madkaw

So 25% higher means richer ? Appreciate all the feedback - it's slowly sinking in- I think LOL I get required fuel is a straight equation based on injector size to engine displacement - you've got to start somewhere .

Thanks for the reply - still digesting everything . I do have a wideband so I will incorporate .

Well all I've read on MS on the forums everyone seems to say fuel is easier to set up, but I'm having issues getting my skull wrapped around how all the tables are used in conjunction with each other. Incorporating AFR , VE , AE, etc... Anyone want to try and dummy this up for me? I guess when I read this I get a little confused: If you set “Incorporate AFR Target” under the General Settings menu to “include AFRtarget,” this table is used to scale the fueling. A table entry of 14.7:1 will mean no fuel scaling. Numbers less than that will increase the fuel, and numbers higher will decrease the fuel. When using this mode, you’ll tune your VE table to hit your AFR targets, then adjusting the AFR target table will directly adjust the fuel to the desired AFR number. I guess my thinking of incorporating target means that MS will automatically tune pulses to match the numbers I wished for. It goes on to say to utilize VE table to achieve targets?

Cross firing under the dizzy cap. Cracked cap , worn cap . With that kind of performance engine you need everything working at 100%

Re reading your post I would suspect ignition. You would need everything right for that motor . Plug wires , cap, rotor , coil ( I know it's new , but suspect for sure)

So it's just a sound or do you feel anything ?

This is why I paid the money for the latest and greatest 3.57 FULLY ASSEMBLED board . I didn't want to be chasing my tail over a bad solder. Not sure how you can fix issues with a cold engine , that should be #1 priority . I'd also say that these types of problems can steer people away from MS though it might not have much to do with MS except that it was applied wrong . Cudos to you Richard for taking so much time to help like this .

Put your IAT in that hole

Hey - when people go low- I go high!! Choices are endless and cheap

I think some testing without and with this mod for direct comparison would be prove the effectiveness before selling it as a cure . Should be easy enough to do at this point

So damn close and no time to finish - ARGH

I was hoping to see a more direct comparison . I plan on doing this on my mn47 head .

Might as well do both ignition and fuel . It's a steep learning curve but it will click if you keep reading. There's lots of reading on this site under the MS section. . Some shy away from ignition but I did it first. Getting ready to do fuel myself. You need to get a direction of where your heading and then come up with specific questions

When you say this mod has been effective - are you saying that you couldn't run this much boost or timing before this mod ?

On the subject of venting tank. The original system of the flow valve on the inner fender seemed to work well enough. I was actually thinking of running a (new ) vent line from the tank to the same old valve and connecting it the same way. I'm going to run a CAI so there will be plenty of places to plug a line in. On the subject of fueling: Getting really close to starting up as a FI motor. I cleaned up the intake real well after grinding out the "bumps" in the runners left by the casting . I also need to science out my PCV system . After seeing all the oil inside this N42 intake and my experience using a catch can- I think it's warranted to put the catch cam in the PCV run. As I get closer to getting the final pieces together I realize I still have more to do. This is now the time to change over my thermostat housing to accomadate the GM sensor. I have a 81 housing that has 5 holes ! I only need two right now, but I'll have options . For now I will run the stock sensor for my stock gauge and the MS sensor will be right beside it. I will plug the other holes .

Might want to read up on the whole p79 shave/swap - I think your skipping some steps or leaving out some stuff. I think you need to shim for that .080

It's about the same work, but your not taking .080 off the head so no chain issue . You have to swap out all valves on the 79 if you take .080 out, but the MN would just be intake seats and valves .

I'd take it but I have too many now. Let me know if there's anything I could possibly trade for it:)

There easier to find than you think. Just look at sites selling used car parts . There's old Maxima's engines laying around. Usually cheaper than sourcing a z head .

My approach will be a MN47 head on a 54 block. At 39cc stock, no shaving required. You could put larger seats on the intake and run your 47 valves - done . It might have too much pop and need MS to keep it under control. Just another option

Looks like you picked one already that should be pretty good for your goals.

Sounds like a good plan. Build your 31 head and don't be shy about the cam, it will still drive good and idle fine with that cam. I'd shave down the head to about 39cc or less if you get 91 octane . And yes to bigger valves - intake and exhaust .

I didn't want to mess with resistors - pulse width , ect... Just hook up injectors and done. Change out pintles so you can use 14mm and you can pick from countless domestics for cheap

I hope Zedd Findings rear valence panel is better than the one that MSA used to sell. I would personally think about splicing in a new cutout before replacing complete panel . The deal with the panel I got was it wasn't formed quite right and it was like 16 gauge metal- terrible to try and form. That rear panel is actually a compound curve . I'd try and find a donor

Get some high impedance Boschs off of any domestic or get some new ones. I ordered new Boschs for about 39$ each or something around that cost . I got 270cc I believe