madkaw

And I have decided to go forged after researching . Dave probably wouldn't have offered me any other option anyways - lol.

Tim, I think I am confusing myself . I believe Dave was comparing the R/S ratio of using L24 rods compared to what he does with the Honda rods. I believe he did not like the R/S ratio of the LD crank with the 133 L24 rods - thus he offset grinds for his desired RS ratio

Kind of why all my future plans with my Z involve refinements . Like my exhaust but needs to be quieter. Love my handling , but going back rubber suspension bits. Got comfy 350z leather seats( power heated),and don't care about weight- just get more HP. AC will be soon and EFI has made things better and not as smelly. Power steering is on the radar too. Maybe time to move on for you. I'm still in love with the look of my Z and hard to find a car as good looking - period. BMW would probably first on the list or Porsche 911 if I moved on

Glad to back on Hybridz ! I have a block on the way to Rebello now and trying to make sure I am clear on my direction for this build. Yes , maybe I should have figured this out already but I have time since Dave is a ways out from working my block. I had a diesel block he wanted so I took advantage of the shipping and sent him my LD crankshaft and a N42 to prep along with the diesel block. I'm looking for displacement number 1. This engine will be going in my DD - a car I drive whenever weather permits , to the store or a long leasurely drive or maybe to the track for some fun. I realize that Dave builds some really big HP motors , and I want HP , but I want longevity and reliability . I am also hoping for versatility also with the short block. For now I am wanting a NA motor , but I know I will want to pressurize at some point. Yes I know Dave is the one to talk to, but trying to educate myself as much as possible so I don't waste his time with dumb questions. I imagine most of his stroker builds are purpose build for high HP first priority , so my intentions might change his recipe. I know he offset grinds the crankshaft because he thinks the homemade stroker ( L24 rods) have an undesireable rod/stroke ratio. I don't know what length rod he uses but I imagine it's longer - don't see any negatives with this no matter what build. Forged pistons is in his recipe also, not sure if there is a street and race choice on this. Reading up on forged pistons I've read of pin offsets that quiet down cold running and help with excessive clearance noises. Forged are necessary for the rpms that his engines make power at compared to our stock cast counterparts. For a street friendly motor would I need forged pistons compared to quality pistons hypereutectic style. I could live with staying under 7k rpm and build the motor with that intention. In my dream world I would like to have a short block that would allow for a small chamber head for fun NA . Later on install a bigger chamber head for pressurized fun. Would forged pistons be required for this or just preferred or not? I guess from what I read it's all about tune and detonation . Detonation will kill either cast or forged pistons. I guess the cast winds up being chatostrophic vs forged that might not take out the whole motor . Guys do very well with cast and turbocharging as proven on this site. Cast would be cheaper , but how much I don't know. Hell, Dave might not even have or offer a cast option . Up for opinions and ideas before I chat with Dave. It will be months before he gets to my project , so I have time . He is a bit behind he said because he lost over a week taking care of his mom that was involved in a serious accident . He didn't have much time to talk but I wanted to get him this diesel block and get it out of my shop. I threw this up on FB , but really don't like that venue - glad to be back on Hybridz

So aren't max torque numbers always at 5300 rpm ?

Look at my thread MS3 install - I was able to hide mine but you might not be able to

Still think you are doing well with a stock cam and that's where it was designed to operate .

Thread gauge would answer some of this pretty quickly. Brackets left loose so you can tighten once in position.

So dyno tune not required with this ECU? I am not saying one is better than the other either, just asking

I believe your wrong on the comparison , but I slept since I bought mine -lol. MS3 comes ready to plug in smart coils , so no opening the box to solder in anything . Also had built in map sensor soldered in. MS3 357 board is machine soldered- less chance of issues. MS3 has larger tables for tuning , etc... I think you are understating things. I still believe you should swap out the head and bump compression and get a much bigger cam if you are going with a programmable ECU. Why spend all the ECU money and not do the single most important thing to these motors by waking them up with a cam. Hell, I could have gone with an even bigger cam than my Isky- this engine is perfect for the street .

So sounds like you have dedicated 1300$ towards EFI- 700$ left for ? You budget might be tight to have a dual purpose machine. No head work- no real power for racing .

Well time to play VALVE timing I guess

No porting - just cleaned up runners around screw bosses EFI kit z car depot 1300$ MS3 with harness - 800$ Fuel rail - 150$ New injectors - 225$ 4 bbl intake -$? Cam regrind and springs $ You need to write it all out and crunch the numbers .

Spending money on a different intake and TB is money you could be spending somewhere else. I'm running a 490/290 cam with my N42 just fine and I bet I get 30 mpg on the highway MPG. You are asking about a car you can drive to the track and back home then its all about tuning and YES-head work .

Okay-so IGNiTION advance

Not sure I agree that the intake is the weak point in the power equation. Also not sure a cam is a waste of time on the intake. As I have posted on my thread that power wise I can not tell the difference between the triple 40's I was running and my N42. Granted I was only running 32 chokes on the 40's, I believe with the proper tuning abilities you can probably get your dual purpose engine. There isn't a lot of guys actually doing hot NA EFI engines on here with aftermarket ECU. Most cases its a turbo version, so not a lot to compare to.

If you read Racer Brown he was all about advancing the intake closing to make the magic happen. I'd like to go a couple more degrees but unsure how now that I've run out of adjustment without actually going a tooth ;-O Kirkster-I guess you meant he kept putting in cam advance? or ?

With a stock cam arent you close to the limits of moving the curve. You could get an adjustable cam sprocket and start retarding the cam timing to see where that takes you.

I'd budget in Megasquirt for sure and do fuel AND ignition . Regrind your cam- go big Find a mn47 head and get bigger seats put in and swap over intake valves from your head. Clean up short side radius and be done with head Pallnet fuel rail and run high impedance injectors Don't touch the bottom end - but you can look at with the head off and say- 'looks good' Clean up that engine compartment Put a header on later if you want noise Gearing makes for fun

Well I don't know that yet. Still dismantling .

Looking for help to identify what I got here. What I do know is: P30 block Pistons measure almost 86mm at skirts 9mm rods E31 head shaved approx .035 - so guessing 39cc chambers , 44&35mm valves Look at the pics and tell me what you see . I will update as I finish tearing it down

I considered the coupler idea also - to get the TB in a reasonable placement for linkage and hood clearance . Fuel rail will be tight. I might just use n47 intake flange and adapt it

Runners are 35mm and TB could be whatever

On the list

https://www.rhdjapan.com/oer-racing-sports-injection-kit-standard-type-45mm-l20-l24-l26-l28.html I'm saving for these