madkaw

Google MegaSquirt ignition maps here on Hybridz . There's a thread somewhere that the guys shared their maps. Start out mild with 10-12 initial timing and make towards full advance ( 33-38) by 3000 rpm . Then you can start getting more aggressive from that point on. At high vacuum settings for cruise you can add in more timing for economy

New harness is not a bad idea - especially if there not labeled, plus the longer runs. Read and read and read . Lot of good articles written by MS /DIY TUNE, about systems and how they work together . Got to know your own cars wiring also so you implement the MS in the proper places

Chickenman might be referring to me. I asked what fuel filter you were running because I had a similar mysterious issue that plagued me and it turned out to be a faulty filter . Specifically glass type Mr Gasket

What type fuel filter?

I run 14mm high impedance with the n42 intake- no drilling required, but pintles do need changing .

Yes you have to use the T5 shaft and shorten it by an inch or so. Or have DS made . You ALSO have to have the diff flange from the turbo drivetrain . It's a dedicated DS , so everything has to match . The shifter will also be in a different spot in the console . Lots of info out there

Your R&D skills are something to be envious of. We haven't had a thread this juicy since Monster's turbo intake!

I plan to build my intake with injectors at the flange( as close as I can) . I thought it might be a good choice of intake for a stroker build with 35mm runners . Your not going to find that on any stock FI intake, I believe it will clear the hood also . It sure would be a pretty piece if someone wanted to buff it out. Built in mount for BOV

New Zed, Your saying the runners you measured weren't longer that a stock gasoline.? I measured almost 13" runner length on the diesel intake- way longer than any gas intake.

If you look at the top of the runners at the flange you can see OEM marks for injector holes! ? That's what I'm going to do. It's tight but it would be better IMHO. How many of these intakes do you have to mass produce?

I think I have been talked out of a cam sensor for my motor:) One less sensor to worry about. I think I read early in my FI adventure that performance gains are minimal with full sequential . I'm wired for it if I want to though.

I was trying to link the MS3 tuner studio explanation of sequence settings

Sorry, I thought the link was more direct thus not needing any explanation

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Megasquirt3_TunerStudio_MS_Lite_Reference-1.4.pdf/Megasquirt3_TunerStudio_MS_Lite_Reference-1.4.html

I believe we have the same ones. Just think about 35lb on a basically a 1/4" allen head. I'd go tight and safety wire. I also think the original bolts were hex head that could handle more torque at the head. Some of them will take the 35lbs, but they are on the ragged edge of stripping the head of the bolt

Latest pic of my progress. I believe I have the engine bay plumbed-but not tested. Fuel tank and pump is still getting sorted out. Swageloks are pretty cool and seemed to work as intended-again-waiting on pressure check. I REALLY hope I'm done under the car with running fuel lines-BUT- I still need to consider fuel venting. Don't really want to run a charcoal canister, but also don't want to just vent uncontrolled. Don't want my garage smelling like gas. I was actually thinking of using the original emissions valve that connected to the air filter on the early models. Let the pressure in the tank decide when to vent and let it vent to the intake track before the TB. Any thoughts?

Maybe you should look at my MS3X install thread. Covers a lot of your requirements. I am currently converting to FI, but I have started with ignition. There's a lot involved to changing from carb to FI, but I am in the process now. I started another thread showing the transition. Maybe you can get some ideas. I am trying to lay the ground work for programmable FI by starting off with a stock FI intake , then get educated enough to program ITB's . It's a steep learning curve-put your climbing shoes on

Sorry guys-I'm tapping out for now -bad timing for me.

Good luck trying to get 35lbs on those allen heads. I stripped one out trying and contacted futofab. Apparently the instructions weren't updated with the hardware update. 35lbs on a 1/4' bolt is high by any standard . I can't remember what we agreed on , but I'm almost positive it wasn't that high

I might just do away with the hard line all together on the FPR side and the fuel filter side will have the rubber line in the correct place

How are you liking those OERs ? You have a thread on that install?

I think it's enough, but might reconsider where it's placed. I might use rubber from rail to hardline so rubber has more side give. Right. Is movemant would be inline with the rubber line, so maybe it would be better to be perpendicular ? Either way I will have rubber connections from engine to chassis .

I've thought of going the same route , but I run dual pipes. Pros: redundancy - sensors do go bad , this would be a back up. Troubleshooting - one more tool Tuning- what if you want to run 5&6 a bit richer based on detonation issues - separate sensors would help verify More gauges in the cockpit to impress friends !! Cons - more money and more wiring

Got my pump installed into my tank - waiting on my sending unit. Everything is just sitting in there finishing mock up. Had to see how things lined up before cutting more holes in my floor. Just got my Swagelocks so they aren't installed . Used plan old copper compression fittings to mock up stuff and figure final sizing on hard lines with fuel filter. I think I am going to reinstall vent hard line under car to enable to run a proper purge vent system .

Trying to science out my fuel vent system . I do think I want to run a charcoal canister with purge valve. Weather permits my car gets driven a lot and I want it to vent properly with no fumes . Since I am in the conversion process to FI I might as well get this done . Lots of things to consider as far as location , type ( rear , front mounted ) , powered by what circuit in MS , purge valve . Lots of opinions on proper time to purge based on engine vacuum . Some purge based on engine temp and purge during warm up and shut off during warm running . I guess doesn't need constant purging. I guess I should plan on trying to reinstall OEM hard line to connect tank to whatever process I try. Take any suggestions