madkaw

This is why I don’t like MSA . POS product that doesn’t fit and they keep selling it. It was not machined properly PERIOD . Sent one back for the same reason - too small. There isn’t variances in tolerances on our engines - it’s just a bad product

Have you not checked the MS web site ?

It isn’t easy to do ( degree a cam) for most though. Maybe that small bit of advance built into the cam is for that crowd that doesn’t . I’d almost advise against trying if you don’t feel confident about the process. If somehow the user retarded the cam drastically , they could smack valves . On the other hand , if you use the stock sprocket and set it up just like stock , it’s unlikely you will have any issues or be far enough off to negatively affect HP by that much. I have been considering a whole tooth on my build , but it starts getting pretty hairy then😳

Might have left some HP off the chart. Timing is important especially comparing apples to apples . That’s all part of tuning !

Curious of what kind of ignition timing to we’re running ?

Not a simple answer to that. I had this motor apart a couple of times and shaved more off head each time but did NOT degree every time . I also changed induction systems from triples to single TB, so I’ve done some experimenting with valve timing . Advancement was to bring power band lower . i did advance to get numbers close the first time I degree’d the cam

If you set it up properly - it should be close enough. My head had been shaved considerably, so I winded up advancing the cam 8 degrees . Normally folks don’t get the exact numbers that are on the card because of factors like rocker arm ratio, etc..

Of course My Isky cam came with the wrong degree numbers and I couldn’t get it “dialed in”, so I would have been better off just setting it straight up -lol

Well- you can , but might be other factors. How much was shaved off the head? How old is your timing chain? I guess it all matters how Accurate you want to be.

I want thank Hussein ( Softopz) for all his help and good service in ordering his harness and MS ECU. He managed to a rush order for me and was able to cater to my set up . From someone who has already done a MS on my car , I know how intimidating the initial wiring can be . I strongly recommend this option offered by Softopz to get you going faster and with less frustration . Having someone that actually works in our cars can get you harness that fits right and works right . I was impressed to find out he does all this while being a family man with kids and works many hours on his job. His support after the sale has also been great and always answers pm’s . I would recommend him for this service . side note: Teaming up with Chickenman ( Richard) makes for a great knowledge base for hardware and software regarding MS .

You might want to check out the FAQ page here and look under L6 engines and find many discussions about the different cylinder heads and how to modify them. The info is here- but you’ll need to do your homework

The N42 is very similar to the late model e88 that’s supposed to be on there . Advantage is that the n42 has the bigger l28 valves and steel seats , so good to go there. I’d call around to machine shops and find one familiar with Datsun heads . You might only need a valve job and maybe a skim cut on the mating surface- which most shops should be able to do .

CALIFORNIA DATSUN😱

Just saying there’s other options to spend money on besides an old zxt dizzy and shaft. I think Hoke performance sells a trigger wheel set up . My thread shows using a Hall gear sensor.

So you do have a MS ECU ? There are other options for ignition .

You could PM Chickenman and hire him to help you thru this process of figuring out all this . He has helped me out and is familiar with MS. Hussein (Softopz) is also really good with this stuff if he hires himself also. Chickenman(Richard) is really good with software and Softopz puts these kits together !!

My buddy has one - I’ll let him know your looking

Yes , the Maxima head has the bigger 35mm exhaust valve , so probably need to notch bore slightly. Just throw whatever Felpro calls for for that year - CR shouldn’t be an issue . If you could afford to throw the bigger 44mm intake valves in then I would do that also. I just suggested this head because it is notched for injectors and you can bolt any stock EFI intake to it . Besides the fact it has the ideal chamber . I’m running Audi 1.8 26lb injectors myself

As much as I’d like to do ITB’s - I chickened out and went with a stock intake . Why? Because I have/had so much to learn about tuning and I didny want it to be overwhelming and not enjoy my ride . that being said - maybe you should find a stock intake and I would recommend a Maxima head . Everything just bolts together and you can concentrate on learning to tune with MS instead of fighting an ITB set up

Take advantage of the Chickenmans wisdom- he knows his stuff. Worth every penny!

What’s the offsets ?

What engine / year? Update your signature. Not that uncommon in an early head that has sat too long bronze seats , gummed up guides . My 71 did that also. The valve sticks and the lash pads turn on the retainer and get kicked off. Not real fix but you could try some Marvel Mystery oil in the oil and gas . I would fill my car up at the airport( years ago) with 100LL and seemed to help. Sorry - just saw that you put that it was a L28 , so disregard the early head stuff , but still might be a gummy issue

I'd run what you have handy and learn your way around with the MS2. There are so many combos out there it's hard to compare any of them. Guys tweak the stock ECU engines and get decent numbers, but tuning should be your friend as well as a good intercooler and turbo.

yeah-but your engine only puts out low 700 HP-so....

86mm pistons not sure what I’m seeing as far as the ‘ring’ around the bore