Hypertek

Anyone got a pair they want to get rid of? Shipped to 92570 THanks

With the way they installed the 240sx camber plates, they probably didnt even need to weld anything on the towers.. Credit to the owner of this picture, i forget who that was. These where proper bolt in camber plates, but i suspect something similar could have been done with the s13 plates, chop them to size, redrill new mounting holes, than cut area on the z towers.. at least this way it could be alot easier for those with less welding skills.

Got a question for you guys, been trying to get my 260 started that i just picked up. I determined the engine isn't seized.. which is good. Had put some atf in the cylinders, left that in for a day and was able to turn the engine over via crankshaft. Took off the valve cover and pour some motor oil over everything. So i got that all buttoned back up. Bought a new starter since they are cheap. Cleaned up the terminals, did the maxifuse upgrade (chassis now gets power). Cleaned fuse box, installed all new fuses. Now I don't have a battery yet, but i was under the impression that i should still be able to crank and fire up the car with just jumper cables to another vehicle.. am I wrong to assume that? Car would hardly crank (but won't crank over) with jumpers from a running car. I guess jumping with no battery won't provide enough cranking amps? Might be another week or so til I can afford a battery, but in the mean time I been trying to take care of cheaper things with the car. Was looking forward to firing up the engine, so than id be able to move onto taking care of the cooling system (flushing, get a new thermostat, replace hoses etc)

So i know people have been able to do pretty amazing jobs repairing their dashboards. Is there was a similar way to do a cracked center console? Here is my damaged area, got the car like this. I know getting a new placement would be the way to go, but if i could repair it for a few bucks, that would be awesome to hold me over until than (more money for other goodies).

looks good condition wise. im just not a fan of american styling on a jdm fairlady. She deserves her homeland looks!! lol https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1502287_10151935401898557_1805352018_o.jpg

you could also just push your bumpers in. That is what i plan to do to my early 260

I want to say TBO, good luck, i believe they are a long gone JDM company

pretty rare car.. What are they asking for it? Does it have fender mirrors? was the tail lights changed over to red/red? Was side markers cut into the quarter panels?

I think this walmart box will be good for now. At this point, anything is better than 40 year old wiring. This is where I am at. I stripped back the wiring to expose the area. I removed the white wire that leads to the starter positive, so what is left of the white wire (pictured all the way to the right) which from what i understand goes to the shunt. I will connect that to the fuse box. Now My confusion is on the white/red wires that went to the fusible link. I clipped them both from the bad fusible link box, but which one do I remove in order to fuse up the other wire to the 8 gauge positive I will be adding? Let me know, Thanks! I suppose it is similar to these instructions for the 77 280z, but doing a google search I can't find much info on doing it to a early 74 260.. I been looking at the FSM but from what i see in the fsm, doesnt really look like what I got imo.

Probably because most cars on the road today are going towards 17 and up.. New cars are like 19s 20s stock now!!

I picked up the 2 fuse block at walmart, got some 8awg wire scraps that I will be using for the job. Now I was cleaning my fuse box (dont mind the wet picture). The fuse side looks great, but the back side has me wondering.. Is the black wire suppose to look like that? Looks like someone soldered it on, but than again it could be factory. Also there are 2 clipped wires, I didnt see any hanging wires around the dash. What do you guys think? I assume one is Park Tail and Air Con .

The fusible link block was in pretty bad shape.. I pulled the green fusible link off, and it broke the terminal. But the underneath side where the wires lead out look pretty weak. So i will replace it with a 2 fuse block. My understanding is to add a power cable from the battery to the aftermarket fuse box, than connect the white wire from the shunt to one fuse, and the white/red wire from the shunt to the other fuse. and I can than remove the white wire from the starter. Now where does that white/red wire come from?

no, his are legit authentic watanabes

The 74 260z I picked up recently, would show no signs of power when i would hook up a battery to it. I went and cleaned out the grounds, positive contacts, and what not, wirebrushed the contacts and applied dielectric grease. installed new battery terminals. Now fusible links is a new thing to me, as my prior vehicle experience never had them. Which I just now looked at, which could be the culprit. The 2 black looking aftermarket wires from the box lead to nothing.. while the 2 white wires from the harness are not connected to anything. My understanding is those 2 wires go to the box, with the fusible link connecting them. My plans are to hook those back up. Now is there a way to make a proper fusible link for that? What amperage fuse can I use? thanks

Picked this up this week.. traded my 99 blazer for it. Been sitting for a few years. Its auto but plan to swap it eventually. I need to replace one of the transmission cooler lines. Just having a hard time getting the line off by the front of the engine.

If you guys have facebook, you can ask the man himself. I'm sure he would help https://www.facebook.com/shouji.starroad https://www.facebook.com/starroad.datsun I love the way the homeland mods these cars. The attention to detail and quality parts, without changing the cars looks away from being a Z (as opposed to someone trying to make it look like something it isn't).

lets see those beauties mounted!

I think there would be a small market for g nose covers . just look at the last set that was on ebay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161161382908?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This is like the only hope for G nose guys lol

ok. I am for sure interested, as well as a friend of mine who is not on this forum.

Any luck on gnose rings yet?

you forgot the link or picture...

Something more aggressive

Been a while since I had an S13 . I do recall s14 rear struts /coilovers being longer. Now I am not sure if the typical shock companies use, is the same between s13 and s14. I would contact a few companies to find that out. You will be chopping the coilover bracket to weld anyways, so its a matter of if the additional length from the s14 set works out for you.

Dont they got a picture on the site already? Sure it might not be a side by side. But should give you an idea. BRE and 432 have same profile from my understanding (432 just has area for the badge emblems to mount, and has ridges on the front side.) I would assume with the higher profile of the Victory spoiler, there could be a reduction in top speed /more aero drag (also slight mpg decrease) for the price of added downforce. Just something to consider =) Here is another one to check out http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd2115009/Z.C.C.___ZG_R__CUSTOM_FIBERGLASS_REAR_SPOILER__10_OFF_