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Everything posted by madkaw
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240z with L26 - ITBs, EFI, megasquirt
madkaw replied to nmehdikh's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
The N42 is very similar to the late model e88 that’s supposed to be on there . Advantage is that the n42 has the bigger l28 valves and steel seats , so good to go there. I’d call around to machine shops and find one familiar with Datsun heads . You might only need a valve job and maybe a skim cut on the mating surface- which most shops should be able to do . -
240z with L26 - ITBs, EFI, megasquirt
madkaw replied to nmehdikh's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
CALIFORNIA DATSUN😱 -
Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.
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So you do have a MS ECU ? There are other options for ignition .
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You could PM Chickenman and hire him to help you thru this process of figuring out all this . He has helped me out and is familiar with MS. Hussein (Softopz) is also really good with this stuff if he hires himself also. Chickenman(Richard) is really good with software and Softopz puts these kits together !!
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My buddy has one - I’ll let him know your looking
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Yes , the Maxima head has the bigger 35mm exhaust valve , so probably need to notch bore slightly. Just throw whatever Felpro calls for for that year - CR shouldn’t be an issue . If you could afford to throw the bigger 44mm intake valves in then I would do that also. I just suggested this head because it is notched for injectors and you can bolt any stock EFI intake to it . Besides the fact it has the ideal chamber . I’m running Audi 1.8 26lb injectors myself
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As much as I’d like to do ITB’s - I chickened out and went with a stock intake . Why? Because I have/had so much to learn about tuning and I didny want it to be overwhelming and not enjoy my ride . that being said - maybe you should find a stock intake and I would recommend a Maxima head . Everything just bolts together and you can concentrate on learning to tune with MS instead of fighting an ITB set up
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Take advantage of the Chickenmans wisdom- he knows his stuff. Worth every penny!
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Got 315's to fit my set up
madkaw replied to Nv_s30's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
What’s the offsets ? -
What engine / year? Update your signature. Not that uncommon in an early head that has sat too long bronze seats , gummed up guides . My 71 did that also. The valve sticks and the lash pads turn on the retainer and get kicked off. Not real fix but you could try some Marvel Mystery oil in the oil and gas . I would fill my car up at the airport( years ago) with 100LL and seemed to help. Sorry - just saw that you put that it was a L28 , so disregard the early head stuff , but still might be a gummy issue
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I'd run what you have handy and learn your way around with the MS2. There are so many combos out there it's hard to compare any of them. Guys tweak the stock ECU engines and get decent numbers, but tuning should be your friend as well as a good intercooler and turbo.
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- turbo
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yeah-but your engine only puts out low 700 HP-so....
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Looks pretty ! sounds like a good combo
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That AAR switch is looking better all the time . Took another stab at my IAC and learned a little more , but still not getting it. I think we need a session Richard. pretty sure it’s all settings in my firmware , but not getting settings right. Not enough idle at first start - though it does stay running and idle is steady(1100rpm) . Idle will pick up slightly as it warms , but that might be enrichment backing off a tad . Fully warm the IAC doesn’t close all the way so idle stays high(1200-1300). If I go into test mode (while running)and test homing position( set to close) , idle drops to exactly where I want it (850), and where engine normally idles at without IAC connected. So the valve is capable of closing , but doesn’t do that all the way when warm . If I stop test mode the IAC steps up 20 steps and the idle increases . I tried to ‘0’ out last step in warm up , but it didn’t seem to want to take it and always went plugged in 20? So all this babbling is just saying that I cannnoy get my settings right , but the hardware should be getting me there.
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My '72 240z project -- Rotisserie Restomod
madkaw replied to jkelly's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Nice work- 76 replies
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- restoration
- metal fabrication
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5 options- rebuild stock damper and use your flywheel to trigger . More labor , less cost . Hall gear tooth sensor -35$ Drill press , welder .
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Probably should state stuff like bore size, cam, etc...
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I think I have one sitting on a 82 intake behind my GARAGE
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yes it is-but I had/have so many other issues I didn't know if switching directions was helping me. I think I have a plan now. Just need to get off the RR and implement ! Wish I was retired like the Chickenman!
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Actually- I am still set up closed. From a DIY article https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/stepper-iac/ First, make sure that the idle control is set to “Stepper Valve”, not PWM or on/off idle control. For initial testing, we recommend using open loop instead of closed loop. Closed loop requires more complicated settings and has more that can potentially go wrong. The time step size is how long the stepper driver will command an individual step. If the valve is perfectly dialed in, this will match the time it takes the coil move the motor through a single step. If this value is too low, the step is not completed, and the valve does not move. If the step is too high, the valve will move more slowly than it can – but otherwise there aren’t any consequences. Your best bet is to set this for 10 ms, then decrease until the valve no longer moves. Then add 0.5 to 1.0 ms. 4 wire valves that turn freely usually need to use “Always On” mode. Valves that are difficult to spin by hand usually need to use “Moving Only” mode; the same goes for all 5 or 6 wire valves. The homing steps (called “start value” in older code versions) needs to be set to a large enough value that the valve retracts fully from any position the valve can reach during operation. The current MS3 and MS2/Extra code allow you to specify if the valve closes or opens on startup. Regardless of which position it is set for, you need to set the number of homing steps high enough that it will move all the way to this position no matter where it starts I guess I need to change this in my tune. I believe 'turn freely' explains or describes my stepper
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Thanks Richard for your input as always . MS recommended using open loop so that’s why I chose it -thinking it would be easier . Ill try some of your settings when I get back into town .
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Made this video to help explain my dilemma .
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You know your going to be told to do some searching . So you want someone to write out a complete recipe for 300 Hp using what engine , head , engine management , induction , ignition?????