth towells. They tend to pick up almost anything and everything. Do you have a digital camera that you could take some pictures with to show us? That might help.

The thing is rated for 20 psi of boost, so 5.5Psi is only getting started (assuming the compressor's effciency doesn't drop off dramatically after 5.5 psi). I'm pretty sure there is some type of bypass assembly, but one could always be fabricated without too much effort, because I would have it roll off as the turbo was working its way to full boost. The thing about using batteries is that they are almost instantly rechargable. In any street or drag situation where you need power before boost, then the electric system is ready to go. Then, for your next pass down the strip or on the highway, the system is fully recharged and ready to blast.

We use this stuff called Carnuba Plus. It's made by a company named Production I think. They sell a clay bar, wax (silicon based instead of teflon - I think), and their anti-static show room conditioner. It works wonders on the Cobra. I usually apply with an applicator pad or terry cloth towell in straight lines. Do not swirl on, as the swirl marks become indefinitely more visible. After a 1-4 min, I take a microfiber towell and remove the excess wax. I have no marks and the car looks pretty darn good. A good clay bar'ing really helps to remove any contamination stuck in the paint (but I'm not sure if it will work well with your paint). Lastly, Production's anti-static show room conditioner helps to get rid of all that lint. It won't want to stick on the car any more. The best results I ever had have come with the Crystal Guard stuff. Works really well. Here's a link to some info on Production's Car Care products: http://www.nvo.com/prodcarcare/thedreamteam/

Well...I have some stuff on 8mm that I need to just convert to digital, but I don't have anywhere or anyone to host it. I may have some music vids that I've been working on, including my Honda build up. Last night I recorded a little of the cat-back install on the Cobra, including a short clip without any exhaust. Just some 1/4 mile vids with SSS510's awesome sprayed 510. EDIT: I have like 5 or 6 rally course segments. Like 10 min overviews to music. I think there may be 5 to 10 Top Gear and 5th Gear reviews on my hard drive too.

Are you going to keep it mainly track and review vids?

Get yourself a microfiber towell to wipe the excess wax off. About what temp was the car when you waxed it, and how long did you let the wax sit before you wiped it off? Or, try this: http://www.crystalguard.com Its a glass bead hard coat that goes on really easy.

Pretty much slim to none, but I like to think so Sounds like a fun road trip to me...maybe one to go look at some out of state colleges to transfer to from the JC I'm at If only it was my dad's car That may be a road trip for my little Honda though, if I can ever get the damn motor in (rear motor mount is being a huge PITA). I'd love to see your Vette, the Z, Pete's Z, and a bunch of other east coast Z's. Who knows...maybe hell will freeze over and I'll get to take it

I looked into this a while back when I was first getting into the Z's. Biggest problem I found was that the oil pan sump sits right where the front crossmember is. You could go dry sump or turn it around and it should work. You also want to get the bigger 6's (externally) out of the 5 series if you're going to get them out of the 80's models. They are stouter and will hold up better to power adders. There is a company that rebuilds older motors and has a 3.5L with a performance rebuild option that makes roughly 15% more power than stock. So, maybe 10 to 20 above 200HP. Be carefull with the older motors though, because they can be prone to head warpage. That's what happened to my dad's old 528i. I would think an older 3.5L with a good turbo would be pretty potent.

Just got a few things in for the Cobra this week. A nice polished Accufab throttle body and a 2.5" Magnaflow cat-back with polished 3.5" tips. Now we can finally take advantage of the shorties that were installed when the driver's side head was replaced. I think my dad is getting scared that my little Honda may be faster (That's if I ever get that friggin' motor to go in). If anyone has some webspace, I can get some vids of the exhaust note and some good freeway on ramp runs.

I really like the color of that car. Very nice!!! Speaking of Vettes, I saw another one like yours today, except it had black deep set wheels with a polished lip. Also very nice. When do I get to bring the Cobra out there for a race?

The wiring part of the swap would have been much, much easier, but I have a STD with dual point injection. I actually went through the wiring a little more and too many connectors are different between the CRX Si and the Civic STD. The Civic is a 91, while the CRX is an 89, which probably explains at least a few of the differences. It may also be contributed too the fact that the CRX is a little more different than its longer wheel base brother. I need to do a little more digging, because the CRX has all the provisions for the boost controller (Apex-i AVC-R, the turbo timer,and a few other things). We ran into a little trouble last night/this morning with the motor mounts. The rear HCP mount is being a royal PITA. I'm going to take a crack at it later today after I've had a little sleep. Unfortunately, I don' t have access to the lifts and air tools that we were using at my friend's dad's Volvo shop. That sure did make quick work of a lot of other things. I'm going to download some of the pictures in a little while, so you can get a feel for where we are at. I'm not only doing the motor, but Wilwood front brakes, new brake MC, rear disc swap, relocate battery to trunk, and redo/rewire my whole stereo with custom kick panels and sub boxes. I appreciate the interest from you guys. I wasn't sure if this sort of thing would fly with anyone on this board. The sooner I get this one done, the sooner I can get to doing all the work that needs to be done to my 240. Its going to be so nice to have two turbo cars. GOT BOOST?

