madkaw

Well time to play VALVE timing I guess

No porting - just cleaned up runners around screw bosses EFI kit z car depot 1300$ MS3 with harness - 800$ Fuel rail - 150$ New injectors - 225$ 4 bbl intake -$? Cam regrind and springs $ You need to write it all out and crunch the numbers .

Spending money on a different intake and TB is money you could be spending somewhere else. I'm running a 490/290 cam with my N42 just fine and I bet I get 30 mpg on the highway MPG. You are asking about a car you can drive to the track and back home then its all about tuning and YES-head work .

Okay-so IGNiTION advance

Not sure I agree that the intake is the weak point in the power equation. Also not sure a cam is a waste of time on the intake. As I have posted on my thread that power wise I can not tell the difference between the triple 40's I was running and my N42. Granted I was only running 32 chokes on the 40's, I believe with the proper tuning abilities you can probably get your dual purpose engine. There isn't a lot of guys actually doing hot NA EFI engines on here with aftermarket ECU. Most cases its a turbo version, so not a lot to compare to.

If you read Racer Brown he was all about advancing the intake closing to make the magic happen. I'd like to go a couple more degrees but unsure how now that I've run out of adjustment without actually going a tooth ;-O Kirkster-I guess you meant he kept putting in cam advance? or ?

With a stock cam arent you close to the limits of moving the curve. You could get an adjustable cam sprocket and start retarding the cam timing to see where that takes you.

I'd budget in Megasquirt for sure and do fuel AND ignition . Regrind your cam- go big Find a mn47 head and get bigger seats put in and swap over intake valves from your head. Clean up short side radius and be done with head Pallnet fuel rail and run high impedance injectors Don't touch the bottom end - but you can look at with the head off and say- 'looks good' Clean up that engine compartment Put a header on later if you want noise Gearing makes for fun

Well I don't know that yet. Still dismantling .

Looking for help to identify what I got here. What I do know is: P30 block Pistons measure almost 86mm at skirts 9mm rods E31 head shaved approx .035 - so guessing 39cc chambers , 44&35mm valves Look at the pics and tell me what you see . I will update as I finish tearing it down

I considered the coupler idea also - to get the TB in a reasonable placement for linkage and hood clearance . Fuel rail will be tight. I might just use n47 intake flange and adapt it

Runners are 35mm and TB could be whatever

On the list

https://www.rhdjapan.com/oer-racing-sports-injection-kit-standard-type-45mm-l20-l24-l26-l28.html I'm saving for these

I'll let you know if the nylon experiences meltdown -lol

Went for a drive and when I got home I did a heat check. Though I could keep my hand on the intake very long, I could grab my IAT sensor and it was just warm. So I think the reducer did its job, so now on to a heat shield

Get a custom intake with a bigger plenum and runners !!! Running a n42 now on my little L24, but building a bigger plenum . Can't get very big with N42, not enough meat there

Impressive especially NA with a nearly stock induction. Who says you can't get any power from a N42 intake. You could only get maybe 32mm runner ID?

Only thing I found locally was a nylon reducer . Not sure what it is heat rated at but time will tell. Need to get a heat sheid done now

So after getting some highway miles in I think I will have to deal with heat soak issue now. I had a hard start the other day after a 50 mile trip. I know I have to do certain things for sure. Heat shield- I'm not running one. I have ceramic coated headers which do pretty well , but need to make shield IAT Sensor - GM style sitting on top of intake . I think I will try a plastic adapter first before I try and change position . For some reason when I opened up the hole where the cold start injector was I opened it up all the way to 1/2" NPT. GM sensor is 3/8" NPT , so presently I run a brass adapter. I think I will run a plastic adapter so that the sensor is not touching the intake. I will see how that turns out. Highway AFRs were spot on 15 and the engine hummed along beautifully . MPG seems pretty good and hope to have solid numbers after a long trip.

I just went for the TPS that had only one connector. Why would you want two , you only need one

Well sometimes you just wing it, but advancing the cam woke this engine up -earlier- . Now at 9 degrees advance I probably made up for chain slack , head shave . Yes it's a butt dyno, but with the cam retarded I couldn't chirp the tires thru the gears , but now I can - just like I did with the triples . I did notice that my AFRs went lean after the cam adjustment, so that is a good thing. Added more fuel (point and click) and power with higher VEs . So though there is a bit of difference between triples and this plenum , it is negligible by the butt dyno. I know - put it on the dyno- I'm close

That would be the easiest way if it worked. I'd have to see the lines side by side to see if they would line up. SS would be a bitch to tweak if you have to

Trucks are out even with roomy crew cabs and camper shells? Of course you would want a newer version direct injection for mpg and just better built and that will bust the budget. Loving my Colorado crew cab and fold down seats make for many options . My buddy who works on and drives a M3 said to stay away from BMW - trans stuff gets very pricey.

240sx