Well..for anyone that's interested, here's a little update. 1st) Don't ever attempt to take a whole wiring harness out of a Honda. I have too, because of the situation with the CRX and my Civic. Its soooo much easier to just modify your own. We did make some progress. The whole turbo motor is ready to come out, along with the entire main wiring harness. Also replaced a few gaskets and other minor things to make sure I won't have any problems (and I wonder why I keep digging myself deeper into debt over this project ) I'm hoping to have the motor in Sunday night and have the car running within the next few days. I have to do some modifications to get the intercooler mounted properly and get the wiring I ripped out to look clean. Coming closer and closer to a boosted car. I can't wait.

The power is in the head Also, 12PSI on one turbo charger can flow a very different amount of air on a different sized hair dryer. I still don't know for sure, because its all heresay. All I know is the guy had the money to do it right, and knew how (and more importantly who) to do it.

You guys should check out the other two Civics on that site. The blue monster on there is just plain awesome. It ripped a really high HP Supra a new butthole.

I can't remember if I started that thread a little while back or not. I remember there were some links to some more info on other forums I visit. I'll see what I can dig up. Someone was saying that the technology was being used in industrial trucks. I think it was Mack trucks or one of those brands that was using them. Good luck with the paper

Its right around 350 on pump gas. If I bump up the octane a few points, and bump up the boost, I should be sitting right at 400HP. Torque will be a problem, but the boost comes on really low and keeps going all the way to redline. I'm going to see if I can dig the dyno chart of it at 10PSI before it was tuned. I have a new front crossmember (lightweight chromoly) with some good radius arms (adjustable for pre-load too ) which dramatically increase traction in a drag type situation. Unfortunately its heresay until I get the thing in the car and on a dyno. I don't know if it will be of any interest to you, but I can post a list of stuff that has been done to the motor and suspension. Lots of pics and a few videos should be here on Sunday, I hope.

This is not truly Datsun related, so I thought I might try the Non Tech Board to post it. I don't know if some of you have read a few posts of mine pertaining to a particular Honda I own (yeah, rice to the core!!! ), but I mentioned some things about a new motor. Originally, I had planned on putting a simple little B16A1 for a little more get up and go (160HP 1.6L VTEC from Japan). I have 70HP in there now, and the thing is a PITA to drive on the freeway, not to mention my gas milage was starting to suffer from over abuse (trying to get on the freeway is like a race for my life). Well...when I went over to a guys house in my area to buy a few turbo items for my datsun - intercooler, BOV, and exhaust for the Honda - I found he had a fully built B16 sitting in his garage. It wasn't just any old 1.6L Honda though. Its got a wonderful Greddy turbo kit mated up to it. I started to look more and more into what he had sitting there and boy, was I amazed. The thing has all the extras, including awesome boost controller, big intercooler, Samco hoses, ported head, built bottom end, MSD SCI ignition...the list goes on and on. He cut me a hell of a deal (and thanks to a little loan from pops, until I could get one from the bank, I was able to get it), so I decided I'd take all the running gear, including a freshly rebuilt tranny with Quafie differential installed. Originally we were going to pull the motor and bring it over to my house, so he could sell the shell. I guess he was in a giving mood and didn't want to bother with a stripped out car on skinnies, so he gave me that too. Now I have this awesome motor (and some Wilwood brakes he threw in), and a shell to build my sister a car. I got a little carried away with what I was typing - didn't mean to write so much - so I better get to the point. My friend and I are taking the cars over to his dad's shop this weekend and are going to do the transplant. It's going to be fun to have more than 5 times the power the car orginally had There will be lots of pictures and maybe even a vid (just got a digital camcorder) for those of you that are interested. My new license plate: VetEATR Its definitely an understatement to say that I'm excited. With the motor swapped, I'll have the easy hybrid pretty well done. Then I can finally move onto getting that poor 240Z all straightened out and in good working order, and give it boost like it has always wanted. Looks like I need to go to a Ricers Anonymous meeting now.